I'm a repair tech as well.Your video is great. My dad was a player and a tech too in the 50's thru 2010. When you played 'Tenderly' at the end, you sounded just like my dad. He played a Selmer Mark VI that he had from the 50's and I still have it today (he played with Al Hirt). I just have to laugh at some of the critical comments made here of how to do this better or that better......as long as it works, that's what counts. More power to you!
Thanks Rich. I wonder if I heard your dad play??? I heard Al Hirt back in the 1970's in New Orleans. Al was pretty washed up by then buyt he had this great Tenor sax player there.
This is so great, thank you for taking the time to do this! I even have the same Buescher tenor and can't wait to do the overhaul it needs! Cheers Tim!
I agree, you can't beat that vintage Buescher sound. I own the same tenor as well. I just bought one a few days ago. Mine is from the early 70's as well. Great video !
I wanted to comment and thank you for this extremely helpful video. I'm currently looking to find a cheap Selmer Bundy (Elkhart made) tenor and alto saxophone and I figure the pads are likely going to be in rough condition on whatever I end up buying. Saving a few hundred dollars and doing it myself with a bit of patience and guidance from your video will help immensely. Sadly when I moved out of my grandmother's house in 2006 I left my soprano, alto and tenor saxes and after a house fire my aunt neglected to return a lot of my possessions (just some minor smoke damage so not write offs). I learned on Selmer Bundy saxes when I was in elementary school. In high school I was given one of the new Yamaha models, but I pleaded for them to leave an old Bundy for me use. It's been almost 12 years since I last played and I've missed it terribly. I'm finally able to replace a couple of them so hopefully I luck out and that it doesn't take my fingers (or mouth) long to get back into the swing of things.
Tim, it is obvious you are a teacher and a good one! Thank you for this video. And thank you for replying to so many of the people who have commented. You offer a lot of encouragement!
What a great video to inform me about my beloved sax (Elkhart by Buescher) and how to get that tone back! So informative and helpful. Nicely done Tim! = )
touched by "the new saxophone just don't have the same sound as this old saxophone" , and thanks for the tutorial, I am going to try fix my 27 years old saxophone while others think it is a trash!!!! thats my first saxophone afterall!
great video...thanks! I liked the sound of the horn... I know it is a BUESCHER Aristocrat... but which one ( there seem to be a bunch... serial number range would help) and what mouth piece? Thanks Vince
I have a 1948 Holton tenor saxophone that needs new pads. Will any pad kit work, or do I need to measure all of the keys to get the right pads? I feel confident in replacing the pads after seeing your video. Thanks
These videos on sax repair are great for me. I don’t plan to repair saxes for a living, but want to know how to do these basic repairs on my own saxes - I’ve got some nice old Martins and a Buescher curved soprano
Fabulous instruction. I just bought two Lamonte sax's. One a standard plays like new & the superior needing a neck & pads "have all the hardware" for a fun rebuild. Appreciate the video lessons. 🎷
Dear "TimTools99," Greetings, I'm James Williams of Anchorage Alaska. Last week when I was shopping an antique store I came across an old saxophone instrument. It has a lot of dirt, grime dust and oxidation that must be removed. However, all of the soldered components are in excellent shape and are rock solid. Also, one of the action springs is broken off and needs to be replaced. The unit I found is a "Lafleur Tenor or Alto Sax" that was made in London England. It was an import from "Boosey & Hawkes Co." However that is all the information I have on this instrument. The serial number is "178699." The instrument is in very excellent shape for the most part, but sadly, it is also suffering from long term neglect. All of the engraving work is in fantastic shape and will not need to be restored in any way. The other issue due to age and neglect are the key pads. The mechanical components are a combination of solid brass rods, along with Nickle and Stirling Silver parts. All of the fingering for the primary keys still have their original mother of pearl buttons, but every single pad is suffering deterioration and need to be replaced. I'm contacting you because I am in the process of repairing and rebuilding the instrument. I would like to know... do you have any information about this particular saxophone? I don't think that it has any real value as a collector piece, nor do I believe that it's one of the high end instruments so many people covet. If history is any judge, then it's likely to be a student instrument of some kind. It was obviously a well loved instrument and has only a few minor scratches, and the single bell dent that I worked out using a variety of wooden tools I made for this purpose, a non-marring hammer and my metal burnishing tool with a highly polished finish. ... the workmanship and craftsmanship of the sax is remarkable. Aside from the broken action spring, the mechanics still move and function with a silky smooth motion. Based on the little bit of information I'm providing, can you enlighten me about this instrument? When was it made and how old is it? I tried to trace it with the serial number but kept hitting a dead end and couldn't locate any information about it with the serial number. I believe that I have enough knowledge about instrument repair, and I am a blacksmith/knifemaker with a solid working understanding of metallurgy. I was able to remove the bell dent with no problem at all. There are a few tiny ripples that still need to be addressed with my burnisher, but won't be a major problem. After I have it cleaned and polished, I want to take it to a music shop to have all of the pads replaced and the neck cork replaced. Any information from you is welcome, and if you know anything about this instrument I hope you will share. My goal is to restore it, then hand it down to one of my grand, or great nieces or nephews. Many of them are coming of age and showing an active interest in learning to play a musical instrument of some kind. This saxophone would make a nice starter instrument for them. Thank you for your time. If you would like, you may email your response to . Best wishes, James
I'm not familiar with this saxophone. It is probably a student model but not sure. Sometimes these turn out to be nice instruments ... I guess you will need to find someone else who knows about this brand.
Thanks. Very informative and also encouraging to see that this isn't rocket science but a careful, measured and achievable process. I'll have to give it a go.
Scary. I’d be ok putting in the pads but remembering how to re assemble? A tiny drop of thin oil on the rods would be sensible. I noticed some of the keys did not have cork stops so it would be metal against metal. The sax has a lovely tone. I have a selmer cigar cutter made in 1927 and super action made in 1947, both superb.
i’ve always wanted to learn how to repair instruments, so thanks so much for this video!! i have a quick question though, how should i go about cleaning the gunk off the metal? when the metal turns green, or when you remove the pads and there’s residue on the saxophone. thank you!!
I usually just use a mild soap and water but I know what you mean about the metal turning green. That is usually because the lacquer has come off exposing bare metal. You may need to use a buffer
In your video you said sometimes after the pads are in you would have to adjust the key to seal off the leak. Is that done with a screw or do you try to take off the key again and reposition the pad?
+Franko S. You use a pad-leveling tool. It actually is placed between the pad and the tone hole and you bend the key slightly and check for seal. I am planning to do a video on this technique - just have not gotten to it yet. This is delicate business and a key height, condition of corks, felts etc play into it sometimes too. Some saxophones have little screws on the keys that help with adjustment too. If your sax is out of whack too much, it's best to take it to a repairman but I was able to learn to do a lot of the work myself. The repair class in college was great then after years of doing repairs for my students, I got pretty confident at it. I will try to get the Pad-Leveling video done soon!
Hi Tim, I have a tenor Sax Yamaha YTS 62 ("brass color" ) and at least the higher pad of the palm key is completely damaged. It's one of the easier to change (only one screw to be removed). So it is a good beginning to change all the pads. When after removing the basket of the pad, you warm it on the flame or with hot air, will the varnish of the saxophone not be damaged? Do you use the flat tools like a bone with one hole for the resonator in each extremity to adjust the pad? If yes, how do you use it. Thank a lot
So I landed on your page due to your video on building your tiny house from start to finish and found this as a result. Pretty random that you had a sax repair video I thought. Great video though. It makes me want to find a cheaper used sax just to practice on, as I don’t think I could bear the stress of trying to do this myself to my primary horn, which is a tenor, or my alto. Both don’t need new pads yet anyway, but I am interested in learning how to work on a repair instruments. Saxophones in particular. Thanks again for the video, and you have great sound at the end. I wish I could get my vibrato to sound as even and pretty as you are able to do. Gonna keep working at it!
Keith Taylor thank you. The vibrato is all about training your jaw to move like you want it to. Slow or fast - whatever. Here is how to train. Start by dropping your jaw in a motion one big “yaaa” per beat of your foot. Like “yaaa” “yaaa” “yaaa” - one wide vibe per beat. Then do two vibes per beat. Yaaa yaaa. Yaaa yaaa. Then go to three yaaaas per tap of your foot. This way you are training yourself to vary the speed of your vibrato to do be able to do whatever you want. Do these exercises every day until you master the vibrato at any speed. Good luck.
I enjoyed this vlog!!! i used to do this all the time with my flute. i have yet to do this with my T-sax. It just seems to be too much work. But, after seeing this, I can do it with more confidence. THANK YOU! I must say that i do love the sound of your sax! I hear exactly what you mean. I have a Yamaha student model I purchased in 91. The quality isn't as... warm and romantic sounding. I have never done a step up for my T-sax or clarinet. The only step up I did was on my flute, and that was before they started to add more buttons and holes. The only up grade at the time was from a C-foot to a B-foot. But after seeing all what they've added to the current instruments just within the past 10 years, I wouldn't want to do a step up.
Thanks for watching Krisstofer. This video was more for someone who needs to do an emergency repair. There is a lot to this type of repair work and I take my sax to a real professional when it needs serious work.
Thank you, as a new player I'm struggling. Is it me or my sax? I think it's the sax because the problem are new. So you have been very helpful, thanks again.
Do you have a suggestion of which pads to get? Just looking online, different styles, different prices, different resonators...it would be nice to have a seasoned opinion
I am just now getting around to restoring an old alto that I've had sitting in storage for over a decade. Being almost a century old, most if not all pads need to be replaced. I had thought that I should clean all the old shellac/glue out of the key with a solvent like acentone before I put a new pad in. But apparently that's not necessary? Thanks for your video....this is my first time doing this
Keith Ray hey Keith, any luck on changing your saxophone keypads? I really feel like doing it myself but I don’t want to mess it up, I got a alto saxophone for free from my Nextdoor neighbor
Thanks for posting. I am not a band teacher but I find low priced student instruments, re-pad and adjust them, and donate them. This video will help with an alto saxophone I just acquired. 3 questions: Do you clean and lubricate that long rod that holds the keys before replacing it? If so, what do you use? I use a little dab of glue (easy to remove) on the threads of the screws of the instruments I have handled so they won't vibrate loose. Can I do that on the saxophone? Is the same shellac I used on the clarinets? Thank you for any response in advance.
I use 3 in one oil. The shellac for saxophone is dark in color. it's heavier and stickier. The lighter colored shellac is for flute and clarinet pads. As far as putting glue on the threads ... I have never found that necessary but it won't hurt as long as you can get the screw out the next time. Good luck
Good video! Thanks. I am a novice sax mechanic and have a question for you. What do you think about using saddle soap on the pads of older saxophones to get pads to soften up? Also I have had some success with removing certain springs on the sax on main row. Put sponge foam blocks on large hole keys with guards and throw into oven heated to 300° while it kools down. The pads all float over the tone holes and they can come out playing wonderful.
Thank you very much for the demonstration. I am thinking of getting an older sax which has dodgy pads but is priced accordingly. By the way, I am wondering if wrapping the pearl button with silver foil will prevent it from being burnt by the flame?
Do you ever have problems with heat varnish while doing this? I'm a current red wing bir student and want to try and repad my sax before I learn to next semester. Also would a plain hand held torch work as a substitute to the bunsen burner? Thanks
I use the little burner because the alcohol burns very cleanly. When you heat your keys be careful to apply heat just until the glue stick melts. Don't overheat. Watch out for your pearls so you don't heat them and ruin them.
Tim I appreciate your videos.....I too and into working on many things......woodworking....make guitars......cabinets.......but I have a sax question on the buescher student tenor...........all of my note seem pretty well in tune except the high d with the palm key.......I think it is flat.....I can't find my harmonic tuner......I have too much junk but a fellow sax player I played some tunes with kept complaining about my intonation and my embrature.............but I think it is off key.......what might be a fix for that :)
Hi Gary. Learning the intonation tendencies of a saxophone is important. A tuner can help you to learn which notes are sharp or flat on your horn. No sax is perfect ... some are better than others. Embouchure is important of course for overall proficiency, including intonation. I would suggest you take some lessons from a "good" teacher. Have your saxophone teacher play your saxophone and see what he thinks of it. I studied five years in college and took lessons all that time, played in the college bands etc. What I am saying is that it takes a good teacher to get you playing with good habits. Also, if you know of a repair shop that has a good woodwind repairman, have him go over your sax. Good luck.
@@TimTools99 If you search Beuscher saxophones, they sometimes tell you it's pronounced Bisher, but then there's this: www.stohrermusic.com/2014/09/how-to-say-buescher/
This is nice, useful information, helpful to watch. You should NOT use a "crochet" hook for this work, however. There are real tools -- specialized spring hooks -- that are designed to hook and unhook the springs, and they don't cost very much, and you don't have to start filing notches in crochet hooks. (The only other person I've seen use one of these crochet hooks was another band teacher. Get the right tool, guys!) And thanks Tim for this little video :)
+Krisvan6 Yeah I guess I did. I never worry too much about seating the pads. It is important to make sure the key/pad is leveled then I hold the key down for a few seconds to allow the tone hole to imprint on the leather pad. I have never blocked or corked keys shut overnight. If the key is level, the pad will seat itself just by playing the saxophone.
+TimTools99 True. However, if you apply some heat to the back side of the key and hold it down for a few seconds, you will get a nice seat in the leather and felt of the pad. I believe it can can be helpful for getting a sax in a better adjustment quicker.
Krisvan6 Oh yes, when I first put the new pads in the hot glue, I hold the pad down for few seconds. That puts a nice ring in the leather. A lot of guys hold them shut by wedging cork or wood pieces to hold the keys shut. I have never bothered with that.
+tomsax1 Hi Tomsax. I have a short video on add leveling. Look in my playlists for the music playlist. There are 4 videos in there. Thanks for watching.
Ezeq, you have to take the sax apart and clean all the old lubricant and dirt away and then apply fresh lubricant so your sax keys move smoothly with less noise and friction. :)
Each of the keys pivots on a rod or screws. The lubricant helps the keys move freely and quietly. Also, with out a drop of oil at each of these points, the keys would wear and become sloppy over time. You only need to do this ever six months of year depending on how much you play.
I mainly do minor repairs for myself. If the sax has bent keys or needs to be regulated, I take it to the pro. Best thing for you would be to get factory repair training if you are serious about repairing. I just had one class in college.
I have a student model Buescher tenor also that I like very much but I am wondering....I can not see in the video.....does yours have the support bar on the neck piece that mine has....a straight rod going horizontally under it......that is the only thing I do not like about it's appearance......is there an option or fix for this ?
I love mine.....bought it on ebay 10 years ago or so.....for maybe 150 bucks.....I tore it down cleaned repadded, oiled.....corked and then used a rope light to find leaks and adjusted it.......I can growl if I want......play sweet if I want......I was yearning for a selmer mark but quit that since I just play for enjoyment at home because this horn plays easy top to bottom.
My latest project is a buescher 1937 Alto Aristocrat a guy living here in the hills of West Virginia got from his father who played in the big band era NYC......it came with a clarinet in the case also...........I have ordered pads for both and the Aristocrat is in parts awaiting the pads. I played it before tearing it down and man does it sound good......but needed pads. :)
The Buesher Aristocrat came with a slant Otto Link mouth piece emburated bar 5 start.......I am gluing cork right now on it....can't wait to play it. :)
+Martine Sévigny I do not sell Saxophone pads. Sorry. I buy my repair supplies from www.ferreestools.com/pads/pads-sax.html. You can tell them the brand and model of the saxophone and they will sell you a set.
Thankyou I also have a Beuscher 400 with an otto link super tone master 8 that came with the horn very loud now to fix the leaks,, thankyou !! now to find the glue.
+Julio Soto Oh yeah the chiqui chiqui is not good. That is quite a job to do the entire saxophone. You can be cork in small sheets of varying thicknesses. Same procedure ... heat the key up, apply shellac/glue and stick the cork on while it's hot. I shape the corks afterward with an emory board. I will have to do a video on that next.
Thanks for the info and the myth busting demo of that student model horn. It sounds great, it must be a pro horn mislabeled as a student model, or you wrote the word "Professional Model" on it somewhere to make it play better. Marketing.
I suppose you could but your thumb would get pretty hot. Haha! I use alcohol in my burner which burns really clean. That's the main reason. Also, you can just leave the burner lit and bring your piece over to it.
If by "non-replaceable," you mean pads that never need replacing, good luck. A kid can only blow so many fragments of Snickers bar into a horn before the pads are covered in it!
Hot glue is preferable. Shellac should only be used in environments that dont experience drastic temperature changes. Mostly places that have snow in winter and hot summers. Shellac greatly shrinks and your pads will just start falling out. Use hot glue, shurduzstik is the best, it allows for expansion and contraction.
Garth Rush You are welcome Garth. There can be more to it if the pads are not level after you put them in. That requires a pad leveling tool and some adjusting. I should have demonstrated that too. Glad you like the video.
***** Thanks from me as well for the education and the nice little soulful ditty at the end. I for one, would love to see the leveling and adjusting as they will be inevitably be required at some point in this Murphy's Law world.
+ButIDontWantaGooglePlusPage Thanks a lot. Yes, I should do a follow-up showing pad leveling. When I get time, I will make that video. Thanks for watching.
