Great video, I followed right along. The steps laid out thoroughly and tools helps someone of my limited (very) mechanical skills. People like you help others step out of their comfort zone and give confidence to learn new skills. Thanks so much!
@@sam-sw8zw i think everyones missing the point of a jeep... youre just driving a low unefficient clunky rig if you dont take advantage of the offroad capabilities... which involve getting the engine bay coated in dust mud rock chips and anything else you can think of
It might have been mentioned already but if not- a bit of dielectric grease on the plug boots not only helps water stay out but makes the rail come of so much smoother, for extreme "submarine" Jeeps( guys with snorkels and such) it's common practice to use a lot of that grease on all electrical connections to keep your computer and other electrical components happy.
I recommend removing the pipe, for lack of a better term, that goes from the air filter box to the intake. It's held in by hose clamps on either end. I used a 5/16 socket. Taking this off was easy and made my plug/wire/distributor change a lot easier.
This was great, I was doing this to my jeep yesterday. I learned after the first plug, that I recommend air blasting out the area AGAIN after breaking loose the old plug but before pulling it out all the way. I was very surprised how much dust and such was in there.
One of the best looking 4.0L motors I ever saw. Don’t scratch that Rolex, I would never wear mine doing any type of work that would risk scratching. Nothing worse than accidentally cross threading a spark plug.
Use anti-seize compound on plug threads every time you replace a plug (not oil). It will save you the headache from a broken plug in a head. I recommend using this cheap but important compound even if you have steel heads... and you should really use it if you have aluminum heads.
Great video. Just FYI all torque specs are for clean dry threads, unless otherwise specified. If you lube threads, you generally have to back off of the torque by approx 20% .
Great video! Thanks!! My son and I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coil pack in his Jeep yesterday. It was really easy except for the wiring connector. We had to move the red locking key and then squeeze the clip and pull out the cable. It is kind of awkward to reach with a lifted Jeep. Also, the automatic transmission tube was in the way, but, we managed around it. I would highly recommend anyone trying this out on their own following your video. Easy to do! BTW, we found that the ignition coli pack was cracked near the boot for cylinder # 3. This was causing a misfire code on OBD II. All work complete and his Jeep now runs like new! THANKS AGAIN!
Excellent video. And as I comment I see everyone else hit the nail on the head: That's one clean engine bay. . WOW!! I thought I knew how to clean the bay, but this engine bay looks new!
This is a great video thank you for putting it out and please do more ! The way you do videos is very easy to understand and they are informative thanks
This is a good video, but there are a couple of things to be aware of that I ran into a little problem with athough they can be worked around. The first thing is that he's changing the plugs on a stick shift without the auto trans dip stick in the way and that is a problem in pulling back the wire sleeve especially on the back one. You will have to work at it a bit also in order to get back plug started. It took me 10-15 minutes to do it. It will be helpful to remove tthe heater hoses out of their little clips to get a better angle/posostion to put back two plugs in. I could not think of anything to solve trans. dip stick issue except to take your time. I noticed the guy also did not put any of that electrical silicone back on top of plug to not let plug short out. I did not have any so I uses what was on old plugs. Just a couple of things to think about. I used to do this on an old Chevy six in 30 minutes or less. This took me a good hour and 15 min., otherwise an excellant video.
Just wanted to say thanks for this video. Finally got around to changing the spark plugs in the 06 Jeep LJ, only been putting it off for like at least 4 months now. Glad I did it, either the dealership I bought it from or the Jeep assembly line had the gaps set all over the place, between .40 and .50 and they're all supposed to be set to .35 for mine... Translation, they probably didn't bother setting the gaps, they just crammed em in there. Like you said, purrs like a 600 pound cast iron kitten now...
Good tutorial, but that smidge of engine oil on the plug threads is all but vaporized and worthless right from the start. ALL engines need plugs replaced with anti-seize compound on the threads. I just did my 00' 4.0 today. Replaced another set using Autolite Platinum(single) tips. This engine loves this plug as I had 10 years and 85,000 miles on them. A bit too long to wait, but still starting, idling and running fine although a few plugs gapped out at .075 and .077!
NGK plugs which are the plugs Mopar supplies do not require antiseize as the coating on the threads of the spark plugs from NGK fulfills that purpose. ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs
Great video, I haven't replaced spark plugs since we had distributors and points. However, Spark Plug Torque specs appear to be off. From the FSM: (1) Start spark plug into cylinder head by hand to avoid cross threading. (2) 4.0L 6-Cylinder Engine: Tighten spark plugs to 35-41 N·m (26-30 ft. lbs.) torque. (3) 4.7L V-8 Engine: Tighten spark plugs to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) torque. Rail torque Installation per FSM: (3) Install 4 coil mounting bolts. Loosely tighten 4 bolts just enough to allow bolt bases to contact cylin-der head. Do a final tightening of each bolt in steps down to 29 N·m (250 in. lbs.) torque. Do not apply full torque to any bolt first. 250 In lbs = 20 Ft/lbs
Silky Tp- thanks for checking out my specs: but my value of 27 ft-lbs for spark plugs on the 4.0L 6-cylinder engine is correct according to the factory service manual you quoted. Perhaps I misunderstood your comment? If I made a mistake, I'd like to know and get it corrected for everyone right away. Thanks!
FreedivejeepHD I guess I had some blinders on in as much as I assumed that the 4.0 specs would be preserved model year to model year. As I read through the comments below, I saw that you're on a 2005 TJ; my remarks were based on a 2002 WJ, yet, the same 4.0 straight six. After reading more of the comments, it appears that I may have been mistaken, based on slight differences between the two models. My Field Service Manual, is for the 2002 WJ and cites different torque specs for the plugs and the rail. Given that, forgive me for jumping to conclusions without having analyzed all the data. This was a great video, delivered with excellence. Your attention to detail, pointing out pitfalls, and the organization with which you delivered this video is really exemplary. So in summary, if I'm right in as much as there may be differences from year to year it just might be worth pointing out in the description so that folks are sure to check their specs. If your experience suggests that there should NOT be a difference in the torque specs of those items between a 2005 TJ and a 2002 WJ, then it might warrant some effort at uncovering the inconsistency.
Thank you very much for the tutorial! I've done spark plug changes in my previous vehicles, lil 4 bangers, and didn't want to dive into a straight 6 without previous practice. Only gripe I have is to the previous owner - the old plugs were beat to hell and back. Who installs NGKs in a domestic?! Made me furious. Now my baby is riding smoother with better throttle response on Champion coppers. Best thing I've done since owning her. Again, thanks!
Is this a 05 Unlimited Rubicon, I guess it would have to be, they only made TJ Unlimited Rubicon's for two years (05-06) I have an 06 Unlimited Rubicon and mine doesn't have that factory hood liner, that's why your spark plug gap info decal is located underneath your break booster were mine is on the hood. I wish mine had the hood liner, it saves the paint from spider cracks obtained by engine heat. I got the last of the TJ Unlimited Rubicon's but shorted some candy... damit
Hello, new Jeeper here. I'm from Wisconsin but I live in the UK now. I have a 2001 Wrangler 4.0 with the ignition rail like in your video. So your video is really helpful. I just have one (probably really stupid) question. What about the spark plug wires? Where are they? As mentioned I'm really new at this. I've just took my Jeep in for a service and they changed the spark plugs but now it doesn't feel right. Idling slightly funny and "jumpy" when excellerating in 2nd/3rd gear. I talked to my Dad and he suggested either plugs or wires may be messed up. Basically I think they screwed up. I'm going back tomorrow but I am a girl and don't want them to treat me like one. So if you just let me know if there are wires and could you mess them up by changing the plugs?
Hi Kate, thanks for watching the video. There are no stupid questions. Yours is an excellent question! In older versions of most engines, such as the earlier (1999 and older) 4.0L, spark plug wires sent electricity at just the right time from something called the distributor, to the spark plugs. More modern engines use what is called "distributorless ignition. As you may have surmised, there is no distributor. Rather, each spark plug has its own device, called an ignition coil, that plugs directly on to each spark plug. Towards the beginning of the video, we begin by removing the "ignition rail". All the ignition rail is, is a means of holding all six ignition coils (or "coil packs", as they're sometimes called) so that they can be pushed on to all six spark plugs at the same time. Perhaps the ignition rail is loose, causing a bad connection to one or more of the spark plugs. Make sure none of the 4 bolts are loose.
+Adam Adam Thanks for watching, and you are correct; but if your cylinder head (into which the spark plugs are screwed) gets hot enough to exceed the flash point of synthetic motor oil (listed as 232C or 449F if you prefer) www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAXXENPVLMOMobil_1_High_Mileage_Oil.aspx , then you are about 200 degrees past overheating your engine. The cooling system will prevent cylinder head temperatures from ever achieving such temperatures.
