Excellant info especially the bit where you actually showed using the trowel to get the plaster off of the lathe. All others usually say "as you can see the plaster has come away from the lathe around the area due to the reciprocating saw or similar tool used."
I have a small area of chrysotile in my ceiling in downstairs utility. Just wondering is it better to remove all with aspestos firm or retail original lathe strips?
Hi there. I have a house with rock lathe walls and ceiling. Is like a 2x4 sheet with plaster over and had a gritty rough finish texture I need to patch. How would I go about this?
Quick question if I may. We have plaster lathe walls that are soft or spongey in areas. Would this repair option work on those areas or would it be better to plasterboard the whole wall. It’s a wall in our box room. Any idea what causes the sponginess? Thanks
Love your channel - keep up the good work. I would however urge people to use lime plaster to do patch repairs like this. The material may be a bit more expensive but it takes no more time - just patience between coats. I recently did some similar patch repairs in my house. Lath walls done with lime plaster is a traditional material and provides better sound insulation than plasterboard.
We used lime extensively on all external walls but simply no need to on internal stud walls, not unless a historic building that has not already suffered from previous ‘renovations’. 👍
Common sense dictat would be to cut the lath out midway between the closest vertical timber stud on both sides of the break and replace that section. That way they can all be fixed to the vertical and then patched up as per the video.
What are you using over the patched area? Is it plaster? It doesn't look like joint compound. It's interesting to see how contractors work in other countries. He said 9mm so I guess he's referring to ¼ in. drywall. Metric isn't used here.
Not that time, I leave that to the pro! Smaller walls or bathrooms maybe but 3m ceilings and all that natural light would show up how 'rustic' my skimming is!
It seems plasterers don’t even know what ‘lime plaster’ is these days. Can’t count how many times they’ve suggested ‘dot and dab’ instead after a confused pause.
It's actually not a real huge cost to rip out and board, as the only cost is the plasterboard and screws. It is the sheer disruption, dust, and unnecessary waste. I try and keep what I can as it has done pretty well for 110 years so can't be that bad. If not living in during reno then perhaps a bit more tempted to gut everything but again it would create much more work and waste.
