I blew the qs273 8000w hub motor, on the Tommebike Icon but hopefully I can get it back on the road soon This is part 1 of the repair on the Tommebike Icon.
Bro don’t beat yourself up, it is what it is, and not many people are building e😮bikes like you without at team behind them, so just get back at it and keep it pushing. Don”t let haters make you second guess yourself. Peace.
Total bummer! I am anxious to see this repair and as a QS273 owner I feel your pain. When you can I still want to see a video on the reinforcement of the rear dropout. Thanks for the great content!!
Don't be yourself up brother! Any and All hobbyist have been there. I've fried flight controllers being in a hurry trying to solder. Have tried soldering on things when electricity is going thru them, wrong settings on my PID Controller, and many other stupid things that I knew better to do but did it anyway. $1000s burned and lost in fly aways. I took it all as a learning experience being I am self taught also. Stay Tough!
Add cooling oil to the motor, this way not only the electromagnets get hot, the heat is distributed evenly in the motor body. However, you should wrap the heatsink cooling immediately around the motor, this makes it easier to throw the heat inside out. In this way, I can run my 2000 watt motor with 6000 watts of power, it was very useful.
Good to see you EBH after hearing about floods in FL. My first ebike from 4 years ago , one of the gears is broken and now no good. It had 41k miles and I used it many times going up 6 hills every day. Only 600$ 4 years back and I converted it to be a dual motor so its running still until I replace that rear motor with another rear I have. Was a great first ebike buy for cheap of converting to a dual motor, learned alot off this first DIY Build with 4 more others I bought and upgraded later on. The ebike you have here is hell of an ebike! Love them big tires as it is best to use them fatter ones for speeds over 35mph. The tire pressure on standard 2 inch wide tires goes thru alot of impacting between road and faster mph, they usually get deflated more often. I just ordered a regular Trike Bike to convert into 2ooo watt ebike, had to make sure the front forks haf shocks for its 1 extreme need for ebikes over 500 watts from snapping or breaking.
Man sorry that happened to ya Bruh! I learned the hard way about not having torque arm on an E-bike on my first build. It broke my front fork in half and that build was done. Now I have TWO torque arms now on my latest build. Hard and costly lesson. But I learned. It happens to the best of us. You will be back n the road soon enough.
I thought i blew up my motor a few weeks ago with a sabvoton controller. it did something similar with what felt like hard vibration with the power going out. I ordered another motor and controller, but after testing it with a ebike tester, determined it was the controller itself. the one good thing about these ebikes is they are simple machines and many times you can just replace wires or capacitors and get it back running easily. Sure beats a piston going through a cylinder.
Race cars break all the time and nobody hates on the chassis or engine builders...you are breaking the limits of what these bikes can do...shit might break sometimes. You being open about it says more than anything, sharing the repair process...real shit.
issues are bound to happen and like you said we are human, stay focus try not to deviate from your path bro, it's a learning experience im sure people are learning from you, your awesome but as a fellow youtuber and subscriber stay safe.
Yep, the struggle is real. Educating people on the benefits of an ebike in a family houshold is a powerful message you are sending. While there are costs like blown motors…. Its small compared to adding a used car onto the family insurance policy, not to mention car tires, car maintenance costs even on a used car. AND, you can’t walk a car thru your front door like you can an ebike. And ebikes will get us thru hard times! 🇺🇸
Yes, I definitely want to see you repair. Build anything to do with the knee bike. Cause I love learning stuff and I feel that you're a great teacher. And I love the way you explain stuff how you do. It is impressive please make more views I'm repairing. I would like to see a stock bike. Turned into an ebike every step it takes. You know, I'm sure a lot more people. You've got it at least 10-15 friends that never miss your videos. Cause I'll turn them on to them, and they love them too. So from your number one fan to the number 1 ebyte.Builder, please make more step-by-step by building videos and keep on explaining the voltage.The continuity everything that goes along with it
I hope your supplier sends you a stator with temperature sensors because if you had that and had them selected in settings your motor wouldn’t be fried by a wrong tune or turn and burn settings. AN is the magnet arrangement. AN 0 for the large diameter surface mounted motors, AN 6 for the OEM Surron, AN 14-16 for V-type embedded magnets. LM is the waveform. 22 is default but I find 16 runs smoothest. You can set this in your living room or any quiet place. As per the Fardriver manual, just decrease 22, 18, 16, 14, 12 until it feels/sounds smoothest. Always set the HIGHEST LM value that gives smooth operation. So if 18->16 felt good, and 16->14 not sure, couldn’t tell, set it back to 16. The test is just accelerate from a stop a few feet. Don’t need to go far or fast. You will hear/feel if it’s better or worse. The temperature sensor is like a BMS, worth every penny. My motor doesn’t have one because it’s a 💩 motor with no optional temperature sensor but if I ever buy a QS motor, it will definitely have a pair of KTY83-122 sensors in it. It would have paid for itself 10x the first overtemp it saved you from. You have a 4kw motor, and a 12kw controller with peak power of 43kw. So temperature sensor is pretty important.
Great explanation you should be paid by Fardriver too write a proper installation manual, although it does mention all hub motors should be 0 and not more than 4, hard to believe a motor with that kind of power doesn't have a temperature sensor
@@frazzx6 ,yes, the Fardriver manual isn’t very clear on how you would know which hub motors should be AN:0 and which should be AN:2-4. The KO Moto manual gives a better explanation of the settings for Fardriver controllers since it is basically a Fardriver controller. Yes, its strange they even make a 273 40H without temperature sensors, since every real controller has motor over temperature protection. But the cheap generic controllers don’t which is why many hub motors don’t have temperature sensors. They do make cheap 4000w controllers so I guess they offer a way to save money and not get the sensors.
Can't wait for part 2 it's crap when things break but awesome when you fix it .I feel the learning experiences you get from it help broaden your knowledge on all this high power motors and controllers settings
You're awesome, I love your channel! I know you can fix it, you built it. I hope it isn't too hard though and that you get back to having fun soon. Edit: I now have watched more of the video and I'm sorry...Glad you didn't go on fire.
Yo what’s good I have a rare request. When you take the motor out to swap wheels, can you measure the diameter of the motor? I have this wild idea of fitting just a solid 14” or 16” tire on the motor itself as an experiment. Crazy idea right? The dimensions of the QS273 online appears that it could work. Then again maybe not. But that’s the great part about diy is we can push the envelope far ahead of what mass production bike builders are doing. Keep us posted on the repair! And ya this hobby is NOT cheap! I’ve also been looking into a batch of P45b Molicel as well as waiting to see when the P50 will be released. Because then we would have the option to build a smaller sized battery, say with 25-30% fewer cells but make the same power as the mega range battery.
You know they've got the qs273 16 & 14 inch scooter hubs? Just search "qs273 16 inch" it'll come up. Maybe it's not what you want because of the width or something but just making sure you didn't miss that.
Take your measurements at the windings. Completely remove the phase wires. I've done this myself so your motor is probably fine. You just need to replace the phase wires. The bike dropped because your phases were shorted together outside the motor windings. That will absolutely stop you real hard. The Fardriver doesbt do sensorless mode as far as I know. So you needed the phase wires which then melted the hall wires so that would stop you dead too. Don't panic. You're probably fine. Smell the motor. Burnt windings is a very distinct smell. You cannot miss it. The phases are all connected together at all times. That beep doesn't mean shit sir. You test the resistance between phases not continuity. The windings all connect together inside the motor. That's how the whole thing works dude.. Alternating signal with a shared neutral.. You should know this. Just replace your wires. Measure ohm's between each phase. They should all be the same. It will be a very low reading. Your wires just melted , that's a big ass motor, it can take a lot of abuse. Open it up I bet it isn't even black in there. You would smell those windings.
@@E-bikeguy I bet you are fine. The windings I that motor are single core and probably quite beefy. Solid wire has about 25% more ampacity than stranded wire. So your phase wires would have to be that much bigger than the wire in your motor just to match it. What did you have field weakening set at, if you passed the point of hysteresis all you are doing is creating heat. People tend to be too generous with the FW. Now your current carrying ability of your wire cannot exceed what can be pushed through its smallest section of wire. A bottleneck. Your throw power at it and if it doesn't make it to the motor to be used then shit is going to get melty. Heat is the enemy here. So I'm guessing you rewire those phase and hall wires and you are back in business. Seriously. Take a bolt out if the side cover and give that hub a sniff. Burnt laquer/enamel is loud. If the windings are burnt I would be very surprised. Even then though as long as there aren't breaks in the coils or severe meltage you can still use the existing wire . They sell spray for the windings. Ive seen people spraying over top of their windings and that is not how you do it. You have to unwind the wires and spray them unwound or you aren't achieving anything. The insulation on the wire is only as good as the thinnest spot. If you spray the winding with them wound you aren't getting coverage in the exact place that you want the most insulation, right where the wires are touching each other. You don't want them shirting across themselves or the next phase since that kills the magnetic fields that are inducing power. Your phase wires are probably wound in a wye configuration. Google that and look at the how it's wired. All 3 phases are tied together at the end. That is the your neutral point. They are always shorted. Electricity is always a loop. It wants to go back from wence it came. Neutral is not a ground, it is 180° opposite whichever phase is currently charged. Some people think it's AC power but it is not. It would be a BLAC motor instead of a BLDC motor if that were true. I did the same shit to my motor with a Fardriver. Phase wires had been pieced together after the hub motor chewed up my dropouts and spit them out. I was using some wire of questionable quality and when I put the amps to them they did exactly this. The fact that your wires melted indicates your windings are still conducting sufficient power to liquify your insulation. You should be fine. You should plan on replacing all your halls I'm guessing. I would just replace all the external wires. Have fun fishing those wires through there. That's always special. You can use a Ethernet cable for your halls etc, there are 4 pairs of 26 or 28 AWG single strand copper wires in an Ethernet cable. It's real tiny and it's rigid so it's easier to push through an axle. Use real copper wire for your phases, avoid CCA at all costs. Copper clad aluminum is horrible stuff. The motor probably came with CCA. Mine did too so you needed to replace it anyway. That crazy controller and aluminum wire and a street race. Yep. That oughta do it. Crossing fingers youbdibt need a motor. I think you will be golden after a couple of hours of rewiring and cursing.
@@E-bikeguy If you can't turn the wheel at all then all 3 phases are shorted. If it cogging and moving one magnet at a time then 2 of the phases are shorted to each other. If you ever need to know your magnet count in your motor you just touch 2 phase wires together and turn the wheel and count until you are back to where you started...use the valve stem as your start stop point. Put it at whatever o'clock and rotate.
@@E-bikeguy get those melty phases out of there. Just cut them off a prepare yourself for an evening of fishing wires. I'm sure the axle in that motor is quite large. What size were the existing phase wires? Have someone jiggle the wires while you spin the wheel and see if it's intermittent. My phase wires came together to form Voltron, if Voltron were a gooey bundle of non connectivuty goodness.
I was thinking about UPGRADING THE WIRES GOING INTO THAT MOTOR WITH that KIND OF POWER COMING FROM THAT BEAST FARDRIVER CONTROLLER I THINK IT'S A MANDATORY UPGRADE !!!
@@E-bikeguy look master you have your own platform and it doing great you can't worried about another man opinion like you said everyone makes mistakes can you fix the mistake yes cheers!!!
Been watching a lot of your videos. Wow man your doing some good work there. I'm a disabled veteran, can't ride motorcycles anymore. Seriously thinking about getting a ETrike . I am really interested in learning to make those batteries. Not so much for speed, but for long distance.
You got a little patreon or something I ain't got much money but maybe if a few of us put in we could help you get that motor. I got 10 on it. Don't worry sometimes you got a break a few eggs to make an omelet.. either way if I see you on my feed I'm going to shoot you a like.
Maybe the phase wire insulation just melted and your phase wires are just shorted. If so, get some 130c rated rubber electrical tape from home depot, re-insulate and you should be good! hoping for the best, can't wait to see the inside of this 273!
1000% this. That shit works. He just melted his phase and hall wires. The motor is probably fine. The phase wires are tied together inside the motor so they always read as dead short in continuity mode. Statorade. It works. 5ml gets the job done. I think it says 6 or 7 in the instructions but the sell it in 10ml portions. What a great way sell more motor schmoo. 5ml works just fine.
Sorry to hear that Bro 😢 i am sure you will get it fixed! and it will make interesting content that helps other people. I burned up the phase wires on my BBS02 mid drive 😅 its nice you can get a stator, and don’t need to buy a whole new motor. It will be interesting to see the inside of the 273. In my motor, i couldn’t tell where the wires shorted, i think it was the insulation on the phase wires failed. Cuz i don’t see any burned up wires. I wonder how tricky it would be to rewind the stator?
Do you have a background in electronics because you seem pretty well informed for an amateur. 🙏 I am learning ALL of this from beginner level last time I had a bike I was 9 and im 27 now and I don't know a thing about electronics but I aim to get very educated about electronics.
Man that really sucks. It’s crazy to hear somebody so knowledgeable of bikes I have one question though can you possibly link where you got that bag for your battery?
Hey Tommi so sorry to hear about your motor not working. I hope you can get it fixed soon i know how you feel when you have things go wrong. I know you will be able to get back to riding real soon. Please take care buddy.
As stated in the video, he believes it was when he set LM too low. LM is the waveform and must match the motor. If you know anything about tuning old cars, LM is similar to ignition timing. Setting it retarded is safe but doesn’t make the motor run its best. As you slowly advance the timing, based on the fuel octane, the motor runs better and better. But at a certain point, if advanced too much, the combustion actually tries to push the engine backwards and it makes less power and extremely high cylinder pressure. Same with LM. Default is 22. It normally runs ok, safe, but not its best. As you “advance” it to 20…18….16… it gets better, smoother, quieter, cooler. But if you keep going 14…12…10… it starts to run inefficiently. The power going into the motor starts making more heat than torque. Thats why the Fardriver manual says use the highest setting that gives a noticeable improvement in the motor jitter. For me it’s 16. For all QS273 I helped tune its 16. But its highly dependent on the motor magnets, which determines the AN value. The final analogy is, if you take 3 different motors with different magnet arrangements, and connect them to an oscilloscope, and and spin the motor to create energy, each motor will have a different wave form. To make each motor run smoothly, it must use the same waveform from the controller to give smoothest most efficient operation. For most hub motors it seems LM 16 is the sweet spot. KO Moto, which is a Fardriver with some hardware changes, actually doesn’t allow you to change LM with the new app. And for the PC app, they recommend not changing it. But perhaps they set it at 18 or 16 default instead of 22 and lock it there.
Sorry to here that ebike guy, such a cool bike, not your fault everything is trial and error with the Fardriver, the controller should have cut out before the damage, let us know if it has a temperature sensor. I messed all of the settings trying to get low end power out of the Fardriver, i noticed some QS motors have KTY83-122 temperature sensors optional by defalt
I don’t think his motor has a temperature sensor, but he’s changed motors so many times that he might have one with sensors. Before he was using the Cacu motor temperature simulator, but he never calibrated it so it was shutting the controller down prematurely, and then he just set tempSensor to none. I don’t have a temperature sensor so I do use Cacu. Its in no way as good as having the KTY83-122 sensor in the motor and selected in settings, but it’s a must for anyone running high power who might not have enough self control. Lol In this case, if it was calibrated to allow the motor to reach an actual 160c before shutting down, if the LM setting was way out, causing severe inefficiency in the motor, the Cacu simulation would not know that the same 30kw is now making 20kw of heat. But in normal situations Cacu will save the motor if calibrated.
@@frazzx6 , thats not how to set low end torque. You should set the throttle correctly, which is 0.1v-0.2v higher than its mine throttle setting. I would have to know more about your complete system. A lot of people set Surron wrong in the Fardriver because they think its middrive so it needs AN 16, but the surron is surface mounted magnets, and AN4-6 is correct for that motor (unless you changed it to an embedded magnet motor). Do you have a screen recording of your settings and an acceleration run on the graph page? If you do and post it to your channel i can tell you what I suggest. But it’s definitely not your throttle voltage cause low end torque.
Sorry to hear about the bike going down what about the tune you had with the very first tommybike that was good and made it sound wild... im suprised they didnt offer a half price hub because i got all 3 my motors from them from watching your video's because You made them lots of sales last few years... just saying
Sorry to hear about your motor, I feel your pain I just bought one. Why don't you check your throttle voltage with the phone app? You should be able to see voltage readings fluctuating if your throttle is faulty, much like a scan tool for cars. Love your shows. Mark from OZ.
Hi that’s to bad but it’s a learning experience but you can learn how to rewind the stator and make it work at hi amp there is a RU-vid on ingland and in colombia that they have drifrent combination of rewinding got to look it up can put better wires.
Don't get me wrong your way smarter than me but I've been thinking of building my own but you think the power your pushing a mid drive motor would be better. Just asking
Hey Tommy I have that victrip Titan 750 that I've told you about a couple times I did that shunt mod and it did make a difference and thank you for that but I was also wondering how can I get some more power out of my bike the easiest way getting a better controller cause mine is a 22amp my battery is a 48v 32ah I was wondering if I should just upgrade my controller or my battery but I don't know which would be the easiest way to get more power
Hey do you have any experience with the vruzend diy battery kits? Seems really cool not having to use a spot welder to build a custom battery. I was wondering if you could build a battery with molicel p45b's i need a triangle 72v 80a, how much would you want for something like this? Thank you 🙏
Those 3 fase wires are quite thinner than it should be i think. I’ve also been thinking this for many months about my own bike and I have been guessing what size yours are i seen em now.
