Thanks for the vid. Not a difficult thing to do but my son's Crosstrek had a clunk from that rear bushing being totally broken at 185k miles. We thought it was the shock top mount, so replaced the shock assemblies complete, but the clunk remained. I turned the wheel and my son said "I know what it is" and I came to look and sure enough, the bushing was toast. Ordered using your links. Hope you get a cut on those.
Thanks for the very informative and helpful video! You make things very simple and easy to understand. My Crosstrek is the same year, same mileage, and same deterioration on the bushings. Just ordered my control arms and will be doing this job soon before a long cross country road trip! Subscribed!
You can remove the ball joint from the knuckle easy peasy like in about 10 seconds if you go in from the top down with an air hammer just put your impact surface of the air hammer on top of the control arm a few inches from the ball joint and hit it about 5 seconds with a good air hammer, it'll come out like gravy, even in the rust belt called Chicago.... Ohh but be sure to wear hearing protection or keep your head out of the wheel well when air hammering the noise is extremely loud to the point you can feel the hammer pressure on your ear drums... NOT GOOD for your hearing.
Amazing video I’ve seen a lot of control arm videos this by far is the best for someone trying it out! Great tip on the penetrating spray! Will definitely be hitting it a week before and then a couple days before just to avoid any nonsense 😂
This is a great step by step. I am going to do this tomorrow and Im sure I will be replaying this on many occasions. Is it essential to torque the suspension at the end, Im taking it for a professional wheel alignment after I replace both control arms anyway?
Be sure to torque it as they won't torque those components, normally, during an alignment. Alternatively, you can ask the alignment shop to go over those components for you.
First off, we all want to know why Allana isn't rocking some Pat's swag! Allana come onnnnnn!!!!!! I kid. Another brilliant video of things I absolutely know I have know business doing myself!.
I appreciate the video, great camera work especially compared to mine! But a fancy watch while working? And never have I ever seen someone use a cheater so often! If you worked on GM you'd have that 18mm! Now I have good idea on the process, thanks!
Thanks for the great video, it's very helpful! I'm planning on performing same job on my daughter's 2014 and curious how the replacement Moog parts are holding up. Do you have any updates?
This is the problem with aftermarket LCAs. They are not to Subaru specs exactly and today those Moog LCAs are manufactured to worse tolerances. I only use oem parts on my Subaru.
How would you recommend separating the ball joint on a Crosstrek with a 1.5" strut spacer lift? The control arm is pushed all the way down giving no room to knock it out with wood and hammer.
@@PatsGarageOnline I just ended up using the chisel and jack on the bottom rotor to lift it while banging. It came out but my cv axle also popped out along with it... 😩
I would set aside an entire day to do this if you had no mechanical experience. That way you can take your time and Google things to help you get it done right. I've never replaced control arms on anything before so it wasn't a complicated job tut it took a few hours for me to do it with the right tools and mechanical experience.
I have a 2002 Land Cruiser and a 2006 Tribeca. The featherweight Tribeca suspension is frightening. The hubs failed at 80k. The LCA’s failed at 120k. I don’t believe Subaru is the quality, safety brand they go on about. A vehicle that makes you remove the front bumper to replace headlights is absurd. The clips positioned with impossibly short wires to quick blow H7 halogen bulbs. I added LEDs, extended the wires and added decoders. I also removed the three hidden screws under the headlights so the lights enclosures can be removed with two bolts. Great video but under engineered. IMO.
I had these control arms replaced on my 14 Crosstrek with the moog parts. Now it’s squeeking and groaning front front left. Especially when the incline changes or I’m turning wheel. What could be the issue? We’re they not installed properly? I looked underneath and it all looks fine and bolts are tight
Thank you so much for this video, it walked me through the whole process. The one thing I initially didn't follow was to sand (dremel) out the ball joint housing - I spent a lot of time trying to get it to seat before I went back and did that. The second one even went in with a mallet. Also, at one point I popped out the CV axle and the ball joint was about one inch off of the housing, this video helped to get it back in place. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PKQ2OWh9kcE.html
@Buck Yabeno I was thinking the same thing but was hesitant to ask. I hope it was for the best for both of you Pat. Good luck on your new path and wherever it may take you.
It's my understanding that Rebecca decided to get into Lamborghinis (which we all know exclusively never touch race tracks), and Pat decided track days are better suited to driver development, so Allana came into the Picture to give him lessons? (I kiiiiiiid)
Really, only saw her in a couple of episodes but she seemed really sweet and smart. Anyways just want you to be happy but please don’t do like other channels that use woman to get guys to watch the vids. I love the straight to the point serious videos that you do. We just got to help you get more views. Love from Japan!
I’m doing the rear upper control arm on the same year, do you know what torque specs for the 2 bolt that attaches to the rear subframe? great video by the way
