Thanks Chad! I'll be posting the last one hopefully tomorrow. I wore out the hard drive on the workstation I use to edit videos and I am just getting it rebuilt... on SSD so hopefully it will be faster.. I don't think you will have any trouble, if you have basic home improvement skills.... Thanks again.
When the compressor starts *in-rush current* is about 5 amps, running it pulls around 2-3 amps. With lead-acid batteries that were 2 years old I could go 2 days between charges.
I know it's been a while since you did this install but I have a question. You ran the black plumbing pipe around and in front of the furnace. How do you remove the furnace when the time comes? Doesn't in slide out toward the front of the fridge. Or does it side out to the outside of the coach? If you had left the 1 1/2 or 2" abs pipe behind the refigerator it would have only required that the frig stick out 2 more inches, right? Or am I overlooking something. I'm not sure, I ask because we have a single door 10 cubic foot Dometic which if it develops a major problem we already have a 10 cubic ft residential magic chef that should slide in with no adjustments( If it fits through the door, which it should). After watching your roof replacement videos I am now in the early stages of a new roof.(I have the 2 rear most 4x8 sheets of the roofing plywood unscrewed and the back third of the termination bars unscrewed but I haven't pulled them off yet. Wrestling with trying to decide whether to stop were I'm at plus 1 more 4x8 sheet in front of the rear air(the rear a.c. had leaked at the mounting lag bolts and rotted the wood beside the ac) or do the whole roof. Didn't work on it today after my lower back protested me being hunched over removing gobs of screws yesterday. I bought a back brace today and am feeling much better. Our coach is the 2003 Newmar 3804(39') I left you a question about the a.c. mounting being outside the a.c. gasket. You have some mad skills T.R. Thanks, sorry for the run-on comment. Lol
No worries on the length of your comments Rick. I would not try and seam the rubber roof, its a recipe for a future leak in my opinion. I took a lot of Naproxen (aleve) when I was working on my roof. Yea I was sore every morning from stooping and crawling around on my knees all day! If you can swing it, and I know it is a ton of work, I would replace the whole roof...as a buyer if I saw a seam across the roof I would be very hesitant to buy a coach with a seam like that. But there are products like the eternabond tape that would probably do a really good job of sealing the seam, but again if I was buying a coach I would not buy one with a seam across the roof. On the fridge, I didn't want it sticking out any further than necessary and as you saw it barely extends in front of the trim. The issue was not how far out it stuck, it was the height I needed. I didn't have the height I needed to maintain the spacing from the top of the furnace to the bottom of the shelve and have the fridge fit in the hole. I figured that if I had to replace the furnace I would just cut and replace the drain line again. It's not that much work even if I do loath plumbing.
@@trbowlin I had an idea that if you had to you could cut the abs and reassemble it using no-hubs rubber boots. Thanks for your thoughts and advice and encouragement. I took today off the roof too. Do you think 15/32"(1/2") plywood would be too thick to conform to the curve of the roof. The original is 7mm(a little thicker than 1/4") and not very substantial. I found a lumber yard with good quality A/C grade plywood at a reasonable price. Newmar wants 116.55 per sheet delivered for 9mm(a little under 3/8"). I can get the 1/2(15/32) A/C grade for 31.00. They also have 3/8" A/C for 24.41. Thanks
1/2" will conform just fine. The 'bow' of the roof is not that much so just screwing off one edge then standing on the other will bend it to shape and then screw it off, then screw off the middle. I went with 3/8 on mine but in hindsight I should have used 1/2.
Can you please tell share the model number thanks, i keep looking just can't find it like you said to look for it in the comments on all the 6 videos you have just couldn't find it i would appreciate if you share the model number 😊 thanks again, hope to hear ftom you soon 😊
I've had the same problem. I have a video I am about to post on the subject. In short I bungee the freezer door and I tie a tea towel (dish towel) between the handles when I am moving. Mostly Ive had problems with windy roads like last week driving into Deadwood, SD. Watch for my update, I hope to get it posted today.
I used Velcro strapping. Put a strap anchor on each side of the fridge doors, used a pop rivet to make a loop in the Velcro strap, and then fastened the two straps together over the doors. Works great. I used 3/16 pop rivets, heated an old drill bit, melted a hole through the Velcro strap, installed the pop rivet using a washer on the back side, cut the excess off the pop rivet with a cut off blade, and then peened the rivet down and wrapped it in tape. When you get done the Velcro goes across each other and makes a tight lock.
What is the chances your rolling through Oregon and want to help a guy make a few bucks doing this with me on a 2003 Beaver 40' with a new to me NEVERCOLD 1200, I was just quoted 2400 bucks to do the new cooling unit at the local Rv place. Floored obviously and this would cost me the same only we'd knock it out and I'd be super upgraded?!! Just a thought and BTW new to your channel and loving it!! Thank you:)
@@trbowlin Thanks man.. I have so little time, ability yes! I'm definitely considering. I'll research my inverter but whats the minimum I should consider before upgrading if need be? Appreciate ya!
@@Hotrodrex Well the fridge does not draw that much current so if you have a 2000 watt inverter now you should be okay. However, depending on the fridge you install you may need to get a pure sine wave inverter. The Samsung fridge will work with any inverter but some fridges are sensitive to the type of power e.g. modified sign wave vs. pure sine wave.
Once you get the black line where it looks good, use a #2 pencil and mark it on the wall or box to give a point that you can look at when you start the glue down.. This way you will know where to line up the parts... I also use a line to mark the parts where they line up. ( www.pvcworkshop.com/Pencil%20Line%20004.jpg ) or ( cdn.instructables.com/FW7/U0VB/I86LP9K4/FW7U0VBI86LP9K4.LARGE.jpg )
