I bought a barb with a 12mm thread(I think) on it and inserted a tube on the barb ,then fitted to end of funnel .I just screw it the filler hole then hook the funnel over the seat using part of a coat hanger.It takes 800 cc on an oil change .Re-route the gearbox breather tube upwards to avoid crap and water entering.The breather hose is on the right hand side of motor coming out of power valve cover.Ive sent pictures to your website email as I couldn't attach pictures to this
I just tilt the bike over to the right.. and I use a medical 300cc syringe to put the oil in.. I have an aftermarket skid plate as well and I made the drain hole bigger in it because you are not going to want to remove that skid plate every time
Great advice! I found that a kitchen funnel works pretty well now too! As for the skid plate the P Tech doesn't even have a drain hole. I may drill one but we'll see. I've had the plate off a few times adjusting it and it's not too bad to get on and off.
The P-tech bash plate hasn't got a hole for the gear box drain ,Use your plastic skid plate as a template and drill one .The P-tach is an absolute bear to remove a refit .Also reiju(gasgas) have a unique crankcase drain plug about 100 mm(4 inches) in front of the gearbox drain .An absolute blessing when you submarine the bike .You can drain the water out without lifting the bike up,So you need to cut a hole for the crankcase drain as well .You need to carry a 8mm Allen for that .Also make provision in the plate to fit a 8mm spanner to drain the coolant.Dont ask me how I know all this .The radiator guards and bash plate are absolutely awesome ....until you have to take it off ...Hahhahahah
I always thought the Rotella T5 is the only one in Rotella lineup that isn’t approved for motorcycles? I change my oil all the time on my Rieju with whatever I have laying around or what’s on sale. The stock clutch is going to drag regardless. CPD sells a little screw in adapter for the oil fill. It’s well worth the money. Just make sure you lay the bike on its side while adding. Otherwise you’ll make a mess.
It's still a diesel oil so no friction modifiers. Shell just didn't want to pay for the JASO MA for T5 too. I've run T5 in our whole fleet and personal bikes for quite some years. I did switch to amsoil Trans for the Rieju just because we carry it but I notice no difference.
Changed oil for the first time on my MR 300 Racing and the brass crush washer on the drain bolt is stuck against the threads in the case, can’t get it to come off, ever experienced that? Any suggestions? Enjoying your vids. Thanks!
3:40 I talked about what weight oil I used, what Rieju recommends, and what Gasgas recommended for that engine in the past... The true dummy is the one who complains when they didn't even watch lol. Or have the two brain cells to google it haha.
