Wanted to drop a quick note to let you know I really appreciate you taking the time to record, edit and post these videos. Undoubtedly doing so adds hours to the time it takes to complete your projects. Your videos have allowed me to change out the transmission on my daughters Ford Escape, as well as the transmission on my Edge saving me many thousands of dollars in repairs. Thank you!!! MW
I just watched the video very helpful I was quoted over $1,000 to replace it by a Certified mechanic then after seeing the video and checking what the parts costs I'm going to save five to $600 in labor after trying and seeing you try to get that rack-and-pinion out at first I said no then you took off the subframe and everything was right there so I'm going to try to tackle it myself with my two boys and daughter thanks for that video wish me luck
Turn an 8 hour repair into a 1hr repair. Take the 2 star nuts off the steering spiral gear box ( top assembly that sticks out of rack that attaches to steering arm) pops right out. You just shaved off 5". Now slide out old rack. Detach spiral gear assembly from new rack. Slide new rack in and reattach spiral gear box with 2 star nuts and bobs your uncle!
OMG, thank you so much for this video. I haven’t watched it yet but I’ve had this problem forever, but never took the project on. I had the problem you had but fixed it by switching to valvoline maxlife atf. 50k miles later the play in the rack itself is a safety concern for me. The play in the wheel is pretty bad, car doesn’t track straight cornering is poor, cv axle is starting to complain on rare occasions. I’ve got over 250k miles on my edge and hope you get even more out of yours.
Yes the rack really was not all that bad once I firgured out exactly how to tackle it . It seemed like alot of work but was not too difficult. One thing I had found was there was no information anywhere on the rack replacement atleast that I came across. Anyways figured this video could help the next person get it done quicker. This rack and pinion was leaking massive amounts of fluid and what I found was the pump had also burned out because of it. I have another video on replacing the power steering pump. Thank you for the feedback and thanks for watching
s33therfan Do you think there are any adjustments I can make to the rack housing to stabilize the rack? I’m going to take a closer look to see if the movement isn’t coming from an external bushing. If not I’ll use your video to remove the sub frame and rack.
The rack itself would not be moving as its bolted down and loctited pretty good. Now the inner or outer tie rods could have slack and youd feel that in the steering. Theres other parts like the stabilizer links stablizer bushings , control arms and ball joints that could be loose. Alot of times the rattling comes from the stabilzer links. Thanks again
You know if you removed the stylized link you can rotate the torsion bar over then side rack out... you may require to lower the rear sub fram volts to give more wiggle room you just may need to keep rotating rack to clear the steel lines
@@s33therfan we did it today, went better than I expected. Had the same problem with the stabilizer links. I also managed to snap one of the bolts that the sub frame uses to mount to the body, have a dealer tracking one down for me. One of my lines is leaking too, but that's an easy fix in comparison to today
I am about to try and slide it out. just got to disconnect it from the steering now and im gonna see if it’s possible without dropping the frame myself😂
Hi there ..when u remove the power steering return line do u need to drop anything to remove it? I been looking and cant seem to find they back spot where it goes....
No problem. The return line usually connects with a 3/8 rubber line/metal line over on the passenger front of the subframe in 2 places . You will remove a clamp and push the hoses off and have a drip pan for some of the power steering fluid. This is usually the the case on most because you have a line going into the cooler and other returning. With these disconnected it will drop down . Excellent question and thank you for watching.
Leave it to Ford to make this complicated shit. I've owned 2 fords And I have had to work on both of them along with a few more. I will never touch a Ford again. Something as easy as a fuel pump turned into special tools, an overhead lift and several hours. My Mopar was 2 bolts and about 10 minutes. I never went back.
Ya this is a good video I have to do one my self shops wanting 1500 to change it from what it looks like to me we should of been able to remove the sway bar an that should give it enough room to get out but meh
Thats what I was hoping for myself but then everything was too tight . It seems like alot dropping that subframe but its not bad on the plus side. The job goes real easy once its down. Another thing that works well is a movers dolly( $11 at harbor freight) , once dropped down on that it rolls out easy . Best of luck on how you decide to tackle it. Thank you for watching and the great feedback.
Very good possibility . You can check for fluid leakage at the boots , also you can check the tie rods inner and outer for slack. If the rack is not leaking and seems to steer smoothly , you may just need to replace the inner and outer tie rods. Thanks for watching.
Strut bearings is what causes that noise. They are mounted on top of the strut. They fill with dirt and grit causing rough conditions. The pop/clunk is the spring popping
Thank you very much for the feedback , it is greatly appreciated. This information can helps others determine if they want to tackle this project themselves. I usually do not have quotes because I do all the work myself , however I get a lot of comments asking what the job would cost. I would encourage others to share this information as well , thanks again.
