For your hole drilling issue, I would recommend you try using a spotting drill after using the punch, and then using shorter drills in order to avoid having the drills flex as much. I like to use "Screw machine drills". They're short, and very rigid as a result. They also tend to not be very expensive. They use less material than a normal-length twist drill, and require less grinding to manufacture them.
@@DylanEdmiston Also: Workholding with the drill-press. Your "free hand style" looked like a breeze in the wind:) This may be faster (to produce an accident ...?), but for precision work use steady mounting in every piece of the equipment, including the drill press. Wobbly tables shouldn't be tolerated (tolerance ... pun intended). Thanks for the video, Dylan and sharing your ideas!:)
Dude, I just found your channel and it's absolutely brilliant. I can't watch this right now, as I'm too busy, but this will be my after-hours enjoyment.. appreciate you for sure.
I heard round rails has play? You using sbr linear rail how's your experience with them, do u think about you need to upgrade to square rails on your cnc?
I have a question about how these modvices produce any holding pressure. Is it really the 45° Taper of the counter sink head against the aluminium part? Have you noticed any thread stripping or plastic deformation of the aluminium parts?
Small pilot hole, then always drill undersized then ream the hole, remember when reaming never put the drill in reverse! On my Bridgeport I can always get accurate holes this way. It’s harder with a drill press though!
Try using a small flexible drill bit for the pilot hole like a 1/16th. It will flex and follow the punch mark. A mill will benefit from a rigid pilot drill but on a drill press, it doesnt work that way. An optical center punch plus a thin pilot bit will get you very accurate holes on a drill press.
I love these. Your programs look clean and the parts turned out really well. A suggestion for the future, if you’ve got a 3d toolpath with a small step over moving slowly, zigzag your tool across the part to save time. It’s not taking enough material to heat up or stress your cutter, and it will be more than 2 times faster.
@@DylanEdmiston surface finishing doesn’t offer enough resistance to create any excess wear. I’d argue that the spindle time of running your machine 2-3 times as long without zigzag is worse than wearing out a $20-35 1/4” ballmill.
When clamping your part it helps to push your workpiece down into the vise jaws. Typical drill press vises used on CNC machines will push the part upward out of the vise jaws which will throw your dimensions and tolerances off.
How much for them files? I just got the mega v in my shop, it’s been sitting in my garage all summer which isn’t heated and or cooled my shop is! I’m ready to start machining, I need to hook to my plasma to it also!
@@DylanEdmiston The entry point isn't critical you just want to avoid the plunge cut. You could predrill before you mount on your router. The important thing is getting a hole so you can start side milling instead of plunging. Although it's been a long time since I milled any aluminum with my CNC router, I recently figured out F360 predrilling and entry points on my mill to avoid the maddening helix plunges. It's probably easier on your machine to drill than plunge (for a given tool diameter). I know it's a pain to tool change on a router but drilling 1/8" then 1/4" then milling out the pocket might be faster overall.
