Richard Raffan turns a wide-rimmed bowl for the second 4-Ways Project 

It's been a worrying morning trying to get this video up.

It's acacia melanoxylon which is very similar to Hawaiian koa and commonly known in SE Australia as Tasmanian blackwood or sally wattle.

It's actually acacia melanoxylon which is very similar to Hawaiian koa.

@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I don't think we have access to that timber here in the PNW. Thanks for giving me the name so I can keep an eye out for some!

Many thanks for the feedback.

Thanks, Colin. Still piping I hope.

Still piping Richard , funnily enough,last time I played was at AAW in Chattanooga. been enjoying your videos by the way.

Спасибо

That's correct.

I have quite a collection of colorful socks that are beginning to wear out, so over time you'll get to see quite a variety.

Oh, you should also try Mike Mahoneys walnut oil. I even use it on my fine woodworks. It takes some time to dry, just like any oil, but when it's dry, it looks graceful.

@@jakegevorgian If it was available in Australia, that's what I'd be using.

@@RichardRaffanwoodturning hi Richard, walnut oil finish is available from Timbecon, sold under brand ‘Walrus oil finish’. Cheers

@@jennybarnes4806 We're talking specifically of Mahoney's walnut oil which is specifically a bowl finish and totally food safe at all times. The Walrus appears to be somethign different but I'll investigate.

To all of you??? There’s only one of me and if you wish to make complaint or appeal I think there are many better places than this channel. I aim to show people how I work in an attempt to offer insights into the craft. I promote my books and videos but not tools. I don’t cost you anything. If you’ve watched many of my videos you’ll have seen I rarely use more than six tools and often fewer. I counted six tools in this video. You’ll have seen that I work in a small space on a small lathe using a limited range of mostly well-used traditional tools. I don’t have a vacuum chuck and fewer than half the chucks I had five years ago when I downsized. Only rarely do you see me use half of those chucks. I suspect on most projects only occasionally do I use more than six tools, although sometimes I show alternatives for people like yourself. I’ve been in hundreds of workshops in a dozen countries and my observation is that most professional turners have what they need, whereas many hobby workshops are far better equipped because they can afford what they want and don’t have to justify a business expense. I feel your comment is ill directed. Nevertheless you might like to list the tools you think I should be using on a specific project I’m likely to undertake. If you don’t want to go public, please email me www.richardraffan.com.au/contact/

Overnight I reaalised you might be refering to 4-Ways which consists of two enthusiastic hobby turners, one aspiring and one retired professional. Checking this morning I find we each we each seem to use six tools or fewer for this project so you don't have much to complain about on that account. Added to which a vacuum chuck is very easy to make for next to nothing based on an old vacuum cleaner and a faceplate. You can see how to construct one in Turning Wood or my Complete Illustrated Guide to Turning www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/.

The calipers are made by Lee Valley in Canada and stocked elsewhere in specialist woodturning supplies stores.

Thanks for that. I've traced them - they seem very expensive (for a beginner!) ? I'm going to try to adapt a cheapo ! @@RichardRaffanwoodturning

I could be wrong, but they look like the Veritas Deep Calipers.

Thanks!!

I simply wasn't prepared for it. I too have a bar with a magnet on the lathe bed to keep the bar in place, but I forgot.

I usually finish the outside before starting the inside, only partly for speed and effeciency in production. A major benefit is that when supporting a hollowing cut there is less friction against my fingers, so less heat build up.

I'm using Vicmarc chucks with Shark, Step, and Dovetail jaws. Each set of jaws is on it's own body and all but one are VM100 chucks. If your'e in Canberra feel free to call in.

I tend to take the weight out of the middle of the bowl wall so there's a better balance between the rim and base. Bowls that look thin with a thin lip often benefit from having a heavy foot and tapered wall thickness. My Art of Turned Bowls discusses such stuff in detail without laying down any laws, as does the original Turned Bowl Design which is no longer in print having bn replaced by ATB but often to be found second hand at a premium. www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/

Sanding speed varies with the wood. I want to feel the wood dragging the abrasive, so if I don't the speed goes down until I do. With wood that wants to heat-check lower speed can help, but above all don't let the heat build up.

@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you for this.

Most of my bevels start about 45°. My gouges ar usually asymmetric so 45° on the nose then much steeper on the short right wing. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-idB-z6--FAs.html . (Apologies for the delayed response.)

Graines de lin bouillies et cire d'abeille

Hi Richard Beautiful bowl and grain pattern,sounds like “the sock”has many sons. Thanks for sharing,really look forward to your truly entertaining and inspiring videos Regards from NZ

If you mean why a heavier gouge for hollowing - for the strength and weight that wasn't needed on the profile when the cut was close to the rest. The smaller gouge begins to flex when cutting well over the rest. The dryness of the blackwood had little to do with it.

This was a well-seasoned blank that had probably been drying for at least 3-4 years and likely over 10 as it came from a deceased estate via my local Woodcraft Guild. It was very hard, dry, and dusty.