I’ll have to go and look at that. Maybe the non-OEM ones don’t have any or it’s inadequate. That would definitely contribute to the shortened life I’ve seen first hand. Good catch!
I found this advice way too late: I bought a Amazon pump and installed it on a 2010. It worked fine for a while, then I started having intermittent overheating issues. I never suspected the pump because I bought a new one. I replaced all likely culprits with no solution found. My wife took the car to Phoenix and I had to get it towed back. The headgasket is blown at 85,000 miles. I redid the head and put everything back together. It still overheats. (I put the same water pump back in.) In desperation I dropped $400 on a new, genuine Toyota water pump from our local vulture dealership. The car runs fine now even when it's 111F outside. Even under heavy loads the temperature does not go over 195F. I tried to save $250 and wound up spending hundreds more, sustained frustration, many hours of trouble shooting and replacing the head gasket, and mental anguish. Don't go there.... IT IS NOT WORTH the apparent savings, at least in my case.
is using torque specs not a concern here? I noticed it said 19 for the longs 15 for shorts, to balance pressure on the gasket, do you just tighten it snug, and hope for no leaks otherwise?
@@majulenparah well, you should always tighten things to their specs, but if I’m being honest I don’t always (internal engine work and other things that have specific clearances- for sure). I’ve done about 6 of the Prius ones now and never had an issue with just hand torqued evenly. But, I could just be getting lucky.
I brought the cheapest one one amazon for $100 my water pump went bad at 150k. Dealership quote me $900 to do it i said hell know seen a video on RU-vid did it myself easy.
The original was making noise and eventually completely seized up. When I took it off, a part of the impeller had separated. The new, cheap one made noise from the second I out it on, and you could hear it struggling.
Maybe an hour if you’ve never done anything like it. Even then, it’s not hard. I’d say to those who’ve done something like this, 25 minutes is a good estimate.
If you do this swap on a 2016+ Prius, you have to loosen the passenger side motor mount and jack the engine up to get enough clearance to slide the water pump out.
@@riceburner4747 If I remember correctly, the engine mount is connected to a brace that’s bolted to and around the strut tower. Theres three big bolts holding it on. You can reach them all from the top.
Hi, changed water pump on 2018 Toyota Prius 100k mileage. Before changing the pump the car was losing coolant slightly but when I changed the water pump the car is basically losing coolant on daily basis. The car is in use all day long and next day it has to be topped up. Is it because I did not bleed it properly or some other issues? Thanks
It could be that it needs bled, but they say these cars are self-bleeding systems. You can try putting it in maintenance mode (how to do this is in a few of my videos), let it run with the coolant cap off and heat all the way on high temp and high fan. Once the thermostat opens, if it wasn’t already open, you’ll see coolant suck down just keep adding coolant slowly. This may take a few fills. But, if you’re losing coolant and you don’t notice and telltale signs of it coming back out of the reservoir cap (this can happen with air pockets/not being bled), then I’d look elsewhere. If you don’t see any spots under your car, I’d check your oil. If it looks milky, that is where it’s going and it’s time for a head gasket.
@@LoganDidItYT no visible leaks and no oil contamination either. However when heater starts inside the car it makes some sounds water flow and maybe air. And when opening the coolant tank cap in the morning it has air pressure. And thanks for quick reply.
I doubt it’ll be the same pimp, but, if you’re experiencing similar issues it could be a similar problem with your Nissan. Check the EGR system and even a cheap code reader can go a long way to help you figure out what’s going on.
Apologies if it's already been said. The Aisin branded pump uses the same casting for the case as the Toyota branded part then grind off the Toyota logo since they're not allowed to indicate it's an OEM part.
nice job. I own a Toyota Auris hybrid (in Europe the Corolla had a different name for 10 years or so) with the same drivetrain as the 2010-2015 Prius. Perfect car. I wonder if I should change the waterpump, now that it's still ok. My milege is 224.000 km or 140k miles. Thanks in advance
Thank you! The water pump is easy to do! Take the air box off, and then right below you’ll see the water pump. It’s a handful of bolts and the lower ones are just tricky to get to from the top (easier from under the car). But, other than that, it’s an easy job.
@@joskd8491 I wouldn’t unless you suspect it’s weak (it will make a whining noise). Or if you ever put any stop leak type product in your coolant- then yes.
@LoganDidItYT Not having a temp gauge doesn't help either. And sometimes when the temp warning light comes on it's too late - or people ignore it and think it'll be 'fine' - as a Toyota tech, Toyota owners are some of the most negligent and clueless car owners out there, bless their hearts :) In my Prius and my Land Rovers, I usually drive with a scantool running on my phone connected via Bluetooth obd plug to always display engine temps....
I’d go with the AISIN brand one you can find on Amazon (the same one I got). They are the ones who make them for Toyota so it’s the exact same one, just cheaper.
@@SIMPLEGUY423 it should last the rest of the life of the vehicle: AISIN is who makes them for Toyota, and they make a lot of parts for other cars and trucks too.
