Times have changed. Did a big renovation job like this about 30 years ago in the US, no plastic sheets, no zippers, no respirators, literally threw all the demo materials off the roof or out the windows and cleaned it up later. and coughed like crazy from the dust and crap. You guys are a lot smarter today than we were, cheers to you, something to be said for not breathing in all that stuff.
It's great! My shed has been completed and it turned out nice looking and sturdy and it is way better than the sheds that many of my neighbors had put up. Of course, I'm pleased with the outcome and this Ryan's ru-vid.comUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 Plans was extremely useful to me as a guide.
Heatpumps are the future for most climate zones. If you can move the attic insulation off of the ceiling and into the roof structure, essentially turning your attic into a conditioned space, your heatpump will be even more efficient. Would be a good thing to do when you're replacing the roof. Insulation between the rafters, and rigid insulation boards on top of the roof deck, then add your waterproofing, then airgap (strapping, or mesh product), then metal roof, and you're golden.
Yes its a good thing. However you need to connect the roof to the wall to air seal which is difficult. Its a lot easier if the wall is also sheathed and you can run that sheathing up to the roof sheathing. Also need to install vapor port at the ridge line.
@@cmmartti so whats your air sealing layer? No point insulating and leaking all the warm air out. Hence the use of sheathing is recommended. The weight isn't much. But of couse the issue is how do you tie the walls and gables to the roof so its air tight.
@@AdamLevins1 this is basically just a big minisplit. instead just a wallunit you have a unit in the attic that does the same thing. the absolute peak in efficeincy is when you use a air-water heat pump that heat up underfloor heating. you can almost double the efficiency with that system.
Hey Scott nice work with the Heatpump, I work in HVAC industry but in Australia, that seems about right in price. Obviously, this depends on amounts of rooms/bedrooms and the number of zones control you have in the system. Heatpump is definitely the future in terms of efficiency, we always remind our consumers it is roughly 3-6 times (300%-600%) more efficient than any other heat source or cooling. without getting all technical, even in cold weather the condenser unit (the outdoor unit) actually absorbs hot air even below 0 degree Celsius temp due to the refrigerant nature and releases hot air into the indoor unit. In Aus we commonly call it 'Air conditioning' but it's the same system.
About getting rid of the fireplace: Many households in Germany bought fireplaces in the last year, because cost for other means of heating (oil, electricity & especially gas) has gone way up about more than 400% in some instances. So that's why some people might be shocked about the removal
I paid about the same as that this year in Australia but that price included a MyPlace controller with individual room temperature control for 7 rooms. With the controller you don't need to heat (or cool) the entire house, you only heat the rooms you want. Great videos, keep them coming!
That's very cheap, I got multiple quotes in Vic for room controlled heat pump system in a 150m2 4 bedroom house and cheapest was 22k most expensive was 33k but the average was 26k
Man you got a good deal. We looked into an option that would be similar to controlling each room temp. It would of been done using dampers, estimated at $350 extra per room. We decided it wasn’t needed for our (relatively small) house. We use the whole house everyday anyway, but it’s a great idea if you don’t.
Rosie, any chance you could share the name of the company you went with? Also a big thanks to Scott for the incredible content and creating these discussion
In Northern New England USA most people have a wood stove. In my house we use wood as our primary heat, but do have air source heat pumps as a secondary source. Our power supply is often interupted during winter storms, so having the wood heat is a good idea. You are right in terms of efficiciency heat pumps are the most efficient, only using electricity to transfer heat, not creating heat. Love the videos as allways. Keep up the good work. I will say I miss your Aukland co-workers!
I'm liking what ur doing Scott. My wife and I went a different way. Heating wise, 1960s house fully insulated top, bottom and walls and new double glazed windows, Installed a single heat pump and kept the fireplace too. My wife likes the heat from the fireplace as do I. The heatpump is mainly to cool the house in summer as it rarely came on this winter seeing as the fireplace did a great job. House is ventilated via smartvent as well so that transfers heat throughout. It's a warm efficient house.
It seems a few people in the comments think you should have kept your fireplace. The point those people are missing is that you are not allowed to have an old fireplace in Nelson because of the air pollution. I loved what you said about people saying, "You're crazy to get rid of your fireplace. If the world goes upside down and there's no electricity, you won't have any heating!" Welcome to Nelson, Scott. Lotsa people here think the end of the world is coming.
he also wont have hot water as its a continuous flow it needs electricity to spark and stay running for temperature control. Also log fires aren't great for your health the smoke particles hang around for up to 3 days and increase your chance of smoke related cancer alot. so i fully support his decision to remove it.
The Green commies have taken over the asylum. All are heavily invested in the "climate change" scam. I'll die before I let anyone take my wood stove away from me. Mental is the key part of environmentalist. Stay strong, masculine and free. No to the convid and climate change scams, 🔨🌲🇮🇪🇮🇪
I paid AUD$22K for a heat pump system recently (5bed house) to replace a (dead) ducted gas heater and evap cooler - just got our first quarterly electricity and gas bill - I actually came out $100 ahead! Given that gas prices are going up, and I have solar - it seemed like the right thing to do. Also double glazed the south side of the house (saving up to do the rest) - all in all well worth it - this winter has been a lot more comfortable.
Glad it was you taking that chimney down and not me! I've had to break out concrete before and it was a LOT of hard work! Looking good now though. Will be good to see the finished results.
My wife walked in just as you were eating those amazing looking toasties and asked me what we should do for dinner. I just pointed at the screen. looks like it's toasties for dinner :P
Question for you Scott? Can you say how much you would of charge for dismanteling the chimney if you were doing it for a client? Like how many hours, cost for the garbage bin, fan rantal and pipes etc etc. Thanks in advance.
Like this one that is combination of reinforced sections and cast? 2 days 2 guys work plus equipment and removal. Not including any remedial wall and roof construction. Should be around $3K
That's actually a pretty decent price for a whole house unit. Heat pumps are for sure the future of home heating and cooling IMHO. Your house will look amazing when done
Hi Scott, love your videos. I don't know if you watch the Essential Craftsman but he always says to keep up the good work. You are doing an awesome job with the remodel of your house. Keep up the good work!
Congrats on going full circle on your videos (#360). Always enjoy the info, the personality, laid back feel and the music. It's lunchtime as I write this and wow but I'd love one of Jess' toastie sandwiches' right now too.
Sounds like a pretty good price for a ducted heat pump - ours was closer to 16k! While the power bill does go up a bit in winter, bear in mind there will be times during the year when you're not really using it at all.
Looks like scott only has 1 zone, did you have 2 zones for your ducted at that price? Very handy having the bedrooms on 1 temp and living/dining on another
@@AdamLevins1 Multi-head systems are pretty rare in Australia. It's cheaper to put in multiple stand alone mini-splits then a multi-head system with a single outdoor unit in 99% of cases, then if you do end up in one of those situations it might be cheaper or make more sense to get a multi-head you are usually approaching the price of ducted and would do that instead.
@@Wheeznbreezn With the mini split system each room has its own internal unit. It’s mounted on the wall up high. So yeah, mine is a four zone system. Each unit has its own remote
$7,500 NZD 8kw ducted heat pump (4 room) in 2019 in AKL. 2 story house and that heats and cools the upstairs very well. Two split units downstairs covers the lounges. Great hint for kiwi's, we use Electric Kiwi power company that gives one hour if iffpeak power a day for free. We choose 6am to 7am and have all the heat pumps come on then, wake up to a nice and toasty house for free, and basically hardly ever need to trun the heat on in the evenings, only the real cold nights.
Yes, something we want to look into eventually. We still have our hot water run by gas so we want to change that too. We get great all-day sun on our roof.
@@ScottBrownCarpentry Hi Scott I have gas hot water what will need replacing soom why may I ask would you go away from gas? I am not a strong beleiver in solar in NZ we get no government subsidy and isn't worth connecting to grid so big battery bank would be only option. By the time it's paid for its self its time to start replacing
Revisiting the root cause is the lax building codes in Aus/NZ previously. Consequently we freezing in winter and horribly hot houses in summer. So glad we are giving insulation the attention it deserves. Less heating and cooling costs
Removing that chimney was very safe and methodical. The only thing you may consider next time is using throw-away paper overalls with a hood then that dust doesn't get in your hair or your ears. Well done...
Scott… amazing as always. I wouldn’t worry about not having a chimney, new builds in the UK haven’t had chimneys for about 20yrs. We just have radiators (wet central heating). If people want fires they then have to fit external twin walled flue. Great vid. Love the fan to move dust.
You will love the heat pump. I'm in US mid/south-east, so a bit different, but I think similar in a way, because we still get cold winters with super hot summers. Heat pump we got two years ago is 3 tonnes (my house is a bit bigger than yours and has garage embedded, so needs a big unit, but comparing to old oil unit, it is way more efficient. It moves air likes crazy and in combination with solar, it is pretty much a no-brainer.
I going to tear out my chimney and fireplace in the coming months. I've done a couple in the past, I felt your pain during that horrible job. Excellent plan you have! I'm putting in 2 mini-split heat pumps instead of my gas wall heater.
I DIY’d an 18kbtu (ducted) mini split for under $3000 USD. Saved a lot, and learned a lot. One third the costs went toward ductwork. Works well to cool half a 1600 square foot house. But the old gas furnace was still more cost effective for heating. These mini split units use r410A - which is being phased out. Lately it has become as expensive as freon to recharge. I’m hoping for a brighter future where solar panels store energy in a new type of battery that filters CO2 as a byproduct of discharging. Then that CO2 gets used (when not for bubbly beverages) to top off an HVAC that uses CO2 as a coolant, instead of explosive gasses. How useful could that be if everyone sequestered CO2 in their home, saving it as a resource.
Hey mate good watch. I think its not a bad price for the heat pump, but saying that I spent around 50k nzd on a heating system. Im a kiwi in Sweden. We converted from electric radiators to what they call Rock heating (bore in the ground down 150+m, to a heat pump then to water radiators) But also has cut the cost of heating our house by around 60% ( also heats our hot water). We get down to -25 in winter. Keep the videos coming they are great.
Great use of a heat pump - the key is that you put 1Kw of electricity into the system and it delivers you 3Kw of heating (whereas just heating a 1Kw electric fire would just deliver you 1Kw.) Using the 'heat' (temp difference) you are extracting/capturing that heat in a very efficient way to heat the house and getting a 3 for 1! To reduce costs further decide if you are happy with 18 degrees (minimum 'recommended') and everything you are doing (insulation, glazing etc) is only going to make this better as your heat-up time will be faster, and heat loss way less. Modern, responsible home ownership! Love your videos (I'm a UK architect.)
Scott, I paid more for my ductless heat pump system. One main unit with two indoor heads, about $10K USD. Still worth it for combined heating and cooling, and I live way up in NW US (Washington State) where it almost always never gets too cold or too hot.
Our single heat pump installed in our lounge was $3500 NZD. Our woodsman fireplace was $4800 NZD and another $700 for a through wall heat transfer that blows the heat down the hallway. So $9k for hearing the lounge area. The rest of the house is hated indirectly by radiance. $13k to have every room indirectly heated isn’t bad. A friend has a modern new build with ducted heat pump and their power consumption over winter was only $35 a month as once the house is up to temp it takes very little to maintain it at that level.
I live in southern, Southern California. Central HVAC is standard and essential for us. We added Solar and now have reduced the electric bill to less than $100 per month during the hottest months. The roof panels also shade the house. The panels payed for themselves in under two years.
Highly recommend a ducted heatpump. I’m surprised at your power bill though jumping by 100$. My wife and I are based in Dunedin, got a rianni ducted heatpump installed and we saw a jump of about $20 from using our existing single room heatpump. About 12k to buy and install (removed broken fireplace as well). Winter power bill is about 230$ summer is around 100$ (off during the day). We have a 3 bedroom, insulated walls but single glazing (getting there). Make sure fan is on auto, then the system controls the consistent temperature. Love the videos, keep them up!
@@aussiegruber86 - run it at 21c / during winter we turn it up to 22c at night. Summer it’s not generally on unless we have a cold night of like 10 degrees then it sits on 20c overnight.
Hey Scott, 2 inch air gap under roof sheathing so intake soffit air can flow to ridge vent to keep roof from over heating and adding stryofoam as insulation, I used 6 inches of the blue colour, 2inches per sheet x's 3 sheets . It turned out to be a cathedral ceiling of the porch and the difference in comfort is amazing. You want your HVAC system to not be in an overheated air space so it will not take that heat surrounding it and heating the air conditioned air that you want in the Summer months. It is a common error to put an HVAC in a very hot attic. Not a smart Idea. Insulate the roof underside of your attic to make it a comfortable living space and your HVAC will not have to work as hard and you will also see that your energy bill will be reduced. I look forward to an episode where you will show how to insulate the roof sheathing with that 2 inch air space. Trust me, I have done it and it is AMAZINGLY comfortable in the heat of our Summers here in Atlantic Canada. Keep up the good work to you both from East Canada.
We’ve got a similar sized house to yours Scott, the cost for us is about $60/month. We’re fully insulated and double glazed. I remember being in London paying £200 a month on gas! Heat pumps are great and you’ll get air conditioning in the summer! 😊
This is all awesome content but in watching other videos about windows efficiencies and stuff, any window no matter the rating equates to having, basically, a hole in your wall. Double glazing, triple, glazing, blah blah. It doesn’t matter cuz they won’t work after ten years. Brent Hull has a wonderful video on 100 year windows you must watch. All that said, will you be adding an interconnect for a dual fuel power generator for those days without power now that you don’t have a chimney? After the hard freeze here in Houston I got a genny and made it run on natural gas and it runs the whole house. 10000 watts. Keep the content coming. Love the show. Smoko time for me now. 😂
I have a chimney to take apart some day, but we've got 3 stories, so I have no idea how (or if that plan will fly) I'm going to do that from the basement up (prioritizing living space needs). I would certainly do it in a similar fashion, though! Our heat pump set up is 5 mini-split units and 2 exterior units. Installed by the previous owner in 2018/19, cost about $30,000 CDN. Roughly 7% of the home's value at the time. And she did all the windows, too. Pretty sweet deal we got, mostly.
I used the zip wall system when I was renovating my kitchen. Mounted A fan near the window. Did all my demo one section at a time. Parked my truck outside and loaded each section. Did three sections. Vacummed each section and mopped. There stood three bare walls. Attacked each section. Electrical next. Mounted new switch boxes. Next each section. I put up new drywall called green board for mold resistant. Cut my windows out with a zip saw for drywall. Vacuumed each section as I went. Next was the plastering. Taped and plastered each section. I had a corner wall by our fridge. I repaired it too. Then came the paint. Wife chose the color. Wiped walls down and started painting. 2 days later. I received my upper wall kitchen cabinets. I finally took my zip wall system down. Put up my ledger board for wall cabinets. Mounted my new kitchen hood. Mounted my 3 wall cabinets and removed my ledger. Next was to finish my outlets for my lights and switches and GFCI. Do to some errors on delivery off my lower cabinets. I had to wait 3.5 weeks. But that gave me time to finish or touch up remained work. Bottom cabinets finally arrived. Drove to the store. Got my orders loaded up. 4th week. I finally started installing lower cabinets. During the week while we were waiting for cabinets to arrive. Our fridge and stove failed. Luckily we found a set and got them installed. Lower cabinets finally installed. Next counter tops? After a few days of decisions by my wife. She settled on tile counter tops. Bought all of the materials I needed. 2 weeks of final work including working my regular schedule. I was done. I've never attempted to do anything of this level before. Lots of planning and work by myself. I finished. I am 68 yrs old and I'm feeling good. I still need to finish some plumbing.. My son lives 1.5 hours away. Plus he has a job too. But he did stop by to help wire my new shed. ❤
Hi Scotty & Jess we have gas heaters in our home its piped along the road. Nice and clean no mess. We spent $11,000 on the two heaters floor and roof insulated. Being an old house 1922 build its not insulated in the walls. We can have that done for around $7000 but no double glazing. Thanks for a great episode love your work always.
Love watching your videos. Would recommend next time to use a disposable suit so you don't put all the cement dust through the washing machine when you wash your overalls/clothes
We have the exact ducted system by Mitsubishi and also a Lossnay unit (part of Mitsubishi) which circulates the fresh air and stale air into the ducted system. Helps circulate fresh air from the outside and is a cheap way of cooling the house in the warmer months without switching to cooling mode. House no longer smells stale either. Look into it Scott!
Cut through the mortar joints with a TCT recip saw blade like the Bosch S1543HM, (excellent for toothing out brickwork). Way less dust than the disc cutter!
We run a inverters as well and we run the all year round. Temp set to 21°C and auto. Keeps us warm and dry all year. The only time our systems are turned off is when we do our full house clean every 2 months or so. It is less hassle than burning wood.
G,day Scott and Jess from Sydney Australia. I think you missed some ceiling insulation, every bit helps reduce heat loss. I do like the new heat pump system all the same. 🌏🦉
I just got an air-to-water heat pump. Had a gas heater before, and like this setup much better. Cost around €20,000 which is also just under 2% of the house price. I live in Denmark
Helped a mate take out a 2 storey chimney years ago, we built a frame at the base and used chain blocks with steel bar through the block to hold it then broke it up from the bottom a meter at a time then lowered it down and repeated the process.
13 & 1/2 G bangers sounds pretty good for ducted heat pump system. Having a house that is all warm (and always warm) is somewhat of a novelty in NZ - crazy huh!!! I agree with your thought that if power is no longer available for your heat source then sh!t has got pretty real and you will have bigger problems. For us (at Lyford) we can’t rely on power as we have too many power cuts (especially in winter) - often for a day or more. We rely heavily on our log fire (helps we have 3 Ha of bush from which we can extract free firewood). We are looking at building here and hope to have a heat recovery system in a passive house and a smallish log fire. It is the most efficient way for new builds (not realistic for old houses with poor thermals). Capital cost is about the same as ducted heat pump, but would operate 100% off grid.
Oh and smart move putting washing machine on concrete - I was all busy posting a comment to you to make sure you did put washing machine on concrete when you said that’s what you are doing.
Heat pump is by design as efficient as it can get. Technology Connections has a fantastic video or videos explaining how and why every house with very minimal exceptions should be heat pump.
Lol, "what if the world goes upside down". Watching this as a Swede right now is funny. Power for 3-5 kr per kWh,(0.5-0.8nzd) Probably even more in winter. Im getting a fireplace this year because of that 😂 used to be 0.3kr. 10 times more expensive right now.
Hi Scott, love all your videos. I did a similar job on my first home. Me, this Kiwi DIYer who doesn't do things by the book, it's nice to know now how it should have been done haha. I removed my fireplace from the bottom...😅
Kind of happy and sorry at the same time to see an older fella still on the tools. Not a fan of air source heat pumps. But I'm in Croatia, where it can be -10 c in winter. Had to work in a house with it during winter, never felt warm.
Heating - as a Canadian I will say this - everyone in the house needs a winter grade sleeping bag for short duration heat loss during a ice storm - for everything else you need a Honda generator that will power your essentials like your refrigerator, freezer etc! Beyond that there is something called a public shelter. 😊
Zip wall is a great product, is s what I use for dust protection here in the states. It is unnecessarily expensive for mostly plastic. It is great and very easy to set up though. You can put up a whole dust wall up to 12 feet high by yourself in a matter of minutes. Its legit. Glad that you can get it way over and way down there. Like dyown undah? Just kidding, I know you kiwis don't necessarily like to be confused for Australians.
We split ours to be more effective with smaller units. So have 2 HVAC systems in the ceiling. One purely for the rooms and the other for the living/dining areas. Paid 7k per unit. Works out the same. But the overall running costs are less. Adds about 40 per month over winter.
Sounds like a great deal compared to cost where I am. I went with gas heat / outdoor compressor for cooling only. I like the warmer air from the gas, and part of the year it is too cold for a heat pump to operate efficiently. Here, gas is also cheaper than electricity.
I spent about $6500 AUD for my 14kw heat pump about 4 yrs ago. Plus another thousand or so for ducting, vents grills ect, and installed it all myself. Just had the fridgey do the gas lines. Seen it done plenty enough times on site to give it a shot. They are the most efficient option, just a matter of keeping the heat in my 1960's fibro shack 🙄. Improving it bit by bit.
I replaced my gas heaters (vented , non vented) with hot water radiator central heating system. 9 radiators and a gas combi boiler to provide continuous hot water and heating. Each radiator has its own thermostat and central smart programmable timer. Heats the house in no time and silent, no draughts and still works 100% when room doors are closed. Ducted systems need air returns to get circulation. Total cost was the same as your system. 1960's brick house, roof and underfloor insulation. Did have a polythene moisture barrier installed on the ground under the house about 10 years ago. was sooo cheap to have done. Stopping the damp rising from the ground to/through the floor made a huge difference. Much easier to heat a dry house than a damp one, regardless of the heat source. Only problem is that the native timber floor boards have shrunk and some creaks have resulted. As I don't have bare floors, its not a problem.
Since you're on the south island power is abundant. But you could complement with solar but that again is expensive. We have gas ducted and it is in the same range monthly cost. Wonderful heat though. I am contemplating to add a small heat pump to utilize the power from our solar. Especially for cooling in summer.
I would definitely go with a heap pump as well. But use a ground-to-water type instead and use in-floor heating (Hydronic). Both the things increase efficiency a little and are just nicer to live with. That seems to be a really good price. Here in Scandinavia they are in such high demand that they cost double. Due to a lack of qualified installers and the component shortage
@@steventhomas9461 Nope. No radiators. Just tubes in the floor. It's much nicer to walk on. You can have a lower room temp but still feel warm and the in floor heating requires a much lower water temp because of the large surface area. Meaning your heatpump doesn't have to heat the water up to as high a temperature. This raises your COP factor massively
For example. A Panasonic AQUAREA. Looking at the datasheet. When going from 55C to 35C water in the house heating system. The COP factor goes from 3,07 to 4,85. That is a massive difference.
We did a retrofit in my sisters house. Same thing as Scotts house. Wooden floors and a crawlspace. Was hard work, but it really paid off. Could remove the radiators and got a ton of insulation in there afterwards
Radiant floor heating is pretty efficient way. But makes more sense when building a new house. As in renovation one would need to take up all the floors. I have 12kW in my house but I'm not restricted with lot size like Scott because in my case I needed about 900m (close to 1000m2 space) of piping in ground for the heatpump. Machine itself costs about 9K another 5K goes for the accessories. 3,5K for laying down the ground piping. But then one would need in house radiant floors.
I am 100% for having wood burners, but in saying that I have endless amounts of firewood trees on my property so it only takes a bit of grunt work...which is free...Plus I really enjoy cutting wood.
So, on your last video I commented on how effective a shop vac can be at capturing dust. That, um, doesn't really apply here LOL. Very well done on the tent & fan.
We installed an air/water heat pump a few month ago in Sweden, it cost about 21k NZD which is about 2% of the house cost of a house where I live in Sweden. Compared to heating with gas it should save about us about 30-50% on the heating cost. Around 6 years ROI.
I paid $12,600 in 2020 for the same system in Taupo. So with inflation your 13.5k is right on point. Also look into solar, it pairs quite nicely with a heat pump. Getting one put in next month. We should half our power bill with an 8kw system on a north facing roof. Pays back in 9 years. Some of the banks are doing good low or no interest loans for this stuff now.
I was dead keen for that Lossnay system but the quoted price around the same as what you paid put me off. I went with a 8kw heating AP71 heatpump in a central location for $5k with the outside unit out the back of the house. It’s over spec’d for the room but it has brought up the temp up in the whole house. The house is a fully insulated 1940s weatherboard. Power bill has only gone up $25 a month. A good compromise in the end.
$7800 US is pretty good. I just had one installed in our house and it was $13000 US. It’s a retro fit and a big house. I think it’s a 3 ton unit. Worth every penny.
Ducted is less invasive, but high wall units connected to single or multi-split compressors is more efficient. I have 7 highwall units on 4 compressors and only need to heat/cool the rooms I need, plus the minimum power draw is less on smaller units. Last month power was $235 and several units are on 24*7 - in Auckland.
Scott. ignore the end of days worriers. In your case as local regulation make using a log burner difficult I would have gone in a full electric direction myself. The only valid point the end of days bleating has, is that multiple sources of energy creation can provide more flexibility when circumstances change, which make using your prime source of heating in your case difficult. There are a wide range of options and considerations though which you should look into that will help drive your energy costs down. In your situation there are a number of ways you could go to deal with your prime outgoing be cost of electric energy. 1 as you are doing insolate, its has the biggest effect on your energy usage (for heat and cooling your home) and is in an older house like your the easiest change to make. 2 Install a battery bank. This would deal with two prime issues. One regardless of whether you have solar or not you would be able to buy energy at night when its cheap (if those options are available from your energy supplier in your area), this would have the effect of reducing the cost of running your heat pump down to a tariff based on night rates in the UK for example a day rate is some where around 57p in the day per kW and 7p per kW at night. the pain here is the up front cost of the batteries and the install. Two it will soften power outages or brown outs as with an AC install your house runs off the batteries regardless of whether there is power coming in from the grid. 3 add Solar panels, you are in a sunny zone, so solar panels on your roof areas would generate power. Generating your own power means you can buy less from the grid. combining Solar with batteries means you generate power when the sun is out and by it when the sun is not out (like during the winter), the net affect over a 12 month period is less power purchasing so less money spent on grid power. 3 Smart water cylinders. water is an energy source so heating it can be a significate cost if you are not smart about it. However newer cylinders can do a number of things to reduce heating of water costs. One they can be used as a battery. you buy energy to heat your water at night and use it during the day, Two some cylinders can be used with Solar, so you heat the water when the sun is out for free, and only heat the water off power when the sun is not out reducing the cost of heating water. Cylinders combined with Solar can be dump loads, meaning you use the sun to charge your battery bank and other day use items first, and only when those are full and you have excess power generation does the water cylinder heat up. Some modern cylinders can be used as heat exchangers for heat pumps. what that means is that you can use excess heat from the water cylinder and push that into the heat pump, or vise versa. Adding a heat exchanger to your heat pump means the external fan box works less hard or often, which drives down the cost of powering it. 4 Change your power use habits, in that you use power when you generate it for free and less of it when you buy it in. The whole subject is extensive and there is a lot that can be gone through. But the point is if you learn what is best for your own local circumstances and make changes (over time) you can easily drive the cost of energy down to acceptably low amounts. As you admit you know little on the subject, I would in your position use your RU-vid powers to engage an energy expert and design a system which you can implement over time that deals with your energy challenges I hope that helps. Take Care D
3years ago it was 10k for a ducted system for my home here in Southland, but regrettably went for 2x heatpumps and a heat transfer to utilize exess heat from the fire. Looking back the ducted system would of been worth it 👌
Yes I would pay that much, would love more info on where you got it. I'm in the Bay of Plenty and when I looked online I only found them in the 20-30 thousand price range. I also removed my fireplace because the price of firewood is ridiculous.
Geological Thermopumps is popular here in Sweden. Since they are far more efficient in keeping the house warm cheap. But it does require a house ,as you say, well insulated.
