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One of these days I'll get a win...
My Standard Workware:
Carhartt Pants: amzn.to/2HAwrPK
Carhartt Shorts: amzn.to/2FKRT46
White Tee ("Stay Tucked"): amzn.to/2DuoARu
Muck Boots: amzn.to/2HBWplQ
Leather Boots: amzn.to/2pbV8vd
Holster: amzn.to/2HAU8Y7
Sheffield Pocket Knife: amzn.to/2penG6g
Today was maybe that day. But not before I had put in a call to a mechanic buddy that I may need him to come make me look stupid. That dang pressed on nose bearing was rough. I guess I could see a silver lining in that it MAKES you pull it apart now and then. I'm considering going to split blades. Then I'd never have to pull this apart again. But that also means that after a couple years I may never be able to if I have to!
Perhaps there is a better design altogether out there, but for now we get it done. Slide the outside blade all the way over, and the inside blade over, allowing room to swing a hammer and pop that plate from the inside. Prying, as the manual stated, just wasn't getting it done. I was about to get a smoke wrench!
One other thing to consider, that I haven't done but recently thought of. I'm debating setting my inside blade about 1/4" in from the zero fence, so one side of the board always gets shaved. From what I can tell, the blade currently sits flush with fence, so a straight edged board rides the fence but doesn't touch the inside blade. This seems fine, unless you've got boards coming off with a wavy edge. Then it's nice to go ahead and clean that edge up. As long as the outside blade is still calibrated, then the adjustment dial should still work. Just a thought.
2 окт 2024
