That trick with the threaded rod is such a great idea! I have been planning on replacing some bushings on my 200 series, going to take another look to see if I can use some of your tricks in this video on my 200
@chowcares do you have anymore feedback after driving on the bushings for a few months? Read on mud that the polyurethane is really stiff and gives a lot of feedback from the road. Some even prefer the oem rubber. What are your thoughts?
I'm in the same dilemma and decided on oem new rubber bushings for the Driver side. Aftermarket bushing for the much larger passenger side bushing. Fingers crossed.
I tackled this job last weekend and this video was an immense help. Thank you! When I first got the old bushings out, they didn't look that bad, and I had a moment of regret, wondering if I really needed to replace them at all. But after getting the new ones in, it definitely makes a difference in the preciseness of the steering. My steering wheel was actually slightly off-center before and is now dead center. A few notes that might be useful for others: I used SuperPro bushings (SKU: SPF2470K) and they come chamfered from the factory, so that made things easier. Also, their instructions say to coat everything that contacts metal with grease, so I just greased the whole bushing. I did follow someone else's advice and put the lower bushing in first, then the upper with the metal sleeve, then tighten everything down with the 3/8" rod. Took slightly less than 4 hours.
I did this job with my son yesterday, guided by this video, on a 2000 LC. A few tips: After you get the two small bushings out on the driver's side (ours were frazzled), putting in the new ones can only be done one way. Take the sleeve and a half bushing and line them up on the top. Make sure your frame hole is lined up well with the rack; you can reinsert the long bolt to do this. Then use the 3/8 rod system to pull these down. Then pry up the rack enough to slide the lower bushing onto the hole and pull the rack down onto it with the rod. It may take a few tries to get these in but be patient. It works. Then insert the long bolts in the frame holes and loosely screw on the washer and nut before you replace the large bushing on passenger side. Its holes will then line up nicely. This repair seems to fix our problem of the VSC light and alarm coming on in sweeping turns. It was dangerous because the brake would activate suddenly and practically jerk the LC off the road.
Outstanding content on you channel! Has helped tremendously with my 2000 LC. Any plans on a video showing how to change out the bushings (or whole assembly) on your rear Panhard rod?
Thanks for the video, the threaded rod was a life saver. I used the SuperPro bushings on my 2000 Land Cruiser, like @etb4272 mentioned they are pre-chamfered. For anyone searching for torque specs, it seems to be 74 ft*lbs for all bolts on this "old style" rack.
This was absolutely spot on! I was able to replace the bushings and that annoying squeak disappeared. Isn't always that one bolt or nut that takes 90% of the entire effort. Ha! But's it's done and thank you for posting this DIY video!
thanks man. great video as usual man. but I think the old bushings are not oem. another thing, your video about replacing cv, the old cv are also not oem. iam sure about the cv thanks again man
I have a used slee diff drop kit I could send you for free. However, I stopped using it because 9 months after install a bearing in diff went out…. Personally I would rather change CV’s as needed.
Hi, I just got a 2002 Toyota Landcruiser 100 4.2D 1HD-FTE, and recently i start to look over your videos about LC100 since i got alot work to do my LC as well, your videos are just amazin and so helpful, in my LC currently it's pretty hard for me to turn the steering and alot vibration on the steering when the road conditon is bad, do you think by replacing the steering rack bushing are helpful? or may be it's just my inner and outer tierod.
I like the tapered mod you did here. I will add that a little Super Lube added to the bushing will aid in installing these poly bushings. It won’t react with the polyurethane and just makes it going in a lot easier. People overthink this stuff and act like they are working on the space shuttle sometimes. The key is very light lubricant on the leading edge and life is good. Great video!
My steering was dangerously loose on my 2001 LC. I bought the same kit along with the rod and washer parts. Got it all back together today. Tight as a tiger now. Thank you man.
I gotta do this myself, so thank you for the video. SuperPro bushings should come in first thing in the morning. I have a 10 hour road trip to make as soon as the alignment is done.
Your videos are great, very informative. I am having an intermittent screeching/squealing from what seems like the dash and can not find any info that might pin down what it is…lots of varying opinions. Any thoughts/help greatly appreciated.
Love the videos! I think my LC might be starting to have the fuse block issue from one of your videos. Today I went to start it, I turned the key and all I could hear was the starter and nothing else. Is that similar to what yours was doing?
Thanks for the tip. I put a part time 4WD kit in my ‘99 cruiser which certainly helps with steering as you only in 2wd most of the time. It also saves my cv’s and front diff components from wearing. Haven’t found the need for a drop diff setup, to realign the cv angles, as the cv,s are stationary most of the time. Marks 4wd Adaptors in Aussie supply the part. Down side is freewheeling hubs require a hole drilled into your centre caps for them to fit. Your channel has been very helpful, keep up the good work sir.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sXysb0qreok.html about 2:28 is when I show the cruiser. I’ll do a bit of a video on it and upload it next week, when I get back from the mountains.
It might be possible without doing it, but it is definitely easier to have both front wheels up so you can move the rack around as needed to get the old bushings out and the new ones in.
I will also add that it was easier for me to install the bottom bushings first, then insert the metal tube and push it in, then do the top bushings last. The ring bushing on the passenger side was easier to install however I struggled to loosen the 2 bolts and had to take off the passenger front tire so I can access the space above the inner tie rod. I ended up using a long socket and ratchet and slowly loosening it.
If you have a 2004 to 2007 rack, it is different than the one here and it can be confusing as there are not a lot of resources and or videos for it. The difference is once you pry out the bushings like here, there's also the bushing shell that is metal and looks like it is a part of the rack. I found this out the hard way because I tried to press in the bushings but they kept squeezing back out after I looked at the mud thread link below I found that out. I used an air hammer and those shells came out and the bushing slid right in with some silicone spray super easy. The passenger side has full access, but the driver side make sure you put the lower bushing in first, put the sleeve in from the top, then the top bushing and everything should bolt right down. Also, the bushing kit used here will not work for that rack, even though on Amazon, it says it does. Here are the references I used and the link for that new bushing kit. Thanks for the video it was helpful. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5DWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 forum.ih8mud.com/threads/04-steering-rack-bushing-replacement.874556/