Being a machinist we often sent out our weldments to a local heat treat shop to have them stress relieved. We beat many straight until the company hired a retired tool and die maker that was a former John Deere employee. The old guy used a jig to check each weldment and knew exactly where to apply heat with a torch to warp them into tolerance. He was a smart guy and I learned a lot of stuff from him decades ago.
I am building my first Uzi and also my first tig welding project. This is such a helpful video there's really not much else out there in this quality or made in this decade. Thanks!
Dude weaponsguild son. Thats the place for builders who arent asshole tards. For tig just practice on same size metal im still new with it but my problem is my fucking hands shake so i always dip the tip 😂
From what I understand BWE had many orders for over two maybe even three years told everyone it was on back order (including me ) it’s very sad what happened but whomever is in charge of the site needs to refund the people that never got their products
you can use the heat from a tig to pull receivers around the torch shrinks metal, if it's aiming high, some heat on the bottom can pull it into place at first it makes it worse, but as it cools it shrinks beyond the point of where it started jody from welding tips and tricks did a video about welding distortion that displays this effect
If you heat the trunion with a propane torch prior to welding you get much better penetration and its easier to get a good weld without buikding up too much metal. I also use just the torch (no filler) at first to fuse the parts together before adding filler. Saves grinding, the last one i did was finished with a hand file and bead blasted after. You can't find the welds. Ive built half a dozen uzis and several MACs using this method. I am AMAZED by the piss poor welding i constantly run into in the firearms industry. I am a welder by trade, and it's very shocking to see parts meant to contain explosions welded by morons. I saw a Serbu recently at the range with 3 broken welds after 50 rounds.
I got a big laugh from your range story! Your knowledge of your craft is amazing. 1010 body and 1018 trunnion etc. Most smiths have no idea what metal they're working with. Also, your hand control is hard to believe, you make it easy, and I know it's anything but easy.
Damn man I wished you still lived in VA I would love to come watch and learn. I took in a lot of info from an old timer engine builder a few years ago. I really enjoy learning new things! thanks for putting up this info man I really appreciate it. I'll send some money for the knowledge after Christmas is over!
Your gauges look homemade. Where did you find the designs and measurements for your gauges? Did you read up on the steels used? And how do you know if something is hardened or not and to what degree? Do you have a hardness tester? I agree those metals are perfectly suited for these applications.
I made the gauges. Came up with the designs from literature, pictures, blueprints, etc. I know what steels and hardness are used in firearms from 40 years of experience, research, talking to designers and engineers. Yes I have access to a hardness tester.
Hi Richard, I hope you are doing well, I am interested in the Uzi jig you made, either the original or another one made to replicate it. Are you still working in the shop? Also interested in the gauge block, specs on the receiver for rewelding cut surplus and so on. Thanks! JD
@@BWEFirearms I figured you did it on purpose. It seemed pretty funny to me. If it were up to me I'd say don't change it. See how many people are actually paying attention.
It’s a year later and your video has appeared on my browser list. I do hope you have survived and are on the mend. It’s hell getting old.I wish my health education teacher from high school some 50 years ago had told us of what to expect as we age. These surprises are no fun. Is there anyone who makes an alignment bar for the Uzi's that goes all the way back to the rear hole on the receiver? I recall something back about 20 years ago when there were tons of parts kits on the market. I never invested in one and I would like to add one to my tool collection. Many years ago at the range a friend was firing a full auto in Semi when it went full on him. The owner of the firearm simply removed the upper cover, checked it with a straight edge and found it was bent upwards in the center so the bolt would not catch on the sear, he gently applied pressure to the bent area bringing the cover back into alignment, reassembled the firearm and tried it in semi, no issues. These are fine firearms and I have trusted it in our military unit for many years in the past.
Thank you, Richard! You were a lifesaver for my S&W76. I need some clarification… are the bad weld jobs only on the original Group Industries guns our the Vector ones too?
Pretty pretty???? Pretty damn hot there Richard lol . Hey... If this is the way its done... I believe him. Hes been doing this longer than i been alive
It would be nice if some machinist could take the time to make a bunch but probably some ATF agent would show up at his door and put him out of business, accusing him of making a machine gun. Trunions for the Browning 1919 series are in demand as well.
Oh buddy you ain’t kiddin! Seeing a customers eyes blow up like a carton when you do something violent to adjust their gun, or when an beginner at owner seeing you mortar the rifle to remove a stuck case is funny a shit.
Not trying to be cute just trying to learn how to use the editing software and hit the wrong button. Before I realized it was backwards I had already uploaded the video. I did learn where that button is.
Why is 1010 and 1018 garbage steel? It is perfectly suited for the application. Most everyone uses the same for their stamped receivers and non wear parts.
@@BWEFirearms I'll admit I've never been in the design or engineering loop at a stamping or forming plant so my knowledge of the process is limited a little bit. That said, I've never heard of 1018 being used for anything except structural members exposed to primarily static loading, or for parts whose primary design concern is material expense even to the exclusion of strength to weight ratios. I know it can take quite a bit of load in those static situations, but it just seems that something with more carbon and a few alloying elements like 4140 should be the minimum for anything exposed to chamber pressures in a firearm. Furthermore since 1018 is so cheap it is almost never very pure with loads of silicon and other crap which makes it both weak and nearly impossible to get a good finish when milling. Of course stamping is not milling and ductility is important, so perhaps I should have slowed down a bit and thought of why it could be a *good* choice before popping off with my post about why I think it is a bad one.
@@sheldoniusRex The parts made of 1018 like the trunnion, feed ramp, grip lug are not exposed to any chamber pressure. The barrel and bolt are made of 4140.
@@sheldoniusRex you're overthinking it bro, i get it, you are in college and wanna look cool these guns have existed long before you and long after you with the "garbage steel" being used
