Thanks for making this excellent video, I have recently purchased this male plug and I wanted to check how to wire it, now thanks to you I know how to do it.
Hello thnkyou for making this video. i changed the plug of my tire inflator. Its 12 v. I put a 20 amp fuse in my plug but there is another fuse on the cable for 15 amps. It was the same fuse before i changed it too but it keeps going out almost instantly i turn on the machine.
@daveandsonyainmichigan first of all thankyou so much for replying. The previous one was broken but worked it If i just push it in. The difference was it was an 18 awg wire and a powerful 12v air compressor. First time the fuse in the plug blew as it comes with 5 amps. I put a 20 amp as I have another fuse on the line before it goes in to the compressor. It is a 15 amp automotive fuse. When I plugged it there were lights on the compressor but it blew as soon as I turned on the motor.
Thank you! Some people may prefer to use screw terminals and some may choose to solder. Do you have a name and part # of a screw terminal cigarette plug that you like to use?
@@daveandsonyainmichigan The male end plug plastic cover broke off. It looks untidy, but with plastic tape fixed allows it to work. Other than replacing the male end is there another way?
@WeRise445 if you are lucky and can find the exact same plug, you can change just the broken piece. If there is still enough structural support with the tape applied, leave it alone and call it good!
The problem I’m having with a heavy duty plug I bought for my eco flow is the Center pin is so strong it’s actualy backing itself out my socket and loosing contact
@@daveandsonyainmichigan it’s a brand new plug with 14awg wires, fires my diesel heater up perfectly fine I just noticed it creeps out ever so slightly. It seems it’s the center pin spring is too strong. My only worry is it coming out and loosing connection. I’m sure I can rig up something to keep it held in or wedge some card in there or something
@justadddirt my cigarette lighter plug was doing the same thing when I plugged it into my Bluetti. When I spread the side blades outward, it was a little tougher to insert and resisted getting pushed out by the strong center pin.
That is a very good question. There is a few ways and, in some cases, you can't tell. 1) The easiest is to pay attention to the way you removed the wires. Take a picture before removing the old wires. 2) Let's say the wire is cut. Hopefully there is a small piece of the colored insulation still on the wire. 3) Maybe on the remaining piece of wire, there is not insulation, or the insulation is the same color. Then if you are lucky the remaining wire is different lengths. Compare the lengths to determine which wire is which. 4) The Red or (+) positive wire will be soldered to the center pin (pin with the spring). 5) If all these fail, you may get lucky and have a connector on the other end of the wire identified as Positive (+) or Negative (-). There may be a small pictorial view showing (+) or (-), then you can use Voltmeter and check for continuity to trace the wire thru the connector. 6) You may need to open the device and see if the circuit board is labeled. 7) Some wires will be labeled a white strip or ribbing formed in the insulation. The manufacturer of that item would have all those identified the same polarity. But I can't say that there is a standard to which is which. So, I will refrain from saying which wire is which. 8) Sometimes you need to quess. You have a 50% chance to get it right. For the few times I guessed and got it wrong, then swapped the wires, I have never burnt anything up! I can't say you would be a lucky as myself.
Hello, at 5:25 time stamp, I explain the fuse ratings. The fuse rating is the amp listed on the fuse that the fuse will blow at to protect your item from burning up.
