I spent maybe 15 Winters working in the snow doing construction, the carpenters would chip away the ice and frame the shell and we would be in there walking around on Ice doing the electrical. Except for the really cold days when the romex would start .cracking
@y. o. Oh I spend my fair share in the cold. But not anymore then I have too. I'd rather chill on the couch and watch someone else work on RU-vid when given the opportunity.
I've been a builder for many years and have seen quite a fair bit of sheds. The plans in ryan's package ru-vid.comUgkxB7IXYxLzb_Ichhe45zM3Im5xfEiSp9vB have some of the nicest looking sheds i've seen in a while.
Man, watching you guys scamper around at height framing that second floor brings back both fond memories and regrets. In my youth doing that kind of work was no problem. Into my early forties I developed severe vertigo, and came to the sad realization that I could not safely do much of the work I loved. Now into my 60th year and getting more than four feet up on a step ladder is fraught with danger. Well, that's how it goes. Thanks, EC, for your commitment to education - the how-to, the why-to and, most important, the lessons in how to be a decent human being who builds with integrity.
It’s good that you listened to your brain when it began to warn you about working at heights. Probably the biggest key to that kind of work is confidence. If your body is telling you, “Don’t do this!”, you should probably listen. 🤜🤛
Hi Essential Craftsmen, your videos are amazing. I am from NZ and studying QS, transitioning from the health sector. So completely unaware of the construction industry. Your videos from part 1 to 51 enabled me to identify each part of the house and helped me to align with my studies. I am waiting for the plasterboard linings, the stopping details and roof, and weatherboards and so on-how it gets installed. Your quality of work and the details you put are evident from the videos and I really enjoy them. Thanks once again.
truly enjoy this channel. I live in Denmark where we really don't build like this, which makes it that much more exiting to watch. The whole time you were cutting the wooden I-beams I was thinking Festool TSC55 with the FSK track would make these cuts as easy as cutting a normal 2x4.
That view is priceless! I too am 61. Started as a framer at 17. Bought a leather apron, tape and Stanley Steelmaster 20oz hammer with my first paycheck. Framing in shorts and tennis shoes. Great fun. Watching your videos brings back a lot of great memories. We need young people in the trades now more than ever. Keep inspiring.
I'm the same age and the same story I used to use a rigging axe and man I could swing it, swinging a hammer is a lost art ,we didn't have nail guns back then
Not too many people live somewhere that dinner just walks into the front lawn! I am continually amazed at your physical fitness. You walk around up there better than most guys your age walk on the ground
Im laying here in bed with 4 broken ribs for walking across i joist that didnt have hangers on them yet. Get hangers on rite away. Been doing this 15 years. Should know better. Take your time to make it safe and have fun. Great videos.
Thanks for sharing that. Too many people in the trades have a cavalier attitude about safety. I've seen a lot of accidents in my 37 years in the trades. EVERY SINGLE ONE was due to the victim thinking he was beyond injury. Trade work is dangerous. I'm safe, and even I get hurt. To those just starting out, or those looking to build your own: Safety First!
Broken ribs are Very Painful, and are the worst in the morning, trying to get outta bed....install a grab handle on a steel cable attached to the ceiling, to pull up to get outta bed....
I cracked a couple ribs one year and had to belt stiff magazines around my chest and keep working until they healed. Didn't have enough money to go to the Doctor. Deep breaths and coughing were black-out painful. It was funny how it happened: my oldest daughter had moved in with me and used some kind of beauty oil in the bathtub/shower...I stepped in the next morning and down I went, right on the edge of the tub.
Without seeing the finished house I would buy it just because I trust Scott to build my home. Also I want this house because those views are amazing!!!
I drove up that street at the beginning of this project just to check out the view and the site. It does have some killer views lol I’d liked to have Scott build my house just so I could have done more learning and less teaching lol (my son helped build mine)
My dad was a carpenter and tilesmith. I was blessed to have worked with him and my uncle (god father) on various stages of builds. On one job, some years ago, we were decking the roof. Dad was cutting and my Uncle and I were putting it down. I stepped on the air hose a couple of times and my uncle would yell, "If you fall, you're fired before you hit the groud". I found this channel a few months ago after I broke my hand. My dad and my uncle (his brother) both passed away this year, uncle just before I broke my hand and my dad a month later. I greatly appreciate your series; there is a lot of nostalgia in there for me. Prayers for continued success and blessings for you and yours sir. -Teaxs
It was not mentioned but the dab of glue on the joists is a great idea to keep the floor from squeaking. I am using the same joists on my current build. The guide has a QR code to set a link to send in pictures of any damage joists that need repair and someone will send back repair instructions. Just brilliant. An engineer told me not to use ring shacks with lvl corded joists because it does more splitting than a sinker. I also no longer use glue on the subfloor but polyurethane foam like Huber, it is way strong, easier to apply, and less likely to squeak.
I love what you guys are doing and the value you are bring to future generations with these videos. I remember when I made the decision I wanted to be a carpenter and dedicating countless hours not just learning in the field but watching videos just like these. I would be laying in my bed trying to hash out a process in my head that I just wasn't to sure on. I'd pull out my phone and within 10 minutes, I would have the answer. Thats beauty of the internet and the work you're doing right here. How do I donate? Thank you gentlemen.
long time subscriber, also a big fan of podcast. Love the technical details in this series, I understand ya'lls balancing act of entertainment vs education emphasis... Although clearly ya'lls channel provides a ton of both, but I'd lean into the education side of the pendulum, as hundred if not thousands... if not hundreds of thousands..... of young guys looking to get into the trades for hobby, work, or as a side hustle, will benefit from this great content for decades to come. Thank you sir for doing this channel, and please, dear god, keep up the good work. Cheers.
When i first subscribed to your channel i had no idea how fast it would grow congratulation on going over 600,000 subscribers. GOD BLESS to you and your family.
Not a pro, just a home owner, but I am soaking up this channel like a sponge! The knowledge and inspiration is of great value to me, subscribed, thank you!
EC, there are so many things I love about your vids... You remind me of my main mentor from back in the eighties; leading by example, walking on the tricky part, doing the hard part, etc... Old Bill was trained as a Seabee.. We used 6-1/2" Skilsaws back when he was teaching me, with tool-steel blades and all, and Bill would get them resharpened.... lol, that was back when carbide blades seemed expensive, so Bill taught us to be careful while cutting... The 6-1/2" Skilsaw was easier to wield, but it could still make all the cuts.. When I watch you use a saw, you remind me so much of Bill and I love it! More power to you sir!
Your a smart good man. I wished I worked for you years ago and now. I would know a lot more now and would have worked with a good person. Great work you do. Thank you.
For cross cutting the I beams- cut a piece of ply about a 15" long so it fits snug on the web between the two flanges. Nail across it a straight batten about 3 inches from the right end. Run your skilsaw across, keeping it against the batten, to cut off the excess. Job done-you've made a cutting jig. Mark length on a joist. Put cut end of cutting jig at mark. Cut off with skilsaw. Move on.
I once remodeled small Oregon City city home my grandfather an uncle built. I stripped off sheetrock to bare wood furring living room interior wall. The whole wall was 1X8 fur strips with NOT one knot in entire wall, pure wood the whole wall! I was amazed!
One thing I've thought of that you should relay to your watchers and fans..... If they are having a house built....the care that goes into this framing portion of the job Can, and will vary wildly!! Many times poor materials...unskilled labor....and shortcuts Are employed and this portion of the build...is the most vulnerable to that happening. The work here is exemplary and what all should strive for! Retired after many,many years in the trade! Love it!
House looks great, new subscriber here. I personally like using 1 1/2 lumber for rim joist, especially if your gonna add an additional ledger for a porch or something. Though some swear to only use that 1 1/8 stuff.
That engineered lumber you’re using for the rim joists is some really nice stuff but I always remember it being super expensive compared to regular sawn lumber. That’s the same material OSHA requires to be used for scaffold planking. I remember the masons used to get extremely upset if one of my carpenters took one of their planks and cut it up for something 😬🙄 🤜🤛
I just want to say one thing: The best aspect of this whole series is watching Genuine Quality Building take place, with no Morons or Fools on the job site.....The country needs thousand of builders like you guys, and there are very few, indeed.
I live just down the road from where this house is being built but I’m from Braintree in Essex. With a name like Stephen Martin you’d be welcome here lol. You should come visit the great Pacific Northwest. We’ll take you hunting while you’re here. Cheers mate and happy trails.
I'm from Yorkshire. It's so true. Americans are truly spoilt with all the space they have. The Pacific northwest is absolutely beautiful. I wish there was more opportunity to do this in the UK.
Taunton Press has a good book called Building with Engineered Lumber by John Spier... lots of great info and jigs that make cutting the I-joists quick and simple.
When you mentioned NOT nailing or screwing through the engineered truss flange you mean from top, bottom, toe-nailing, yes? End nailing to rim joist (other joists) is OK? Do you use special hangers for angles other than 90 degrees?
re the cutting disuccsed at 7.50 - put a small packer in if your saw has the depth to avoid the table going down and back up again. to keep the saw at one consistent plane
You could also make a jig or guide to cut the “I-joist” by using a block sitting flush with the flange to which you could nail or screw a strait edge, parallel to the cut, to make easier and more accurate cuts; even angled cuts.
carry a bit of scrap wood that fits into the web of the engineered wood beam and run from mark to mark the scrap will support the skill saw. job done! you can keep the scrap piece in your tool belt.
Great series, enjoying all the videos. You missed a major item off the house plan - an area for all the wildlife to come and say hello and feed ! Keep up the good work.
Dave, You mentioned cutting the I-Joists is a pain... can I suggest you try a small piece of web filler to make the cut area flat for your saw plate.... worked for me
I’m really enjoying this series, and I’m learning a lot. But one question I gotta ask is there *ever* a time when you allow for the possibility that a tradesperson might be a woman? Every single time you refer to a hypothetical inspector, engineer, or tradesperson it’s always “He.” It would really help get your education through to a new generation of builders to update your mental model on this front. Thanks for sharing all of this. Cant wait to finish the binge and see the finished product!
Hi, Essential Crafsman, most walls are build by 2x4, that means the top plate is 4 inch wide ( actual 3.5 inch ), the rim board takes 1 1/2, which leaves 2 inch for i-joist, is it enough for the i-joist to sit on?
in the first seconds I've noticed the trucks parking with their wheels turned to the right. Got curious and find out it's done when you're on a hill for if your brakes fail. Here in the Netherlands such thing is not necessary because we don't have hills at all.
This is a day late and a dollar short I'm sure but when I've dealt with cutting several I joists i always made a "square" for marking square cuts. Just use plywood the width of the web and build that up until its close to being flush with the flange. then put another piece on top of that that is square in relation to the I joist. it only works for square cuts but typically those are the lions share of cuts you make when using them. If you are going to make a lot of cuts at a constant angle you can make one of these at that given angle fairly easily.
I helped build a small house with Rim Joists that look a lot more like OSB then these, which look more like Plywood (not the I-Joist, but the Rim Board). Are these easier to nail through? Stronger? We bent quite a few nails on the OSB type. If it makes more sense to answer this in the podcast, please do. :-D Love love love this series, thanks again.
I used the "OSB" type rim on one of my projects a month or two ago, and I have to say, the rain really made it swell up and mildew. I used the same LVL boards he's using for rim, for my stair stringers, I like them MUCH better. But they cost more. Even so, I'll probably use them instead of the osb type on my next build.
Have you ever tried cutting TJIs with a bigfoot saw and a shooter board? You can make the shooter board so it sits on the TJIs just like a big speed square would.
Hi, I've a different question for you. How are you holding up physically on this build? You seem in good shape, you'd have to be to be climbing all over the place. Have you noticed any conditioning in your musculature, strength gains, lost weight? I know it's a bit of an odd question but I work in the physical training industry 👍
In the UK 🇬🇧the first floor is the ground floor and the second floor is the first floor😂 we call these the chamber joists I love this channel of yours the differences and similarities
Just a tip for those who are using the ibeam type joists with the wall tops flat across, and the joist sitting atop them. These joists cost per linear foot, and if you have a wider span, it might require blocking. Typically you would use a section of ijoist for the blocking. Instead of ordering an extra one or two joists to cut up, just add the length of blocking you need to the length of the joist you will be using. Then make your layout along the top of the walls, or foundation, and line up the joists to the layout just as if you were going to tip them up in place. Leave the one end overhanging Then snap a chalk line along the overhang the distance back from the ends the length of your blocking. If you will need two blocks per run, then do this an additional time. You might at the same time mark the end of the rimjoist too. Then with the joists laying flat, you can cut all your blocks to length at once, and then correct the length of the joist all without moving them a second time. And you don’t have to mark each block separately.
My construction teacher used the same material of your joist as a rim board and filled the void on both sides with blue board insulation that way the floor system was insulated
A rim joist saw guide made from 2 offset pieces of plywood to catch the baseplates edge with a wide cleat to reference to the joist edge can potentially reduce your length marking to just a tick. Every 3 to 5 years an entire pencil would become available for a lucky crew member. Peace.
I built a house and I did everything on it but the plumbing so when I put a toilet flange in as we're pouring the slab I didn't know that a turd wouldn't run down a 2" pipe! The plumber that showed up out there was kinda yelling at me about it, hey I was just trying to get it into ground lol
What are your thoughts on 2x4 manufactured floor truss systems? On paper they seem great, longer spans, stiffer, more space to nail down the T+G plywood, and running mechanicals is dead simple. Any thoughts on longevity or creaking when everything has loosened in 10 years?
The strength of a beam is in the flanges and how far apart they are is the job of the web. That is the reason the webs of beams don't change much in thickness as beams get bigger. The area of the flanges is what carries the load in tension and compression. A prestressed or post-stressed concrete beam is designed so that the steel tendons carry all of the load and are held to the designed spacing by the concrete which also protects the steel. I mention the concrete beam because almost everyone has seen them used in bridges and can relate to the visualization. These wood beams are calculated in design just like a concrete or steel beam. The stresses are calculated and the material is chosen to withstand those stresses so there will be no failure if handled and erected as directed.
It takes more wood and it was more expensive, but my house was built using 2x4 joists. Not exactly old school since you can’t get nor could you afford the old large dimensional lumber joists, but not exactly modern with engineered laminate beams and LVL, etc. But I think stronger in the end. And you don’t have to worry about the plumber hogging out a huge chunk of wood and rendering a joist useless and weak.
If you've got to cut through the I joists, why not use a sacrificial section of a 1-by cutoff wedged between the flanges to give yourself alevel cutting surface?
How about using the I- joist for a rafter on a cathedral ceiling/ roof, instead of a scissor truss? What kind of hanger would it require? They seem really strong.
You mentioned the risk of splitting the flanges of the I-joists when nailing. Would it be much more expensive to joist the 2nd floor with the same LSL product you use just for the rim joist?
Sub Floor adhesive will average out those minor bumps. I'm sure that if it's less than a 1/16th / 2mil it won't matter. Might also be hidden under a wall, in a closet or so close to a wall that you would never tell.
