Thank you again for your videos. With so many woodturners on youtube, it hard to find one that gives such good instruction. At this point I only look at others on youtube just to see different finished products. I'll stick with you instruction on how to get it done.
Your explanation of the tool techniques as the project develops is very instructive as was the demonstration of how you dealt with the troublesome grain on the inside of the bowl while finishing it. Showing the difference between the finished bowl with and without the foot was very helpful. One of the things I'm trying to improve is the ability to critically judge the esthetics of a finished project -- seeing these kinds of examples really helps with that.
Taking off the foot was an improvement. I had a little bowl that bothered me slightly for years. My husband liked it a lot and he was horrified when I said that I’d figured out what was wrong and headed for my shop with it. I reduced the foot by a lot rather than removing it entirely, but even husband agreed it looked a lot better and now it doesn’t bother me anymore 😊
Thanks Richard, I really appreciate your willingness to share your experience. I have your book as a ready reference, but the videos are much more informative.
Very well turned Richard. And very well narrated. As has been previously stated you are about the best in instructional videos. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Awesome video as always Richard. I was turning some elm yesterday that came from a neighbors tree. Here we call it Dutch elm or American elm, the variety we have. It seeds and grows like a weed here in New Mexico and most people try to get rid of it but I actually love it, especially free! It was full of worms and fully dried and very hard. Often when I turn it I actually try to leave some of the bark and sapwood on the piece as it has some beautiful diversity in an 1/8” thickness of wood/bark once turned. Sometimes on smaller pieces I will leave bark flat spots on either side of the bowl and leave the pith of the branch in the piece. I will hand sand those flat spots partially through the bark and leave it basically live edged on 2 sides of the bowl. Of course some of the worm holes remain in the piece mostly in the cambium layer but it lends character to the piece in my opinion. This tree was killed by the critters in it and if I got rid of all the worm eaten wood I would have nothing to work with. Lol! Elm is a challenging wood to work with but it has some really cool character in it that I really love. Cutting and sanding it to get rid of all the little spots of lifted grain is difficult at times but sometimes I leave it a little rough and don’t spend the time getting it perfect (which is hard for a perfectionist to do) but I seem to sell these pieces at the occasional craft show fairly well. I charge less for them because I don’t spend much time on them like I do other perfect blanks and let the wood with all its flaws attract the attention. Richard, I have told you this before, but you have influenced my wood turning more than any other person. I have read multiple books by you from decades back and I have quite a library of material by you and I appreciate everything you do for us. You are a gem, and have a humble heart that comes through in all of your videos. Be blessed my friend as you bless others. Take care, Scott. O yes, and your mentee Tomislav is a chip off the old block!
I turn American elm frequently and sometimes Siberian elm and find elms dull tools comparatively easily, even when green. Once dry it’s so hard it’s extremely frustrating to the point of futile to turn.
Can you please explain the grind you have on your ½" bowl gouge that you are using for hollowing? The right and left wings look very different. I love your videos!
Most of my gouges and scrapers have a bevel of about 45°. I use different bevel angles for different cuts. You see the facework bevels from about 11:30 in my Uses of a ½" Spindle Gouge video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WySx5rhyvfQ.html
Thanks Richard I noticed i might be holding my gouge more horizontal than you . As you seem to point the edge up to the surface i'll try that to see if i get a better finish.
That's not necessarily a problem. It rather depends on your height in relation to the lathe centre height, ths size of the gouge, and the height of the rest. The important thing is to have the portion of the edge cutting at about 45° to the oncoming wood.
I'm wondering which of the many possible alternative angles you have in mind. There are bowl videos showing how I hold the tool (then people complain they can't see somethign else). These might help: Body movement open bowls - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-A_zpZ98JZ1g.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dqNnwm6Dkfw.html and Spindle gouge on bowls low view - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jJ-gj3RDaFU.html
I have a general idea of the shape I want as I start. Changes in design occur mostly when I encounter unforeseen splits or other defects that have to be removed to create a finished piece free of said splits and defects. Turning bowls for a living, I try to retain the maximum possible dimensions because bigger bowl = higher price. This approach to maximizing my return on materials sparks new ideas.
A very fine looking bowl with some lovely figure. That must be the msot sandpaper I've seen you use on a single piece so far. What sort of drying time would you have gone for with a piece of elm this size? Thanks for another instructive and entertaining video.
An air-drying a blank this size takes at least four years. This came to me from a clearance sale. I know it was at least 10 years drying and probably another decade, maybe two. It was very dry and quite hard.
Великолепно, Ричард! Великолепно!!! С удовольствием смотрю каждое твоё видео, смотрю и учусь. А это редкое видео, где ты изготавливаешь большую чашу. И если можно - два вопроса. Я не совсем понял, как ты отмечаешь глубину чашки. Ведь ты точишь глубже той точки, которую отмечаешь сверлом. Или ты сразу сознательно сверлишь отверстие не до конца? И второй вопрос. Отчего появляются на древесине плохо шлифующиеся участки (в твоём видео это 25 минута просмотра)? Это особенности внутреннего строения древесины или недоработка исполнителя инструментами? У меня периодически возникают подобные проблемы при итоговой шлифовке. Спасибо за видео.
Обычно я сверлю примерно на 2 мм меньше глубины, чем мне нужно. Я предпочитаю быть осторожным, чтобы иметь право на ошибку. Плохо отшлифованные участки: торцевые волокна обычно труднее ровно разрезать и обычно требуется немного больше шлифовки. Электрическое шлифование дрелью обычно является более быстрым способом сглаживания сложных торцевых волокон, когда строжка или скребок не работают. Если все зерна порваны, проблема в том, кто держит инструмент. Если это всего лишь небольшой участок, то это дерево. I usually drill about 2mm less depth than I'll need. I prefer to be cautious so there's margin for error. The poorly sanded areas: the endgrain is usually more difficult to cut cleanly and usually requires a bit more sanding. Power sanding with the drill is usually a faster way of smoothing difficult endgrain when a gouge or scraper don't work. If all the grain is torn, the person holding the tool is the problem. If it's just a small patch, it's the wood.
I think it’s great that you put out so many videos, before I found your channel I watched you on a Taunton press dvd over and over again, you used the right wing of your bowl gouge up the outside of a cherry blank and I was sure that would be a huge catch, but it turns out to be one of my favorite ways of finishing the out side, thank you so much
@@Pato290763 Brian is referring to a video I made about ten years ago with my publisher Taunton Press. You see the backcut at 8:40 in ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TIvROyV2n6w.html. Here at 6:35 you see much the same cut using a spindle gouge, with the point of cut only slightly above the point of the tool. Using the side of a spindle gouge is a certain catch. You'll see the backcut using bowl gouges in several of my bowl videos.
Hi, thanks for the informative video. I want to ask about the finishing process. You applied a layer of boiled linseed oil and a layer of beeswax. Ive always been told to apply three to five layers of oil. So my question is, is one layer of oil enough? Or do you apply more later? But then you have wax on so.. If you can help me and explain it to me. Thank you so much.
I finsh most pieces as you see in this video with just one coat of oil to fill the pores in the wood. The advantage of an oil and beeswax finish is that when utilitarian bowls are washed the finish comes off, after which a patina develops with use as it does on a wood chopping or serving board, wooden plate, or wooden salad bowl. On pieces that won’t get wet, the oil and beeswax is a good base for ongoing care and regular polishing. My observation is that hard finishes and sealers eventually crack, look terrible, and need refurbishing, whereas my bowls tend to look better with age and use.
Does properly dried wood generally sand to a cleaner finish than something you've dried in the microwave? The grain in this piece looks almost like you've put the finish on, when you're only halfway through sanding. Maybe Elm just has a really well-defined grain?
It's unwise to make blanket statements about wood as each piece is slightly different. This bit of elm didn't finish as cleanly off the tool as I expected.
It's a small Jet unit about 1½-hp 1100 cfu. You see how it's set up in my lathe and dust video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-twuFE1-6qB0.html
Im sure you've gone over it before and I've heard you say if you only had one tool, it'd be a ½" spindle gouge. What make you choose the spindle gouge over the bowl gouge so much?
Deep-fluted bowl gouges are designed for hollowing bowls where strength is required working well over the rest. Since 1970 I’ve used spindle gouges for turning bowl profiles. You don’t need the strength of a deep/fluted bowl gouge working close to the rest, so using a less expensive tool when the cut is close to the rest makes sense, at least to me. Regards having just one gouge/tool, a deep-fluted bowl gouge isn't nearly as versatile as a spindle gouge.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning ahhh it finally clicked in my head. A combination of overhang stability and cost effectiveness when not needed. Makes perfect sense, thanks.
Oh! Oh! DONT tell me about having a devil of a time getting the blank off! I used every word in my vocabulary! And then I remembered something about a monkey wrench applied judiciously to the tenon….
Friction is between the jaws and the wood. I try to remember to wax the blank before I put it on the screw. Try but usually fail. So I pop the screw out of the chuck, step over to my bench vise, clamp it on the screw, and easily spin the bowl off.
