Last build of 2020, the Revell 1:32 Spitfire was a fun kit to build without any major problems. This build is of the 416 Squadron, Royal Canadian Air Force, England 1944. Feel free to leave a comment.
Excellent job on the Spitfire....terrific painting and weathering, too. Good to see someone building a 1/32 scale (my favourite) plane.....not so common on YT. Will be checking out to see what you have for 2021 and waiting for that notification bell 👍
Thank you for your kind words... 1:32 is my fav scale as well, since it allows for more creativity, more detail... and is easier on the eyes... ;) (the price of age). There will soon be another 1:32 which (I hope) will turn to be a really good build.. However, the next one will (probably) be a 1:72 Lanc... Cheers:)
Fabric control surfaces don’t chip aluminum. Try to research the construction of the aircraft and visualize how it’s used rather than randomly applying techniques.
Nice build, I really liked the underside of the model. Just a personal preference, I think you went a little heavy on the chipping. Not every panel line needs to be chipped, really only panel lines that are used by ground crew should be chipped, along with areas that were used by pilots to access the cockpit, so some areas that should have been chipped weren't. Also, you need to be a little more attentive with the decals, the great big bubble, along with some smaller ones, on the port side wing roundel were very noticeable. Remember, on a large scale model, small imperfections are more noticeable than on the smaller scale ones. Just my thoughts, all in all not a bad build.
Beautifull Bird but ailerons are diferencial devices. One are down and another, ever stay at opposite position... Only flaps UP and down together... Very easy to fix....
What does 50% gray mean in the first pot of paint you show? Do you dilute it with something? Thank you very much for answering . I am a Spanish fan and this model is going to be the 1st one I want to make. I'm going to try to follow your steps. thank you so much
50% (color) means that I dilute the color with paint thinner : 50% color, 50% thinner.. There are many thinners and schools about them, personally I make my own thinner with 70% distilled water and 30% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol). Although Vallejo air are -theoretically- ready to use, I always dilute them to avoid clogging the airbrush. Additionaly, thinned-out paints allow for more coats and better color control. Good luck with your model, thank you for watching!
Up till now I have been put off buying Revell 1/32 kits because of a lack of space and negative reviews I have read and listened to by self appointed “Spitfire Experts “ who seem to have a grudge against Revell. Thank you for a really enjoyable video showing how good this kit is.
Anyone try using a sharpie perm marker for the the pre panelling/shading ? Ive used dark pencil with success , thinking of trying the marker ( with fine tip ) straight lines for one.
That headgear (a visor with variable magnifying lenses attachable) was purchased from a street vendor a few decades ago. There are tons like this in the *well known" e-commerce outlets, either UK/US or the chinese one ;) Thanks for visiting!
Después de poner la capa de aceite . Con el bastoncillo de los oídos. Que le pones mas de aceite o usas otra pintura? Muchas gracias por contestar. Estoy siguiendo tus pasos
Overall a good job. I agree with others that the chipping is excessive. No aerial required. They didn't have them, except, I think from the elevator tips back to where the roundels are. The 'chin' cowling is one piece. You needed filler there.
@@wbpsmodels3452 for me engines mean the fuselage isn't going to go together easy ! . I had real trouble getting the cockpit in exactly the right place , plus the wings were warped and needed super glue and clamps. But great for the price.
I use Vallejo model air acrylics and primers. Use primers prior to painting. Clean surfaces with alcohol before primer. When applying paint, use many light layers; paint catches better.
I'm building this one.... learning new techniques...making mistakes.... correct them...really enjoying myself and learning from vids like this. Right now i'm struggeling a bit with te fitting of the cockpit in the hull. So i took it apart, watched your video again and hoping to do it correct this time.
In my opinion, primer is essential... helps the paint stick to the surfaces... especially with acrylics. Enamels and lacquers, don't need it as much, but for acrylics I find it necessary.
Hi, I have watched a couple of your builds now, and I noticed you keep mentioning things like’50% Vallejo primer’ or ‘50% grey’. I am not sure what you mean by this. Do you mean you have thinned it 50%? Without saying what the other 50% is, it doesn’t mean much.
When I say "50% Grey", it means that the final solution contains 50% color and 50% thinner. In general, I dilute almost all paints to nearly 50-60% color (the rest being thinner) so that my airbrush doesn't clog that often. (It still does but not so much). When I use a color mix, I usually give the analogies of all colors used. Thank you for watching :)
Just a tip: you thin your primer way too much. Vallejo primers can be used straight from the bottle without thinning, but if you feel you absolutely must use a thinner, use way less than you did in this video. Right now you thin the primer so much that it actually becomes watery, and all the pigment is drawn from the center to the edges, which is not what you want when priming, and definitely don't want when using an airbrush because right now the edges become darker than the center. At that stage you might as well just use a brush because you've lost all the feathering qualities that an airbrush provides. I might go as far as to say you've thinned it so much is has become a wash.
You are right on some level but there's no way to keep the airbush from clogging if the primes is not thinned... Second, I prefer to apply the primer (and the paints thereafter) in multiple thin layers so that it grabs better on the plastic... What I should do (and you are right about it) is lower the pressure so that the coverage is even in all areas and build gradually. At the time of the spit I only had a 0.2mm airbrush and clogging was inevitable even with 40% thinner so I had to go way higher... Nowadays, I use a 0.3 mm airbrush for wide areas and I can go as low as 30-35% thinner. Thank you for the comment and thank you for watching. :)
Is this even possible to paint like you if I use only the enamel paint by revell? Or do I have to use two different paints, one based on water and the other enamel, or just use paint based on water?! I tried to do this shadows dffects on my first models but it still doesn't work?! Even I can't to brush such thin lines like you did with the vallejo primer?! Is it the enamel paint that isn't good enough to do such thin lines?
The paint type isn't as important... You can do the same job with either type of paint... There's a multitude of video creators here in YT who use lacquer (or enamel) paints almost exclusively and their builds are way better than mine... The way of application is what makes more difference. An airbrush allows you to have better control over the quantity of paint used and the thickness - it just takes a lot of practice till you can do it. Another important aspect is the degree of dilution of the paint - more diluted paints allow for more subtle effects.
33:00. This Spit has an unusual canopy hood. As far as I know they were equipped with a sliding canopy, but this one seems to have a hinged one. Or is the guiding slot a bit too flat?
For me it is always tricky to mix the airbrush colours. In most bottles I loose a lot of colour because it sticks inside the glas where I mix them. Has anybody some advise for me? I see you use some kind of vaccacine-ampulls?
Indeed they are.. I asked my vet to save me the vaccination vials after he uses them.. I sterilize them in hot water and IPA and then I use them to mix and store mixed paints. I label them and store them... I almost never use paint directly from the original container. See the mini-rack video to see what I mean.
It's made here in Greece by some guy who does this mainly as a hobby... It's made using wood boards and a laser cutter. for the time he is not interested to export.. Thank you for watching!
hallooo...another great jobb!!! congratulation , i watch your video and it sems always so easy!!!...i fineshed a revell model but you are in another planet and i...😂😂 congratulation again for your skills and i'm watting for the next, ciao from Roberto Venezia
This is a great kit indeed.. by the end of the 70s (77-78) I started building the 1:24 spit by Airfix... I never got to finish it... Then I left for Canada (studies abroad) and it was thrown away.. I bought it again in 1988 and finished it in 2019.
Wow, excellent work 👏 I can build the model, but no way that I can do the kind of work on the paint job like you.. I want to build this model for my father, who loves this plane, and are slowly losing his eyesight.. Would be cool to give him this kind of present.. Ah, well..
It doesn't take special skills.. all it takes is patience. You can do it... and after all, it's the sentiment and the motion that counts. He will appreciate it nonetheless! Thank you for your kind words ! :)
Decals by Cartograf, Pianoro, very close to my hometown Bologna and also homeland of Italeri. Anyway the flaps are in a wrong position since in Spitfire they were either up or 90° down, not in any intermediate position.
Yes I was going to say this....unusual for this period. I don't know of any other aircraft where flaps were either up or down. Most pilots retract them just on touchdown to prevent damage.
@@moxxiloquita2048 I don't know what is BEST... I use Vallejo products in general but sometimes I might use Tamiya or Mr Hobby... Usually I mention what I use during spraying in the video.
Hello, from Canada. I am going to be building the Iron Maiden version of this kit. I noticed the goggles you are wearing. I need something similar as my eyes are not what they once were. Who makes them/what are they called?
Hello James.. The magnifying goggles I'm wearing, were purchased from a nameless street vendor, several years ago but I'm sure that if you google the term you'll come across several suggestions. Not to mention that if you join a couple of modelling groups in FB, you'll be flooded in "suggestions" for similar merchandise.
Most likely there are... Eduard does a hell of a job making upgrades for various models.. but I haven't ever purchased any such upgrade kit.. all of my kits are OOB.
The rotary stand is the glass plate from an old microwave oven. The wooden part, is a stand made here in Greece by dome guy who likes to make such things as a hobby.
Not one that I can think of... this kit had option for either wheels up or wheels down. With some kits, I seem to remember that you could fold the wheels in or out... but not this one. I guess it could be done with some scratch-building and modifications... But this is not something I'd try for now.
Thank you very much for an excellent video. I'm currently finishing my Revell 1:48 D.H. Mosquito B Mk.IV and this is the next build in line. I watched the video a second time and made notes of your build process, so I'm gonna try to build in roughly the same order to see what I can come up with. I am however painting with brushes, so I may have to do some things differently, but it will still be a great learning experience.
Thank you for your comment and thank you for watching... :) As for the Mossie... be careful with the landing gear assembly... it gave me a hard time . Again, thank you :)
@@wbpsmodels3452 Yes, the landing gear assembly as well as the mounting of the engines was a nightmare when I followed the instructions... The second motor and landing gear I did my own way and it worked much better. The mossie is almost done, I'm just waiting for Micro Sol and matte varnish so I can place the decals, varnish the plane and then do a tiny bit of weathering.
I realize there are no absolutes in life, but I thought when they increased the horsepower of the Merlin engine in the Mk. IX Spitfires, the planes were also fitted with the slightly more pointed, longer chord rudders, to allow for more directional control over the additional horsepower. ?
The original Mk IX was rushed in to counter the FW 190 and shoe-horned the new two-stage supercharged engine into a MkV airframe. Airframe changes, other than those necessary to get up and running, came later. It was only meant to be a stop gap......
The 'pointed' rudder came with the Mk VIII and continued with the XII XIV etc. You do see many restorations of the Mk IX nowadays with them, as I guess the old Mk V rudders are very rare now. I think there was a pressurised high altitude Mk VI with them too.
The washes have to be "different" to the underlying varnish and colors. Since I use Acrylics for base colors and varnish, the washes have to be oil based so that they can be "washed out" if necessary... Also, oil washes have lower viscosity than acrylics (they are thinner) and go in all small nukes and crevices without leaving a thick layer. Thanks for watching :)
Great to see such a skilled build..just bought one of these and hope it looks half as good! Was worried about the cockpit decals settling in but they look fine. Might not weather it as much but wow! Lots of hints, maybe after 2 years of being back to modelling I might eventually get nearly as good before I retire...
@@wbpsmodels3452 Was about 40 years hiatus for me- so glad I found the fun again before lockdowns..airbrushing is a positive challenge but the results are fantastic and so glad I can watch great videos to take the mysticism away from effects that bewildered me for so long..keep up the good work :)
Fabric covered control surfaces don’t show chipping. Try to research the construction methods used and visualize how the aircraft is used and serviced in the field when you apply weathering. Don’t just random apply the techniques.
