Many thanks for such a great video. Really clear. I have changed the fluid on my caravan and all went really well. The dealer had quoted me £300 to do this! In a way I can understand because it is quite time consuming. However I now have several litres of old g13 to dispose of. My local recycling centre won't take it. I guess I will try a local garage.
Les, brilliant video saved a lot of competent caravaners a considerable amount of cash at the main stealers there plus the fact you have the peace of mind that the job was done correctly cheers mate 👍👍👍
Great video, I’ve never been a confident plumber, last time this needed doing I went to an independent, with travelling it took a full day and I had loads of trouble with air in the system. Mine is a Frankia Motorhome with a pump on the boiler, I found as long as I ran the system pump as well as the auxiliary pump it worked fine. I also decided to have a practice run with just water, thought it would act as a flush out as well as getting to grips with the procedure, worked a treat and for first timers I can highly recommend a practice run. Thanks again for this great informative video 👍🏻😊
Very similar to my attempt. I couldn’t drain down due to position of valve. I used a large syringe and hose to empty tank before disconnecting. I also flushed the system with de-ionised water prior to filling with new fluid. Cheaper by a country mile. Full marks.
nice method with the pomp, you seems to have less problem with venting with this method, unfortunately i don't think i can remove the header tank as easily as yours and using your method.
Nice video! My dealer wants $800 (American) to change the Glycol! Our NuCamp RV manufacturer charges around $400, so if I can do what you showed us, I'll be saving $$$$! It's odd that our dealers tell us, that even if we use the newer glycol, we still need to change it every 2 years! I'm going to go with what you are saying and wait every 5 years!! I Thank you!
Excellent video, i did do mine in the summer of 2021, on a twin axle 2008 Conqueror and the fluid amount was the same . I used the same antifreeze as you but the concentrate and mixed myself. Just one little thing I noticed was your fluid level in the header tank should be just 1cm above MIN to allow for expansion. Again well done!!
Hi, nice Video, thx a lot. Are you sure, that it is not the other direction!!! I think, on the left side the flow goes up through the tank, through the suck-pump into the right one back to the heater. Regards Andreas
Brilliant video, doing the change this weekend. Have drained the header by using a thin tube to siphon out the antifreeze. That means you don't have to struggle under the van with the brass plug mine on an Elegance 480 was difficult to get to
Peter. Great. But are you sure that that siphon method will remove all the system liquid content. Your tube would have to reach the lowest system point
@@MrLittleowl hi Leslie I just used the siphon tube to remove the liquid from the header tank and about 2 inches into the tube. I then removed the header and used the pump to fill the new antifreeze and push out the old antifreeze- worked well and saved about £130
Great video Les. Very easy to follow. At what stage did you start venting the system? and for how long? Was the bathroom heater the only place you vented from? Sam
Sam, Hi, once refilled and the header tank level was correct , that's when I vented, I vented air out until the heating water appeared at the vent. As you vent any air out then top up the header tank if need be. I only vented at the chrome radiator as this was the highest point, Regards Les
Hi, noted thanks, I have seen examples on some posts where the fluid was replaced successfully by simply draining it out and then refilling with new via the header tank. I suspect that can work in some cases, but runs a risk of air lock and venting problems. That sort of issue is largely removed by pumping it in as it comes out.
Hi I liked watching your video changing your alde heating antifreeze I'm a bit unclear weather you used the G13 straight out the bottle or mixed with de-ioniser water 50% 50% de-ioniser.i have seen so many ways and how to use the tripleQX , after you did your antifreeze change is your caravan heating working OK, your thoughts on this would be welcome regards rod
Rod. Hi. yes worked perfectly afterwards. No air locks. I do wonder if there is in fact any need to fill as you drain. I do wonder if you just emptied it out in one go then refilled maybe it would still work ok. But it would be a risk to try that, especially if its a big van. The g13 I purchased was already diluted 50-50. You can buy it concentrated and dilute youself. Amounts to the same thing either way.Good luck.
Robin, Hi, that's the circulating pump, on my van its fitted on the header tank. On newer vans I believe its fitted elsewhere in the heating circuit. The heating circulation pump plays no part in the antifreeze change. Regards Les
The G13 used in the video contains glycerol as the antifreeze component, whereas the Alde recommended fluid is, I believe, G12++ fluid, which is glycol based. The formulations (e.g. inhibitors, etc) are otherwise identical and they should perform similarly. In recent years, G13 has been steadily replacing older formulations in many applications, and is now generally preferred on environment grounds, since it is a by-product of the biodiesel manufacture, essentially a waste product, and hence dirt cheap, and is also non-toxic.
Sorry, should have said that it is specifically the glycerol that is the by-product from biodiesel. The other components (inhibitor, dye, etc) will likely be synthetic, although these will only be present in minor amounts.
G13 G12++ Like is Aldis any different beside the extortinate price, i doubt it. Suppose all the fancy pipes they sell for caravan engineers , they have to get their money back
