Thank you for the excellent video, I was able to remove the cassette and place it on the new wheel quite quickly. BTW I did not have a "chain-whip" handy, so in order to loosen the nut I simply clamped the biggest sprocket with a vice-grip such that it jammed up against a spoke, and thus allowed me to loosen the nut with an adjustable wrench. Neither did I have a torque-measuring tool, so when the time came to put it all back together again, I tightened manually until I reached the sort of resistance I had encountered earlier when loosening.
I'm just changing my first chain and cassette after nearly 3,000 miles. Admittedly both are trashed, but if I changed mine every 200 miles, I would've gone through 15 sets. Had I changed my chain earlier, I might have saved the cassette. Who knows.
I'm just changing my first chain and cassette after nearly 3,000 miles. Admittedly both are trashed, but if I changed mine every 200 miles, I would've gone through 15 sets. Had I changed my chain earlier, I might have saved the cassette. Who knows.
May be worth noting that some chains, like the the Shimano HG80 (ar) which is the 11-32 version come in multiple parts like the higher end cassettes but the spacer is built into the larger sprocket. Excellent tutorial!
Great video! I'll say I got about 700 miles of hard riding before I noticed issues but the dude at the store was surprised that my chain didn't snap... Maybe 500 miles is a good point to change depending on your riding style
AISHAIKHU Lol I said the exact same thing when I heard that haha. I replace it like every 2000 miles (I am not even kidding) that's 10 TIMES difference!! Honestly I would have to replace it every 7-10 days if I listened to this advice, no way I am forking out that much money.
Thanks for the great video. I could not figure out the torque on the lock ring at first and it was not mentioned in the video so here's what I found. It was stamped on my old lock ring, torque 40nm. The new one may have it too but it is all black and could not tell, instead I looked at the spec sheet on the SRAM website for my cassette, again torque was 40nm.
Thanks for that reply. However, I would say 40 Nm as nm I would read as nanometer instead of Newton meter. Now I need to get such a "cassette removal tool" tomorrow morning.
Hmmm, I just tried this on a cassette & wheel that were both new earlier this year. I'd say about 6 months & maybe 700 miles ago so they're almost like new. Couldn't budge the lock nut with all my might! It's like those little grooves on it have locked into the corresponding grooves on the stack so tight it's never going to budge now. ANY advice would be welcome!
My LBS says every 2000 miles, although after about 350 I have a bent sprocket and some mushrooming on the sprocket teeth, so I am looking to replace/upgrade soon. Thanks for the video!
Hey there, great video. I have a question. I removed my mtb wheel because I noticed it makes a little noise when peddaling so I wanted to check what was the noise. I've noticed that the cassette is moving slightly, left and right. Is it normal to do that? Does it need to be tighten a bit or it needs to be changed? I have the bike for 1 and half years, so its fairly new. I've been riding it in ruff terrain in the mountains. I want to fix this myself.
what type of lube are you using? a good chain lube helps reduce noise. also, depending on the noise, your derailluer might not be alined correctly. if you here a clicking noise, I would investigate this.
Hey, thanks for the post but I have a followup question? what about replacing the derailleur cables? Is cable stretch an issue and should they routinely be replaced? Thanks man!!!
my gear 8 on my sram cassette is worn and is slipping, can I just replace the sprocket? as the rest of the cassette is fine as most of the time the bike is in gear 7/8. would this be recommended or should i just replace the entire cassette?
My bike is running a 7 speed cassette at the rear which I am finding insufficient for the road riding I am doing, is it possible to remove the smallest cog (gear 7) and simply replace it with an even smaller one from say an 8 speed set?
Either your pedal(s) are hitting your frame, this can be caused by a bent crank arm, or your bottom bracket is shot. A BB can cause a knocking sound when they get old and are in need of replacement.
Nice. My cassette seam not to be center for some reason when I spingarn the wheel it kind wiggles but it not lose ,bearings look ok ,what could it be ,thanks
If somebody could please answer this, that would be great. I was recently riding my mountain bike and as I was pulling away from a stop sign, the sprocket clicked and snapped to where if I peddled, it wouldn't put any push into the rear tire. We took the tire off but I do not have this tool to take the sprocket off. But is it the sprocket that broke? Or is it more extensive?
Daniel Sangston Take it to a bike shop, they will be able to diagnose what is wrong and what needs to be replaced. They will also replace everything that needs to be replaced at your request
Mean while a family member borrowed my bike, they tried to replace the bearings (on the rear wheel) ,,, after i got it back, i noticed that the wheel was not centered. The wheel waved around and some times it wound hot the frame. If i try to put the wheel on the center, the axle won't equally rest on the dropouts. How is this fixed? I know there's a word for that process. I just can't remember it.
would a wobbly rear cassette cause a knocking sound which apears to be coming from the bracket at the pedals? I noticed a knocking sound coming from around the pedals when i noticed the rear cassette seemed lose. An ideas people? im new to bikes
It's going to depend on the brand. Usually, it's printed on the retaining ring. (the ring with the ripples that you torque down.) if not, it should be listed online or with the instructions that came with it. but again, it's going to be brand specific.
I have a racer bike (drop handlebars) and the sprocket twists off, the grooves inside are like a gun barrel and not straight like in this video, does anyone know the name of this type of sprocket cos i want to change it. thanks
The higher the number of sprockets in a cassette, the thinner each one gets. so yes, you can put a 10 speed cassette on your hub. but you will need a 10 speed chain as well. so the overall height of all casettes is the same, they just make the parts smaller to cram more in as the number gets higher.
@JKW40 Ok well what do you consider hard riding? Because i ride 2-3 times a week XC and race and my cassette is fine. Ive been going for thousands of miles. Sure it needs to be cleaned often but no replaced. Would be waste of money for me.
@9000nickhtube I completely agree with you... I ride my chain/cassette until it's worn so much, that the chain starts jumping.. I mean, sure, maybe that increases the damage to the chainset, but cost wise it's still much cheaper to replace them all together, instead of changing the cassette and chain every 200 miles... At least that's how i think..
no, the spacing adjustment is inside the cassette itself. the plastic spacers of a 10 speed cassette are slimmer than a 9 speed. So long as you don't mix them up, (just put the new 9 speed parts on) you are good to go!
@9000nickhtube haha, probably that, but i dont agree that is has to be replaced all the time as long as you're maintaining it, and keeping it in good working order.
A lot of us in agreement at the 200 miles thing. I can't afford one of these every few weeks! Maybe he rides through a lot of sand storms. If you lube your parts and keep adjustment tip top, you will be fine. Mine started slipping, but only after chain replacement and three years of ownership. All sorted now though. Good clip though...
I got 12 years use out of my 8 speed cassette ,the chain did snap once other than that still runs fine .....i bet i done 10s of thousands of miles in that time...lol great video though.....
i was riding my mountain bike and i tried to go up the back porch ramp and i was at an angle and the derailleur popped off and i put it back together and now when i try to pedel it is stuck please help i do not know what to do!
200 miles?That's rediculous.I only change it if something happens to the one I have.Which is about 5000 miles later.My bike hauls ass.But how do I change the thing underneath?And what is that called?
I race XC, but it's very hard and techincal XC. I ride many sections like I would ride a DH track, so I put a lot of ware on my components. Yes, if you take care of your bike your drivetrain can last a lot longer then 200 miles! But it's not worh it to me to try and push it and break a chain in the middle of a race. But if you can push it farther without damage- great!
I feel that I should mention that not all cassettes are interchangeable. Shimano Uniglide and Hyperglide are different in that the latter has a keyway, and the former does not.
paul smith Loads of WD40. Use a long pipe that will fit over the wrench to give you more strength. I have been there once and that worked for me atleast.
I'd just like to comment on why we said to change your cassette every 200 miles. there are many factors that go into this. depending on the brand, quality, and type of use, it is very possible to go hundreds of more miles on one cassette. I personally race in time trial cross country races, and put a lot of stress on my cassettes. I've snapped two in one year before. changing every 200 miles is simply a safety measure.
You can buy a generic chain whip for $7 at pricepoint(dot)com. Get one. It's impossible to get the cassette off (without damaging it) without one. Or, if you're handy, you can make a chain whip out of some one chain and a short length of aluminum. just drill holes and put the chain pins through.
It depends on what model cassette it is. Here's the thing- for lower end cassettes, you can't buy just one sprocket. you have to buy the entire package. what I would do, is buy a new one, and take the old one apart and keep the old sprockets. next time you need a replacement or a last minute fix, you'll have parts.
no, you do not need to replace the cables. for brand new cables, they will stretch a little, but then they will settle down. so, after installing new cables, you'll need to adjust them again after a little while. then they will be good. good rule ofthumb, dont' install new cables right before a big race! do it in the off season and get them dialed in. they should last a long time.
