It has been about two years since this repair. I’m happy to report. It has been reliable and no issues with this pump for two years. This is clearly demonstrating that you can replace these seals and it will last much longer and save your pump.
I've been looking for a video like this for over 3 weeks. This is the best videos step by step I love it I am going to do it screw my pool man he was trying to rip me off. Thank you so much for your help
I just picked up all the necessary parts to do this job and showed the TECH at the parts store your video, and the one thing he said was an absolute NO-NO was using silicone glue to attach the shaft seal gasket to the seal plate. He said that gasket needs to have some play to account for vibration etc, and if it’s locked in place with glue, it will end up ruining the seal down the road. He said to use the lubricant that comes in the gasket kit for both the seal plate side and the other one that goes into the impeller. I wanted to give other viewers the heads up.
I'm glad you brought this up, Andrew. I remember toiling over this decision when I was doing this. I just checked and pentair's recommendation is to apply a "small bead of silicone around the flange seal, 1/16" bead, evenly distributed with no gaps" And then pressed into the seal plate. It makes sense what the TECH told you, so I think it is up to us to decide which one we want to do. But the manufacturer does show it. Anyhow, you are probably fine either way. Just don't get ANYTHING on the surface of the seal.
Just a quick heads up in case anyone else needs to know- the exact size PVC coupler needed to put the shaft seal in place in the seal plate is a Schedule 40- 1” Coupler. Just got it at Lowe’s and it fits perfectly.
What an awesome video!! I noticed a small leak on mine with the corroded paint as well. Time to fix it! I will be using your video. You said you bought 3 different couplers at home depot to pound the new seal into place. Do you remember size coupler you used?
Sorry I can’t remember the size of the couplers. They were about $.50 each so I just grabbed one of each and then returned the one that I didn’t use in a week or two. I just don’t want to have to go back to the store for a little things like that so I just buy multiple different versions to make sure the project is complete. I hope you have success and if you learn anything new please share with the rest of us because lots of people read the comments for improvements!
Great Video, I was able to do it all myself. What if it was still leaking when I was done? :( I don't want to buy another pump. What about a stronger seal? More Forgiving? Thanks.
Question, the bad ass pool supply pump kit comes with a circular O-ring that goes on the shaft. Did you use silicone on that O ring? If so, did you put it on the face of the rubber O-ring or just in the middle so that it slides on the shaft easily?
I always coat the O-rings in some sort of silicon non-petroleum based lube, they also make dedicated O-ring lube that you can buy on Amazon. amzn.to/3OCtXEH
@@fixitwithjake I definitely did everything right and took my time but now I can’t get this thing to prime if my life depended on it. At least it’s not leaking now and the error code says priming failure rather than priming dry like before. Getting my old pool guy over today to see if he can prime the pool. He says it’s difficult sometimes to get it going again
@@fixitwithjake it definitely wasn’t your fault! Your video was awesome in regards to putting the pump together. My Pool Guy ended up coming today and there was a significant Jandy valve leak, it was leaking a ton of air, and that was the contributing problem as to why the pump would not prime. Your video helped me solve the leaking of my pump, so thank you!
Outstanding! What I liked most of your tutorial is you encountered several issues that we as pool technicians face when replacing the MSS. Your camera work and explanation was perfect. Thank you!
Best instructional video ever! Thank You!!!! I also really appreciate including the parts list with links to purchase. You Made My Day :-) Bravo Bravo!
If you let that leak for too long, it will destroy the front motor bearing. That's what happened to my 2,000.00 2.7 HP variable speed pump(JVS270S) from Leslies. Luckily I was able to find the bearings and replaced both the front and rear.
Happy to hear that! I changed the shaft seal on this pump in 2019. It is now 2024 and no leaks. So it has increased its life by at least 4-5 years already.
Great walk through im having the same issue a my jobs residential pool and whirlpool. Has anyone tried another method for securing the ceramic seal to the housing plate other than silicon? Trying to avoid having the pools be out of service for more than a few hours. Thank you !!!
It was fun to watch this. As a pool tech I've replaced 1000's of seals, these take about 25 minutes, Hayward ones maybe a 15 minute job. I use all cordless pocket drivers and extensions but for those motor plate bolts they can really get seized. Generally a long breaker bar and 6 point socket get the job done but if it's too stuck time for a new motor or pump. Anyways, nice job and totally agree with putting on some anti-seize. Sometimes in a pinch I'll put a dot of o-ring lube on the bolts... never had one work loose doing this and years later they came out easily.
Great video, thanks! You mentioned using 1.25” PVC or couplers. What was the size coupler that ended up fitting? I’m guessing it’s not 1.25” because that would be too small to fit 1.25” pvc right? I’m not sure how those are sized O.D. or I.D.?
Thanks Andrew. I went to Home Depot and grabbed 3 different size PHX couplers. They’re super cheap (.88 cents) and I returned 2 of them. Bc I’m not very good at remembering the different sizes and it’s been a year. There is a marking on the lip of the pvc. If you watch in 4K and screen shot it, you might be able to see the number!
Thanks a bunch for the video! My mechanical cable lug screw that holds it in broke off and the threads are stuck in the pump. Where did you drill a new hole to attach the new mechanical cable lug?
If it was up to me I’d rather see it on the motor casing. Bc the fan cap is just that a cap. It can come off. And I’m not sure if there will be continuity between the cap and the motor with the paint. It is there for safety so I’d mount it back on the motor if you can.
I’ve had the seized bolt issue and had to saw off the bolt head. Horrible. Absolutely positively USE ANTI-SEIZE when you assemble these units. In fact, if I put a new one in to service, I disassemble it and put anti-seize on all 10 bolts. Here’s another huge tip: remove the long motor through bolts, one at a time, (so your motor end caps don’t get out of alignment) and lube the daylights out of those threads with anti seize! Trying to remove those after years in service without anti seize, they might snap in half.
Very good suggest suggestion. I am rebuilding my pump and electric motor and 2 of the thru bolts were frozen in place and broke off. Now I need to find the new thru bolts. I always use anti-seize, but never thought about putting it on a new pump. Great suggestion.
This video was excellent. Thank you for sharing with us. I did call U.S. Steel to ask about the lubricant and they don’t recommend you use the Dynatex or any other lubricant. He suggested 50/50 water and Dawn. Cure time with this is 20min
I would re trace your assembly steps again. Sounds like something is missing inside like an o ring or on backyards. There are a lot of parts and I had to assemble mine twice bc I left a small item out as I was distracted while trying to film. It happens but go slow and methodical and you’ll figure it out.
@@fixitwithjake I'm thinking I may have put that spring in backwards. I wish I could work on it today but the weather is bad out right now. I'll let you know what I find to out to help others if they experience the same. Great tutorial by the way.
I’m attempting to rebuild mine using mostly all new parts. The schematic shows a rubber washer gasket (part 075713) goes somewhere in there too but it’s not clear exactly where. Your video didn’t show this part… do you know where exactly it might go in relation to the other parts?
it goes black plastic impeller (fan blade) then black washer part 075713 then impeller fan screw see here. Parts 27,28,29 for my pump. Make sure you have the same model. www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/pentair-pool/residential/parts-sheets/product-catalog-parts/pool-pumps-parts.pdf
This was such a HARD video to make. I don't see the washer in my video. But I remember putting the pump together twice!!! Bc I was distracted with getting the filming correct that I left out the washer and something else when I was done. So I had to do it all over again! It is actually harder then it looks to film and do the work at the same time well.
Thanks for that Jake! Yes I totally understand the difficulties in making the video. I’m a TV cameraman by trade, so I know your pain all to well! I really appreciate you taking time to make this and to respond to comments. You are making my pump rebuild project sooo much easier. I’d be lost without this video!! Thanks again!!
Thanks for that Jake! Yes I totally understand the difficulties in making the video. I’m a TV cameraman by trade, so I know your pain all to well! I really appreciate you taking time to make this and to respond to comments. You are making my pump rebuild project sooo much easier. I’d be lost without this video!! Thanks again!!
Thanks for that Jake! Yes I totally understand the difficulties in making the video. I’m a TV cameraman by trade, so I know your pain all to well! I really appreciate you taking time to make this and to respond to comments. You are making my pump rebuild project sooo much easier. I’d be lost without this video!! Thanks again!!
I know it's 3 months late, but for anyone else with this problem, you can put a strap wrench on the outside of the impeller while holding the motor shaft stationary.
The motor shaft has a straight line slut but it's too shallow to hold on with a screw driver when turning the impeller. Any other solution or tool to use to hold the shaft?
@g9351 hmm. Maybe take the cap off and use pliers to hold it. Also, are u turning it the correct way? It is threaded opposite direction then normal. So the right to loosen.