Hi sorry no I don't, I explained it the best I can... basically you cut the esc's battery plugs off and solder the two red wires together and the 2 black negative wires together and then solder them on to your battery plug you want to use. next take one of the red wires out of one of the ESC's plug connector and then you plug both esc's into the receiver, one goes in channel 1 for steering and one in channel 2 for throttle, the esc in channel one port gets wired up to the small steering motor and the channel #2 esc gets wired to the large motor. 👍Hope this helps.
Nice Steve, I had to take out my interior out so I could put my esc’s there. They fit behind but they have on off buttons on them. So now I can just lift the doors and turn each one on. 👍👌👌👊
A year later and I’m rewatching your vids on these things lol. I pondered…and both arrived yesterday from Banggood in pretty quick time. Really happy that the orange is a shade that I consider an awesome orange. I’m gonna build and bash on the white one and probably paint it at some point. Really like your channel. You run a lot of stuff that many don’t. I don’t always want to see the most popular stuff that most review. Keep it up buddy! Nightfall RC🎃 approved! Not that that means anything 🤙🏻
@@ShenRC lol you looked like you have been having to much fun with these tanks so i had ro order one lol its prime day can get some good deals on Amazon right now
@@AdventureTimeRC Yea they are fun, bangood has the kit on sale for $24.99 in the link I linked in my video description...I almost feel like getting a 3rd one so I can paint it up custom!
Didn't you go with 60's on the ESC's with the Banggood model? I am glad you showed every one these mods. I see no reason to go with brushless. What people do not realize is Brushless motors HATE water where as you can run a brushed all day long in the drink and they do fine. Since I do not run my RC equipment day In and day out, I doubt I will be wearing out the brushed motors.
Hi yes these are alternate ones you can use or I find you can use the little red ones for steering only with a 1060 esc for the 390 works great also...but all 1060 style esc's is best option. 👍
Hi that should work, the esc did not work because they had the + and - backwards you would be using reverse with less power on the esc so I swapped the wires around making sure it was using the 100% power of the forward section of the esc and not the reverse section. Thanks for watching.
Hi some of the esc's only go 50% speed in reverse so you have to make sure your going 100% speed in forward and I found when they are set up correctly you need the motors wires to be on backwards from what they have on them stock to go forward when going forward with your throttle..
MR.Reptileman, im a total amateur when it comes to such intricate upgrades. How would you rate this conversion for someone who hasnt done this before? i dont have a soldering iron or much power tools, and i really want to do this exact conversion to mine. Would you get back to me regarding my issue ? :-(
Hi you are going to need to know how to solder wires up for sure, also see this video I would go with two of the hobby wing 1060 type esc's they work best. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iahenK6Lf4I.html
I was looking get diy metal tank chassis. Figure I could do 2 motors 2 esc. Maybe both linked to throttle & mixer setting for turning slowing motor. Unless I do this upgrade esc & add crossfire or else & fpv 🤔
😁 Hi I will try my best. one esc controls the big 390 motor for forward and reverse, and the other esc controls the small 280 motor that turns gears to make the tracks rotate to make it turn. Hope this helps.
with these esc's you probably can use a fan but if you use the better ones I recommend the 1060 type it will be fine. Not worth going brushless with these things. Thanks for watching.
@@ShenRC I'm going to leave it stock for now, apart from some other mods. First thing I did was add wiring for FPV cameras with connectors so the cameras can be easily removed and reinstalled. Secondly I added some red LEDs in the tail lights. For now they'll be on when there's power but I might wire them to the motor as break lights.
same little ESC's I run in WPL type stuff, about 4 bucks each in eBay. I usually order 3-4 at a time because they're handy and the typical "slow boat from China" factor. got two sitting loose now, if I use one I'll go ahead and order 3 more, usually a discount buying more than one. there are some near identical claiming 30A max momentary surge current about same price. also used them in 180 powered model aircraft, just use a BIG FAT DIODE on one of the motor leads so your propeller can't ever spin backwards (unless you LIKE spectacular crashes on cue!). not tried it yet, but its possible two of them could be wired parallel on everything including the plug going into the receiver, so both of them share the load between battery and motor.
Yea these are nice little esc's watch out with those 30amp models I seen the fine print specs they say they are less than 20a continuous and lie in there ads. Thanks MN
@@ShenRC yupyup, same for the so called 20A, its just their momentary surge rating. its like audio amplifiers after the FCC allowed max power rating to be measured at 10% distortion (wtf nasty!). when an amp claims "two hunna wattzezez" .. oh, ya mean 100 watts per channel then DIVIDE BY THREE for it to sound OK? I got "used to it" real quick of course with the amplifiers, but speaker ratings are still a total crapshoot. more important to look at the specs for Db/1w/m (how many decibel at 1 watt one meter away) than it is to look at "max power handling" where a REAL 200 watts might kill the voice coil in 3 seconds flat!
@@modelnutty6503 Hi no no these ones I have are rated 20A continuous ... if you know of 30 amp continuous ones without brake forward and reverse please let me know bud. Thanks MN
@@ShenRC try two of these wired parallel maybe: www.ebay.com/itm/20A-30A-RC-ESC-Brush-Motor-Speed-Controller-w-Brake-us-Boat-Tank-Car-Part-A0N9/203135961135?hash=item2f4bd8c82f:g:WRQAAOSw6olfgofO for a little beater like this tank or a stock 20 degree 27 turn 540 motor these are pretty handy and cheap: www.ebay.com/itm/Brushed-Regulator-1-8-1-10-ESC-Electronic-Speed-Controller-for-HSP-320A-1-5-KHZ/274407950348?hash=item3fe3fd080c:g:av4AAOSwijle8ubV they're only good to about 45-50 amps max in reality but cheap anyway. quicrun 1060 about same for a couple bucks more. but at that point it'd be more fun to drop in a cheap 4500kv 2835 size brushless motor to make it 60-75% faster, right?
@@modelnutty6503 Those 30A ones are fake I seen specs they say 10A continuous on some other places... they have a brake also the ones I am using don't have braking which is perfect for tracked vehicles. Thanks for trying to find something better for me...I think with the 20A ones it's good enough, and 3s just use those cheap clone 1060's i linked.
Awesome Steve, been watching all your videos on this tank and I think you've convinced me to get one of the kits. I am getting ready to put a dual brushless and dual ESC system into my Traxxas E-maxx using the same receiver that you used in this video oh, I'm a little bit confused about how you wired the twin ESC into the receiver and would it be different for me since I will be using 2 ESC also, I was planning on just using a 2-way pigtail and plugging them both into Channel 2 is this a mistake?
Cool! to run two motors the same on a e-max You do the channel 2 throttle port on the receiver coming out to a Y splitter and you take one of the red wires out from one of the esc's plug then plug them both into the Y port plug that feeds into the channel 2 throttle port on the receiver. Thanks for watching
Hi I don't understand why you would want to run a large 12V motor in this? I don't know your set up so I don't know about the esc you would need. Thanks for watching.
@@germangismondi944 Hi Then you will need one of those robotic esc's they make for when you build robot type RC's.. do a search on the web I am sure you can find one.
@@ShenRC Thanks Shen when I was using fast cars 1/10 scale I did not used figures but now with the 1/18 crawlers I like to use then it gives a more realistic look, see this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XyajoIDbkho.html
Hello friend, my name is José and I am from Mexico, excuse me, can you help me with a diagram or photos of how to connect the ESCs, for the sg 1203 rispaw tank since I do not speak English and the translation is not good, and in your video I can not see exactly how you connected them, especially the connection to the battery, and if you can send me greetings on your channel, thank you very much, see you later
Put the tank on-off switch on the vertical piece behind the driver's seat so you can open the door and flick it on. Have you considered going up a notch or two and building a bigger tank for outside? You can find bigger track/ sprocket/ idler sets on Banggood. It's nice to be able to do this without mixing. When you go to bigger motors and ESC's where a motor drives each side, I think they have to be mixed. www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Chassis-DC9-12V-Tracked-Vehicle/dp/B07MQW43LX/ref=sr_1_126?dchild=1&keywords=robot+chassis&qid=1609070619&sr=8-126 There's a video out there where a guy buys the tracks/sprockets/wheels and makes the sides and other pieces from sheet metal. I can't paste his channel in here, but it's DPNP7HK-8yk.
Hi thanks for the info, no problems here so far very good... only small motors in these tanks they don't draw much current so I think they will be fine for this application. Thanks for watching.