RIP Philips Hue & Govee 

Came here to say this

The esp32 is made on massive scale, the power cable is made on smaller scale and prob bought locally. But still insane difference haha

@@Terandium if you think ESP32 are made in a larger scale than generic mains power cables, you're off by one or multiple orders of magnitude and in the wrong direction. Cakes are used by basically every appliance, these esp32 boards are a comparable specialty items for tinkerer's and electronic hobbyists. And by "probably bought locally" you mean Amazon, right? Cause that's where he said he got it. They should costs maybe a dollar (and only better they contain copper), rest is markup for the convenience of Amazon.

@@TheCreat ah my bad I didn't know they were bought of of Amazon's, I figured he got it at a local hardware store. Which just has a lot higher cost of operations.

And the LED strip is $50 and the power supply is $18. What’s your point?

Delay starts to get noticeable over 1600 pixels on the strip I use.

You seem very knowledgeable in this field. Any experience with Li-fi applications? Data transfer through high speed LED strobing?

yeah this video contains some shokcing technical inaccuracies and a total lackluster of saftey advices

“There is no access to that….” Except for the boards where there is. Boards with CLED allow you to adjust pwm frequency easily

@@threepe0 Does that work with the individually addressable pixels like the WS2813, SK6812 strips?

Haha thanks man. I spent more time than I care to admit trying to get that to work seamlessly 😂

We’ve all been there my man

And he seemed so confident about his theory 😂

@@MaximilianBecker87 yes, this was a _shockingly_ horribly wrong explanation

He did mention about the PWM later on which explains why it was still flickering while using DC power. I don't know why he thought it was caused by AC power to begin with.

some cheap led lights run directly on AC power, it's common for led light bulbs. No that wouldn't fry them, they are specifically made to be used like that. Of course if you run your 5V DC leds on AC 240V you fry them, he didn't say to do that...

Not sure but I think LEDs NEVER run on AC. Pretty sure

Good to tell but putting an esp32 directly to main without resistor or transistor is just not a good idea for the long run. Even in the table from wled it shows a resistor. Also the cables are to thin for 100w

@@justinfelix6690 I believe you're confusing many different concepts. The ESP32 is not connected to mains. Its development board is connected to the switch mode power supply. This is correct. The development board has an on-board 3.3V linear regulator. You might put a fuse between, but not a resistor, and transistor makes no sense. You would use a transistor or resistor after the ESP32 for driving analog LEDs, and each for different reasons. Transistors isolate and control higher voltage LEDs - usually 12V strings. Resistors limit current of individual LEDs, but the ESP32 already has internal 12mA current limiting resistors inside its GPIOs. Neither apply to the digital LEDs in this video. Digital LEDs don't need transistors or resistors anywhere. You can use a transistor to shift levels between ESP32 and *6812, but 3.3V is well enough above the digital high specified by the LEDs. You can use a typically 100R resistor in the data line for impedance matching, but unless you're on the bleeding edge of transmission line speeds to an LED. Remember, conductors are rated for current, and insulators for voltage. His cable can handle 300V, but definitely not 18A. Does that mean use a heavier gauge? Absolutely not! The strip is a wire, too, and it's not rated for 18A, either. You need to run another wire from power supply to the far end of the strip.

Totally agree he should use a fork terminal or similar - the wires will just fatigue or corrode and break off after a while otherwise

@@jackleerush2 he literally says "this is temporary because I'm moving house soon, don't do this" in the video. Do you people even pay attention?

Did you flash the esp32 with WLED firmware or did you build your own custom local site?

So many new projects to be done here! I'm a bit overwhelmed but very excited

as an electrical engineer, almost everything here screams Horror.

@@RandomUser2401 what - my suggestions or the original video?

@@roysigurdkarlsbakk3842 the original video. the title overpromised so much. when he claimed the flickering comes from AC mains I was screaming at the screen.

@@RandomUser2401 good scream. but still, 18 amps through those wires, they would look like lightbulb filaments

@@roysigurdkarlsbakk3842 ... so you get even more light out of it! If only for a little while...

I spent hunders on hue. Now I'm just using their 4 button remote\wallplate and the motion sensor. The hue lights are boxed, lightbulbs\strips\hue plays, all replaced with cheaper bulbs and individually addressable led strips unfortunately.

@@mcg9573 Why’s that?

YES! Those 0.1mm thick traces along the strip will not carry 18 amps. Run thick wires along the strip an connect to + and GND every 1 or 2 meters. You also absolutely want a properly dimensioned fuse on that power supply. This is to protect your wiring, not the power supply.

Yes next time i will buy 12 volt leds less resistance more length without Injecting.

And to keep color correct

I just completed a project that had 525 WS2812, I use the BTF 5v 60A power supply with 3 outputs, one at the start of the string, and second at the end of the first string . As this was my first long string led project I had ever assembled I figured this would be enough power. I was wrong, the last 100 leds didn't have the same color as the rest of the string, meaning I needed to connect up the 3 output from the PS to the end of the string. Something else I noticed that help me make the call on the 3rd power injection was the temperature of the DC connection plugs at the led's. Very warm, enough that had me concerned, considering these would be on for 8+ hours at a time. Upon connecting up the 3rd output, the power injection connectors were now room temperature, and all 525 led's were operating properly.

@@MIdaffy502 60A is power enough, 525 leds at full brightness white color consumes max. 21.56 A, when using effects you will use about 6-10 A max. on full brightness with colors. You probably used very thin cables to power the leds or did something else wrong. Try only power injection in the middle if possible with your project, i'm sure it's enough when using awg 13-16 wire.

Level shifter SN74HCT245N or a sacrificial pixel with a voltage divider is a solution :)

Injecting voltage every 40 leds should stop this

@@peterjackson1426 It's not power issue, it's a logic issue. The data line from the controller needs to be close to 5V, so a logic level shifter between the microcontroller and the first LED in the chain is all you need.

@@StuTubed Quick follow up question. I want to use it with 25 meters. Would that also work here? Or can I use this setup even with multiple LED strips in my room? I intend to do a ceiling surrounding LED in our living room.

@@M0nteytime You should only need to worry about signal to the first LED in the chain, each pixel repeats the signal to the next one. If you have a long stretch of wire between two strips in series, it should be fine because the last pixel on the first strip should be sending 5V to the first pixel of the next. You will need to consider power injection to the LEDs themselves though if the strips are long enough.

Thank you 😀

because I heard you saying for making this video in your last video

My pleasure Sameer! I hope you found it useful

Have to agree, if it was insanely cheaper AND very reliable, I would definitely go DIY... But it seems that all these DIY don't go with an impressive length. Govee here, and everything is just so simple. I'm PERSONALLY willing to pay more for simplicity and reliability.

@@L1Z1O Take a look at the Athom WLED controller ($20), it has all the messy wiring inside so you have power in and a connector on the other end for the LEDs. This will work with 5-24V 16A so you can get whatever type of LED strip you like. There is also a similar controller from Gledopto which is about half the price but will only do 10A.

Yes, the ESP8266 (look for D1 mini) is cheaper and smaller. And you do not need the pins, just solder your 3 wires to the holes on the PCB. Once flashed you can cover the ESP with hot glue, so you do not get shorts and it is more water proof.

was about to say the same, people pay close attention touching things with big capacitors around!

Although I agree is sentiment, there is almost certainly a bleed resistor for the cap circuit that should dissipate any charge within roughly a minute after powering off. To be safe, just wait 5-10 minutes and you should be fine.

Came to say the same. He didnt even need to open it, the majority of power supplies' switch to change voltage can accessed fairly easily. And even if that wasn't the case, he couldve easily used a plastic or other non-metal stick type object to reach the switch

... or simply get one that is right for the country where you live... most people do not move amongst countires on a regular basis, so switchable power supplies are simply not necessary.

@@arnovanwingerde8589That would double the number of SKUs a bare PSU manufacturer would have to make, validate, pass certification on, and manufacturer, then store and deal with the sale of. The BOM cost for the switch and duplicated parts to handle 110/220 switching is far cheaper than making two copies of many products. That said, I wish the auto switching ones had replaced it, more efficient apparently, but that costs more, so cheap companies keep demanding the cheaper PSUs, keeping the option on the market rather than killing it off for the better one.

That's a good question and I'm not quite sure yet. I think I might actually use them as a key light. I havent tested the CRI yet, but just by eye it appears to be quite good. It'd be fun to make some sort of flexible panel.

@@ZacBuilds Do it and I'll watch via RU-vid Premium 5 times 😆

My pleasure! Thanks for watching!

Nice, my bambu labs x1 just showed up in the mail today! Maybe I'll do the same

@@ZacBuilds Nice! Have fun with the printer, you will love it. I would like to get a bambu lab x1 but can't justify the price, for now I will stick with my heavily modified ender 3v2 😂

For higher voltages probably better to just use the Athom WLED controller for simplicity, just plug the power supply in one side and the same voltage LEDs on the other side. I have a 10m 12V string of LEDs and there is no colour shift along the length of the lights.

Yeah that would be nice. (edit: talking about controlling hue with WLED) Phillips uses ZigBee 3.0 now, or rather the bridge supports it. It is an open source standard. You can hook up pretty much any light to a Bridge. This is what you're talking about. My point is, it's no longer closed source only. Of course any extra features they add to their products that aren't handled via the ZigBee protocol are not open source.

... open open source software, which does make a bit of difference, even though not a completely guaranteed safe one either.

@@arnovanwingerde8589Not sure why everyone thinks open sourced is safe. By definition its code isn't locked down, making it potentially the most unsafe option.

It's a difference. The aliexpress lights come preprogrammed with tuya cloud rubbish WHILE A MICROCONTROLLER PLATFORM LIKE THIS IS (THIS IS NOT THE LAMP) can be programmed and usually comes blank and can be programmed with your own firmware. Learn the difference between hardware and software

@@arnovanwingerde8589 Open source is great but open and has that inherit vulnerability.

@@309electronics5 No need to sing mud. Both items are hardware and can have malicious code stored within. You have to expect that when you buy something for much cheaper than usual that there's a catch. It's up to the buyer to decide if saving a few dollars is worth that risk. Nothing is truly secure but consumers can do their best to make it a but more challenging than buying potentially compromised hardware to save $10.

@random acc perhaps you've not read my comment or just doesnt understand the content

In Case you are still looking for an answer: the wled knowledge base is a great start.

Thanks Arpad! Hope you're doing well man!

what? how?

1) There is an option to wire a button to the ESP module and you can choose what it does in the settings for WLED 2) Its the WLED app but you can even use a regular web browser to view the same page when you are on the same network as the LEDs

These are still PWM controlled, but each LED has its own tiny microcontroller that does it rather than all being controlled by a single PWN signal. As far as lifespan and flickering, it will be down to the quality of the strips you purchase.