Keep an eye on that side with the rust in the frame. The chunks that you were pulling out was the torque box. I had to replace my drivers side it was in rough shape and had rot around one of the leaf spring mount holes
Believe it or not, the front sections of the frame rails are easy to fabricate using 1.5" wide plates, can't recall the gauge though. On my '79, I fabbed up a front section for the passenger side that looked absolutely identical. I did the same on the driver's side but didn't bother with trying to make it look perfect, it's a bit more squarish. The rear portions of my rails were shot as well but I just bought damaged sections of reproduction frame rails off of Ebay for an excellent price. BUT, I have to admit that I was using a rotisserie and a plasma cutter. I wouldn't wanna try it otherwise. I like the idea of boxing in the frame rails. Use extreme caution with 60's Mustangs; automatically assume you will need a complete floor, trunk pan, frame rails and torque boxes. Also, the 60's are the most often flipped of the classics and are usually done poorly with a lot of rot damage purposely hidden. We had a 66 and a 67 that were both complete debacles. I do have to admit though that they were just a bit easier to work on than the Firebirds.
Thanks.....If I had a rotisserie, that would have made things a lot easier for sure. Thanks for the input on the Mustang...the way the seller responded to my questions made me think twice and refocus on my TA. It did look like a rust bucket. 😆
Oh shit big dog look like you getting serious about that damn welding got that drive safe all painted up shit boy are you gonna look like happy marvel on that thing!
