Absolutely incredible! I have never been more involved and focused on a video in my entire life. I could watch him work all day. And I’m dying to know what this smelt like.
This is the most helpful lesson I've viewed. He's actually starting from a large amount of alcohol and adding just a few drops. So far in my attempts at hobby perfumery I've been told you mix the formula first. This is a much better approach (albeit more costly on the alcohol front) as I've noticed that smaller amounts of material can smell more like themselves than dense concentrates - a bit like standing too close to the canvas while painting if that makes sense. I shall try this
yes, mixing them on an alcohol base is absolutely necessary. as you mentioned concentrates smell nothing like he stuff they are made from so junding your formula without it being in alcohol can be next to impossible. especially when you are looking for that last finishing touch.
You are plain and simple wrong. This is NOT how a professional perfumer does his work. And i am sorry to be the bringer of this news, but Roja Dove is not a perfumer. No perfumer on this world would create a perfume by "adding drops" to alcohol. You write down a formula, that you made up by yourself and then you measure everything by weight and not by drops. It boggles my mind that people really think that this is how you create a perfume.
@@Grautonparfums from what information I've gathered prior to watching this video just right now... yes, you are very much correct sir/madam. But may I ask why he may be doing it this way? And if he creates the perfumes for his line this way as well? Because I also found it kind of strange to see him doing it this way too. thanks in advance 🤙🤙
Der Oudist lmao so I guess a better way to rephrase my question would be: if this is the method in which he uses to make his perfumes, and (according to yourself) this method is completely incorrect, then why is his brand so highly esteemed and why do his creations so great? I would assume that if this was an incorrect way to mix perfumes the composition would smell terrible.
I believe, that the raw materials, which Roja Dove uses own exceptional quality and many of them are one of the most expensive in the world. I think, that this, what he did here is just a prototype based on very expensive naturals which help to create Roja's vision of a perfume, the whole construction process is only about to start. I mean, that the aroma-chemicals' support of these thick and luxurious naturals will be indispensable to create something very complex and well rounded. I think, that whole the process will be provided in Roja's labs and very accurate calculations will be done as well. I am pretty sure, that the whole construction process of these marvels is way more complex. An absolute master, a very experienced chemist. I love this vid. If you think, that a perfume construction is that simple, you are very wrong. This was just a relaxed interview.
I wonder which base that is and if it is de Laire's Amber 83. I would love to try that and de Laire's other bases like Iriseine, Prunol, and Mousse de Saxe.
Honestly he's probably so used to making perfume that he can get away with using the same strip and not mess up. Idk, maybe it doesn't matter when the strip is being used in all the same materials over and over again. It might not make a difference. All that's happening is adding more and more materials to the beaker and redipping the paper.
You would use a different strip so you can compare the change.This is good when you’re learning and trying to understand how the raw materials interact and work together. However when you already know these things and also know you’re not happy with the blend at that stage then it doesn’t matter. That’s where the experience kicks in
A teacher also shows the apprentice how, to be competitive and savvy in the business of the craft; which is done subtly; Representing this Foundation, he chooses the most concise words and teaches easily doing so. I appreciate his use of vocabulary and the fun of his fragrance pinwheel. (Mine looks like an octopus, though it works.). I would like to see this man influence the design his bottle and packaging. Cheers!
Hey man! just one request…stop charging stupendously high price for your fragrances. There has to be a limit of greed. And thanks for the video. Big fan!
I imagine being a fly on the wall watching a Botticelli or Tchaikovsky quietly work through their creative process would draw from me the same, rare, rapt attention, realizing only after that I'd only taken three breaths, terrified to have interrupted them.
Yes. Looks like the label says "amber..." and since he's not saying that it is ambergris or ambroxen, but rather a base, it is most likely amber xtreme. Good eye! I was wondering myself but it makes sense.
@@SuperIce6374 rewatching it it's not amber xtreme, amber xtreme is a super thick clear liquid and you'd only need a tiny amount, would most likely be a dilution. What he's using is dark brown and is labelled "0066 amber base alcohol. 2019" For a legendary amber base I'd presume it's some sort of Ambreine accord
Thank you, Roja for a great presentation. One question....at about 4:00, did you describe your starting alcohol grade correctly as being 100 proof (50% ABV)? That means you started with a 50:50 mixture of ethyl alcohol/water, right? Or did you actually use pure ethyl alcohol (200 proof)? Again, thank you so much for a wonderful presentation!
i swear artistic professionals talk so much smack. they really want you to think they know what theyre talking about- like " first you take a circle, which is the roundest of the shapes and then you put a smaller triangle inside of it. you see the triangle has 3 sides and will intersect with the circle in precisely 3 locations" lol
Amateur flavor chemist here - I appreciate the insight you offered with every ingredient. Learning those fragrance connections is as much a social skill as it is a technical one. The idea that the depth of flavor in raw patchouli would express the concept of "history" really goes to show how synesthetic our olfactory sense is... and how close it lives to memory, both physically in the brain and psychologically in how we process it.
that's fascinating. Are there also "lucky accidents" or has the perfumer always need to have a clear vision of the end result in his imagination? are there inexpensive scents, that are great creations despite the low price?
🤣🤣 Roger Bird aka Roja Dove is not a trained master perfumer. He worked as marketing professional for Guerlain. He uses ghost perfumers to create his perfumes.
What i want to know is the steps taken from this point to get all the way to a finished product consumer bottle. After he settles on a formula, what does he do with it?
@@gregmason2760 Thats just a marketing name and not an actual product. You should use what is called SDA 40b 200 proof ethanol in the US, or TSDA1 in the UK or cosmetic basiswasser in the EU.
