Rockford Fosgate P300-10T Sub / Amp Combo & 1.5 Farad Capacitor | Clean Install Jeep Wrangler JK 

Did you put the sub under the back seat? Or behind it? I have the crew cab but don't want to give up the space under the back seat. I'd like to put it behind it.

@@mikel6787 I have it behind my drivers seat so I lost that space and can't have a passenger behind me (that doesn't bother me tho cuz I've never had more than 3 people in my truck)

If you install this, does it connect to your radio or what do you have to connect it with Bluetooth? Like I need an answer

You have to connect it via either RCA cables (like used on aftermarket head units) or you can tap into an existing speaker's wires for the audio input. You can also use the audio input signal to power the amp/sub on & off...it automatically detects the signal. It does not connect via Bluetooth...wiring is involved although it is minimal. If this is all jibberish to you, I recommend giving someone like Crutchfield (Google it) or your local audio dealer a call.

Good to know! I am considering modifying this install and using corner braces. Braces to the tailgate, sub to the braces. This way the bolts will be facing down and not need to clamp as hard. Id probably put a rubber gasket between the top of the sub and the tailgate for vibration. I figure this way thieves cant get it still as with the talgate closed, the nuts are blocked by the sub and the floor, but if I want to take it out to fit something larger in I can open the tailgate and remove it without opening the sub up. Thoughts on how this would work?

It is certainly possible to mount like you say & each method has its pros/cons, but ultimately it boils down to what is most important to you...cleanliness of install, security, anti-theft, modularity/ease of removal/frequency of removal, etc. Since you asked my thoughts I'll provide some feedback: - From an anti-theft standpoint, yes the bolts/nuts would be blocked w/the tailgate closed, but if a would-be thief could even access the sub box all he/she would have to do is click the power lock button & open the tailgate to access the bolts. Would it still slow them down, yes but not much. If it's easier for you to remove, it's easier for them as well. - You would need corner braces at both top & bottom to control the inertia of the sudden stop of the slamming tailgate...over time if only secured at bottom the box would flex each time it was closed & eventually be prone to failure (unless I'm picturing your concept incorrectly) - The design/internal reinforcing structure of the tailgate will limit where you can successfully drill & mount rivnuts...it may be possible to mount where you want but just keep in mind that there are steel "ribs" or reinforcement sheets running perpendicular to the would-be mounting face of the tailgate that could interfere. - The major plus of your idea would certainly be ease of removal...again, it boils down to what is most important to you & your individual needs. I'm happy to report that to this day I have not had to remove the box 1x since the final mounting design and it is still working flawlessly. Whatever way you decide to go, let us know & best of luck to you my dude 🤙🏻If you have any more questions, let 'em rip & thank you for your comment/question & view!

That's correct, I just used the 4 wires running to the factory sub, identified which were + & -, and spliced them into the RCA cables that came w/my amp wiring kit. The factory sub wires carry 6.4 Volts DC so can be used as a hi-level input to turn the amp on automatically. Just make sure your hi/low-level input switch is in "HI" & your "Auto turn on" switch is in "DC Offset"; she'll power up automatically as long as your head unit is on. Let us know how it turns out & good luck 👍🏻

Thanks for the view & comment! Hope all works out. I'm happy with my setup, no complaints👍🏻

Just depends on how the day goes I guess. Thanks for the view!

When you add it all up w/accessory lighting, rock lights, light bars (potentially), and a winch pulling hella amps under load it all adds up. I decided to install it to assist my charging system & help reduce load at times of heavy draw if it needed it & don't care if it does nothing MOST of the time. Yes, I know 1.5 Farads is overkill but again, I don't care because it's hurting nothing. I'm not trying to tell anyone what they SHOULD do (unlike you), just sharing my experiences & installs on my personal vehicle as I build it. Thanks for watching, and like Rage Against the Machine said; "...I won't do what you tell me!". Do what you want bro...'MERICA ✊🏻

It's still going strong like it was brand new & zero issues. I've only had to tighten the bolts 1x as I developed a rattle at one point, but I used blue threadlocker on the 4 mounting bolts & no issues ever again. 100% would do it again.

I thought of a few different ways to mount it but ultimately took this route for a couple of reasons...1) It's hella-clean this way in my opinion. 2) In theory this would possibly deter, or at least slow down your average thief...they would either have to take the time to pull the sub & unbolt the box, rip the box off the tailgate (which would likely destroy the box itself), or steal the entire tailgate. Keep the honest man honest...thanks for the compliment, idea, view & comment! 🤙🏻

The capacitor helps provide extra voltage when the sub hits hard that it stores internally. Think of it like a buffer that takes the peaks off of voltage spikes....this keeps your headlights from possibly dimming when the sub is hitting & helps to lighten the load on your alternator. Thanks for the view & comment! Good luck w/the install, it's a fun project 🤙🏻

Good morning. Sorry, just saw this. Yes, you can tap into an existing speaker's signal for audio input to the sub. Thanks for the view & comment! Let us know how it turns out please 🤙🏻

#2 phillips screwdriver & looks like either a 2.5 or 3mm allen wrench (just from eyeballin'). Sub will be a little adhered to the box so will have to gently pry/work it loose -OR- maybe you can take the amp out & just reach your hand inside to unplug the leads.

@@coldsteeloffroad you know what amp it runs? I’ve tried researching but can’t find anything I have the 500 watt 12 by the way

I'd try calling Crutchfield. How u know the amp itself is bad?

Never heard of Tessa tape...I'll check it out. Nope, haven't had any issues w/water intrusion. The only part really sensitive to water is tucked away pretty nicely.

I just wired mine straight off of the signal wires feeding directly into the old factory sub. You have a few options with this sub which is what makes it pretty cool in my opinion. Thanks for the view & comment 🤙🏻

It definitely vibrates. If you turn it up too much it sounds like a teenager's POS Civic rolling through a Wal-Mart parking lot at 10pm on a Friday night 😂. I literally just ordered some Dynamat Extreme to help cure this. Either way, it still beats not having any bass IMO. I recommend some form of sound deadening material if you go this route. Good luck dude 🤙🏻

Added the Dynamat Extreme to the tailgate, retightened the fasteners & she's pretty much vibe free now. The bolts were a little loose which is primarily why it was vibrating in the 1st place...I was just too lazy to check it.

I think you could do it either way, but to be safe, I'd honestly call Crutchfield tech support. Those fellers should be able to help you for sure I'd imagine. Sorry not the answer you were lookimg for, but jot gonna' blow smoke at you if I'm not sure. Thanks for the view & comment!

coldsteel_offroad not a problem. I have a call scheduled with cruthfield tomorrow at 12pm 😁

There's a type of foam gasket that is sticky & can be a little tough to get out at first. I just worked mine until it came out...nothing too crazy though. Keep at it & she should pop loose for you. Thanks for the view!

...worst case you may be able to unscrew the amp, partially remove it & "help" the sub out from the back side. You shouldn't have to though.

Without watching the video again & if I remember what you're asking about, yes I sprayed a little clearcoat over the area where I ground the paint off to get a good ground for the system AFTER I had the ground lug tightened in place. Purpose is to prevent corrosion/rusting. Thanks for the view & comment!

The stock speakers are still lackluster, but the bass is sweet. I ended up replacing the 4 factory speakers when I installed my Genright roll cage w/some Polk units...much clearer, distortion-free sound but lacks mid-range; will have to tackle that later. Bass is pretty weak when top is fully off since nothing to reverberate off of but that's not the sub's fault. Thanks for the view & your question!

I would. I don't know what your goals in a sub are exactly (big bass or a moderate level ok), but as long as your expectations aren't for HUGE bass like from 2 12's or something you'll most likely be pleased w/the sound. The sub does sound good & produces a good amount of bass (can rattle my mirrors & be heard outside)...the included gain controller is a must & I adjust it to my liking for almost every song & appreciate it. I recommend mounting it where u can easily reach while driving. In your application I bet it will sound amazing...sounds awesome in my Jeep even w/a soft top installed. Moral of the story is it sounds like a tight 10" sub in a sealed box, not some crappy 8". Do it man, I don't think you'll be disappointed!

...produces enough bass to envelop you while listening (you can feel the music if that makes sense)

@@coldsteeloffroad thank you. just what I wanted to hear. Sounds like it will fit the bill nicely not having to build a box and find the right amp to make sure the sub is tuned properly.

@@TRONMAGNUM2099 ...if you have the room to spare and can fit the 12" version (box slightly larger than the 10"), I'd probably recommend that...you can always turn the bass down, but she'll only suffer as much chooch as she can suffer if you know what I mean. I would have bought the 12" version but space was a factor for my install. They cost about the same price if I remember right...don't get me wrong, I love the 10" but bigger in this case is almost always better. Good luck bud 🤙🏻

Depending on the other speakers that are in your system, it can help the sound if your other speakers are "fighting" against it & cancelling out the sub's sound waves...all the phase switch does is reverse the polarity (+/-) of the sub. Just flip the switch & sit in the driver's seat...whichever sounds better go with that setting, either 0 or 180.

@@coldsteeloffroad ok ill try it. ITs crazy though how all these songs sound didnt. Some hit and some dont.

I know what you mean about the songs differing...some Slipknot kick drums really pop & some are like "meh". Must have to do w/the frequency & low-pass filter I guess.

I mention it towards the end of the bideo

BATT+ to CAP+, CAP+ to AMP+ (2 power cables will be on same CAP+ post...think CAP+ wired in-line between battery & AMP). CAP- to GND. AMP- to GND.

@@coldsteeloffroad thanks 👍

Rattles outside like the trunk of a '96 Ford Escort on East St. Louis racing rims w/2 12's run on a budget 1000w amp bought at a swap meet cruisin' through a Walmart parking lot. Not bad at all inside, can't really hear any rattle. Just kidding above...it does rattle outside but not that bad.

@@coldsteeloffroad 🤣 I started second guessing for a second there. I know what a 96 Escort with 2 12's sounds like. I got some sound deadening mat, I'll be generous with that and keep my fingers crossed. Preciate it.

@@fightfish3265 How did that deadening mat work out? Was thinking of doing the same.

You're draining my battery

I'm pretty happy w/the 10" and it fits the inside of the tailgate on my Jeep perfectly. If I had the option I'd go w/the 12" though. 10" produces solid bass inside the Jeep as long as the top is on, not obnoxiously loud outside.

What fuse? I don't even remember covering that in the video, haha...I only remember saying that I had the fuse removed while wiring or something like that. Will have to go back & watch I guess. Thanks for the view & comment! U have my interest piqued though...

@@coldsteeloffroad Yes the one you mentioned at 7:39, I've never seen anyone use an atx fuse for a sub install, great video though thanks for making it

@@fridder. oh that little guy? I wouldn't worry about that one 😉 I was surprised to see it too as typically I've seen BUSS-style fuses come in amp wiring kits. That's what came in my Chinese/Walmart-special wiring kit...forget the amperage off top of my head...30 or 50; not a little feller.

I later installed dynamat between the box & tailgate.