Review of 3D Printer Enclosure made by Creality for Ender 3 size 3D printers 

Tip, use a cheap baby monitor inside that connects to your wifi. I just watch everything from my phone anytime anywhere as long as you have internet signal.

A very good review. Thank you so much for devoting the time and effort of making this video. I ordered enclosure based on your review.

Very well done review ,I see their are some mods that need be done when I make my own. Thank you for donating your Precious time in making the video.

Thank you for the review, much appreciated. This information is very helpful and you butterfly knife skills where a nice bonus keep up the good work.

Nice, this video convinced me to get this instead of making my own 2020 extrusion enclosure. You could flip the whole unit to see the first layer better by having the window at the bottom, but you'd let all the heat out as you open it.

I am SO glad you mentioned the smell! This happens to me all the time. Because it is closed, the smell gets concentrated, so the smell hits like a truck when you first open the enclosure.

I've been using a cheap photo studio tent for my Alfawise U20 for a year now. I put the power supply in there too for maximum heating of the tent. I've been using this setup for a year now and I've been printing ABS and ASA with absolutely no issues with 100°C bed and 250°C nozzle. It cost me around 10 to 20 bucks, one of the best purchase of my life.

I've been thinking about a tent for my Ender 5, but was trying to justify the cost. Looks like it may be worth it. I like the idea of a camera inside to monitor first layer as it could zoom to get a better view than naked eye, but could also print a small mount and hold the door just partly open during the first layer print. As heat rises not too much would be lost if it was only opened a little bit to monitor :). Thank you so much for this video

I got this and it worked fine although not needed for PETG and PLA but I noticed after another upgrade I eventually got jamming or filament breaking at the extruder on longer prints. I realised later the extruder stepper motor was getting hot and my upgrade to Creality's Aluminium extruder was absorbing the heat and causing filament to soften and deform then get stuck or break on retractions....... Just something to note, was a big headache to find.

Nice review. It is a great addition. I've had the large version of this for a few months for my CR10S Pro. Like you mentioned - It instantly solved all of my ABS/ASA/Nylon printing issues for larger prints. I could not get these to stick to the bed (tried glass, glue, PEI etc etc) and now they almost stick too well even on glass. Warping is also gone even for PLA. Best upgrade to my printer setup I've done. As for inside temps - the power supply (Meanwell) fan runs all the time now. My PSU is rated at 50C at full power (500W) and 70C at 50% power so this should all be fine. The other electonics (main board and display) should be ok at 50-60C. I have used this setup with a max ambient temp of 30C so far (inside got to 40C) but summer is coming here in Australia. 40C ambient is imminent and I'll be interested to see hot the inside gets - I may have to open thay ventilation flap at the top. The larger enclosure has the cable entry point at the rear which is more sensible I think. My RaspPi sits outside with the USB cable just going inside. It has no heatsink and would overheat inside I would imagine. Handy tip for lighting: I use a mains powered 10W LED floodlight (from the hardware store) facing straight up and the rear of the enclosure and use a Pi connected Web Camera at the front. The shiny internal walls reflect well and my remote camera video image is awesome with no shadows. No need for fancy strip lighting and such.

I've been using the same enclosure for some time now and still can't understand why there is a flap on the right side but not the left - this makes accessing the extruder for filament changing a real pain! A small hole on the left would also allow filament to be fed in from an external filament dryer. Anyway thankyou for all your work on these videos.

This is a very helpful video because I'm not experienced with 3D printing but currently thinking about buying/using the Ender-3 S1 Pro with ABS and ASA. Thank you very much.

Very good video as usual. You rock! ; )

Hello, by the way, it should be said that in some printers overheating of the electronics causes the motors to lose steps

Great video mate 👍 I got one of these a couple of weeks ago and am loving it. It helps cut down some of the high pitch noise, and I deadened mine further by sticking some 10mm heat proof car sound proofing foam inside (the foil covered type). My ambient temp is around 23 degrees and measuring the temperature near the top of the enclosure I get up to 40 degrees (nased on a bed temp of around 70 degrees). One thing to be careful of is any PLA parts you've customised the printer with can warp in the heat (I need to re-print my Raspberry PI case in ASA now so it doesn't melt). BTW Octoprint with a Raspberry PI and a PI Camera is a good solution for being able to see inside, you will may need to add some internal lighting to get the light levels up for the camera. Definitely well worth the purchase IMHO - well made and really easy to setup.

Greetings from Brazil! I moved my screen outside, the cable was just the right size.I printed a stand for it. I also moved my Raspberry Pi outside. And I would recommend moving the spool holder to the middle of the rail, it seems it will avoid the spool from rubbing into the enclosure. Still haven´t tested it with ABS/ASA, will do it in this weekend. Fun fact: I bought my enclosure about the same time as you made this video, but I left it stored for over a year LOL. I only assembled it now that I am putting my 'definitive" 3D printing space together, as fot the last year I was using my guests room for that. :D Oh, a good addition to the enclosure is a set of LED lights. It helps checking out the first layers through the cover, as well as for filming it with Octoprint. I jutt used cable ties to attach it to the structural tubes (I mounted it into the top front tube, passed the USB cable outside through the side opening, tied everything up with cable ties so it looks neat - light switch is outside of the enclosure so I can turn it on and off anytime I want without opening the enclosure). I bought this one: www.banggood.com/32CM-5W-USB-LED-Rigid-Strip-Bar-Tube-Light-Kitchen-Cupboard-Under-Cabinet-Lamp-with-Switch-p-1410410.html

Thank you for this video it really helped me save money on a more expensive enclosure.

I was interested to see what the stepper motor temperature would have been but you attached the probe to the cover that was over the x stopper switch, the x stepper motor is on the other side of the frame

I use an enclosure for my ender 3, but printing pla and ht pla+. I kept greeting heat creep causing clogs. Mainly because the fan is just circulating hot air to the heat sink. I haven't tried ABD or other materials though.

I use the same enclosure for my Ender 3S1 Pro. It barely fit inside with the controller removed and placed to the side. My PLA sticks to the bed like a champ now and no more warping. I use a small wi-fi camera inside to check on progress. I do plan to modify and make a bracket for the bottom of the printer to vent the electronics with air from outside instead of the hot air inside the enclosure.

I really need the same thing but for the cr-6 SE.. I have to print LW-ASA but no chance with open stock setup.. thanks for that review!

Very good review, thank you

I got the larger version for printing Nylon and Polycarbonate with an ender 3v2. Running a all metal hotend at 280c and a bed of 100c. Ambient air around the enclosure is 22c 50% humidity. Inside the chamber I got it to settle in at a toasty 40c and 10% humidity with just the printer and an hour of preheat. So far prints with nylon have been pretty good. Ideally I would want to get it even higher than that. I am working on relocating my MOBO, PSU, and LCD outside of the chamber with a custom wiring harness and adding another controlled heat source. Hopefully I don't kill any steppers but I think they will be okay below 70-80c.

Very nice review. 👏👏👏

very well presented a really helpful video😃

Great video.👏

Nice review 👍🏼🤗 im gonna order this for My Resin printer ( Anycubic Photon Mono X )

PETG still can warp alot and enclosure if beneficial

seems kinda pricey for a cute little printer tent! Cant argue with those results thought! Airflow is the biggest thing you need to minimise! I use both my printers in Ikea Lacks that are against the corners of a room, I have one side blocked with a removable panel made from chipboard I got in the ikea Spares section, and the front I only cover with some fabric or something when I'm printing warp-happy filaments! works great!

I used laminated glass with 3d printed corner frame and aluminium sheet at back and bottom.

Thank you so much! that is what I want to know.

any concerns about the computer and logic boards also being inside the heater? This is why I wish the boards remained in a box separate from the printer itself.

Thank you for sharing. I'm late to the party... 😅 Just wondering what were your printing parameters? I have an enclosure (COMGROW) and I'm still experiencing some warping when I print ASA. I have a full metal hot end and even tungsten .4 nozzle. I have cooling fan completely turned off throughout the print. I like the COMGROW enclosure better than this one, it has more port holes and they're towards the back (better for the power cord), and one of the holes is round, which looks like I can stick a blow dryer in to increase the temperature higher.

i can see a bit of elephant's foot effect. does that mean i have to adjust the printbed temperature a little bit?

Awesome video, sad is in English but with subtitles incan understanding. Got video of calibrate extruders? And z? I have ender 3 s1

Raspbery PI + Camera is a great solution for this purpuse. Thanks for sharing :-)

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="715">11:55</a> OOF, gangster

I'd advise to move the filament spool to the outside of the printer if you're worried about fire

The window lateral ist not a window, its an opening for psu ventilation.

Got one off Ali express for £28. Not sure if it's a knockoff but it looks and functions great.

I have an Ender 3 V2, wondering if it’s worth buying the bigger version of the enclosure that you bought in this video, the enclosure that is meant for the bigger line of Creality’s printers. This way I might have some more room around the printer to set up a camera and stuff.

this does not make the power supply over heat being enclosed and not have fresh cool air? i want one for my Ender 3 V2 but i am afraid of that

The temperature probe is not on the actual stepper motor at <a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="515">8:35</a>, thats why it just reads the air temperature. Stepper motors get around 70-80 degrees celcius when operational!

Do you think this would be a good enough enclosure for polycarbonate? With a high temp hot end and extruder of cours

Nice housing, I bought it from Amazon, creality brand, but it didn't make a difference when printing with ABS, still warping like the one without the housing. Inside temperature between 34-40 depending on the bed temperature.

THANK YOU VERY OOD VIDEO SVASIBA

What’s the hole dimension on top?

I sure hope you hookled the mainboard fan up to the hotend fan before this.

How do you know what size to get

Well its well known that Asa have less warping than abs, but need more extrude and bed temp, and if yuo going serius ,an all metal hot end(so no ptfe tube)

would you put a webcam inside?

what's the fire proof material? I want to build an ikea lack enclosure with that material

<a href="#" class="seekto" data-time="818">13:38</a> that is not Prusament ABS(T) it is from PM (Plasty Mladeč).

So this is safe to leave your ender 3 running all night etc all zipped up without causing any motor or cct board overheating ?

You should state in the video title that it's an Ender 3 *V2*. I was searching specifically for this, to see how well it fits inside, so thank you!

I have concerns about the heat. I couldn't touch at bottom of the printer even without enclosure. I don't think that much heat is good for electronics in power supply.

about the heat problem 37c is it ok for the power supply and the electronics?

Arra gondoltam, hogy építek egyet bosch profilból és plexiből.. PETG-t szeretnék nyomtatni, de abban a szobában fér csak el a nyomtató, ahol a legtöbbet vagyok, ezért arra gondoltam, hogy ezt a dobozt még kiegészíteném egy nagyon lassú fordulatú ventillátorral, hogy a lehető legkisebb légáramlást keltsem vele és egy hepa szűrővel (vagy a kár kettővel). Ez mennyire lenne butaság? Nem igen találtam cikket azzal kapcsolatban, hogy milyen hatásai vannak a petg nyomatatása közben felszabadult gázoknak, ezért gondoltam, hogy jobb a békesség és megszűröm a kiáramló gázokat. A doboz moga meg lenne emelve, hogy az elektronika elférjen kényelmesen alatta és alulról be lenne vezetve a motorokhoz és a fejhez az összes vezeték.. a tápegység is így kívülre kerülne, így a motorokon kívül minden kint lenne a dobozból. A nyomtató fej körül csináltam egy burkolatmódosítást HT pla-ból.. eddig annak nem volt baja, pedig közel van a heatbrake-hez és a fűtőblokkhoz, így szerintem kibírná a dobozolást is. Van valami javaslatod/ tapasztalatod ezzel kapcsolatban?

Have you ever experienced any power supply overheating problems in this enclosure?

I'm considering buying an Ender 3 S1 to print board game inserts on PLA or PETG. I need an enclosure to protect the printer from my cats. Do you think this enclure is cat proof?

Wondering if this would work for my Anycubic Kobra..

Will there be a problem when i use this with my ender 3s1? And printing abs

I think I don’t need enclosure mi country by default is set to 30 C and when the bed is on 100 I think is like 40 around the printer.

Do you wait for the inside temp to increases before you do a print and for how long?

can also print PLA material inside of that enclosure?

What about the fumes that asa and abs create iam curious thus putting a vent while prenting reduce the temperature? Can you vent it after printing?

70 is way too overpriced when you add up all the materials of that. It's just a $10 clothes closet but with aluminum sheet enclosure.

❤👍

i would be scared the motherboard or power supply would overheat inside a tent like that. i would think both of those would be vented to the outside in printers that already come with an enclosure.

how much quieter would you say the printing was?

Can this work for a flasforge adv 5m?

Doesn't hot air damage the device?

Im using a prusa mk3s this was my first time that i have printed whith ASA filament from Form futura ApolloX i dont have any kind of enclosure the bed adhesion was great but prints came out to brittle, the interlayer bond wasn't perfect....... So im wondering is an enclosure beneficial for this kind of problems ??? Does the print quality gets better ,im referring to rigidity, not esthetics ???

then don't you need to take the power supply out of the enclosure?

the mainbord temp ?

If have bought the creality enclosure for my Ender 3 V2 with 4.2.2 Mainboard to start printing abs and other materials that have problems with warping, but.... if you turn the part cooling fan off, the mainboard fan also turn off, they are connected in parallel so they work the same. Thats a problem because we want to keep electronics cool. This type of materials doesn't use part cooling soo there is a serious problem there. The best way is to connect the mainboard fan to the hotend fan so they run all the time on. Be aware of that!!!!

I mainly want this to protect me from the fumes. Would this tent keep the fumes inside?

Does it help with the noise of the printer?

Can anybody that has cats tell me if this also protects the print from them??

is it worth it?

This costs almost as much as I paid for the printer. 😳

Thanks for taking the time to make your videos. I have a couple of suggestions. Don't play the background music. I think many of us would rather listen to natural sounds of your working on the printer, than to the background techno music which interferes with understanding what you are saying when you make comments. Secondly, as someone that was born in Eastern Europe but came to North America as a child, I can understand you well but others may have a more difficult time with your accent. This is nothing to be ashamed of or even worry about. However, if I can correct you on the pronunciation of "warp": You keep saying "wrap" which means a totally different thing than warp. Warp is pronounced "worp". Not trying to be a jerk. Just want to help you so that people can understand what you are saying. Cheers and thanks again for the videos. Ziveli.

... Today we will make a 3D Printer Enclosure. First you need to print 8 corners. Next you just need to go find 12 sticks, and cut them so they are a bit larger than the sides of your printer. Next you need put the corners and sticks together. Lastly you cover the whole thing with some sheet of aluminium.

FYI.. he means Warping not wrapping

The silly huge logo taking up valuable space through which to see the first layer!

You shouldn't smell ABS fumes

I really dislike the added music. I'm often alone in disliking background music so you ought to check with other viewers if they like it or not. The music almost makes the video unwatchable for me. In general, I really like your videos. I've learned a lot from you. Thank you.

omg just add led lights to the inside lol

This thing its very expensive ...