Well, the one positive to take away from this video is that your uncle is an absolute legend for helping out like he did. It's a shame things didn't work out with the computer, hopefully a second trip up north will see it fixed. If it were me, I'd fight to get it running and then restore it because it's such a rare find... and a pretty nice car to boot!
Sorry about jacob's back. I herniated a disc in my lower back when I was in my early 30's and have been screwed ever since. Don't settle for $100K...you're done for life.
Yeah, it is expensive no matter what. I didn’t think there was much risk with what I was doing. But given my car’s questionable history with water, this was always a possibility.
@@ElliottAlvis Get a DICE or DICE clone, this is the specific volvo computer and can help find faults in the modules and tell you what is and isn't working. Kind of a pain to set up, but it will be worth it if you're trying to keep the car. You will also need a laptop running what is known as VIDA 2014d (this is the software to connect the computer to the car). Bunch of forums have great write-ups on it.
@@brianfrancis8821 look up Vida 2014d installation. It's a bit odd and sometimes needs to be ran on a VM of windows 7 or windows 7 itself. It's kind of a pain to get to work with windows 10 to my understanding
@@silverjac909 I am running it on a ssd that I purchased all set up already but for some reason it won’t let me connect to the internet or use the trackpad on my laptop it’s quite odd
Got an '04 VR myself, trust me, these cars definitely love to throw curveballs. I thought about selling mine multiple times lol, but that feeling when it's running right and you know that you kept it alive is worth more than money can buy it for. If you need any help I could at least share what I know on these cars for what it's worth. Good luck!
LOL... I feel your pain went through all of that on my 2005 XC90. After all that engine work my car still wouldn't start. Used the same Canadian computer guys in Canada sent them my ECM, CEM still no go. Then I realized that there was no fuel. Changed the fuel pump .... FYI never change the fuel pump in the winter outside plastic gets brittle. In the end it was the FCM (Fuel Control Module) that controls fuel output. Idiots designed it to sit outside the car, located near the rear passenger wheelwell outside of the car. talk about corrosion. I bought that new since used would be in similar condition, I also bought an addtional cable that would extend the cable so I could move the unit inside the car. The easiest location for me was under the rear passenger seat, it's a very simple job I'm not a mechanic so it's definately an easy job. I had all those same limp mode issue most Volvo owners have suffered. That was a year ago and my car runs great ever since. You should open that amp unit and check out the electronic board. Sometimes all you need to do is clean the board with 99.9% pure Isopropyl Alcohol, Amazon sells it or any electronic board cleaner. Also make sure the pigtails to the ECM and the CEM are clear of corrosion and non of the pins have bent during removal or replacement. and check the pigtails that connect from the inside to the CEM, since it's in such a tricky location. Good Luck and don't sell it, it's frustrating I know but a simple fix.
As someone who dailies a V70R, my advice is to keep throwing money at it until it's fixed. That's the R lifestyle. I feel where you're coming from though, it can be depressing when things keep going wrong. I feel that way about my Toyota MR2.
@@nilsutt eh, once you actually own it (cause yeah the purchase/registration price will be a lot), its not that bad. A V70R costs 8000 dkk/year in taxes, and then insurance/gas is likely similar to Sweden. So definitely more expensive, but still perfectly doable. (I say this as a student in Denmark with an old 850, so I know what ownership costs haha)
If you haven't, be sure to re-tighten the throttle body after the car's warm (run the car for 20 mins (when it runs properly) then re tighten). After tightening, hit max boost to make sure it won't pop off. I managed to pop the duct off with just a wee bit of boost the day after I replaced the PCV and had to limp home for 30 minutes at 30mph max :D
My 88 year old friend had a battery short out. He didn't know so hooked the battery charger up and fried the calibrator ROM on the old EEC-III on his Lincoln Mark VI. Blew the alternator as well as several fusible links. We are still hunting down problems. Feel your pains!
I love this series so far! I know it's disheartening to have electronics fail but you completely fixed the smoke problem!!! You have to remember the victories too. Keep at it man I want to see your vision of a fixed V70r.
Your uncle is such a legend. Hope you get the ECU all sorted out soon. I think you should keep peeling the onion on this one, it's definitely worth keeping.
Had similar issues with my CEM in my V70R (2007). Sent it to Xemodex twice, and it did go back to running ok. The electrical system is so picky in these things. Just before I scrapped mine, the wiring in the engine was shorting, and you can’t buy new wiring for it, but what was the end of the wagon was the angle gear crapping out. I’d recommend dumping yours, or make it a real project and find some other drivetrain to put in it - maybe a Subaru 2.5 turbo?
Don’t give up on it no matter how bad if you love the car, I have 6 old Mercedes and my 140 needs lots replaced from not having it done before cause the parts were lasting so long for the last guy, it all adds up quick for all them and especially the 140 but I love the car and do what I gotta do, that’s just my opinion but you do as you think best, it’s just satisfying for me to replace and repair a car from the brink of death even if takes a while
I'm wondering if something is dodgy with the wiper control line(s), not the power and ground. Perhaps there's a short from +12v to a control wire within the wiper motor unit. The motor unit may still bench test okay as its power and ground is intact, but when connected to the car, the motor unit backfeeds +12v without current limiting to the control output on the CEM. This could certainly fry the wiper driver MOSFETs/transistors, releasing the magic smoke - and they could have failed in such a way that they are preventing the rest of the CEM from powering up properly. This could certainly explain some of the repeated CEM failures- particularly if they just replaced the wiper driver components. A bad wiper motor unit could be killing that part of the CEM every time it's repaired. Maybe it would be worthwhile to check the control pins on the wiper motor for 12v when power and ground is connected on the bench, and perhaps compare that against another wiper motor assembly.
About that smoking problem. Get your head under the dash and check the wiring. Something may have melted. Also, I would check to make sure each connector is connected to the correct items. I've seen them crossed before on other cars some DIYer that didn't know what they were doing cross plugged things.
You should see the PCV system on the 3.2 engine. They learned their lesson. Can be changed in minutes. Also, a lot of those DTCs do need to be manually cleared using Vida or code reader compatible with the Volvo digital network.
Man, I thought Tyler had the worst luck in the business. I guess I was wrong! That said, you tend to handle your frustration and disappointment in a much more... sardonic manner. which I appreciate. I'm sure everything will end up ok but please feel free to continue the self-deprecation humor. hits all the right spots lol. best of luck sir... i wanna see this bad lad up to snuff eventually
Great video! I checked my '14 Cayman S and I had three center caps that pointed to the valve stem and one that did not. I took two tiny screwdrivers and inserted them into the holes and was able to twist the cap so that it did point to the valve stem. Cool catch! CRC Brakleen is amazing stuff, but wear gloves when you use it. That stuff will literally take the oil right out of your skin, which causes an annoying tingling sensation. And NEVER get it near flame or something hot: It breaks down into a chemical that is highly poisonous...
Keep it going. If it’s gotta come down to it just take it to Volvo and have them diagnose it. I’ve currently got a 2007 Volvo S80 V8 AWD I’m replacing radiator and hoses in, these rare Volvo’s are worth fixing and getting back on the road. Just keep going man, I enjoy all your videos. Love from California.!
In the video at 13:03 when you turn the ignition on, the dash is lighting up and turning off then lighting up. As soon as I saw that I knew something was wrong with your system. It's likely the CPU wasn't programmed correctly for your year which is why they thought the wiper motors weren't correct. Has the computer been replaced before? Or is that for sure the original? You know the car was running well before, so you have good bones if you will. Work on diagnosing the electrical and you'll have a solid runner. I say keep at it!
The reprogrammed / remanufactured CEM should be fine next time around. Fingers 🤞. Or get a used known working one from a scrapyard parts dealer, that might even have a hood in the same colour too.
I think you've just moved where the smoke is coming from 🤣. What to do with the Volvo?! I know what I'd do, but I really want to see you restore this now and give it an old school Volvo racing livery.
hi, I think that other computer looked crusty/funky; can you buy a new unit/units over sees.. 2 computers in question. Glad you didn't give up as yet; this ride can be a beast when hooked up the right way. Looking forward to the next step, and what the next project car in the works?? Maybe ya can share the blame with Tyler's hooptie luck/bad luck on biting off a little more than expected. I wonder what The Wizard would have done if Tyler had won the race?? thx Alvis Tommy NJ
Don't give up on it, they are great cars once you get them sorted. I have had a bunch of fun with my 6 speed v70r. They can definitely be a pain at times, but where else are you going to find a great looking 6 speed station wagon?
I’m sure your wife appreciates it, but she’ll appreciate it more if you could please remove your wedding ring while working. Don’t get “falloned” bro. I appreciate your content and don’t wanna read that you’re in the hospital for something avoidable. Thanks
Didn't you have a VIDA DiCE (or maybe it was Watch JR Go who had it for his C30)? The electronics on that gen of Volvos is very finicky, so the proper computer diagnostics is essential. Even after reprogramming, you have to do all the resets, some of which can't be done with a regular code reader. Also, look on the forums if you haven't already - there are lots of very knowledgeable people who just know all the tips and tricks. To give you an idea of how sensitive these things are, I'm working on a V50 AWD and had an issue where the aftermarket air quality sensor caused the passenger side to only blow heat. Start with a complete reset with VIDA DiCE and go from there.
Also If there is smoke and the computer fried itself you could have a wiring issue or something shorting out, would be best to check under the dash etc
My S40 had no gauges no window controls I cleaned all the fuses and all came back too life cem was my problem I'm UK so the box under passenger side was my issue. Cost nothing and so far all good .hope u get it sorted beautiful cars wen working however the p2R are well known for electrical problems all the best 👍.
Why can't they replace the computer to begin with? They keep trying to fix the original computer and it's dying. I think maybe you need to find a new computer for it and it will work properly. Maybe contacting Volvo? Seems everything else is sorted with it.
Welcome to R ownership. The worst thing an R can do is sit. Solve one problem and you'll have 3 more when you own an R. Most of these caRs were not maintained properly nor had their services done at correct intervals.When you add water damage to the mix it gets worse. My honest opinion to you would be to find a non R shell thats near mint and start swapping things. Either you turn the doner wagon into an R or strip everything from the Donor car and use it in the R. Get Vida if you dont have it already, it's needed to diagnose most problems on Volvos in the most efficient way. I own 2 R's an 04 wagon in Passion Red and an 04 sedan in Titanium Grey. I got the Sedan first and it spend the first 6 months of its life with me in and out of my garage on a weekly basis. I spent pretty much 3k in parts excluding the normal wear and tear stuff. These caRs are not for the faint of heart.
You should buy as close to a new computer for it because it is an awesome and rare car and you should try and keep it in a real running and driving condition
Oh man! I’m really bummed to see this thing be such a pain. Bring it to the Wizard and see if he can work his magic 🪄. I love this car and want to see it running like a champ.
The SRS airbag warning comes up every time the battery is disconnected or if the gauge cluster is disconnected. Reset the module and that code should at least go away.
You should give Car Wizard a call and ask him to hook you up with *BUG NINJA* -- That guy used to work as a Volvo engineer at a dealership for many many years. The guy knows a lot about volvos. He would definitely be able to help you.
If you keep the V70R you'll have plenty of content on all of the repairs that are needed to get the car running. Or you could send to the Car Ninja and have a running and driving V70R.
As expensive as it can be, I would honestly recommend taking it to a dealer for electrical work. way too delicate and too much of a headache in my experience.
TBH I would never take it to the dealer for that. I would take it to an independent you trust like the Wizard for sure. Dealers will not diagnose and fix individual issues. Dealers will usually only do things like complete computer and wiring harness replacements. On this car it would likely be thousands of dollars. Many thousands.
The dash errors won't go away unless you clear them via vida or similar. That hose you replaced go to two one way valve that can fail. Sounds like a wiring issue. Get a vida and dice unit will help you lots on diagnostics
@@ElliottAlvis there is a vida dice fb group. There is a wealth of knowledge and people who are will to help. I do know the dash cluster can fail too, but likely to be the cem. Sorry can't be more help than that
Try replacing the cars battery and reset everything. I had the same thing happe. Also had a bad alternator too after that but the battery kept it from showing cluster when driving. I think they do it to conserve power to get you where you need to go
Check all wires, redo your grounds, and if it' s really the computer problem than try a junkyard or anything else than the one you got right now and your ''canada shop''
