The Bob Ross of Motorcycles! Your videos are great and very helpful. Always nice to see realistic videos. Not everything fits or goes together perfectly or smoothly. So it's relieving to see the struggle and you overcoming those hiccups so calmly and rationally. Thanks Mike. Keep the videos coming.
I’m planning to start putting together my 1950 Panhead chopper together this winter. Came across your videos maybe a month or so ago and have watched almost all of them! I’ve learned so much already and have placed certain ones in my motorcycle maintenance playlist so I can easily go back to them when I need them! Thanks for all the hard work you put into these videos, we all really appreciate them!
I recently came across your videos and I'm refreshing myself before putting my panhead chopper back together. 99 percent of people (myself included) are not this calm when working on difficult parts. You're truly the Bob Ross of harley-davidson my friend.
Yes absolutely great. As said below its never plain sailing when you need it to be. I'll be taking a look at mine when I'm back this weekend. Been doing some work on my pan with shovel heads recently. CV Carb :) life is easy haha
Welcome to my world. This is how every project goes with me it seems. The difference between you and I is you take it all in stride where I would have already had 2 strokes haha.
Excellent Video! I’m doing a seal on my 1950FL and am wondering what slide hammer kit you are using. Most I see are for cars and bigger jobs and I’m looking for a smaller with an appropriate hook size.
@@pacificmike9501 Mike I've got a Shovelhead that when you take the clutch out there is another 9/16 or something in there, does it have to be removed before I remove the clutch cage?
I've learned a lot from your videos .I have a sizable playlist called ( of course ) "mikes Garage " that I refer to when the need arises thank you very much Mr. Mike. Greatly appreciated.✌
С виду мотоцикл очень похож на URAL!но на наших Уралах "мотор" расположение цилиндров по горизонтали) Очень интересно смотреть ваши выпуски про Харлей Дэвидсон !!!Класс
@@pacificmike9501 Bought my 48 pan back in early 80's. I am putting a belt drive on it now so I ordered the super nut I saw in your video. I guess if the super nut stops the seep, than I don't need the deflector. Thanks for what you do.
I just did this job on my 1974 Superglide, it still leaks. The original H-D manual said to install the seal with the lip towards the transmission, I took this as opposite of your video. I'm gonna redo it the way your video instructs. Thanks again!
Hi mike im doing the seal but my trans is a 78. I didn’t realise the spacer from 77 to 79 is different in that it doesn’t have the locking tab until I took mine apart. The replacement spacer I purchased has the notch in it and locking tab, is it ok to use this and instal the locking tab. I can’t find the 77 79 spacer in stock anywhere and would have to get it shipped from overseas and probably pay more in shipping then the part is worth.
I understand. But they actually fit differently. You need to use the correct seal and spacer. I used to go through it with my 77. Then, I installed a Baker 6 speed. Harley made some changes in the seventies that were rather confusing. They still do constant changes and you have to be very explicit when sourcing parts.
@@pacificmike9501 appreciate the response Mike. I’ve bit the bullet on the shipping cost and ordered the correct part. I’d rather wait a few weeks for it to arrive and go down the road knowing I did the job right.
The breather originally huffed it's air (and a positive drip oil system) into the primary chaincase. Now running a primary belt drive, so the drip is turned off and the breather hose has been rerouted out from behind the inner primary cover.
You took the cork out from between the spacer and seal in the beginning of the video then put the cork seal behind the spacer when installing. Does a cork seal go behind the spacer?
Good morning Mike, My name is Lenny Kaluzny and I have a 1964 FLH, The generator that is on the bike is a fan cooled one and do not have any info on that generator with the fan? my question is where could I look for info on that generator and there is also a condensor attatched to the field post, this bike is new to mee and trying to understand how things are installed on it' thank you
That is a Police generator and the condenser is for static elimination on the radio. You need a Harley Davidson Factory Service Manual. It has full instructions and diagrams. Tedd Cycle (V-Twin) should have it for you. All of the aftermarket shops deal with them. Or, you could find it online.
@@pacificmike9501 well between your dull drills and using a dent puller to try to remove a seal guess it's time for me to unsubscribe not to mention your lame reply of oh well if you where a solid dude but your not!! I'd show you the easy way to pull that seal out and even teach you how to sharpen them drills
Sorry. I just try to be real. I'm sorry I offended you. And, I actually mean that. Maybe I don't always have a good day. I do sharpen drills and I do appreciate advice. Take care.
Harleys are kinda like airplanes, they're designed to leak some, otherwise how you supposed to know when to add more oil? If it's not leaking, you're out of oil.
What direction did you place the double lip seal onto the transmission? With the grooves in or out? They're not actually grooves in the seal but appear to have curved lines on one side and a lip facing out on the other side. I couldn't see which direction from your video and there is another youtuber out there who shows the seal to go in with the grooves facing towards the outside. Thanks.
This is a 37-76 type trans. The seal is shrouded in sheet metal. If it is a faithful copy of the original seal, then the metal is made of two pieces and the seam goes toward the trans. If it is a later copy of the seal, one side is open and goes toward the trans. If you're lucky, you have a "Genuine James" sesl which is a faithful copy of the original (which was produced by Chicago Rawhide).
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike. I realize the explanation of the direction of the seal is hard to replicate. I watched one other video involving Double Lip Seals after watching yours, downloaded both, reviewed them and hope I chose the correct position of the seal. Close ups would be appreciated, but I understand the thought process and time constraints. I value your productions. I have always worked on my own bike following the Manual but also relied on a trusted advisor who passed a few years ago. I am no longer able to ride but want to set the bike up, a 76 Glide, for my son before my shift is over. You are, unequivocally the best and I especially appreciate that you are answering the call of the wild.
After replacing trans seal on my 1974 FXE not sure which way the sprocket goes back on. It’s flat on on side with an offset on the other. Can you tell me which side goes out please?
Hi Mike.. Panhead here from the pinelands of South Jersey I'm also a bike mechanic I got a 58 pan and I'm going to put a belt primary like yours I need to shut the chain oiler off with the screw turned in does some oil still come out because I seen you have a hose coming from the chain oiler running along frame do you have it just dumping onto the ground or do you have it running onto your drive chain ... Mike I came across your videos today really good videos I am also a old school mechanic you do really good work I come across tuff seals can I put my two cents in before start drilling I put a dab of grease on the drill bit keeps the shavings and filings in order out of your case keep up the awesome videos bro
Cool. Thank you. That tube is the breather for the engine. Turning off the screw to the oiler, stops the oil. But, the engine has to breathe. Oil from the engine will come out of the hose in a slight mist. Hence, the hose needs to be routed out of the primary. If the engine ever wet sumps, the hose must be routed to the great outdoors.
Mike, I watched all of your video on the trans-seal replacement and I can't for the life of me get the trans mainshaft drive sprocket off. I got the nut off, with the correct tool/socket breaker bar and stepped plastic wedge, without any issue but the sprocket won't budge. I think this is the first time the primary was off because the oil line had a crimped hose clamp. I have a 1971 FL. Should I use a gear puller or pull the trans and bring it to my local indy? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Got it off! Prayed to the Harley Gods, little bit of heat, some friendly taps with a small brass hammer and some dirty talk and by God she loosened up. :)
Nice work! Did the original spacer have the key to lock it into the splines? Can you just retrofit with a later model spacer? I have a "75 and wouldn't mind getting rid of the key, I think it might seal better without the gap on the spacer for the key.
I have a 1948 Panhead 4 speed and have the transmission ready to install a new main gear drive spacer and seal. The new gear drive spacer is identical to the old one but is slightly tighter and will have to be tapped on the shaft. Is this correct or should it slide onto the shaft and be able to turn to float side to side??
Hi Mike, another great video, I am doing this right now to my 76 FLH.... I hate to nit pick, but I have too... I'm sorry.... but I noticed when you removed the old parts the seal came out first followed by the cork and then the spacer... when you put it all back together, you inserted the cork first, and then the spacer which was inside the seal.... I am confused now, my manual seems to indicate that the way to re-assemble is the way you originally removed all the parts.... i.e. spacer, cork, and finally the seal... Please advise... I love your videos and you are my go to source for how to fix my bike... thanx in advance!!! Tommy D.
Thank you. I don't think the factory would argue this one. The cork goes in first. You'll find it easier to place the spacer into the seal and then press the seal into the case with the spacer already centered. Just my opinion, but I think you'll like it.
Hay man it's been A min but I've got this 2001 scout Indian when I started it it's got a knock in the primary you think something came lose in it thanks YRTM.....,
Mike you put the cork in the wrong order relative to the removal portion. You removes the cork before removing the spacer which means the cork is between the seal and the spacer, or am I confused.
Mike, the attachment or end of the slide hammer that screws into the seal, is that homemade? I'm thinking that's a bearing slide hammer. also any tips on removing the engine sprocket seal on a 58FL. like always, the most informative videos, thx
That screw attachment came with the slidehammer as part of the set. It is a Snap-On slidehammer. I've had it for at least thirty years.58 sprocket shaft seal is a screw in and check your service manual. Probably the 59-69 service manual would be your best bet. I haven't done one of those in quite a while. But, it screws in. 55-68 is when that particular seal was used. Buy a Colony unit. And, you're more than welcome.
Hey mike I just attempted replacing my seal I got the seal out but my roller bearings started falling out what should I do next? My belt drive has also been going side to side my front pulley has excessive wear on the teeth if you have the time I greatly appreciate your help thank you! I Always enjoy learning from you
It sounds like you've got some serious stuff going on here. What condition are those bearing rollers in? It sounds like you're missing some things in that bearing set. Look at your service manual. Make sure everything that belongs with that bearing is there. What year and model are we dealing with here?
@@pacificmike9501 my trans is I believe mid 70s I believe I haven’t date code checked it but 59 panhead motor with 1.5 belt drive clutch has 5 adjusting nuts
@@pacificmike9501 and I didn’t get a good look I haven’t pulled anything else out I pulled the collar for the seal but when I did I noticed 5 of the rollers just fell out
Man, do I feel better. I thought you were talking about the bearing on your motor shaft. Sounds like it's probably time to rebuild your trans. You're going to want a good fit on your main drive gear bearing. What's the rest of the trans like? This is the time of the year to do it.
Hi Mike, My 46 EL Knucklehead has a trans leak on both sides by the looks. I have bought a James gasket set but notice there is no new spacer you say should be replaced or small L shaped part in there. Do I buy these separately, I think I have found the correct spacer from Deluxe HD Restos. As I'm here in Australia I would like to order pretty much everything my mechanic will need as we wont get them here overnight should he require them. Watching the video I do not think there are any other parts I need. Bike changes gears nice but just leaks too much. Any other advise would be greatly appreciated. Much respect Dom.
Sounds like you've got it covered. James makes a nice trans seal and it comes with the cork ring and "L" key. Check in the V-Twin (Tedd Cycle) catalog, classic section. And yes, you definitely need to replace the spacer with the main drive seal at the same time.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks very much Mike, just one more query on it as it needs gaskets on the kicker side also. Will I need any thing for the right side that is not in the gasket set. Thanks for the heads up, much appreciated.
The only gasket on the right side of the trans is the kicker cover gasket. There is a flat seal that goes into the bushings on the kicker shaft. It looks like an O-ring with a flat profile.
Hi Mike, what is the tool that you used to seat the seal? Where can I get one? As always, thanks for your videos and your old school, tried and trued advice!
Mike, you are great man! is it possible for someone to have forgotten the small seal on the main shaft ? I am working on a 76 4 speed and it appears there is no seal to remove, if there is it is shoved 1/8 -3/16 back in there and cant seem to find anything to pull out just figured I would ask Thanks for your videos saved me too many times to count
@@pacificmike9501 is it possible to I stall 2 small seals on there? Lime will it allow me to install one if there actually is one in there? I don't believe there is one but maybe it is shoved back in there?
Somehow this is a faulty design as I understand it. It can't be completely sealed because there is no seal or O-ring between the spacer and the mainshaft. Shouldn't you use Siliokn between the spacer and the shaft to prevent oil from traveling between them? Spacers rotate with gear shafts.
It's an antiquated design. There are little tricks here and there. The later four speed main drive gear has a seal between it and the mainshaft. Sealant on the back side of the sprocket can help. A "supernut" sprocket nut may or may not fit in your application. But, no matter how you do it, it's temporary and you'll be doing it again in the "not so distant" future.
Terrific as always- Tell me Mike do you have a video on how to change out the front engine seal on a panhead-? Mine is leaking like a beast into my primary. I thought you did, but I cant find it. Cheers!
I am assuming it has a seal, haven't opened the primary/ pulled the sprocket yet to see but its leaking engine oil out of the primary ( Which has a karata belt drive hiding in it.)
alright mike first off great video love to see them... second what kind of information do you have on that slide hammer tip you got, I cant seem to find one anywhere.
Mine came with the slidehammer. It is a Snap-On tool. It's a small slidehammer and it came with it's hardware and attachments, one of which, was that screw bit that's theaded on one end to attach it to the tool. I've had it for probably 25 years or so. You may be able to buy that piece separately.
Matco has them. I bought mine off the truck probably twenty five years ago,for about twenty bucks. Mine has a replaceable sheet metal screw at the end. I bought a box of the screws from Grainger. Because you will need to replace the screw. One of the best tools I have, I use it all the time!
Mike, a follow up question on the 58 FL engine sprocket shaft seal removal , my understanding it is a left handed thread, i've purchased a removal socket tool but this seal isn't moving and the two holes are getting damaged, is there any tips for removal, is there something i'm missing, i know you stated you haven't done one in quite a while but any help is much appreciated...I wished your shop was closer to me here in Temecula, Ca.
You've asked a reasonable question. I hate to admit it, but, there are things we do when no one is looking. In a perfect world, that tool would remove at it to death.part just as it was designed to do. But when it won't, someone is going to have to hold their breath and get creative. I say "hold their breath," because it gets a little scary. I would probably go at one of those holes very carefully, with a punch and hammer. The idea is to "drift" it loose, not beat it to death. You're going to replace it anyway. The point is to not damage the case. Sorry, but I am retired. I work on my stuff at home. Hopefully, I'll meet you at a show or the Long Beach Swap Meet.
Invaluable content so glad its available, thanks Mike. My questions is to what torque does the chain sprocket nut need to be tightened? I've scoured my manual and could not find a procedure, simply reverse of disassembly, in that case it would be an 1/2" impact. In the torque values at the end of the chapter it indicates 105-120ft/lbs for Late 1978-early 1983 (I have a 1980 FXWG). Once tightened to that torque spec the sprocket becomes difficult to turn by hand, although the Mainshaft spins freely. Is this normal, in your video the spocket seems to spin fairly easily before you removed the super nut? Many thanks, Todd Beach Santa Barbara, Ca
I believe you're reading the torque spec for the motor sprocket, rather than the trans sprocket. I don't know of a spec for the trans sprocket nut. Now, make sure that your parts are in order. Glue yourself to the parts manual. Things changed in those late Shovehead years. Be sure you have the right sprocket. Some of those late ones used a spacer behind the sprocket. The worst part is, some of the years are interupted with changes. Use your best logic, your vin number and compare parts.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks for the prompt response, yep you were right, was able to consult an image in a manual that had an exploded diagram that had a bit better image than my Clymer, had a spacer in the wrong position (the one to shim out the sprocket).
Great work Mike! I have a leaky engine sprocket shaft seal on a 62 Pan. What is your recommendation on type of seal and do you have any tricks of the trade i.e. sealant? It's a belt drive primary.
Use a new seal and a new spacer. Remember, it is a "left-hand" thread. Too much pressure in the lower end, sometimes caused by wear in the upper end, also causes leaks.
Stop that you'll burn the bms up in your drill battery . That is exactly why it shuts down when out of power and to keep giving it trigger you'll ruin your battery
@@pacificmike9501 ya I get it . I use the same drills ryobi green best buy for the money but I learned from experience when you blow one of those batteries it costs more for a new battery than to buy a whole new drill with charger and battery
Hi Mike. I have 2 questions. My tranny is -78, Torrington Bearing, and it don't have the cork seal, when I take it a part, is that right or not? Its also fitted with Ray's o-rings spacer, would you say its enough to change the o-ring then?
Most catalogs use Harley's diagrams to show the assemblies. Have a look, V-Twin, Drag Specialties. You'll see and check the parts list for the year groups. The cork seal was used earlier. I don't know what "Ray's O-rings spacer" is.
I just pulled my seal out on my 4 speed and have a few questions. I have a gap in the bearings (it looks like a few are missing) should there be any gaps? Or should it be tight enough that you can’t fit any more rollers in there? I have no clue who did the last seal but I’m concerned they did a poor job. Thank you for your videos!
You need to look at the proper year service manual. That bearing must be fitted properly. You didn't say, but it is obviously a pre 77 trans (loose roller bearings). That is something that must be fitted properly and you are a few rollers short and the race must be in smooth excellent condition and the right size rollers fitted into place.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you!!! I’m not sure of the year, my dad said the bike was a 58, but it’s turning out to be a basket case of random stuff, it does have loose rollers. I’ll pull a few rollers out and measure them to get the right size, thank you again for the info!
Never figured it out. Probably has to do with time on the kickstand, verses time on the road, temperature, humidity. I replace them when they get to the point of really leaking badly. In the old days, things really didn't seal up real well for real long. And, it didn't matter much. We have better seals now, better materials and so on, but we still shouldn't be too critical.
Thanks for this, Mike. I did it this weekend without a problem, but do have one question. I didn't drain the tranny, and although the seal went in and seals nicely on the new spacer, I didn't replace the sprocket, etc. and oil drained out through the one of the notches cut into the threads onto which the 'super nut' goes. Is that normal? What ordinarily keeps the tranny oil from coming out that way?
@@pacificmike9501 - great, thanks! Also - the PBI sprocket I bought is slightly dished or concave on one side. Does that go toward the tranny or facing out, please?
I had a hell of a time removing mine off my 73 . Watching this brought back memories of a language that came out of me that I never knew I possessed. Lol
Mike different subject where does your engine vent hose end, as a chain oiler? I was wondering what you fastened it too on the bike. Just converted my 62 to a belt
I don't use it as a chain oiler. I turn off the oiler screw on the oil pump. Then, I run the hose out behind the inner primary of the bike, along the lower frame rail and out.
@@pacificmike9501 Hi Mike, a bit late with the question but I have a 46 Knuckle and I have terminated my chain oiler similar to yours but I still get oil running out of the hose. Do you get any oil spilling out onto the tire or is there something I have overlooked which could cause the oil leak
Hey old buddy I wanted to put in my two cents it probably might be some help 1975 FLH help having transmission leaks you might want to touch on you there's a screw that vents the transmission however on mine the guy must have went outside on a break chugged a six-pack of beer and smoke two joints came back off brake woke up in a brand new world forgot to drill the vent screw so I drilled it out problem solved hello what was that guy thinking about Great information thank you for all your videos and your input and time you are a great American
Hi Mike, I noticed the red fluid you use?. I have a ratchet top 4 speed and use HD 50/50w. It looks like your using a trans fluid?. What fluid do you use for that trans please?.
Back in the day, Harley recommended the motor oil used in the motor should be used in the transmission on all Big Twins. That was a long time ago. Since then, the advancements in lubrications have been huge. Today, I use 85/140 gear oil manufactured for use in motorcycle transmissions. There are several great quality brands out there, and, without conducting a real study, I couldn't say which is the best. Sportsters need different specifications because the translube and the primary share a combined system.
Sorry Mike you are very dedicated .... but if you use the correct Tools the Seal assembly will perfectly safe fit in a few minutes. Excuse me, but I call this botchery.
