Wish I’d seen this before wasting my money on several of these cheap things. All ended up in the bin after failure of the contacts at much lower currents than rated.
I have done extensive testing on this marine style of Chinese thermal circuit breaker. There are no specs associated with these parts, they just simply have a current stamped on them and, of the ones I have opened up, all use the same small 50 amp or so contacts. It appears none of these breakers are calibrated. I began measuring the resistance of each breaker using a calibrated 20 amp DC current. If you know the breaker resistance, you can calculate the trip point. If the breaker is dissipating 2 watts, it will trip in 1 to 10 minutes. Using the resistance method, I labeled each breaker according to it's actual trip point. My testing indicates these breakers are good for up to 24 Vdc and 35 amps. Also, since this is a thermal breaker, the trip point is noticably affected by the ambient temperature and the wire temperature. Most all circuit breakers are not rated for surge current, you can't use the breaker for instance, to switch power from the battery to the power inverter, the large capacitor bank in the inverter will quickly ruin the breaker contacts. Before closing the breaker, an incandescent light bulb must be temporarily connected across the circuit breaker to charge the capacitor bank.
Thanks for the video. If you have contact resistance at the terminal - even as low as 1mR, it will generate a lot of heat that will conduct in to the switch and affect the switch's performance. I believe they recommend carbon of silver paste and a lot of torque to minimise contact resistance at the terminal.
I had the same problem. I had a battery charger current limited to 50A and fitted one of these rated to 60A to protect from shorts. It kept breaking every few seconds. They work great.....as a switch. As a fuse they are utter rubbish
Thank you for the video - useful to know this is not designed for the current it's advertised. Does it matter if you connect it backwards i.e. the battery on the side you connected the load and the load where you are supposed to connect the battery? Thanks
Good review. Obviously any breaking current above 50A should not be used. Its rated up to 48V. DC breaker is more difficult as it can arc and destroy breaker Can it reliably break 48VDC and 50A? Also what is section in last minute?
This fuse should not normally blow below the value written on it. In this way, it will not be of any use if the pulse duration is prolonged at low current. The important thing is that if the current is drawn above the fuse value, it will trip, right?
Thank You for the info , I am looking for 125A DC breaker for my ebike project , i want something that will work as it should . Can you recommend one or two thanks , best reagards
Hello and congratulations for the tests with the fuse I would like to ask you something I have a large LFP battery pack (EVE 280K) in 9S 4P or 28 volts 1120AH and my voltage converter is 4000 watts to 28 volts which fuse do you recommend between the + of the converter? 150A? fuse like yours or a fixed fuse like VICTRON? THANKS laurent
Hello, your load is 4kW and 150A fuse is excellent choice, I chacked the VICTRON, they are very expensive. If you can't find a resettable fuese or breaker, then yes.
that's exactly I am doing the test for. The sellers just put a number. If you check Amazon, the same items with exact shape and size is soled and labeled from 50A to 300A. I will test them and people would decide which one is good for what application.
@@WattHour yes, very good! I have heard bad things about this breakers before. Best is to use a fuse instead, Or use a quality breaker, but that's several times higher price.
I installed a very similar one. Black and red instead of black and yellow. I 9.5 kW photovoltaic on the roof. 120 amps are no problem with mine, even for hours. I am lucky
Did you perform long-term test if it could really handle a continuous 50A load? You didn't mention the results in the video, only that 60A was "over the edge" for it. ... Did you want to add Amazon links to the 4 Gauge cables, as mentioned at 3:44 ?? Also maybe add links to Thermal Camera mentioned at 13:44
Hi, no did not do further test because the thermal image shown the device was not heating up. so it meant it was able to handle 60A current and not heating up. That's why for safety I said 50A and for hotter environments I reduced 10A which is would be sufficient. But to be sure we should always rely on the manufacturer information. for the links, I just add them. Thank you for letting me know.
so basically, it can handle 300 peak and then a fraction of that like, the rating is for inrush current and then oparting current is only 10-15 percent?
Доброго дня, дякую за огляд! Скажіть будь-ласка, яке падіння (втрата) потужності на самому вимикачі при номінальному струмі у 200ампер, чи робили ви такий замір?
I did not measure it as it can’t handle 200A continuously. It is almost zero for the value that this device can handle. I have shown thermal images and it is cool so no waste and no voltage drop across it. See video again.
I don’t want anything in my electrical system thats pumping hundreds of Amps that’s critical to safty that cost 20 bucks… give me a class T fuse so I can sleep well
You're joking right? Even if it did handle 300 amps, you're telling me you're ok with SOLDERING that lug on? How to tell your audience you're clueless without telling your audience your clueless (or you're a fire insurance salesman, one of the two).
this happens when you don't watch all the tests. I have shown it that it can handl less than 100A contineously. Watch without skipping. it can't even handle 150A for more then 30 seconds.
