Excellent job....I would give you a 10 out of 10 if it wasn’t for the use of those old fashion rivets instead of the ones with round heads.... so, 9.9! 👍
Excellent job....I would give you a 10 out of 10 if it wasn’t for the use of those old fashion rivets instead of the ones with round heads.... so, 9.9! 👍
It’s very nicely done ✅ !! They don’t make steel toys at all anymore !!! The steel toys hold up in value !!! Nowadays , the toys are made of very breakable plastic which wears out and doesn’t hold up in value at all !!! Thank you 🙏 !!!
A really nice restoration/custom. I would probably have just restored it to original condition but the modifications look rather good and add "play value".👍
Brilliant work mate do you know where i can get a front chrome grill for 1 of these. I just bought 1 grill is missing and new sticker are needed. Thanks for reading
Looks good. I have a couple of suggestions though. I would like to see you take a little more time in getting rid of the rust pitting. It's really noticeable .Either use a glazing putty or more layers of filling primer. And I would like to see you use semi tubular rivets rather than those god awful pop rivets.
I agree, the pitting was noticeable. Should have sanded the bare metal. I use Bondo Spot Glazing Putty. Not trying to put anybody down, just making positive suggestions. I learn something each time I restore and by watching other people.
@@johnblanton9969 I know you were, you gave constructive suggestions like I tried to do. I was just stating that I wasn't being critical in a negative way. I appreciate and welcome critiques and suggestions on my work. "New" eyes can see things I have overlooked. I think I have progressed each time I have restored from learning from past attempts. Others have already experienced things and can speed up the process of consistent improvements on projects. I did not mean to sound like anyone else was out of line, I can only speak for myself on my intentions of giving helpful suggestions. We all noticed the lack of surface prep immediately, I learned the hard way. He did a good job, but what we noticed can make it even better.
Pięknie zachwycająco spokojnie i profesjonalnie wspaniale się tego ogląda wspaniale starannie to robisz po prostu piękny poranek Pozdrawiam serdecznie Robert z Polski
This is a brilliant restoration! Every detail such as the grill and the rims, has been carefully executed. A comment nonetheless. Filling after sanding the base coat, can improve the qualty of the topcoat.
You do good work. But as the others have pointed out, the pits in the metal let your work down because it winds up showing up through the paint. The simplest way I have found to tackle that, if you can still see the pits in the metal through the primer, you have either overly thinned your primer or you haven't laid on enough coats. Lay the primer on a little thicker. That will help you a lot. Once you can't see the pits through the primer, then sand the primer with a red scotch bright. The scotch bright will make the primer slick and smooth. Lay on one coat of paint and then check your work. If you can still see a pit here and there, don't lay on anymore paint. Sand the whole thing with a scotch bright pad. Lay the primer on in the spots you see until they disappear. Lightly sand it again and lay on another coat of paint. If you've done your job right it will look smooth and no pits will shine through your new paint. I've tried using modelers putty to fill pits. To me, it's a lot of extra work when using putty. It's less work to use a little thicker primer. You will get a more even coat and the pits filled at the same time. If you do good work and you happen to decide to sell, it will sell better if all the pits are filled the right way and you use the right rivets to put it back together. To Most collectors and buyers using the wrong rivets are a big NO_NO. Being able to see the pits through the paint, it makes people wonder about the quality of the metalwork under the paint. Take a look at this joke that's for sale on eBay. It's hard for me to believe that this guy actually thinks this will sell at the price he wants. www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Pressed-Steel-60s-Structo-Sanitation-Dept-Hydraulically-16-Dump-Truck/174074611714?_trkparms=aid%3D555021%26algo%3DPL.SIMRVI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20190827085352%26meid%3D46e6cd32d1a147e5ac681b1687b6b322%26pid%3D101112%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D13%26sd%3D202640141151%26itm%3D174074611714%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2557460&_trksid=p2557460.c101112.m1982&fbclid=IwAR0v0WTaqycb3ZcuKXUOvd1PEEkzTNKxAi4LL-nn8hgjP1RF0HDt9iCAXdw
Very nice restoration. At what years do you stop testing for lead paint? (I.e., stripping the paint vs. sandblasting, and then finding a safe way to dispose of the lead?)
Not sure of the maker of these toys but the type seems familiar, I think they were available in five and dime stores before Tonka really took over the market. Nice work and the restoration came out quite well. Thanks for sharing this video with us and keep them coming.
Nice work. I suppose people would bitch if you didn't stick to original colors, but I'm not a fan of the white. I'd have gone with the orangeish yellow or yellowish orange most such trucks usually are in the real world. That's just me, some people feel like you always have to go back to original colors. I don't.
@@MWRestoration looks white on my screen. it's beautiful work, don't get me wrong, but white just does nothing for me. I do have a color vision problem, so I may not be seeing it correctly. I cannot really see green or brown and many purples give me trouble. If something is a blue green, I see only the blue. therefore, I like blue, red, and yellow, maybe orange, but anything with green or brown in it, I don't see it right. People without this problem will never understand. about 50 percent of men have this problem to some degree or another.
Классные раньше игрушки были,на них верхом можно было ездить или канавы копать как этим ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9RqqDxz9GtU.html
