and one of the main question is: what is the distance of the copper ends separating from each other so that the sharkbite will fit in as it is suppose to? This video doesn't address that.
I literally just did this. I had zero skack and had to unscrew 10 brackets the length of my basement just to get a little wiggle room and still used a pex spacer.
@@MikeOrazzi Absolutely. I've been using them for years. In all of the installations I have done, only one failed, and that was because I forgot to check to see that the white insert was in place, which it wasn't.
@@GG1man I've never seen anyone mention until this guy, so thanks for the tip. I have to fix a shower with 3 faucets and not much room to work with behind a wall, so I think Sharkbites may make it a slightly better experience.
Never use a ball valve where it might be subject to freezing. When they are closed, the water inside the "ball" will expand and crack the fitting. Don't ask me how I know.
The original was soldered and he has a propane torch . Why not just solder another one in it would be so much easier LOL. Too many processes to achieve so little.
From the Sharkbite FAQ page: NOTE: The tube liner is necessary for use with PEX, HDPE or PE-RT Pipe. It is not required for copper or CPVC, however, it is not necessary to remove the tube liner from the fitting.
I just did this recently and I'd recommend you go with the new Sharkbite Max ball valves. It's worth spending a little more to have a stronger and longer lasting connection. I didn't have any issues with slack on my installation because I was replacing copper with pex, but as others gave noted; an extra Sharkbite connector and pex extension might be needed to get the slack needed to fit the valve between your pipe.
Please give tutorial on same sharkbite shut off valve to install on a wet line. Minimal flowing water. I live in a condo surrounded by units. The pipe will be turned off, water pressure is off, and water flow is still draining.
Showing how to remove a solder valve was informative - first 2.5 minutes. That said, this was not a “slip valve. Sharkbite Slip valves are longer and installed first past the insertion depth mark, e.g. for 1/2” the depth should be 1” (NOT 3/4” as shown) then, pushed back, using their tool (or something comparable) to the adjoining pipe depth mark. In reality, you will not have the “play” to push the adjoining pipe in place as presented in this clip, thus that’s the beauty of a slip valve.
As a plumber since 1991 I can honestly say I love when these get used by non plumbers. When they go away and something else in the area goes wrong I cut out those valves and put em in a bucket for emergencies only 😂
It’s all in the install. Like anything else, if it’s not installed correctly, it will fail. If installed property, all things being equal, these sharkbite fittings last forever.
@samsno3667 no dude, I take them from the apartment complex we are likely replumbing... I wouldn't pull one out if it had access and wasn't buried in a fucking wall or if it has nothing to do with the work provided... the fuckers will fail eventually and if I leave it I know it's just a coupling in the line waiting to be the first thing to leak... a dumbass might think it better to leave them in but I'm more often doing whoever (probably a fucking maintenance guy) a favor... so no, I'm not a fucking thief if that's what the fuck you're trying to imply.
@melvinmcgregor2673 no they don't.... every valve that ever was made eventually leaks at the packing nut or pressed in seal. There are no exceptions to that... all valves need access and that is so they can be exercised occasionally and eventually replaced or repaired once they leak... and no mechanical fitting with non metallic seals lasts forever... where do you get this information?
@@JoeA1974 everything being equal - it’s a figure of speech Joe. . Again, if installed correctly, they’ll last just as long as anything else - get it now?
![Replace Leaky SHUT-OFF VALVE With SHARKBITE Slip-In [EASY]](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
