Repairing DR Tow Behind Brush Mower - New Clutch, Idler Pulley & Belt

Подписаться 338

Просмотров 4,2 тыс.

50% 1

In this video I cover replacing the clutch, idler pulley and belt on a 48" wide tow-behind DR Field & Brush Cutter. The old clutch started being hit or miss on bringing the blades up to proper speed, and was also making a screeching noise on engagement.
Upon further investigation, the idler pulley had seen better days (excessive play in the bearing). I also replaced the belt for good measure while replacing the other components.
Thank you for watching, and I hope this was helpful. Please like & subscribe to help my channel grow!

Опубликовано:

8 сен 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 16

@scottstewart9154 4 месяца назад

Can you reply with why you felt clutch needed replacing? was it engaging but not turning blades fast. My mower not cutting grass well and I notice when I engage the clutch There doesn't seem to be as big of load on the engine as there use to be. other than that excellent video very helpful

@md9897 3 месяца назад

Hey, good morning! My clutch starting making a pretty awful metallic "screetch" noise and just like you said, wouldn't bring the blades up to speed. Trying to cut any amount of grass, much less brush, and it'd just stop spinning. Double check that your belt hasn't come off your idler pulley too. After my clutch replacement, I guess I didn't get my idler pulley bolt torqued properly, it came loose, allowed the belt to slip, and I'd only hear the clutch solenoid clicking on/off but no change in blade speed. Some Loctite solved the idler pulley being loose.

@scottstewart9154 3 месяца назад

@@md9897 Thanks so much I finally realized that the Idler Arm was sticking so it wouldn't put pressure on the belt which resulted in spinning but not cutting grass, I ordered a new bushing for the belt arm but in the meantime, I hit it with some WD40. Thanks for the tip on Locktite when I replace the bushing I'll put a new pulley on and put some Locktite on it.

@hornerhillfarm4017 2 года назад

Very professionally done. Great improvisation, getting the new clutch connector through the factory hole. I would have used bullet connectors too. One thing - I would love to have seen the cutter perform after the repair. Curious how many hours were on the unit when it required repair. I have the old TB1 pull behind - still works but parts are getting scarce and expensive.

@md9897 2 года назад

Thank you for the comment! I’d estimate a few hundred hours accumulated before the repair was needed...we used it a fair amount on my grandfather’s farm before he passed last year. As for video of it in action, check out my video I uploaded just after this repair video. We used it to clear brush on a powerline that we will turn into a deer food plot later this year. The new clutch definitely improves its performance...just judging by ear, the blade tip speed it much higher, so the old clutch must have been slipping for a while

@layneshinpaugh8653 3 месяца назад

where did you get that fuel tank?

@md9897 3 месяца назад

Amazon

@globofix 25 дней назад

Hi Great content ! do you have a link for the replacement clutch used? Cheers

@md9897 25 дней назад

Sure thing, here you go. Says unavailable on Amazon but look up part number online. DR Power also sells replacements: a.co/d/do9OoUW

@jackfolmar9085 2 года назад

Great video. Hope you can help. Have the same model. Is the bushing (that the bolt goes through) in the idler pull arm supposed to move independently from the arm itself? The reason I ask is when I bolt the idler arm in, it is very hard to move back and forth which to me defeats the purpose . Thank you !

@md9897 2 года назад

Mine was the same as you describe, it wouldn't move as freely as I thought by hand without the spring (would move but wouldnt "flop around"), but with the spring in place it seems ok. A good coating of grease and anti-seize helped mine. Apologies for the late reply, and thank you for the comment.

@user-wh2bw8zk5x Год назад

Need help with wiring going to the solenoid and ground from battery and ignition. Color of wire to what post.

@kcf6969 2 года назад

i cant get the clutch to stop spinning to remove the bolt. How did you get the clutch locked?

@md9897 2 года назад

Hey good evening! You will need to put a socket on the flywheeel bolt up on top of the engine. If you take a look around the 7 minute mark of my video, I had to put a socket on the flywheel bolt to tighten the clutch pulley. Same applies for you to loosen the clutch bolt. Because my clutch was frozen, I was just able to hit it with an impact gun upon removal. You'll get it for sure if you react the torque on the flywheel bolt. Might want a helping hand to make it easier.

@slybrownfox Год назад

Do you by chance have a part number for the tension spring attached to the pulley?

@md9897 Год назад

Apologies for the late reply. The DR Power part number is A0001719593 for the 1.0 OD x .115 Wire x 8.0 Long spring. I actually broke the end of my spring last weekend, and looks like DR/Generac don’t have them. So I ordered part number 1942N942 from McMaster Carr. It’s a stainless spring measuring 1.0 OD x .125 wire x 8.0 Long with hook ends