RESIN FAILS: What causes partial support fails and how to fix it. 

There's like a whole minute of preamble before he gets to the answer

Glad I could help!

I am aware this tip is a year old, but just wanted to say thank you so much! I kept having miniatures stick to the FEP sheet, and your tip stopped that dead in its tracks.

@@subject153 I'm still around, resin printing hasn't changed in a while, and won't likely change in the future, at least the in the printing mechanic part. Glad it helped you

@@lordfreezer9550 how low would you suggest going?

@@nathanngai3913 can't say a specific number, take your machine/slicer default liftoff and lower it 10-20mm, the printing time increase is negligible specially in the newer 1.5-2s exposure machines

Ha I can't speak for other channels but my issue with the audio in my older videos is that I was working with crappy video and sound equipment (I spend it all on resin and printers) and the fact I know absolutely nothing about video editing. Definitely something I am working to improve when I get back to making new videos after being busy growing a commercial print farm for well over a year.

If its a sticking to the plate issue, use a small dab of 3 in 1 lubricate on the Vat screen. It will help keep the resin sticking to the vat instead of the plate. Also rough up the plate a bit with 120 grit sandpaper.

You may not be able to eliminate that, but things that help are using the better nfep and slowing your lifting speed (which also helps fep longevity).

Also wondering about heating solutions that don't require an in-depth diy heater project.

Reptile enthusiasts have a LOT of different warming solutions that often can be dialed to fairly exact standards. Pads, rocks, standard light bulg heat emitters (not infrared bulbs, but those as well),

My house is about a hundred years old, so kinda chilly in my office where my printers live. I preheat the resin either by sitting the bottle in a sink full of hot water, just enough so the bottle doesn't float, or put a sheet of aluminum foil in my fdm printer and turn on the bed, then sit the vat of resin in there for a few minutes. Unless it's stupid cold, the resin should stay warm enough during your print since it's making its own heat.

Check your cable connections to the screen. Most likely you, have a ribbon cable that is poorly connected. Could also be a loose power connection to the uv array. If it's neither of those, then there is either a bad chip or bad solder somewhere or software glitch.

That could even be a bubble issue. A full vat that keeps things fully submerged doesn't allow air in until it is likely smaller less air catching parts of things like minis. Starting with a low level in the vat quickly has air trying to whoosh past the starts of minis, which is more force and more possibility to erode thin supports. Having some burn in layers and rafts helps get that temp up early, so I stick with at least 4 layers on my machine to get that temp up before thin supports start being created.

Sort of. How much depends on the resin and amount of over exposure. Transparent resins tend to bleed more, while resins with pigment particles tend to bleed less (depending on how they absorb uv). For the best visualization, use photoshop or gimp and use the intelligent selector tool to make a selection that follows color edges. Choose something with jaggies and bites and corners. Now use the selection menu or right click and choose expand/grow selection by 1 pixel. Notice how everything grew just a tiny bit. Keep doing this and you will notice things tend to get rounded, so a sharp edge will have a tiny radius instead (eventually almost becoming a circle), bites and valleys have both the bottom and the sides expand so they get smaller and shallower. On the model those things will happen (entirely to the degree of overexposure), deep details will be slightly shallower, and because things bleed in all directions (diffraction), the closer the gaps close up deep details and shallow subtle details will no longer have crisp edges to pop, so they will nearly disappear. Note that this effect always happens a tiny bit, even at good exposure settings. But it is miniscule and fills in the tiny gaps between pixels. The more and smaller the dots, the smoother that bleed is too, which is part of why tighter higher-resolution screens tend to be substantially better at tiny crisp detail.

I've had the same. I think it's over curing it, or curing it too much on one side at a time. Have you tried curing in water? Gives a more even cure and takes less time

@@chazzer666 No I have - how long do you leave it in water curing with UV light or sunlight

@@spiritofprogress1937 I'm still trying to work out the best curing times. I think I was over curing before so now I do about 5 mins for large ish pieces in water with a nail UV light. Using Anycubic water washable resin

Happy to help :)

All the pro's I have watched on youtube say exposure tests are a great place to start, but then you go by the actual models you print. Change your settings so the models you print don't fail and don't lose all their detail and quit worrying about "but the exposure test model..." Also try slowing your lifting speed. It could be under exposure, but it could also be that it is breaking off. Also make sure your lifting heights are enough. If the model doesn't come completely loose, it can overexpose and form super bonded layers to the fep. Then it will rather break the support connections than release. My personal experience was that I could print with as low as 7 seconds on 1 exposure test before seeing flaws. And I could print models I specifically supported myself. By every pre-supported model failed (raft and supports printed fine but the models would detach early in the prints) until I increased exposure to 10s. *I tested halving my lifting speeds, and it didn't help, so that pointed to an exposure problem. Also worth mentioning, if your fep is streched out/loose or way too stiff, it could cause this problem. To release from the active layer, it needs to be like a drum, tight but a bit springy. As the build plate lifts, the fep needs to flex just a little, so it wants to peel the edges and slowly delaminate the layer from the fep. Think of it like peeling a piece of tape up: *too fast and the tape (model) may just break (and it will be hard on your fep/may stretch/dent/tear that too). *don't pull up enough and it won't release, just flex the fep a little. You need enough height for that peel to propagate and fully separate the model from the fep. *pulling too slow is _no problem_ other than time loss: it's easier on the drum, but peeling forces stay low, so you will need a lot more time and possibly a little more lifting height, but gain safety for both tape (model) and drum (fep)

I have the same printer and issue. If its a sticking to the plate issue, rub gently a small dab of 3 in 1 lubricate on the Vat screen. It will help keep the resin sticking to the vat instead of the plate. Also rough up the plate a bit with 120 grit sandpaper. Worked for me.

Thanks!

Did you solve it?

@@jaksoniki partly yes - add more strongrt suports, increase cure time, decrease lift speed

Yup, I got a build video for that armor here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hC5UvITBfP0.html&t=

If possible try to heat the area that the printer is in aswell. We have just had temps drop to 9c here, I place the build plate and resin in front of a space heater or hair dryer to warm them up before printing and it really helps.

@@southaussielad2496 LOL I ended up getting a desk space heater and just heat the area and using the 3 in 1 PTFE lubricant and put a drop on the FEP, smear it all over, then wipe up the tiny bit of excess. Both help keep the viscosity down on the resin and the layer of lubricant helps keep the hardend resin from sticking to the Fep. Thanks though!