Awesome tool and i have recently purchased one , quick question ??? on the extra long finger nail grind you mention the table at 15 degrees and the jig on the extra long ( third hole ) but you dont mention how much to set the grind length on the bench angle set jig ??
Flash forward to May, 2021 when I purchased the last Pro-Edge Deluxe available in the US. I can't describe how disappointed I am! I've been hand sharpening all my edged tools since I was a teenager in the 1960's, but when I became serious about turning I realized just how much trouble sharpening a dull gouge could be. Out of the box and sharpening in minutes - took longer to dispose of box/packing than to start using it. First my turning tools, then my flat chisels, kitchen knives and anything else in the house that needed sharpening. It produced some of the sharpest edges in the shortest time I've ever experienced. Although this tool is the cat's meow of sharpening systems, I am so disappointed it was over so fast. 🙄
Beautifully clear presentation. One thing which you might add is the advantage of grinding the heel off the bowl gouge to give a secondary bevel. This avoids bruising the wood and facilitates smooth traverse of the inside of a bowl. I might also be worth pointing out the advantage of having a second bowl gouge ground to 60 degrees for reaching into a deeper bowl.
I tried the extra long grind with the 15° ange for the horse shoe, but with the long grind jig i'm not able to grind the end of each wing, especially the left one because the holder touches the side of the grinder before i reach the end, either with a 50 or 45° bevel. Feel i ruined my bowl gouge now
@@paulmonks9480 i found out after that you need a different holder for this kind of grind, the one showed in the clip actually, not the one that came with the proedge (deluxe). Costs an extra 80€ so i think i’m going to pass on this. I’ve regrinded my gouge to the original long fingernail, probably lost about a cm of steel.
@@edwinghysebrechts9377 Thanks for the information. I did notice the different jig in the video to the one I had, and suspected that might be the case. Frustrating that the design we have removes some functionality of the machine! I think I'll do this too, maybe try it again with 25 - 30 degree horseshoe instead of the 15 degree one.
@@paulmonks9480 i think i ended on a 30° horseshoe which worked with the original jig. My ‘wings’ are about 10mm long (on a 13mm gouge), which works well enough really. You only use the bottom side of long wings when shearscraping, too much vibration when cutting , especially on thin walls, for that i use the top part. Maybe different with bigger gouges?
I built a copy of this using a cheap bench grinder..works amazingly! Repeatability and a wonderful sharp edge on all my tools. Thanks sorby for the idea
I find your demonstrations very informative but difficult to replicate as you never state the Number (angle) used on the clamp or collar distance from the angle.
Well i just MIG welded up a nice copy of the Wolverine grinding set up, took me two days of work but came out pretty nice,(cost $25) But this also looks like it will produce a sweet ass grind. With my welder i can copy the world.
I tried to make the long grind on my bowl gouge but there’s no way to grind the left wing completely without the tool handle hitting the motor housing, regardless of whatever angle I changed the linisher to?
@@robertcornelius3514 Does not make any difference. The tool clamping arm that holds the chisel will hit the belt housing before you can fully shape the left wing. I had to grind off a few millimetres of the corner of this clamp to allow a clean sweep across the left wing.
@@robertcornelius3514 The cause isn’t the tool handles - it’s the Sorby tool holder - check this out, I’ve made a video to illustrate it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Nv71M1Ji2kI.html
HOLA ME PARECE UNA BUENA HERRAMIENTA PARA LOS QUE NOS DEDICAMOS EL TALLADO EN MADERA. PERO QUISIERA YO SABER DONDE LA PUEDO CONSEGUIR Y SU PRECIO, ESPERO PRONTA RESPUESTA.
Please could you tell me what settings are set on the fingernail profiler arm when sent out from the factory (I altered mine for some reason or other) the settings I need are the angle of the head (12345???) and how far down the shaft does the grubscrew collet need to be??? If you can understand what I mean and can help then THANKYOU so much!!!
We just produced the videos for Robert Sorby and we know little about the products... Please contact Clive Brooks at Robert Sorby on cbrooks@robert-sorby.co.uk he will help you. Oh and tell him Chris the video guy put you on to him. Hope this helps. Chris
The factory set angle of the jig is 120°. There is a ground line on the jig swivel. I wish someone with the proset would post the dimensions of this gage. I use 2" extension of the steel past the jig.
It looks like a very useful tool and I would purchase one except the belt size is 30.5" ,which is non-standard, requiring you to purchase your belts from Sorby at double the cost.
I think I'll stick with my Tormek machines. Just fitted one of them with a CBN wheel for "rough" grinding / reshaping. Putting a 4 facet grind on drills up to 3/4" is a dawdle and as the wheels run in a water bath it is impossible to draw the temper out of you tools
High Speed Steel (HSS) has an incredibly high tempering temperature - you would have to go beyond the cherry red glow point, to almost molten. Not likely on a bench grinder. I agree though that this is useful for high carbon steel tools, such as carving chisels and gouges.
