Another great vid. Thanks for all the replies you do. I have the 870, 500 now cleaning a 37. The stock removal to clean is odd. No real big deal. In the field who carries a x long screw driver. But mayby well made enough not to be a issue. Thanks again.
I have a Ithaca 37R 16Ga with solid vent rib made in 1946... good guns I put about 1 to 2 box shells through mine every year... I never really taken my trigger and breech apart ,just to clean it like some claim they do all that to clean out a little powder residue. but what I do was take stock off, barrel off... have large container of Mineral spirits, I flip gun up and soak whole receiver and trigger together in mineral spirits for few days... then blow it all out with compressed air... mine been flawless for last 15 years I've owned it, fires shells off with out a hitch... until I need replace part then I'll have take screws out... I hate marring screws, I refuse buy a gun if I see marred screws, use correct screw drivers, marred screws = gun that been tamper with by inexperience person... they make special bits just for gunsmithing fits gun screws, regular screw drivers ruining screws on guns, I see it all time...
+Jabshier1980 Yeah I will tell people to avoid taking guns completely apart. I'll use varsol for soaking parts. As for damaged screws, it bothers me but at the same time if they are not so bad I'll repair them and that way I can get a gun for cheaper than usual and bring it back to what it should look like.
+Stray03 that is true, they still sell replacement screw on Numrich gun parts for Ithaca 37...nice video, I've had people ask me why so many screws on Ithaca 37s I always tell them do go there unless you really have problem... this is a very good video, explaining and showing the internal guts and heart of one of America's finest made shotgun Ithaca 37s rock!
Jabshier1980 Yeah I have two of them, one I am still refinishing the wood. (trap model that someone decided to shorten the stock on, that bothers me more than screw damage lol). The other was in horrible shape, fixed it up and it runs nice now. Thanks for watching.
You rock man thank you so much for posting this video!!!! I had been trying to figure out how to remove the cartridge slide/bolt on my Itaca featherlight 16gauge model 37, for awhile now but I could figure out how. Even after reading a bunch of PDF's and after market do everything manuals. I knew it had something to do with the pin in the middle of it but for the life of me I couldn't figure out. All the manuals said to do was take a eighth inch screw drivers and pop it out. But it never showed or told where exactly to place it lol. So thank you so much! It was greatly appreciated! Now I can finish the restoration.
Hope it goes well, btw if you are new to rebluing, remember one thing, the steel can never be too clean, once you think it is clean enough, clean it some more, if you aren't then you know what I mean.
They all should come apart the same way, I've seen models ranging from early to late models and although some things change slightly overall, the receiver is basically the same disassembly wise.
I know this is an older vid, but all Model 37s are NOT take-down models. Mine has a threaded barrel. I took it to the gunsmith because I couldn't get it to come apart. He knew exactly what it was. He checked it to confirm, and yes, the barrel is not supposed to come off.FWIW mine is an older (like 60s maybe) hard-chromed riot gun. I believed it was called the "Marine" model (Marine as in ocean, not USMC).
+Blue DC127 The only one I know of that is not take down is the defense model. I have never owned or seen one. It is possible that there are other non takedown models, but I don't know enough on the subject to say other than what you mentioned. Thanks for watching.
Very helpful in taking apart my Remington model 17/ 20 gauge. I couldn’t find a video on how to remove the forend. I tried tapping the part on the mag tube that the barrel attaches to but not very hard for fear of damaging something. Any videos you have that shows how that come off? Thank you for all your videos, I also cleaned my model 10 and 760 Remingtons watching your videos. Keep them coming!
You are lucky to have one of those shotguns. Rare to find now. If you are talking about the piece that lines the tube up with the barrel then once the screw is out of it you should be able to slide it off. With time it will usually glue on there with corrosion or junk so giving it a good soak in something that won't remove the bluing should help. If you have something soft slightly prying it at the connecting point will sometimes help it break free. I'm sure I have a video showing it come apart but I really couldn't tell you which one it has been a while.
I’m not sure if I can take a picture of the part or not but I don’t see we’re a screw attaches the part to the barrel. I was able to clean the receiver and mag tube. Previous owner use some type of White Grease to lube the gun and it got everywhere. I used a engine degreaser and lots of rags and nylon brushes to loosen the grease up and kept spraying the parts down until all the grease was gone. Put a heavy coat of REM. Oil on the parts and let it soak in. Wiped the excess off and reassembled. Thank God for your video because the bold and extractor install kicked my butt, I swear I watched that part of your video 20 plus times to get it right and a lot of patience😂. I watched your Ithaca model 37 video to do the Dis and Reassembly. We’re can I get parts for that gun I’m missing the small spring and ball bearing on the part on the barrel. The mag cap has the indentations on top of it that clicks on that ball bearing when tightening the barrel back on the gun.
Hey man good video. Used it to take mine apart. Came apart without an issue...going back together, now I have a problem. The retainer screw that holds the trigger to the rest of the action won't line up. It's off by maybe a millimeter but I'm too scared to line it up with a punch. Any ideas?
+Ryan Thelander you talking about the main screw holding the trigger group in? it should go in smoothly no need to use a punch, if it is not lining up, take it off make sure everything is in right, and try again.
+Stray03 i have checked everything. i have pull it apart. pushed it back in line. the parts wont let it go any closer. can pics be posted here? ill show ya if i can
Thanks for the video, I have a 37 built in 1970's the last time I took the barrel off to clean it and then put it back on the action started to bind on the open cycle and making it very hard to push back up on the close cycle. Took it apart as per video twice, every thing looks normal and the gun will cycles fine as long as the barrel is not attached but put the barrel back on and the same binding happens. Any suggestions?
Check the clearance of the pump to the barrel. If you removed the pump or played with the front end you may have moved a part like the metal ring holding the wood on in the wrong position so it contacts the barrel.
Well I gave it a shot but one of the screws holding the ejector tongs is seized. The other side came right out. Now I need a gunsmith, I presume. Purchased in 1952.
Put penetrating oil on it and leave it a few days. Use blue tack or clay if needed to make a dam around it. Try again. If still not good, Heat it a bit but dont over do it.
Havent seen an original 37 that doesnt. Most just look like they dont because the rubber buttpad returns to its place after the screws are put in. Like a self healing target. Take a rare earth magnet to the side of the stock and you should feel the screws. If you know for sure yours doesnt come off send me a pic of it.
@@Stray03 Thanks, the explains a lot. Yup. Mine has a rubber buttpad and when I pull at it, it feels like I would be tearing it off and ruining it. Also, mine is the Defense version. Just realized that appears to be the ONE model where the barrel does NOT detach.
AnimeFanatic5602 I have no experience with them, but assuming it is using the same mechanism, everything should come out the same way except that the barrel is fixed.
Because it is simple to remove. Remove buttplate then there is a hole down the middle with a big flat head screw in there. Get a long screwdriver and unscrew. That is it.
I've heard they are decent enough, they may have copied the later ithacas that were not slamfire. Unfortunately I haven't taken one apart so I can't tell you if there are differences.
I have owned a few inexpensive guns in the past, and can understand the need to buy them. I’m sorry to say that there is quite a bit of truth in the old adage, you get what you pay for. The steel in a gun made in China is of questionable quality. I would recommend that you sell it, look at a Smith & Wesson 3000, or a Mossberg 3000. These are rough copies of the Remington 870 made by howa of Japan. In a couple of ways that a better gun than the Remington. They were marketed as police riot guns. But never caught on so you can still find them for 250 to 300.
I am having an issue. When I reassembled my Ithaca it no longer ejects/ chamber shells easily. It is very rough. I thought maybe I over tightened the lifter screws but that has not resolved the issue. Any ideas?
Something may not have gone into position properly. I'd strip it apart again and check that every part moves freely as I install them. Probably the easiest thing to do since any fix will require you take it apart again anyways.
@@Stray03 I have tried that. That is how I managed to notice the bottom extractor spring was broken. I have fixed that today but my problem still occurs with the loading process. It is running better now but not as smooth as it was prior to my cleaning.
@@Stray03 only receiver. Did remove the pin holding the bottom extractor to replace the snapped spring. But my main issues are the shells do not always leave the magtube and when cycling the arms do not want to move down smoothly. Before an additional problem was the bottom extractor wouldn’t let go of the shell but with the spring replaced that issue is now corrected.
Make sure the pin holding the extractor is centered and not dragging. Also check your shell holders. The thing that falls out when you remove the bolt. There are 2 and they interact with the carrier one is pinned in. On the back stroke the right one barrel pointed up looking from underneath slides over the ramp on the carrier. On the forward stroke the left one is pushed in. Send me a Pic of the gun pump forward and pump back, view from underneath. Stray03 at Gmail dot com
I have a stevens 350 (copy of the ithaca 37) and the tripper screw won't come out it is loose as can be and feels like it could be pulled out but it just won't pull out.
Rest was just the stock and the barrel. stock you remove buttplate and using a big screwdriver remove the large bolt running down it, the Barrel just needs to be loosened by the nut infront of the mag tube (turn it clockwise to screw it further onto the mag tube) then with the action open twist off the barrel.
mine jams when i load more than 1 slug or w.e, basically i load one it goes in.. and i can put another but not load it just keep it in the chamber so when i shoot.. i basically have two shots but only feeds one cant feed more than two or more.someone help plz
You magazine tube may be plugged to meet the local hunting laws. Some places limit Shell capacity to 2-3 shells, and guns must be fitted with plugs so you can't load more than that number.
There should be two small holes in the recoil pad, in those holes are a couple of screws most likely phillips head (star). push a screwdriver into the holes and feel for the screws.
