Replacing Your Tank Valve O-Ring - Scuba Tech Tips: S07E15 

Glad you like it and hope it helps. Loved my visit to Fiji. Lots more tips to keep you away from the resort prices. A

Glad you enjoyed it!

My pleasure William. A.

Good to hear Mike. I think you'll enjoy the DM course. Here's where your diving knowledge and skills come together. Have fun. Alec

Glad I could help

Scuba pro's have a similar tool as they do it several times a day. Hope new divers understand how to get it on without damage. A

actually we are all still waiting for dry suit episodes...undergarment being one part.

Welcome underwater stuff. Alec

Добро пожаловать. Спасибо за просмотр. сельдь

Trident scuba calls the ribbon rescue tape, part number FA64

Sounds like a good device for shops doing lots of tank valve services. Always use non-adhesive wrap, like silicon tape. Do not want anything sticking to the threads. Thanks for sharing Chris.

You're right. In actual service mode we use a special threaded plastic cap that goes into the tank whenever the valve is not there. We also brush and blow off any dirt before and then after the valve is loosened but before it's removed so nothing that might have been around the valve falls in. Good that you noticed that. Alec

It can be depending on the torque used to tighten the valve (assuming proper limits and not gorilla strength). A

They're very similar. I've used the OTS and found it very good. Alec

Good question. 1. Stainless is not stainless and would soon start to breakdown, particularly in salt water. Brass however, will never corrode. 2. Stainless is much harder to work with os it would be a big job to machine a valve with all the passageways. 3. Cost. Stainless steel is twice as expensive as brass. Take care. Alec

If it says "Scuba Tank Yoke Valve O-ring" then it should be right. The actual specs are: ID x CS : 12,42 x 1,78 mm. Check out this link for all things o-ring related: scubagaskets.com. A

If the tank is good (VIS & Hydro), then a modern 'K' valve can be fit if the threads are not tapered like in old 72's. The only valve options are if you want it convertible between yoke and DIN via a threaded insert. Thanks for watching.

Sure did. Search for scuba tech tip video, S08E08, Tanks #2, Visual Inspections. Thanks for watching. Alec

If you mean when opening a tank, use 3 fingers until it stops, no more force (not needed). It also help when closing as there is no effort to start the valve closing. A

@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Thanks so to tighten the knob only three finders tight not even snug right

Each manufacturer sets the recommendation for o-ring replacement when converting from air to EAN up to 40% O2. Some regs are nitrox ready out of the box new so check the product before filing. Otherwise, any o-ring that comes in contact with nitrox has to be changed using the makers service kit that only certified technicians can order. O-ring conversion kits are not that expensive and since a reg is generally serviced annually, maybe more if diving a lot. Talk to your local dive shop service tech about the cost at your next servicing so your not paying too early. Hope this helps.

Take a look at my video S08E08 Tanks visual inspections for more information. Checking the tank threads is just one of several inspection points. Also looked at is the outside for anything that would affect its ability to flex under pressure. Inside is key for corrosion, pitting, debris, anything that would affect the air quality or tanks safety.

second that. another reason why DIN is actually better :)

You need a very long bar if you would like to remove the valve with pressure inside. The force is immense.

It would be almost impossible. Something would break before the valve moved. Alec

No, of course we let the air out first. but we don't hit on our handles. we just screw a metal bar where the first stage usually goes and voila. A little nudge in the right direction and the valve is loose. Something like this: goo.gl/b2e69w and since it screws in it doesn't matter how the valve is actually shaped.

1. If you're using no more than 32% and only pre-mix then you're fine. There's no real need for Viton O-Rings or any other oxygen compatible O-Ring until you reach 40% or more. If you were partial pressure filling you'd be putting in 100% oxygen. 2. A proper annual visual exam includes new O-Rings in the tank neck and the valve face. The cost is less than $5 for both and why risk a blow-out for that. The tank neck O-Ring is under constant high pressure so gets very distorted. The valve face O-Ring is exposed to sun, salt and water so alos breaks down quickly. 3. How do you know if your dive shop changes them? Because they always show you the used parts that they replaced right!! Or they should. Take care Alain. Alec

I bet they don't. Never have seen old parts but I also didn't think to ask if they change orings. I will now.

Tell them you're keeping a record of your reg's performance and maintenance and want the old parts back. A

Tank valve makers generally agree to not 'thread the o-ring' onto the valve. Reason is as the valve turns it can cut or mark the o-ring making a small leak possible. Stay tuned in 3 video's from now a new video on 'properly install a tank valve' is coming. I discuss your question and answer many others. Thanks for watching.

For most recreational divers, pure silicon grease, food grade, is fine. If you want, an oxygen compatible grease is good too. Any dive store can supply appropriate grease in any size from 1/4 oz to 2 pounds (2 pounds will service about 500 regulators!!). Take care. Alec

Can someone answer this? I would love to know if I can drop these in the ultrasonic bath?

Hello 😊

If you have the proper wrench to fit the valve that's what to use. The problem is that valves are not a standard design. Some have wrench flats; many do not. Even for those that do you'd need several different wrenches so what happens is someones uses an adjustable wrench and proceeds to ruin the flats or even the valve. You wouldn't believe what I've seen! So, used carefully, a rubber mallet works well on every valve. There are wrenches made that fit down over the valve from above. They have 3 or 4 strong fingers that fit against the sides of the knob and allow you to use a standard 1/2" socket wrench. They also allow you to use a torque wrench which is good. But again, you would need several to fit all the different valve designs and they simply don't exist. A good machinist could make a set but the value in doing so isn't there. No one would buy them. The different color of a Viton O-Ring or any other special purpose O-Ring isn't dye. It is the result of different material used to make the O-Ring. You can read on the internet about the different O-Rings available, what they are used for and what they are made from. Thanks again for watching Mars. Alec

franklin.chem.colostate.edu/glassguy/viton.html

If asking about the tank valve thread, all modern valves are 3/4”-14 NPSM standard inlet threads. Check out tank valves here: www.xsscuba.com/xs-scuba-valves/xs-scuba-pro A

Good tip. When I did service all replaced parts when onto a small bag given to the customer to show ALL the parts replaced in the service kit bag the new parts come in. Funny to see them look at it and count all the big & small o-rings as if they would know i missed one. Also proves to the customer nothing was reused.

Alec Peirce Scuba I do that on VIP’s but now I’m upping my game and doing it on regulator service. Thanks Alec stay safe up there. Could you do a video on the clips that hold the two half’s of a two hose regulator and the clamp at the mouthpiece and at the regulator.

O-Rings come in several different colors. The newer Viton and other oxygen compatible rings are color-coded. I've not seen green O-Rings but I'd suspect they're similar. Alec

But you would miss my amazing humour!

Your right Caleb, my decades of experience includes 1,000+ scuba tank valve on/off services. So let me share that experience in detail and why I use the rubber mallet technique. We agree that tank valves are soft brass, so using anything hard like an adjustable or fixed wrench is not the best. Soft grip wrenches may work for you but require more clamping force and can slip causing rounded flats. The key fact in tank valves is not the tool, but the O-ring. The o-ring is the only thing holding back 3000 psi of tank pressure, not the threads. The Sherwood service procedure SSV-48P for "Recreational Scuba Diving K-Valve", specifies "40 - 50 ft. lbs. of torque", nothing more which is just over hand tightened force. The same service procedure under Disassembly, step 3 states "Remove valve from tank." They manufacture never mentions what on/off tool. It is up to the service technical which method best works best. In my experience, 2 taps with a rubber mallet loosens almost every valve. Consider how much abuse tank valves get when transporting or diving, this is minimal force and cheaper to repair than replacing a stripped valve. Last, in the 2018 Trident Diving Equipment catalogue, page 62, part #SA70 is the only tool listed to remove tank valves, "Rubber mallet for tank valve removal." No wrench or other tool is mention for this purpose in that 436 page manual of everything scuba. My point is the rubber mallet easily removes a valve that is not over tightened. If you have a preferred tool that works for you, keeps your clients from complaining about scratched valves after a service, please do so. I'm sharing my service experiences for everyone to learn something they are not shown in Open Water classes or even Equipment Specialty courses. Hope this was not too long, like my videos, and we shared our experiences for others. Thanks for watching. Alec.