Restoring Yanmar Diesel Boat Engine (Part 2) 

Thank you! I am also amazed at how well it all turned out. Thanks for watching!

That is one tough engine ! I never thought you would be able to save the starter let alone the rest of the engine !

@@jackpatteeuw9244 You and me both. It was quite the surprise. Thanks for watching!

Thank you!

Thanks Paul, I appreciate the kind words!

Anytime my friend, thanks for all the kind words!!

Let me know if you have any questions with yours, I'll try my best to help out.

@@FixAndForget Much appreciated!

Anytime, thanks for watching and the kind words!

No problem it's an easy task just don't break any bolts! Thanks for watching & good luck.

Thanks for watching! The motor is still doing great. If you haven't seen part one check it out below: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5fSWkzVpU-8.html

Thank you!

Hi Andre, thanks for watching and the kind words!

Thanks for watching! Yes the primary fuel filter element was changed off camera. The three zinc anodes were removed, cleaned and found to still be in good condition. If you have not already seen it, here is a link for part 1: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5fSWkzVpU-8.html

Thank you for watching and the kind words! Combination of being self taught and being a merchant marine & Navy officer.

Also, if you have not already seen it, here is a link for part 1. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5fSWkzVpU-8.html

Thanks for watching!

Leric from Knysna yacht club South Africa

Hi Leric, if you're sure the issue is timing, you probably want to look into getting service data for the engine. There's a chance you might find it online for free. If you're in a real pinch, look for a timing window on the pump housing and after removing it, spin the motor 360 by hand and look to see if the match marks are aligned. Never rotate the engine with the pump removed unless you are sure you can re-time it. Cheers!

Thanks for watching! There was a layer of oil on top of the water that protected the bottom end. Undoubtedly there was rust on the cylinder walls but not enough to lower compression. Oil pressure is still high, indicating the bearings are fine.

Not required unless the engine is at an angle that would put the oil at or above the level of the seal.

The flex plate (dampner plate with springs) bolts to the flywheel and the transmission splines are inserted into that plate. The bolts on the flywheel ensure proper alignment and the transmission input shaft is rotated until it fits into the flex plate.

@@FixAndForget On a car, you use a "clutch alignment tool" to get the splines of the flex plate (I would call it a damper plate in this case) to line up (concentric) with them pilot bearing. The clutch must be inside the transmission. Could be a dog clutch, could be a cone clutch.

Cone clutch inside transmission (Very smooth shifting !)

@@jackpatteeuw9244 Yes you are absolutely right. I misread your initial question. There is a forward and reverse clutch inside the transmission, therefore no alignment is necessary with the flywheel. Certainly much easier than an automotive application! Thanks for clarifying!

Doesn't sound like that is enough room to work. You will most likely have to pull the engine forward. Good luck

@@FixAndForget noted. Will give it a try and see. If it doesn't work out, will fit back and re-work the plan. Have a small window of opportunity for this piece of work. Will revert with results. Thanks for feedback 😁👍

@Ken Good luck! My concern is if you do get the engine decoupled will you have enough space to get the flex plate and flywheel off. In most applications it isn't very hard to pull the engine forward. In the case of this engine, I used 4x4 blocks to extend the stringers the engine was mounted to and a chain puller rigged to the galley table.

@@FixAndForget noted. Thanks for the tips 👍😁

Doesn't need it thanks for watching!

$3,500 for the engine & transmission.

Thanks for watching! You should go with an German air-cooled Hatz or Deutz it would be more "authentic" lol

Thanks for watching! All worn parts were replaced. Inspection of the engine internals showed no signs of damage or wear. The engine has approximately 400 hours on it and will have no issues making through its expected service life. Your definition of restoration is exactly what was carried out here. Cheers!

I'm busy doing the same engine up as yours, but it won't start, smokes and want to fire but won't kick over any ideas? Maybe my injector timing is 180' out? But I have no idea how to set it? Any help would be great!! Leric, knysna South Africa

@@lerichurn5297 Hi Leric! It's unlikely the timing is 180 out since that is only adjusted with the injector pump removed. First test would be to crack open the injector lines at the injectors and spin the engine over with the starter and decompression levers engaged. Hold the throttle wide open and verify fuel is reaching all injectors. If there isn't fuel to all injectors the pump fuel cutoff is stuck on or one/multiple plungers are stuck. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!

Thanks for your response Asher, I will give it a go. I will message you when I eventually get it going. I broke it right down to the last bolt and nut. Thanks again for your help. Cheers Leric

Hi Asher, got it running, sound awesome, injector timming was out 180' thanks for your and input, cheers Leric, knysna