I’ve been doing small engine repair for over 30 years, one thing i can tell you is that ethanol in the gas is destroying older equipment. If it’s possible run non-ethanol gas, or at the very least use Star-Tron additive. Here in Florida we can get non-ethanol gas just about anywhere. Order a new carb and keep the old one as a spare. It’s possible to rebuild that carb properly, and get it running good, but in time and aggravation savings it’s just worth it to get a new one. Clean up that flywheel, it’s so rusted it’s probably not getting a good spark. That engine will last a long time, no need to replace it. Keep up the good work, love your channel.
I had a 7520 running a small hydraulic motor on a lot bigger fan than you would be running , on a 37ft air-seeder , ran it fine with clean hydraulic filters and the SCV open at about 3/4 open (speed of flow) but just my opinion and need a 3/4" hose on supply side :).....also just a idea , i used old worn discs as a Backing disc ( doubles the thickness almost ) on the leading outer disc on front gangs that take most of the severe loads , and check gang bolts tension often !!!
Try a pto driven hydro pump like an oxbo merger you would just need a smaller pump and use a electrically controlled 2 way hydraulic valve use like a ten gallon tank as your reservoir wire in a toggle switch solve your svc shortage issue. I know the ih 800 12 row planters in late 800's had pto hydro pumps don't know the flow rate but Binkley s probably find out for ya.
Those rolling baskets are really critical for seed bed preparation. We run them with our 36 foot vertical tillage disc for a 1 pass tillage before corn and soybeans. We prefer to do minimum tillage and cover crops . But the landall VT disk cuts up corn stalks without disturbing the soil too much . Next spring you will see the results because your corn should emerge faster and the roots should establish quicker. Great video keep up the good work !
I feel like that tractor should handle that set up better. Maybe duels on back and some weight would help it a bunch. Then again I get that it's not yours.
change the oil in the motor and be done with it, you already rebuilt the carb and this should never happen again. same thing happened in my snowblower this winter and can happen on almost any small engine since the gas tank is above the intake in the carb the thing just keeps letting fuel in until it fills the block over time. the engine is fine don't replace it
You can add a PTO pump (I know at least 35) but like $600 but plumbing of it can get tricky. If you work on seeder get new carb & coil cheaper than your time & carb rebuilt kits are cost half way there
It's important that you make the ground good loose. How heavier the machinery, how deeper you have to make it loose. For example a fendt 1050 with 3axle tipper weighs roughly 45tons when you then plow it you have to almost go 2feet down in the ground to make sure you don't wals the ground at that depth
Let's calculate how large hydraulic motor you need. Your engine look like a 15 hp, maybe a little less. That's roughly 11 kW. Your flow is 16 gpm converted to liters per minute, you get 61 l/min. The formula used to calculate the whole thing is 11 = (61 x P) / 500. We solve for P. (11 x 500)/61 = 9. You need a pressure of 9 bar. Let's make it safe and add 25 % for losses in the mandatory cooler, hoses and other stuff. I think even a compact tractor can deliver 11.3 bar at 16 gpm. You have at least 150 bar at the pump, most likely around 200. That's 3000 psi over the pond. I can't see that this is an impossible project. Yes, you need to do some electronic magic to turn off the fan when you need to raise or lower the implements but that's not too hard. You can steal a manifold from an old mid size excavator and wire up a control box with some fancy knobs. And you need to gear up. As an example, I found a motor that gives 15 kW (continuously 8) which runs at 300 rpm, 165 bar @ 60 l/min. It's made specifically for agricultural use and would fit you perfectly with a 1:12 gearbox.
Seems like the new camera is doing better, much brighter there at 13/14 minutes in. Don't know if that the tractors cab lights or the camera but it looks more detailed and brighter.
Over here in the uk we Call the baskets “ Crumblers” for the reason that they crumble the soil and leave it fluffy, great content , keep going yr doing a grand job , 👍👍👍
Just be careful of the speed you run with the disc anything over 4.5 5.5 mph you can get a wave in the field from the disc rocking front to back can turn a smooth fields into ruff one's
@@DuffyAg sorry I thought that was your dads I didn’t know them older tractors are a lot easier to work on that’s for sure I can’t seem to get anything newer than the 50s lol
Have you considered a pto pump for the blower? In need about 12 gallons to run my blower so ran it on a pto pump so the tractor can keep up with everything else
That tractor will handle it but it’s definitely a lot for it would probably do a little better with duals on the back to get some better traction and weight distribution. Anyways nice old unit ya got there man don’t know about there but here in north eastern Oregon you wanna have whatever fall crop in the ground by October 8th to get enough grow time before the super cold winter hits the second of October it hit 20 degrees that night so I know it’s coming haha;
Rolling baskets do a nice job, but you will find that along with rocks, they will also find every piece of scrap iron and wire that you never knew existed. 😵
Have u thought about an electric fan for the seeder? Then ud have a control box in the cab so u can control the speed of the fan and switch it on/off in cab. Just a thought
Id have to agree some of it is because it was filmed in 5k but edited to 1080 due to issues editing 5k. Still learning with it. Put it back to 4k filming
if you read this I will give you some really good advice. if you need to tear down your disk GANGS to replace Bearings and inner blades. lay the complete gang in a water trough or tank ect that the water covers the bearings and spools ect. leave it soak for min 24 hours water softens the dirt and rust and they will come apart so simple. if do not want to listen to me, work ya a- - off and do it the hard way. kinda ticks me men on these you tube channels want us to suport them and buy all their stuff ect ect, but none want to listen to a GIRL who is actually smart enough to know how to do most or more things than the men. Just like the JAW DROPPERS who come to where I work to see a GIRL WITH A BOW IN HER HAIR, fixing semi trucks and trailers. I just smile like a shinning silver dollar when my boss tells them he would never replace me for a man because i can do it better than most men. So if fixing ya disc Gangs tossem in water and leavem so the water has time to work and you will see what i mean
Looks like the stabilization going crazy in low light. Heard not great things about the new 10 especially over heating issues indoors but mainly a settings things.
I had a no-till drill and also an all purpose Land Pride seeder. There was no comparison between the seeded fields and the no-till fields. Seeded was always better. No substitute for creating that nice seed bed.
I believe that no-till works in very specific situations. Outside of that it's akin to going on a road trip in a a currently available 100% electric vehicle: a lesser performing and very costly option no matter how fast you can go. It's been all the rage by theorists for the last 40+ years. the same folks that want nothing sprayed. The saying "cheap, fast, long-lasting; which two of those do you want?" applies but in an obviously different context.
Might want to check condition of Hyd fluid and how long since filters were changed. That tractor should Do it all. Light disk and basket set up. I would amagine 2 pumps on the tractor. 1 for steering/ brakes Other for outlets, rear end lube pressure points ect.
Agree, Buy the 13hp Predator engine at Harbor Freight for $400. Get the extended warranty for $40 and if blows up or won't start they'll swap it for a new one.
@@lt1nut their not much more about another $300-$500 depending on what John Deere dealer you go to I used to work for John Deere and I've switched out alot of those for the 8000 series it's improves steering and hydraulic response on those old 7520's fair warning is you have any weak lines you'll find them as soon as you start it with the new pump
@@venom83xxx Thanks! Over the counter, no core, high flow is only $3-500? Would a suitable hydraulic motor be the same? Can I guess the same again for hoses and fittings?
