That is really good work. I initially thought you might have to replace the broken spring on the windup alarm but you fixed it by hooking the ends together. Great restoration job.
Good job indeed. But always remove the mechanism from the case first, remove the balance wheel, and then unwind the mainspring. Never remove the plate with the mainspring having tension in it because it may bent pivots, damage teeth...
A little advice for the future - Maybe don't try to reattach broken springs. It can shorten the spring causing it to not hold as much of a wind and also makes the spring weak where the broken parts were conjoined. If you find a spring has snapped, it is better to purchase a new spring. However, if the spring is too specialized, try forging a new one out of spring steel by wrapping a thin sheet of the material around a metal cylinder.
Amazing, the sugar coating preserved the metal underneath it realy well. Almost as if someone did it on purpose, to make a "restoration video" out of it
Часы были в хорошем состоянии - внутри корпуса не было грязи. Как можно восстановить такие часы без запасных частей? После того, как соединили пружину - её не нужно было снова закаливать? Желаю успехов. The watch was in good condition - there was no dirt inside the case. How can you restore such a watch without spare parts? After the spring was connected, did it need to be hardened again? Wish you success.
@@ИзяШнобельман как вы хорошо подметили, снаружи сплошная ржа, а внутри как с магазина почти. Возможно ли такое вообще при полном отсутствии герметичности? А латунь так и снаружи не позеленела...
It nice to watch a table clock in a bad shape brought a worki g piece. it was interesting to see how the main spring was fused. I thought you would heat and rivet two pieces together Great job
How did the back of the clock get covered in a thick coating but the inside look so clean, especially with the gap between the caseback and case. The inside should have been packed solid...
Hello. I mentioned in the description of the video that I got the clock from a painter, it was stored in a box with other items in his garden. Regarding the inside of the clock, the cover and the case doesn't have a large gap between. It is less than 1mm. That's why the interior looked in good condition
@@RestorationInside вы просчитались. Да между крышкой и корпусом зазор мал, однако вы умолчали о 5 технологических отверстиях в ней. 2 от перевода стрелок и будильника,2 от заводных валов и одно для выставления точности хода. И если эта вещь из сада, то она бы сгнила полностью за 15 лет т.к. испарения воды проникли бы повсюду.
@@RestorationInside No worries as soon as I learn to edit I am going to start up my own youtube channel I ordered the soft ware but the stupid post office lost it the seller is sending me out another . I am sure I am going to screw up big time. Keep up the good work my man you have pride in your work that is very hard to find
Excelente trabajo 👍 quedó muy bonito sin pintura te saltaste varios pasos como el del armado y el papel donde marca las horas pero eso no quita que lo restaurante muy bien . Suscripto y like , saludos desde Venezuela ciudad de Maracaibo siuuuuuuu.
Ruhla is a 150 years old clock makers brand from the small town of Ruhla / Thuringia. During the era of communist east Germany - the DDR - they produced large numbers of cheap wall / alarm clocks and watches, that were then exported to West Germany and sold via the huge mail order shop Quelle. So was this alarm clock most likely too. Since it has plastic parts already, I would guess its from the 60s or 70s. They literaly made millions of those, and since they were not as valued as other brands like Junghans, they mostly gone into the trash. Ruhla clock manufacturers are one of the few brands that survived the German reunification, and still exists to this day. But their products are much more sophisticated now: I own a radio controlled, full titanium case, analog/digital wrist watch from Ruhla. Really nice.
A few things to keep in mind when repairing clocks. Keep in mind that none of this is meant to discourage you, but instead to provide knowledge for future repairs as it should be a valuable skill to be shared by all. First, the pivots do need oil. A very small amount off oil, but it's neessary to make sure it lasts and runs well over time. Clock oil is recommended but a sweing mahine oil works okay as well. Second, I noticced the beat wasn't as smooth as it should be, implying there was something wrong with the balance wheel or hairspring - it wasn't a "tick, tock, tick, tock", but rather a "tick-tock, tick-tock". Third, is that most clockmakers will keep the original dial even if it's weathered or otherwise damaged from the ages; old dials have character and swapping them out is generally frowned upon, though it is your clock so you do you. Fourth, is that the finish on that clock body is kind of bad. You can see that while you did try to polish it, what it really needed was a light panel beating to knock the larger kinks, then a sanding up to maybe 2000 grit and then a final hand polish. You would also want to nickel plate the body to avoid it being tarnished and stained, then maybe a final gold plate to bring that colour back. The face ring needed a higher polish, as well. Time and care are your friends when creating a new surfface finish. A final point is not to mess with the bell. Even if the bell is pitted, painting it or using filler would dull the ring on that bell and ruin the sound. Perhaps a new nickle plated coat? Criticisms aside, I love how you made a new part using a drill in a vice as a lathe. If you want to pursue small parts for repair, then you can get much higher quality parts with a mini lathe and they are not very expensive - they can be modified to become very good workshop items.
You did wonderful work, mechanically. I wish you'd spent more time making it look better. Brass could've been brought to a better polish and I wish you hadn't hand painted the metal on the back. All that said, I don't know squat about clock mechanics. And I appreciated replacing the plexi with glass. Nice work!
Like most of these videos the item has been artificially aged thats why the surface is never rusted or pitted looking at the residue on the clock its been sprayed with caustic soda
Very obvious, it's artificially aged. Who are these people deceiving? Do they think that we are daft to the extent of believing all these CRAPS? Hmmm 🤔
@@quinney999 it is not worthwhile arguing against the truth. There are many restoration channels where the objects are truly old and worn. Just enjoy real work instead of someone faking it.
I guess you didn't watch video part while testing the clock mechanism. I tested the clock mechanism before mounting it, check video at17:58, then you will see how it works.
@@RestorationInside yes i seen that but that isnt gonna wake you is it lol, what makes the alarm sound, is it the case as i don`t see a bell, that is my point. you tested the mech outside the case did you not? so when the alarm goes off (assembled) what is makeing the ring to wake you?
This type of alarm clock usually has a clacker which hits against the inside of the case. The spring which he "repaired " was the alarm spring. How the hairspring survived the restoration is a miracle, he had the success/failure of the restoration right there in his pliers😖
Sorry, but you have to be watchmaker or clockmaker to properly repair this clock. This mainspring repair is unacceptable. You should unpin balance hairspring before taking movement apart. Clean parts in ultrasonic bath with clock-cleaning solution, rinse in clean benzine (naphta). Hairspring after assembly not concentric and not in plane. This is UMF Ruhla from DDR
Old alarm type clocks had luminous dials that were painted with radium this radium peels or powers off and can be found in the old clock. Radium can cause cancer when breaded in best to open these clocks outside and blow them out.
Hi there, regarding the assembly, i idn't got enough time for video editing, that's why it was not presented. I want inform that i recorded the project as it is.
I have a theory why the front and sides were so bad compared to the back and inside. As it was kept in a shed, I think the owner may have at some point rested brushes with varnishes/resins on the face, because usually you can peel it off of glass. But they never actually cleaned it and kept using it as a brush rest, so the face ended up completely covered, the sides were dripped on, but the back and inside stayed relatively untouched.
Well i got the clock from its owner as it was, regarding the back and the inside, the gap between the cover and main body part is too small, approximately less than 1mm. That's why the inside doesn't contain lot of dirt.
I have one like this, very simillar but made in ussr. I have restored it on my channel, you can take a look if you want. Nice job, i like the new paint
