Oem+ brake upgrade for the 04 rcsb. 05+ silverado front calipers off of a truck with rear drums 99-06 rear dual piston calipers off a tahoe or suburban 1500 4x4
I have an 05 extended cab with drum rear and the bigger front calipers. A friend of mine had an 02 with your brake setup. Even with the rear drums mine stops VERY respectably with powerstop z36 pads and rotors, and well adjusted drums with good shoes. With the Tahoe rear calipers and the lighter weight of your truck you should have a really nice setup I'd recommend stainless brake hoses at some point too
I did the conversion last year on my 01 Silverado RCSB RWD using 07 Tahoe front calipers and rotors and 05 Suburban rear calipers and rotors. At first i used semi metallic pads pads but they were way too dusty and causing my front calipers to get gummed up with dust so i switched to ceramic pads front and rear and so far there's been no more sticking calipers. Hope this helps
On my 2005 work truck it's a pain because you can not use 16" or 15" wheels off the 99-04 trucks,only 17" and up to clear the front calipers,nice work man with the caliper overhuaI,I am way to lazy for all that,lol
Nice looking calipers. I think you have to release the air pocket created by the caliper sliding pin boot. I think they have to be "flatter" in the resting position.
@@TyBrink when you put left and right calipers on the table. I noticed the brackets have two holes, other didn't. But the bracket has slightly curved and other is straight one. Can you see it?
@@AP9311 the difference you're seeing is the front vs the rear I think. When I put all 4 together at the end of the video you can see the 2 fronts and the 2 rears.
@@albertquintero5412 i bought mine 7 years ago with 200k paid 10,000 tax title license haven't done much to it it's now in the need of some much deserved tlc replacing brake lines this weekend went with all new soft lines and rear wheel cylinders too new shoes etc. not going to fight getting anything loose and if the hard lines are gone the soft lines are not far behind plus they are like 20 bucks apiece
Major errors here, NEVER use brake fluid for caliper rebuilds and NEVER hammer the piston into bore.. Only use Red rubber grease by Castrol, hydraulic assembly fluid by Centric, Carlson, Raybestos or Silicone grease, all on Amazon or RockAuto. Brake fluid is nasty to handle and is not formulated in any way for caliper assembly.. If piston does not go into bore with hand pressure alone either the wrong assembly fluid/grease is being used or the pressure seal is not seated in the groove correctly. You were better to use the CRC silicone grease to install the pistons, phenolic pistons need more pressure to install then metal and can be damaged more easily if not using the correct assembly fluid/grease. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9kmaWATUM_c.html www.nbsbrakesupplies.com.au/technical-information/why-you-need-to-use-assembly-fluids.html www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6446_6494
I appreciate the input but they're already installed on my truck, working properly, and I'll probably never rebuild calipers again. I was only going off of someone else who used brake fluid for assembly. Some of the pistons went in by hand, but others only needed light tapping to get in. If I would have known there was special caliper assembly fluid I would have used it, but I figured the only fluid that should be in there is brake fluid.
I made the same error on my first rebuild, most all the videos on here are incorrect. Best to use assembly fluid, red rubber grease then Silicone grease.
I'm trying to figure out the purpose of the Red Rubber Grease, the purpose of the rubber seal at top of piston and whether the Red Rubber Grease will mix with the DOT 3-4 fluid and effect the Master Cylinder. Will the grease mix with the fluid?
