Super Video! Great resource for us DIY cottagers! The Stainless Steel Burcam Jet Pump setup is much better to prevent rust than cast iron. Looks like you have a low point in the long run on the water line under the cabin..Install a T joint with a ball cock shut off valve in the lowest point on the low side. Open the valve in the fall when draining system ... then any remaining water will empty out with gravity. As good practice, a wire clamp should be installed at the pressure switch housing to secure 14/2 wiring, not just freely connecting wire to terminals.
awesome tip! hoping this is the year i reaplve it all with PEX and then make sure its straight and sloping runs so that a tap in the line will drain it all.
I agree about the need for a rubber clamp/seal at the pressure switch housing where the 14/2 wire enters the switch, preferably a rubber one, to seal the switch from potential water infiltration which will shorting the whole thing.
I tried SharkBite connectors several years ago and ran into a lot of problems. I then installed standard copper pipe with sweated joints and never had anymore problems.
Sorry I know this is old but I just seen it so... please dump all the shark bite fitting and go PEX-A, it expands, I live in freezing cold winters, went PEX-A and never had another leak, glad you fixed the electrical, I just bought 18.55 acres of just dirt, going off grid and just purchased a similar pump and will be installing it with PEX-A.
Good video!! It's no wonder why they bust every yr. If you blocked the air from flowing under your cottage they wouldn't bust. Cold air is the devil!!!
I ran a lodge with several cabins. Blowing out pipes never worked completely. A small pony pump and RV antifreeze until you see the red in EVERY outlet, shower, toilet sinks then your system is winterized. Cabins and cottages have notoriously bad plumbing installation with lots of low spots that blowing out just leaves water behind. It doesn't take much to blow out a pipe
One tip: when priming your pump, you don't have to put that cap back in the opening each time you turn the pump on. You can just keep pouring water into it until it's primed. The water will shoot out of the opening once it's primed. Then just turn off the pump and re-install the cap. That's easier if you have a switch in the pit. Sharkbites suck, and they are expensive. For a few dollars in copper couplings and some solder you'd be all fixed.
Your well looks exactly like my cottage one! I am wondering if your pump freezes during winter? Here sometimes below minus 20C! My pump currently installed inside which is very loud so I really want it installed in the well like you do. Can I? Also my current pump separate from pressure tank. I want to replace the new one combined with tank like yours. Do you know any disadvantages of all in one? Is 1/2HP big enough or 3/4HP?
@@jinx2850 the jet pump and tank are actually separate, just stacked on top of each other. The pump will freeze, however with a pit like mine, you can spray closed cell foam insulation on the walls and lid, and then just use an icadeacent lightbulb 100w or a porcelain reptile heater socket would provide enough heat to keep it from freezing. You would still need to headline or insulate your water pipes as they will freeze too. Depending on your water demands, 1/2hp would work. But if you can budget for the 3/4, it’s going to fill your tank faster
I loved your tutorial. Thank you. We're looking to buy a new pump for a cistern that is above cottage grade so gravity not well. Would this be an appropriate system or is a different pump required? I can't find useful information. Can the pressure be set to different settings or is it default? Is there any reason, to your knowledge, that we couldn't feed the output through a UV filter? Kawartha Guy.
its pretty high pressure so should have no problem with UV filters - if the cistern is above grade that also shouldnt be an issue. Jet pumps usually can draw from a depth of 25ft max so if i am reading your comment right, this is golden. As far as adjusting the pressure goes, not sure but i think that is capable on this pump.
@@mudbrats 30 years of disaster restoration I have seen it every season you are for sure holding water and that freeze expands the shark bites. I’m not a fan of them they can fail. Maybe try priming your pump with antifreeze at the end of the season any amount in the system will do the job and then run it clear of course before using again. Good luck
Need strain relief (pass thru insulator) for AC input lines. What you did is unsafe and will chafe and short and (hopefully) pop your breaker. (this has been fixed)
I had the same pump/tank unit, but the Power Fist version by Princess Auto for the past 5 years, until 2 days ago. I think they're manufactured by the same Chinese company that makes the Burcam, they're identical. I always found the pump very noisy, and can tell by the sound of your brand new one that they have not improved it in that regard.
likely all made by the same company! mine is still going strong and i bought it used still in box so i would say it owes me nothing - still pumping and sounding the same! a lot quieter than my 40yr old myers pump haha
with all due respect, you didn't blow out the lines well enough. if you had they would NOT have broken. I am a plumber in Canada and we deal with freezing every year. they only break under ICE expansion. Maybe you should use your garden hose fitting to fill your system with RV Antifreeze the you will not have that problem again. Shark bites, although considered not great WILL DO what you are trying to do. Another point, when Priming your pump, have an outlet OPEN, this way it doesn't have to try build pressure while priming. just a garden hose will do. Once primed, you can close it again and build pressure. Sorry if this comes off negative, but I see people doing "How to videos" the wrong way and it spreads false/bad info to others; needs to be nipped in the bud.
I understand - I appreciate your input for sure! and the tips on building pressure. I never have an issue with blowing my lines until I started using sharkbites - We did use the garden hose for pressure release while priming this year and it worked well.
my old pump had a removeable nut on the outlet to drain the tank - this one does not. Do you have any tips on draining this tank? should i add a tap or coupler at the water outlet that i can blow air through?
FYI shark bite connectors are not made for high pressure they will fail. Their is another system that most of the plumbers in my area are switching to that work a lot better than shark bite. The connectors are expensive, but hold up well under high pressure. You have to use a crimping tool to crimp them once installed. the have a couple of tools available the manual one is around 800 dollars US. Their is also a battery crimper available for 1500 hundred dollars US.
Please don't take what I'm about to say personally just want to point out some flaws and maybe prevent someone from being hurt or worse. Was looking for a video to send to one of our customers 35 miles down the lake by boat. Having done several of these systems and very well versed in electrical code, found a few things here that are concerning but one could be life threating and illegal. First off hopefully you went back and on the pressure switch where the wire goes through to feed the power you installed a 40/40 connector of some sort. As the pump vibrates it may take a while but the wire will chafe and could short out or worse cause the entire pump to become electrified. A person unkowingly could then touch the pump and be electrocuted, and as we know water and electric are a bad mix. What you did is actually against the electrical code for a reason, there is no comming back from dead. The other item is your shark bite shut off valve to the outdoor line should have been installed after the cottage line, this way they could be shut of seperate. As it is if you shut off your outdoor line and the cottage is also off. Personal preference on all connections with hose clamps is they get two clamps one facing each other in the opposing direction as you are working with pressure. Also be sure to use stainless clamps with stainless screws, cost a bit more but never rust. Just another 2 cents we have attempted to use shark bites as well just as a time saver, every install on a seasonal cottage it has come back to bite us even blowing lines and using rv antifreeze. Now we use pex and have no more issues.
you can't beat SharkBite's .... they're FO SHIZZLE MY NIZZLE!! 1. you should check the pH of your water 2. you should wrap your waterlines with insulation, they're exposed to the elements ... also I know you said you drain your system but you're not getting all the water out of the lines and the water that is left over is freezing ... that is why you have water leaks. Wrap those waterlines
@@Eastbaypisces They say jet pumps are only good for around 25'. I know some people running jet pumps on deeper wells than 50' but not sure the lifespan of the pumps or reliability. Possibly another viewer here can comment with helpful advice.
Never in a house and definitely never behind a wall/drywall. They work great for cottages in open spaces under the cabin but no substitute for good old fashioned solder
If you are using high pressure use the copper Crimp connectors instead of the shark bite ones they will not fail.Shark bite connectors are good for low pressure situations. Such as a gravity feed cistern system.
Good eye. I didn’t have one when I installed it and really just wanted to get the water Goin. O had to pick one up the next time I was in town. I’ll do a follow up vid on my pump priming valve the extra connectors and converting the system from copper to pen
@@mudbrats it was a great video by the way. I have a similar pump at my cottage. I also have a couple of shark bite shut offs I use to drain my water lines. I have them placed at the lowest point. So far in two years never had an issue with them. You must have a slight dead leg where your shark bite failed.
@@truenorthmuskoka9077 thankyou! i agree there must be just enough moisture in the lines - i drain and blow the crap out of them but i think there are too many patch jobs with sharkbites thats holding the water
@@mudbrats Have you ever seen a video on how to replace the impeller. My pump is about 15yrs old. I pull mine out ever fall and take it home with me. I installed triclamp connections that make it fast and easy to remove. These connections are used in the pharmaceutical industry. They’re designed to maintain high pressure and aseptic seal within a pipe. Works great for me. I was wondering if perhaps the impeller is wearing out.
