@@fathersonrepairdiy did cutting off the corners of the drain plug work well over time? Did the fix hold for the last 4 years or were there still problems with the plugs? I'm having the same problem.
Of the videos addressing this problem, I found this one the best. Ordered the kit from Amazon and pretty much followed the video and it got done..but did take about two hours..my internal drain tube was frozen so it took some time to defrost (with hairdryer). The use of a turkey baster to suction up water was insightful. You'll need a bunch of towels and a flashlight is crucial. I was advised to twist the tongue of the replacement clip 90 degrees to facilitate drainage. All in all this video did the trick (and a few others). Thank you very much..very helpful.
great diagnosis! After two fixes, we figured out that the drain tube has that duck bill at the end, meant to stop warm air from coming up, but makes it clog easily. The modified tube that samsung sends is just like the original, but with a circumcision to open the duck bill to not clog again. Also, The drain tube should have been made to go straight down from the end of the gutter, but they put it in the middle with elbows! If the water stays while defrosting, it freezes inside the turns when the cooling cycle begins. The heating dongle should not be necessary if the tube immediately drains dry. The hot water and syringe trick works well. We have circumcised the bottom end of the tube, so this should stop.
Great tutorial on addressing the issue and fixes. Samsung owe you for this and owe us an apology for not addressing this issue on a recalling this design flaw. 👍🏻
Yes, that V-shaped thing at the bottom of the drain tube looks like it's *designed* to clog, such a narrow slit-opening! Perhaps it's intended to slow down the flow of water, but it's hard to imagine that there's any drain water that would be flowing so fast as to *need* to be slowed down!
Thanks for posting this video. I had ice accumulation towards the fan area, which was causing a low frequency thudding sound, as the fan rotated and hit the ice. Also had to clean both drain hoses in the back of the fridge as well. When facing the back of the fridge, the drain hose on the right hand side was the one that had the blockage with minerals and mold. The left hand side drainage hose was just stained a little grey. Great breakdown and explanation.
I cant thank you enough for this video, paid $5 for the metal defroster piece and followed your steps to remove and clean the drain tube, likely saved a $300 bill from the repair man so thanks again!
Look at the number of people who have viewed this RU-vid and others that talk about the same problem. Samsung seems to have a problem! Mucho gracias for the process to fix a Samsung unit
We had the same issue. Your video was what I used to take the back off and clean the drain hose and adapter. Was able to drain water out without spilling water because of your video. Great job and thanks
This worked great! Be sure to check all the drains. I was baffled at first because the center drain was clear and the inside was still blocked. The middle drain on the right side turned out to be the problem child. Once I opened that one, the inside drain cleared up immediately. No new water on the inside 12 hours later. Thanks guys!
Awesome video!! Detailed and provided me a quick fix. My recommendation would be to clean filter first and get rid of all water under pull out drawer. Mine was simply a clogged drain. Black junk that clogged that horribly manufactured piece of rubber. 5 screws out and a toothbrush cleaning. No more water. Thank you!! Don't be afraid to open the back post unplugging. There is a warning that a tech should only do it but it simple. Once you turn fridge on you may get an error code. Google the code and you hold two button to reset. Good luck all on fixing this poor manufacturing. Samsung will not be purchased again. My 15 year old monster in the garage never clogs. It was also have the price.
Great video, thanks for posting. Always thought my drain line was freezing so I kept defrosting the fridge every 2-3 months. After watching this I found both the freezer and fridge lines were blocked right where yours were. Hoping after this fix I can get a little more than two months between a defrost, thanks again!
Both of mine too! And that little flexible valve thing was so brittle and stuck together that it fell apart when I tried to get the two side apart. I fell your pain of the two month defrost cycles (I have a sticky note on the door where I post the dates.
Fantastic Father & Son! My kid has been helping me for years, too. At some point your son will point something out that you missed or correct you on a step. It was jarring and made me proud the first few times I had the experience - savor that time together! Hey - I was able to get a hold of that larger heater tab so am hoping it does the trick - unfortunate design flaw on the part of Samsung. Thanks a lot!
Replaced the clip but pipe was still clogged with ice, so used a small sink unclogging snake to gently break the ice and hot water down the drain until drain was unclogged and water coming down the back pipe drain and cleaned the back pipe. Worked! Thank you for posting the video
My Samsung fridge (never again!) is still under warranty so the repairman just left. I told him about the piece you can add to stop the freezing but he said it would void my warranty. Now that I see there is an actual part made by Samsung I will tell them to order it the next time I need them to come out! I'm sure it will happen again. Thanks for the video, very helpful!
My Samsung didn't have a heating element so your video made me look for the tubes and mine were not only clogged, the build up was about 1/4" thick. Of course water splashed all over the place just like in the video. At least now I can just turn this into a maintenance item and never have to worry about water buildup into the compartment again. Thanks, dude.
Thank you,thank you. Did the defrost with no results. Found your video which solved my problem. Spent many hours doing each task but with your timely help got great results. Frige back together and working. Hope it lasts another 5 years before I have to do it again. No excuse for Samsung not fixing these simple low cost manufacturing / design problems.
Excellent father/son work! It turns out that our freezer and fridge tubes were both blocked. We wasted so much time trying to melt non-frozen water. We periodically had to chisel ice from under the freezer drawer when water began pooling on the floor. So glad to learn how to resolve this before installing a new hardwood floor.
Just an add on to the replacement clip. When putting the cover back on after the repair, make sure you lift the cover up into place before putting pressure on it to close it up. I didn't pay attention when putting the cover panel back on and the curved aluminum at the bottom of the panel, which should it inside where the water drains, missed going in and was crunched below instead of sitting in the cavity. I then had lots of water draining, so I took it out and gave it a little bend back up and was more careful when replacing the cover and made sure it was in the cavity. Just another tip than can help repeating all this
Yup! This was it for mine as well. Acccording to the Samsung site, there are a LOT of folks with the same problem. I did all the exact same things, and at the end it was the tube in the back, down below, clogged. Funny thing is, I looked at that tube a while ago, and it seemed fine. I didn’t realize there were 2!! Found the second one, and it was the culprit. Well done with this video. Helped me immensely.
I don't know if you still read this, but thank you. Mine is an LG with the same back panel. I did everything as if it was iced over, but that's not the problem. I'll be checking the drain tube for gunk in it, next. Thanks for the information. At least, now I know *how* to do it. Oh, I did put a copper wire in it (on the heating element), just in case there might be an issue in the future. THANK YOU!
My problem was ice buildup behind the panel and a block of ice stopping the fan from running, and I have the kit (available online, which also includes that little probe that you clipped on) to add a secondary heater to prevent freezing. Letting it thaw overnight to see if there is an ice blockage in the drain. Thank you for the video.
Thank-you so much! Last time, the drain was frozen up above with ice. This time, the drain was clogged down below. Excellent tutorial! Lesson learned: I'll never buy anything Samsung again. They don't even acknowledge that there is a problem!
I had the exact same issue and this video was perfect. When I removed the panel, the drain line didn’t appear to be frozen and water still wasn’t draining through the drain line. I ended up cleaning out the drain hose behind the back panel like he did and everything went well after that. Water was draining fine after that.
Done. Thank you again, sir. I found out mine was also clogged and not just frozen. I ended up leaving my fridge unplugged for about 9.5 hours total. I don't hear the fan rumbling anymore(thanks to removing the ice). Again, I can't thank you enough for this instructional video that was easy to understand and replicate(First time EVER having the balls to do something like this with a Fridge). You just saved me a lot of money because I was going to have a repair man come do this.
clean/vaccum your coils while your down there checking your drain tubes....mine were so filled with dust that they had to be hindering the heat exchange, and, according to another video, this makes the compressor have to work harder and longer, leading to inefficiency. After watching all these videos, I too will never be buying a Samsung fridge again. Thank you for leading me to the drain pipes...one of those holes was clogged so I'll see tomorrow if it's frozen up again or, hopefully, problem solved. I had already bought and applied the heating clip yesterday but when i opened the fridge today, that water in the drain was frozen again. We'll see if the drain pipe clearing and coil cleaning finally fixes this.
Thanks, Father &, especially, Son for a job WELL DONE! I'm going to take off the back of my fridge, first, and inspect the drain hose. It stands to reason, my problem is the same as yours. In addition, the problem (ice forming under the crisper drawers) has gotten progressively worse. That makes sense as the "clog" has most liken worsen, over time. My electric bill has skyrocketed in the last year. I believe this is because the defrost motor keeps cycling off and on throughout the day trying to prevent ice from forming. Question: Did you see a significant drop in your electricity bill after you removed the clog from the drain line? If this is the case, these Samsung defective refrigerator has cost consumers, literally, millions of dollars in wasted electricity! Thanks, again, for this great video!
You are welcome! That is a great question about the electricity usage. I did not notice a difference at the time but maybe I was not looking for it. I hope it helps you!
Hey man... awesome tutorial and exactly what I was looking for! My stupid Samsung french door fridge is having the same issues. Now I can fix it! Your volumes are out of wack tho! The speaking is too quiet and the music is too loud. Don't get me wrong, I like that music you chose. I keep having to turn the speaking all the way up and then the music blasts out and I have to hurry and turn it down.
Really thorough video, thank you so much for posting it, I searched and found the heating element replacement videos but had to search for while to find yours. Hopefully it will fix our fridge!
Great video. I fixed my fridge, but I would suggest before you take the entire thing apart to check for freezing. Check the drain line in back for a clog first. Much easier to look in the back first, than to take everything out and apart.
Samsung owes you $$$$$!!!!!. i spent some time online with customer support and all I got was "schedule a service call." I will be fixing this tomorrow.
Van. Excellent father/son work! It turns out Great Video. Extremely helpful with very clear procedures. I followed your directions and you saved me a lot of time and money. Thanks!
Thank you for taking the time, I had to do this before but was trying to find a cure for it, thanks to this video I learned about the heating replacement element. Just going to order one to replace it.
That tiny rubber fitting looks like Samsung designed it to clog easily. They want you to buy a new fridge rather than actually repair it as you did. I know someone with this model and I know they will have this issue. Your video is informative and helpful. Another thing to do is clean that condenser coil, the fridge will struggle when it's coated in dust. My older refrigerators all have a straight through design on that drain hose.to allow maximum drainage. Nothing like older equipment that's built to last.
My 1991 GE side by side has just a tube that runs from the bottom of the freezer where the evaporator is past the compressor into the drip pan where the heat from the condenser and the airflow from the fan will evaporate it. The inside of the drain can be accessed in about 10 seconds by removing the bottom drawer in the freezer.
I've got a 1995 GE built in, everything is up above on that one. I just had to replace the heated drain pan on it, I made sure that the drain line to the pan by the condenser and fan was all clean before installing the new part.
To the gentleman who made this, thank you so much. Like some others have said, I watched a lot of other videos and none of them had an actual fix. One of them even said the only way to fix it is to buy a new fridge. That being said, I was curious, based on the issue you had, would you recommend cleaning out the drain tubes first to see if that fixes the issue, and skip taking the panel off? Address the panel second if the drain tube cleaning doesn't fix it. Would you agree with that?
I came across another problem with not draining. The metal shields are galvanized steel. They will rust! The door cover shield rusts at the drip line, causing a dripping into the refrigerator. I folded a piece of duct tape and inserted it underneath the galvanized sheet on the door. Thus providing a secondary drip line at the bottom of the Shield. You need to replace the metal shield with aluminum or foil. If you notice any rust discoloration the metal shield is rusting and needs to be replaced. The Heater element tab does do the job. If ice builds up in the trough and the tab is not touching you have a clog in the drain piping. A longer element tab will not melt the ice it will refreeze and not drain.
This video is from five years ago, but to update the problem, I went through the same issue this year (2022) with a recently acquired used 2009 Samsung fridge and installed the same updated heat transfer clip that is supposed to keep the drain line from freezing up. That improved clip was included in an official Samsung upgrade parts kit that was intended to solve this common problem & included stick-on foil & foam insulating strips to attach to the metal plate behind the evap coils and a pair of new drain tubes that go in the back down by the condenser coils. Those are the ones that were gunked up in this video. It did not solve the problem. The drain line froze up again, and once again water was collecting at the bottom of the fridge compartment. In my case the water didn't go into the fruit & veg drawers, just collected underneath. I spent the better part of a morning trying to unclog the drain line using boiling water and a 1/4" clear vinyl piece of tubing attached to the end of a turkey baster to pour boiling water into the drain, used a wet/dry shop vac to suck the cooled water out, shoved the vinyl tubing (which fit in to the opening)) as far down from the top & up from the drain outlet at the bottom as possible, almost the full length of the drain line. Finally after a couple hours & iterations of hot water I was able to melt the ice & clear the line, but it was a sonofabitch of a job. Another RU-vid video on fixing this problem suggested adding an auxiliary aftermarket heating element from Supco (15 watt drain heater model SH502 www.supco.com) to splice into the OEM defroster heating element wires. The idea was to attach the added heating element across the top of the evap coils to prevent a ball of ice forming around the upper right corner of the evaporator & blocking the circulation fan. That was never the problem on my fridge & I so didn't install the extra heating element during my initial attempt to correct the problem with the Samsung kit & improved clip. So now what I'm going to do is install the secondary heating element along the drain pan at the bottom of the evap & insert several inches of the element down into the drain line opening where the clip goes. It's small enough diameter that it shouldn't impede water flow. The problem is once enough water freezes in the drain line to block it more water continues to back up & freeze & then water overflows into the fridge. It's a poor design but hopefully the added 2nd heating element will work.
We also found both drain rubber hoses were clogged when we pulled them out. The top of the hose narrows to slits and is easily blocked with gunk. The replacement hoses have a different design.
I put a copper wire through the drain..hooked it to the heating element and NO MORE problems! I pushed almost 2 feet into the drain hole. I don't know if that much was necessary but it worked! And that's after I paid 2 repairmen to come out who did nothing other than to thaw the ice out with MY blow dryer. Thank you all you guys on RU-vid who told me how to do it! PS I'm a woman...nothing stops me! It's been 6 months and it's working perfectly.
@@missmaureen9509 Im SO sorry! Did you use a heavy gauge wire? I used a pretty thick one and it WAS a bit difficult wrapping it..and I did it about 3 wraps to increase surface area. You did wrap it around the heating element right? All I know is that I musta pushed it through the drain at least 2 feet. When I FIRST covered everything back up it dripped a tiny bit and I thought..oh no. But it took some of that metal tape like he shows here and taped it securely before it got moist from condensation. Also the rubber thing he shows here got a thorough cleaning and I cut the corners a tiny bit on each side creating a V shape to make the hole bigger..I wish you luck!
@@rocnloretta I did all of that. Even clipped those things on the very end of the drainage pipes. Is there a way to check/ clean the line itself? Maybe it's clogged from the water staying in it. This fridge was an expensive mistake. Wish there was a way to replace the drain line with something fatter that wouldn't freeze up. Thank you for your time.
@@missmaureen9509 I could feel the ice when I threaded he copper down through the drain and could tell that it was about 2 feet down but it wasnt frozen solid..more like a ice-slush..so I kept pouring warm-hot water down the drain like he said here until it cleared. I also used the wire like a plunger until I felt it break loose. Obviously the drain pan had to be mopped out afterwards.
Have you watched ALL of the youtube videos on this issue. I saw a couple where they replaced 2 different types of sensors and was just about to order those when I decided to try the copper first. There must be 7 diff videos w various solutions.
Thank you so Much for the video!! Mine was frozen... when we took off the back panel ice everywhere... I think I’m gonna have to order that part. Thanks again!!!!
The part on the btm will not fix the ice. You have to install a auxiliary heater to boost the defrost cycle. There is a kit I bought from his you tube video fixing this problem for good. It's Bens appliances. He put together a kit that is less than Amazon. You will need to buy the drain hose retrofit kit though because it doesn't include that due to b cost of the molds for the parts.
Great video! There are other good videos that only address the frozen drain plug behind the refrig inside panel. After seeing this video I removed the refrig outside back panel and then the piece which connects the rubber drain tube to the refrig drain tube [as he shows here]. When I cleaned the v-shaped section of the connector with a toothbrush [as in the video] the v-shaped rubber disintegrated. It had hardened but at least it opened up. One more issue to pay attention to is the backside of the refrig inside panel, with the inside panel removed you can see how the water should drain. If either formed sheet metal piece, on the inside panel or the main drain pan, are bent the water may go into places other than the drain pan. I put plumbers' putty on the seam of the main sheet metal drain pan just in case. So far it is good, no water under the crisper. Once you know how the water is supposed to drain look for possible weak designs, damaged seals, or bent sheet metal. Use silicon or plumbers' putty or ___________ to simply help the water stay where it is supposed to while it drains.
nice video.....helped me figure out what I needed to do on my Kenmore refrigerator with similar issue.....best video I've found for my similar refrigerator. You might want to get a new tube brush now!
Dude, so helpful, you are awesome for sharing this video. My line was also clogged with "gunk" so much, I had no idea. Thank You, you saved me so much $$$$$$
Great video. We found ours had two drains in the back one of which was blocked. After we got it fixed and put together again, the ice maker does not work.
Thank you. I'm fixing mine as I type(water froze in mine). I really appreciate the video. It was easy to understand and you did a great showing showing each step. Subscribed and I will let you know how it goes when I'm finished.
Hey, I'm having the same issue where blocks of ice are forming behind the twin cooler panel in our fridge. Drain seems to freeze up in our situation too. Did this fix end up working for you?
Thanks for the very helpful video. Samsung has redesigned the rubber "check valve" part on the lower drain. My 2015 fridge had an ice dam under the coil. While I was melting the ice I checked the drains in the back of the fridge. Each drain still has the rubber check valve but now there is a small 1/8" hole on each side in the rubber just above the slit.
Taking the old clip off would help it drain. Also the drain hose replacements have better drainage. I am having this issue. I am ordering new clip and new hose. Thanks for the video
Thank you for that clogging part. I took a narrow pipe brush and put it down that drain and it must have knocked something out because now it drains. One tip... the music was not a good addition and tighter editing would have helped.
If you store a lot of uncovered or covered food in the freezer, in time this will cause moisture and freezing of the drip tray. I spent 5 hours solving this by removing the inner wall and defrosting it with a paint stripper. Water dispenser hose was also frozen. Next time I'll do it differently. If I go on holiday for a week or more, the freezer and refrigerator are empty, the power is turned off, the doors open and the fridge/freezer combination defrosts itself in a few days. At most a puddle of water at the back underneath, which evaporates automatically. When you get home, turn on the power and fill the refrigerator again. The two rubber hoses should be cleaned like in this video and dust should be removed once in a while.
A SAMSUNG SAGA: Thanks ALL Y'ALL for the threads below - especially dad & son! This was most helpful for working on my 2011 side by side Samsung RS265 TDRS that worked fine out in the garage for 8 years - then bam!. My misfortune came as the refrigerator stopped cooling. There was a solid block of ice behind the rear panel that would not come out after the 6 screws were removed. It was totally frozen into a block of ice. Once the ice melted with a hair blower & a blowing shop-vac, I found another worse problem. A black tar-like seal around the copper coolant line on the top left had melted & flowed down all over the blades of the evaporation coil; the tar dripped down onto the aluminum curved drainer tray, then down into the drain line. Once in the drain line, the tar cooled then solidified and clogged the drain line! Then the condensation (water) flowed over the little dam and down under the drawers, and out onto the garage floor (concrete fortunately). I went through a whole can of GUNK automobile engine cleaner to remove the tar (what a stinking mess) 😖. The GUNK finally dissolved all the tar off the fins and back of the 'fridge. The resulting goo was removed with lots of those blue paper towels. I then used a drill bit by hand twisting to slowly remove tar plug from the first vertical part of the drain line. But then the drain line turned to the left, then back down to the evaporation tray. I shifted to a long twisted metal straw cleaner type brush like you used in your video. Despite rodding it out from both ends, I could not break thru the tar plug 😥. I filled the drain line from the top with solvent and closed it back up. My hope is that over time it may dissolve the plug (probably won't) and allow water to drain, but I know it will freeze up again sooner or later. I am now looking to purchase a "micro snake" that I can use to finally clear the tar in the drain lines down through the bends to the evaporation pan under the freezer side of the RS265. (Anybody have any ideas here?) By the way, both of my flexible tubes that empty into the evaporation pans were clogged as was shown in this RU-vid. My lines were so brittle that they broke apart when I cleaned out the crud that was halted where the "supposed flexible closed eyelash valve gismos" hardened together. I guess it was meant to prevent ?warm air? from coming back up the lines, but caused more problems than cures. It would seem the Samsung engineers / designers refuse to accept responsibility for their flawed designs year after year after year. I heard this is likely intentional so that we peeps just get tired of fixing it and buy a new Samsung --- that will likely have the same debilitating problems. I think I have purchased my last Samsung despite how much I liked it years ago. So here I am on my fifth cycle of opening up the back. I hope if next time I can snake out the tar clogged line, upgrade the heating element clip that goes down into the drain line, replace the two petrified final vertical drain lines into the evaporation trays (snipping the "eyelash valves)" and maybe assess how I can better direct the heat from the defroster elements, maybe I can stretch out my defrosting servicing to annual cycles. (a shop vac blowing warm air under the back panel; two two tennis balls behind the bottom of the panel melts all the ice in a hurry in about one hour). Oh, another miracle of miracles, after my second "service", the RS265 TDRS control panel went totally wonky showing only " S E" while there was no response on any of the push points on the control panel. That was four months ago. This cycle after removing the tar and having the unit unplugged for over 12 hours, the control panel came "back from the dead" and is working OK on all functions as best I can see. Wctuallyrunning Thanks again Y'All! 😉
I've found something also alarming when repairing mine for the same issue, however it's not very surprising. The condenser coils in the bottom of the fridge were clogged completely with dust. I've already did the disassembly and defrost of the fridge compartment 3 times and every time the drain froze and the fan jammed from a block of ice at the top right of the evaporator coils. In all cases the defroster element was working as it was left with a huge pool of water and a frozen drain line. This causes condensation in the fridge so you get way more ice buildup on the evaporator thus it accumulates much faster. In the case of a blocked condenser airflow this will also cause very cold spots on the evaporator coils, which also contributes to the problem. Make sure everything is clean down there including those drain lines. They make the holes small at the bottom to stop air from flowing through them. I've also done the copper wire mod this time, hopefully this is the last time it has to come apart!
Great vid buddy... but by opening up the drain flap more than designed the risk is every time the fridge or freezer door is opened it sucks moist air ( heavy with moisture from the external drain tray ), fluff or cockroaches even back up thru the opening made and into the freezer causing it to freeze up more and work harder. Just a good clean and maybe the extended drain heater ( only if the drain is freezing ) should be suffice. The better drain systems use a one way flap to allow the water to escape and a check valve to allow a small amount of air to enter so the door can be opened against what should be a vacuum.
So, I'm not clear why the duckbill check valve in the drain line above the pan even needs to be there? You cut a tiny bit more of an opening to keep the drain working but if you cut the entire end of it off, what would happen? Would it cause too much water to run down too fast or something? Also, how do you take the drain pan out or is it just fixed and you have to empty it with a turkey baster? Finally, can I ask if, two years and 10 months later, you've had any additional problems with it? Thanks so much for all the info!
Hi! That fridge ended up biting the dust because the compressor went out about 6 months later so I unfortunately had to buy a new one. The duckbill valve is there so you don't loose a bunch of cold air out the drain line so I think it's an energy efficiency thing. I don't know how to remove the drain pan. It looked like it was not worth the effort so I just left it in place and used the baster to remove the water. It probably could be done but not sure.
Great video! Is there a reason why you only cut a small piece of the corners of the drain tube? I don't see why you couldn't cut more just to be sure the water drained properly. I actually don't understand the purpose of the narrow slit in the drain tube??
If you open it up too much it will allow too much warm air back into the fridge (or too much cold air out) when the drain line is dry so it can affect the energy efficiency of the fridge and also possibly affect other issues. I do think the drain should be designed better so it does not clog.
I'm Korean and I'm proud of Samsung But, I feel guilty after watching this video. I'm going to send email to Samsung about this issue. I hope they could do something about it.
Don't bother.... they are already flooded with complaints.... they don't care.... Samsung is not any different than any other refrigerator makers. They all made a business decision to manufacture their products with low durability.
I have a friend dealing with this exact issue in this video. Thank you to the gentleman who made this video. I'm sorry for Samsung as they have lost two customers. I would never buy another Samsung product again. Complete garbage.
I love most Samsung products. I have Samsung TV's, Tablets, Cell phones, etc. This fridge was not the most reliable but no company is perfect. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so so much! I checked my drain hoses and sure enough the refrigerator one had a clog. I also de-iced the drain area and now I have my fingers crossed. This video was fabulous. Thanks again.
Great video! Can anyone explain for me (and others) why the drain tube check valve is shaped like it is with such a small slit? Appears to be a great dirt catcher since it's almost closed shut. Looks like a mouth with its lips shut. Why not make it wide open / problem solved?
If you leave it wide open it will allow cold air from the fridge to escape or warm air into the fridge making it much less energy efficient. I think they are trying to make it almost air tight but still allow some draining water to escape. Still not the greatest design but I think that is why it is not wide open.
My GE Adora is the same model as this. Mine was clogged as yours was, in that goofy little rubber I'm not sure why it is there piece. Of course that was after I had emptied and disassemble the interior as you did. UGH. Thanks. P.S.,,, for some reason it did not occur to me to clean the freezer drain while I was back there with the cover removed.
Thanks for the video - I followed all steps - When I took off the inside back, it was all frozen with ice in the tray. I melted it all but no matte what the water is still not going down the drain....any ideas why its still not draining??
I understand how water when frozen, can't drain from the area via the drain. But in as much as mine and many other freezer compartment freezing componets are behind a wall of sorts, thus nothing can or could accidently or deliberately fall in to the drain system. What exactly can clog the drain except fozen water.
That is a good question. Even dust particles can accumulate and form a moss like sludge in that tiny drain but probably nothing large would get in there.
This helped me fix a GFE29HSDSS. I needed a T15 star bit to get the ice maker out, but after that everything snapped out. GE makes it easy for their techs to perform the after-warranty service for $200 a pop don't they? :)
Add salt to the drain line to clear the drain. Within 10 minutes it drained. This was after several hours of trying with hot water and a syringe. We used kosher salt, but table salt should work too.
Great video. Yesterday, before watching this, I changed the heating element, but still have water in the crisper so I guess that the drain hose in the back might be the problem. I will check this today. In case I still have a problem, do you know if it could also be the sensor or fan and how can i test them?
That is a great question. I would check the drain first to make sure it is not clogged. That was my problem. I'm not sure how you would test the fan or sensor.
Thank you for the video. You mentioned needing to cut a slightly bigger hole in the rubber fixture to the drain pipe. What’s the function/design behind creating two small slits as opposed to an actual hole or at least a larger hole to the drain line? Is it to keep out larger impurities from entering in the drain pipe? Those are two very small slits.
Only thing I can think of is that it acts like a trap. It takes a little water to let it drip through. Doesn’t let the stink of the drip pan to to enter the fridge
It stops warm room air from going up through the tube into the refrigerator. Condensate lines often have a u shape at the end, water trap, to seal out warm air. The water trap is less prone to clogging so I'm thinking about making my own and getting rid of those rubber check valves.
Great video. Anyone know what the rectangular hole below the drain pipe entry hole does? Mine has ice coming out if it, and looking at all videos related to the drain pipe freezing none seem to have ice in this hole when taking of the back cover.
Excellent video i have the same fridge, thanks to you i git to fix it without any problem in about 2 hours, what i can understand how Samsung didn't do this right the first time with a really expensive fridge for a little thing they messed up huge time, u got to buy this drain heater for $8 or more online so it can work better , this is really BS from samsung thanks again for the video excellent job
