They keep their products affordable. These seemingly easy and small mods actually add up to a lot of overhead when added to a production. Providing a solid platform for the user to make their own mods while providing an affordable product is imo of much greater importance than shipping out a 1000$ bulletproof tank of hardware. Their Warthog is legendary but it will never have the userbase their HOTAS X and t1600 have.
@@quickmadesim the bigger switch covers that you put on yes but the simple electronic switch that you need to pull could easily be implemented at a good price, a real shame they didnt do it
preorder 2 months ago still not here. And the AddOns are already realesed although they couldn't even manage to send all the throttles yet. Bad job from thrustmaster there
@@blazinthat7439 IT isnt available again! But I got one! At Thrustmaster Website! Im sorry for you! Have to wait! I recommend to Look every day at their Shop!
I don't have this but I admire the skill in doing it. And while it may be easier to just lift your wrist I can appreciate the desire for something more realistic or more workable especially when you have the skill, knowledge and tools to do it. Good job.
I think Thrustmaster charged too much for this quadrant, considering what it is made from and the simple manufacturing process. I bought this TCA and the two side controllers, (which are even more over priced). I felt like I had a 'senior moment' when I opened the boxes and realized that I should never have bought them in the first place. Anyway, as others said, for the amount of money TM charges for these quadrants, they should have used the 2-position toggle lock switches in the first place. Thanks for the video. BTW: As a machinist myself, (25+ years, 1st class/Job shop/Journeyman), I would like to suggest that you run your lathe's RPM at least twice, (if not 3-times) faster whenever you machine this kind of material. You could've avoided the "Game Over", (I liked that term, lol), when you were parting it off the workpiece. Also, you used carbide turning and part-off tools, which are never a good idea for soft materials, especially at low RPMs. Carbide is most proficient at high RPMs, light tool load (relatively speaking) and cut best when the there's a high degree of heat generated at the tool/workpiece contact point. To cut this kind of plastic, you should use sharp, high-speed tool steel cutters, with about a 1/32 to 1/16 tip radius. Finally, the cutting edge of the tools for your lathe, should be between .003" to .005" below centerline, (convert that for metric sizes). Too far below that, and the workpiece can ride up over the tool if machined w/o a live center, (or if it's chucked too far out), and too much above that centerline will result in surface tearing and short cutting tool life. Just some suggestions, which you can disregard or accept, it's up to you.😉 Rich
@@jungleboy1 Don't laugh! I have the Crosswind rudder pedals, which start at about $300 but I bought a good used pair for about $250. I had a Saitek rudder pedal set for years, before I bought the Crosswinds. I could tell the plastic in the Saitek set wasn't going to last much longer. I sold the Saitek rudder pedals because the Crosswinds are about the last pedals I'll ever need to buy. Fact is, WAYYY back when the Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS stick and throttle came out, I bought the system for $425 new. Now, you can't touch them for that. I still have and use the Warthog HOTAS system and with exception of one button, the system still works great. Those TFR pedals should last you forever, so yes, it's a lot for rudder pedals, but considering that they have to handle a percentage of your weight, they'll probably be the last thing you'll ever need to replace. Rich
Well spotted .Definitely an upgrade is needed.Sometime it might be a volontary omission to be able to release a version 2.0. Same strategy done by phone manufacturer.
Making the nylon bushings everything wow. You got crazy skill. I’m not even sure that’s what they’re called, I’m that clueless when it comes to this stuff.
I understood it because I know engineering but I just don’t have the tools otherwise I’d be able to do this following the vid really love this little modification
Dude, I understood fuck all. Love it!! Can't believe Thrustmaster didn't put more love into that product. I don't even want to buy this or the addons because of the lacking features like arm speed break and proper engine master switches
Thanks for the tutorial video. I am seeing the MCDU behind the throttle, are they for sale? From where can I buy one for the A32nx please? Thanks in advance.
That's why I only use them for light switches.. I'd rather make them reverse - disconnect for ENG RUN and connected for ENG OFF. thus a smll (even might be software caused) glitch to send the pluse to off will not cause a major problem inflight..... I'd better if both direction have a button, but I've already moved those "FIRE" buttons for TO/GA on the lever.
A small switch with a 6mm hole, there is a PCB underneath, and the pins need to be polished. I will replace it again in the next video for less shaking.
@@quickmadesim Nice idea. Is it the Salecom T80-T series switch with Manufacturer Ref. BLU 800-229 SPDT? I found it here www.banzaimusic.com/Salecom-SPDT-OO-LOCK.html The Thrustmaster switch hat would also fit?
Such a shame Thrustmaster messed up these buttons. Same for the IGN mode selector that doesn’t recognize the default state/Normal. Wouldn’t cost them the world.
Guess you mean in Msfs? It's more or less a software issue than a hardware issue. Should be fixable since the configuration of the quadrant is showing that the button is off. So basicly they need a toggle inset of a set state. Guess they will fix this.
I sent in a ticket to thrustmaster because I added the add ons to make it 3&4 ,told them cant bind the ING Norm mode .Its in MSFS but in the thrustmaster input set up I asume its number 6 not working .
All good, and i thought i'd have a go at this.............................. until the 'LATHE' came out. Yes everyone has a lathe handy in their garage/Shed/outbuilding. Never mind back to silly little unrealistic Thrustmaster engine switches.
Funny and so true when we realize we either don't have the tools, or the skill or the inclination to do something (or all three) and we just go back to what we have. It's the smartest thing to do. hehe.
I'm curious of the same thing. When I turn the tensioning screw, it made a click sound and now the screw is loose and won't stop. Now my lever can't hold its position at anywhere other than the detents. How do I fix this?
@@windshearahead7012 Yeahh well, I screwed it before reading the manual, so I didn't know.. I was expecting the quadrant to have a bottom out mechanism to protect this. But ehh... It is what it is, at least the detent gates are still working, so even if it's loose it's still usable. I'm planning to get another quadrant once the FBW A380X is released, then I'll just use the new one as the main Engine 1&2 (and definitely be more careful with the screw) while the old broken screw one will be my engine 3&4.
nice....someone needs to send this video to them. I mean come on right? If he can do it then why couldn't they make it like this in the first place. The same with the speed brakes
I don't have the money to buy it, but even if I had I wouldn't. I'm very disappointed by the quality of this thing, cheap plastic, cheap components and very different from the way the marketed it "licensed product" I don't know how Airbus allowed their name to be on this thing.
Yes, it does look more like the switches on the real Airbus. BUT, for all that work, it still doesn't require one to pull up and over a blocker like the real ones. I'll take the easy way out and just add the ENG label in miniature and call it good enough. Very interesting to watch you do all that work however.
How can you lose your warranty when an ultra-fast setting in FSUIPC (which we need anyway with other simulation software) allows you to have the "norm" status recognized in MSFS2020!
I sent in a ticket to thrustmaster because I added the add ons to make it 3&4 ,told them cant bind the ING Norm mode .Its in MSFS but in the thrustmaster input set up I asume its number 6 not working .
Hi, interesting work but the output does not provide a wow effect considering the time and effort. Not questioning the quality of the component or cap, but the way you need to pull the master switch to activate it is not really natural. Unless fixing the quadrant to a clamp or cockpit, I don't really see it work compared to what is avalable on the device. WOuld be intersting though to see if you can boost the friction!
@@bigkahuna2297 well real life you are in a plane, not your desktop chair. Not quetsioning the work, but the end result benefit vs potential other mods
Beautiful work of you have the time and the tools. But... they are start switches and that is all they will ever be. Totally not worth the effort for a mortal man. Perhaps TM will adopt your retrofit.
Thrustmaster Airbus series is just overrated IMO. Some of my friends on the A320, who were simmers too would say these look like what they would gift to their 5 year old nephew. Your mod should have come from the manufacturer given the price and hype, but you had to do it and way better than the OEM which is a shame for Thrustmaster.
Well, good luck to you and your friends finding an exact replica of A320 throttle quadrant, priced as low as even 5 times the price of this one :) Considering the functionality and build quality, it is well worth the price. And with proper detents and reversers, it has more value than any other low price range throttle quadrant.
Kinda missed the point, real Airbus aircraft you have to lift to switch on and off (safety), to keep pilots from accidentally shutting off fuel to the engines. The released throttle quadrants is a simple on off
![Replace the more realistic Thrustmaster TCA Airbus throttle engine switch [QuickMade]](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
