I had no idea resin printers were made that big and now I want one lol Oh and here's a tip if you want to make a textured Armorer helmet using an fdm printer. Once it's printed and filled/sanded/primed, get some Liquitex model paste (or wood filler as an alternative) and water it down a bit, to the consistency of thick cream. Then add some medium grit sand to it and mix it well until you have a thickish paste. Get a medium sized round paintbrush (the coarser the better) and stipple on the liquitex mix on the areas you want to be textured. Once that's done you can start adding whatever paints you use for finishing. After you're done painting it, just hit the textured areas with a brown or black wash and you end up with a pretty good result. I wish I could post pics here so I could show you it, but might be worth trying on some scrap plastic to see if you like how it looks :)
Scrolling past the thumbnail too fast, I was super excited at first thinking this was a Chig helmet from Space: above and Beyond. But Marrok is okay too.
I actually just got done fully resin printing my Enoch armor and helmet. Besides being more expensive, I thoroughly liked not having to sand FDM print lines. I made my walls 2.5mm thick and seems to be a good place between strength and weight. Thanks for the cool video!
Having forged many helmets, a helmet that is properly shaped to your head can be upwards of 5-6kg and can be worn comfortably for extended periods. Most extant historical pieces in this style were around 3-4kg of steel. Half that mass of resin is no problem at all and, aside from the heat and mild claustrophobia, could reasonably be worn all day. The file itself could honestly be half the thickness it is - it's way thicker than necessary, which would likely cut the weight down to 1.2-1.5kg The wide hat has the problem of creating a lever arm with your neck as the fulcrum. An actual helmet doesn't have this issue.
Cool but I can already tell you as I have done some cosplay props and armor, weapons and such, the lingering smell is what makes it bad. The size and weight can be a bad thing too as the props, helmet, etc. will be way heavier than say using PLA, but as someone who is resin printing almost everything I will say it's the one thing I don't do for wear. Decorative sure, but the smell will linger even after curing, cleaning, painting, etc. so even if it is light, you will be inhaling that lovely scent every time you wear it. Nice project though, god I need that wash and cure machine, I am using the older 2.0 and the smaller one, I need this for big stuff.
Wow the finish came out amazing, really sells the cast-iron look. If you're concerned about overall durability for other pieces you could try something like 20-25% Siraya Tech Tenacious resin mixed in to give it more flexibility.
Nice paint job! My biggest concern with large format wearable costume pieces is durability. Most ABS like resin is quite brittle. One drop and the helmet will most likely shatter. That said, I think resin printing a “master” to be molded and cast in a 2 part resin is a viable alternative. You can get the benefit of detail and limited post processing with UV resin along with the resilience of cast resin.
There are quite a few resins out there that can withstand a lot more than a drop. If I was planning on actually wearing this piece then I would have changed what resin it was printed out of. But yes, resin printing a master to cast is a great option. Just wanted to explore the possibility of the resin piece being the final product for more hobbyist makers that probably wouldn’t want to bother with the casting process.
Currently finishing a much delayed full sized bd1 from Jedi Fallen order in abs like resin. Have made my wife mighty thor gauntlets also. My biggest issues with resin printing is smell and mess. Been using the Sunlu Abs like and its plenty tough imo. I've yet to try heating the supports to remove them.
This kind of textures can be added using some putty on a perfectly smooth helmet. Or just use the same technique you used for texturising resin helmet.
Hi great video. To lower the weight and keep the resin detail why not build the mask using different techniques? Build a structural mask base (Skeleton, Skull) with KEY points in a standard 3D printer using PLA or ASA. Print the Skin in Resin with corresponding KEY points. This procedure would also give you a standardised head fitting that would accept multiple KEYED character/skin designs. Patent ER 2759 pending 4/3/24 Aus.
Only thing to be aware of is if any of the parts held on with magnets fall of they will shatter when they hit the floor, unlike petg. I would only use resin for display props or to use to make moulds from.
Very true. Although there are more “tough” resins that are slightly flexible and much less prone to cracking. For anything that would become a wearable prop I’d probably mix in at least a bit of something like Siraya Tech Blu if not print it completely in the resin.
I see some issues with the process you came up with. First is that you hollowed the model but not leave structural supports between outer and inner sides. So unner layer won't support outer layer durabilitywise, so basically you could just delete it to save material and weight. The other issue is the problem with resin 3d printing as a method. I have some experience with large shell-sized 3d prints (basically most of chineese kigurumi mask makers create their mask shells as a resin 3d prints), and those prints are pretty fragile. It can be overcomed by casting fiber reinforced resin inside the piece but if you don't do it you might expect that your creation won't last long (may be a handful of seasons) as if the piece is fractured, the internal stress in the resin will make fracture lines diverge - so it will be very difficult if not impossible to glue back togather.
Just subbed . I run 3d printing content on the tube here and tictok and love your content. Im not at your level yet , I dont do alot of post processing , but will need to as im geting into armor sets now. Keep up the great work and I am in desperate need of a 420mm fdm printer like the Kobra 2 Max or Neptune 4 Max. The T500 would be a dream but very pricey .
I was quickly skimming through this video at first and got excited thinking you were going to be doing a pre-textured Armourer. Is that a file available somewhere?
Yes, it’s this one: www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1469258976/armorer-the-mandalorian-helmet-3d-print?ref=share_v4_lx At some point in the (hopefully) near future I will be finally making one.
Good morning! Very nice video - good visuals on your work. I recently acquired an M3 Max. It is not in my hands yet, but I would like to prepare it before I get it, so it starts off with little or no hitch. Is there a profile or something I can use that you could send me, or share your settings? It looks well set and I would like to start off well. i will be using Water washable resin as alcohol is expensive. I appreciate your time.
Nice job but one thing... Drop your helmet on the floor and it will probably shatter like glass. An FDM printed helmet might crack but not shatter. I know because I made my grandson a Batman helmet and during the assembly process i dropped it and it shattered. You could have gotten the same quality in FDM since you were adding the worn and battered look.
If I had been planning on actually using the helmet I would have printed it out of a more durable resin. There are plenty of options out there these days that can withstand far more than a simple drop.
Has there ever been a two tank or three tank multimaterial resin printer? Like make a layer in opaque resin, wash and then go to the other tank to use clear resin for integrated visor?
Any chance you put drain holes in the hollowed out parts? If not, the uncured resin that's trapped inside will eventually melt through the outside layer and make a big mess. Ask me how I know!
Does the resin continue to off gas any bit after curing, or even some off gas from uncured resin from inside the hollow. Amazing job on the helmet, just curious
At first glance I think it's too big of an object and doesn't need the ultra fine detail of MSLA resin printing. I mean a helmet will be looked at from at least maybe 2 feet away... I won't be taking a magnifying glass to it and looking at every tiny scratch and bump. But that said, the only true way to tell would be to print the same exact model with FDM 0.4mm printer and put it side by side. Besides that the finished helmet looks great!
resin printing was my first choice since there are virtually no layer lines. the only downside is doing the double alcohol wash and the smells associated with it but its not that bad. sometimes you have to divide models in resin printing and think about how to hide the faces of the model that had the supports connected to it so you can hide the rough spots on the model but other than that resin is king. wow you went overkill with those supports haha
When you say 0:10 "less post processing..." and assuming you meant less than FDM: Are you taking into account the wash and cure which is not required by FDM?
Yes, I was referring to the time savings compared to FDM prints. The wash and cure process probably takes at most an hour depending on how many pieces you can wash/cure at once. It’s hardly any time at all compared to the hours/days most likely saved on sanding and smoothing an FDM print compared to the same process needed for SLA. No matter how good of an FDM printer you have there will always be layer lines.
You definitely could and a lot of people do use resin prints as casting pieces, but for the average maker it’s a process that’s more hassle than it’s worth if you’re only interested in making the one piece.
If you were planning on using it as part of a costume then I’d recommend using or mixing in a stronger, more flexible resin. Something like Siraya Tech Blu, Anycubic tough or a little Superflex mixed in. If it’s just for display then ABS-like resin is fine.
Not trying 2 mansplain or "ummm actually..." anyone but i wouldnt suggest hollowing something this thin. youll save some resin but not much. also I didnt notice but if theres holes for the resin to come out of this hollow piece it will eventually crack and leak resin. Ive dont it , it has happened to me. That said i like the piece ,its clean too. GJ
The problem was the helmet walls weren’t thin enough or I would have printed them solid. The top of the head piece is 20-30mm thick which would have been insane to keep as solid resin. I believe it was sliced to have at least 3mm thick walls which is typically more than sufficient for strength when hollowing resin, especially for a display piece. And yes, there are a lot of large drainage holes on the parts that were hollowed; they were all just placed on the inside of the pieces as to not be visible later on.
It would really depend on the project. This particular helmet wouldn’t necessarily be the best example because you could basically completely overlook smoothing out the print and just add the texture on top. For something like a Mandalorian helmet though, the resin print would already be nearly paint ready other than any attachment seams and small layer/voxel lines. An FDM print could take days to get to the same level of smooth, I could probably prep an SLA version in a couple hours to be paint ready.
this is a great helmet to show off since ive wanted to make and learn abouyt resin helmets, but i was curious about you hollowing it. Are you worried or concerned about any trapped uncured resin inside the helmet?
The most ideal situation would be to have a helmet file that has walls of a thickness that would be realistic to print solid. Unfortunately this particular file gets quite thick in areas and it would have been way too much to print solid. I kept the hollowed out pieces very strong but I still probably cut the resin usage in half, particularly on the top head piece, by hollowing out the model. I placed quite a lot of large drainage holes on the inside of the pieces in various locations that allow the piece to almost empty itself out as it prints. I do make sure that everything is cleaned well and that no additional resin seems to be leaking out before curing, painting, etc. I’ve never personally had a piece crack on me due to uncured resin so it seems to be working.
@@MMsPropShop alright got it, I didn't see the drainage holes when you were making it and I've seen a lot of videos lately of resin stuff just randomly breaking or bursting. I was confused why I didn't see any of them in the video😅
@darkpanda0220 no worries! I’m not sure if any are really visible during the video as most of the time you see me working on the front/outer side of the pieces. I see a lot of people put in way too small/few holes in their prints when hollowing pieces. If you can get away with hiding more or larger holes on your pieces then definitely try to go that route. It makes cleaning a lot easier.
I’d recommend a tougher resin like Siraya Tech Blu, or Anycubic’s Tough resin. You could even mix in some Superflex resin into an ABS-Like to give it that extra flexibility and durability.
I appreciate the testing, but this seems really impractical. I get the same detail on my FDM, since it's a helmet. I've printed out the grabber mask from Black Phone and it had more detail than that helmet. You also did resin to get the detail, but you then added more detail. Which if you thought FDM couldn't do it, you would post process that the same way.
If the pieces have been properly cured it shouldn’t be an issue. You can always create some sort of barrier with paint, etc. if you were concerned about any possible direct contact.
Toxic fumes and materials, over the longer term huge failure rate. Not a fan of resin printing large props anymore because of it. A failed fdm is just a few cents/dollars. Resin is potentially like a 30-40$ loss
