That is the first purposely built over frame roof I have seen. I have had a few calls over the years by homeowners, who did their own editions and made the error. I just laid a 2 by on one roof and scribed the line on the high ridge beam, deducted for sheeting an cut. Then measured, scribed, adjusted saw angles, on the spot. The cuts weren’t as nice as yours, but it worked. I wish this knowledge was available when I started. Great job! I really enjoy all the innovations I.e. framing perimeter walls with gables or eaves and siding installed first, using metal wall ties on top plates.
It is amazing to see how framers in different states construct a house. By use of material choice, building methods, use of equipment and choice of tools. Keep up the good work.
Best framer I have ever seen. Wish I could learn by working for you but I’ll soak up what I can from the videos. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
Bro if you want to learn check out volunteering for Habitat for Humanity in your area. There are some real O.G.'s helping them. A lot of the guys are retired and have 40 or 50 years of carpentry experience.
Great job.Enjoy and learn from your channel..I think it was said that the 2 Gable roofs were 7/12" and the over frame roof 6/12" .So the reason the overframe roof is at different elevations tying into
Great work guys. I wonder ate you going to cut the roof at the joining roofs to let the attic insulator through? Or will there be 2 attic access points?
So no venting so that air can pass through from eve to peak above the insulation ? If you fill the cavities completely with insulation won’t you get condensation ?
overframe ridge beam is at diff elev. to 7/12" Ridge hgt. is ????. The total run of 7/12" Gables are very different as in one much wider than the other? All in all i need to know why the elevation of overframe ridge beam is so assemetrical.Please reply im losing my mind lol lol .Not really but still very interested.Thanx.Be safe.
don't need it for cathedral roof types... which I'm assuming this is. only need the ventilation for roof with attic space that is prone to condensation in the attic space where warm air escaping from the ceiling contacts the cold roof sheathing above. hope this helps!
Good work framing it up guys. One question that I’ve had and nobody has answered it: doesn’t shooting through your valley sleeper into the Zip sheathing compromise it’s integrity as the moisture barrier?
Sorry one more question, so to form the pocket to drop the ridge beam in do you just cut thru the double top plate you put on gable ? or slide it under then put a spacer on top
The company doesn’t know how to do business .I would not recommend buying their bags he’ll hold on to your money for 6 months then getting pissy if you ask about it .
Can someone please tell why some builders use rafters and some just use trusses? Its it cause its easier or cheaper or is it differen't cultures teach different methods of building.
This company switched from trusses in the late 80's because of scheduling issues. All the old timers could hand cut. After pricing it, we've stuck with it because we control the schedule, zero truss uplift, open attics etc. The cost is about the same all things considered for us.
Standing on top of a 12 foot ladder. I was unable to do that when I was training to be an electrician. My employer didn't like that. Not sure how osha feels since i was fired. Great job framing nonetheless.
@@AwesomeFramers 30 Second mark you can clearly see it. Its cool, these guys are worth their weight in gold. Its awesome they can do all this without a problem. I love building, I'm doing a shed right now. But i'm just saying its unsafe, it clearly states that on the ladder and i was forced to attempt it by a real jerk journeyman. And things like that kept me from pursuing a career in the electrical field or carpentry so I went with the cabinetmakers. The Union didn't protect me.
@@AwesomeFramers If you find time to go over that a few minutes in a sub floor video or whenever beams are present I'd love to see that! Wish your company was local to Vancouver WA, would enjoy being a part of your team.
If you land the rafters on top of the ridge, you have to find a way to get insulation up there before sheathing. We find it much easier to just butt the rafters. Its just a preference thing unless the plans call for a lowered ridge as an architectural detail
@@AwesomeFramers Ok thanks. I'm a novice builder and I've only used truss systems. My only issue with stick building is my rafter runs would be close to 20 feet, so not sure if I would need a mid point purlin ?
The guy that runs badger bags has very thin skin and will not build you a bag unless you put up with his shit for half a year ,I’d recommend diamondback
@@josebonilla3897 I'm sorry for the delay bro. I'm wearing the carpenters set just a custom color. I asked him to raise the hammer sleeve and shorten the sleeve.
3 leg ladders are nice as you can get them in tighter spots, and also, like a 3 legged chair they balance better. It doesn't matter so much if one of the legs is on debris or extension cord, it will not tend to wobble.
Another odd way to do rafters.I wonder what geographical location you are working in.Blocking along the ridge, sleepers, no brackets,gluelams,no birdsmouths and so on.
Its only odd because you are unfamiliar with it. All rafters must be blocked full height at the eaves in our seismic zone according to the code and our engineering. The blocking at the ridge is very common for the roof diaphragm and required by our engineering. It can eliminate the need for hangers, so its a grea place to use up scrap. The ridge is a glulam and no birdsmouth is required at the ridge. An easy Google search will show different options for connections. In this case the ridge was held up for maximum access in the attic for the mechanicals. Different doesn't mean odd, it means different.
@@TimUhler1977 There are four points at the bottom of the valleys that will get all of the water from every storm. Those are future weak spots. I looked at roof for 31 years and designers know very little about water damaging roofs. ow this is in Washington State so i don't think they get much snow. If they do, leaking in 10 years.
@@joeverna5459 Hey Joe, I don't think you've seen the house finished, so it might be best to reserve your judgement until then. If you have seen it, then thanks for watching 😁 I don't understand your specific point. All the valleys die into gutters. Can you be specific where you think it will leak?
@@AwesomeFramers My background is homeowners insurance claims for 31 years. with roof slopes less than a 5 on a valley near a gutter will have snow freeze and cause ice dams. i don't know what kind of winters you have in Washington. The really good contractors revisit their houses 5 years later to see what works and what doesn't. i can't tell you how many 500-750k houses that have window, stucco, roof, gutter, and foundation failures. i worked with several engineers and grew up with an engineer so i have a good understanding of construction. Also, been in court a dozen times arguing poor construction techniques. You seen to have solid construction techniques. In 31 years i have come across about 10 contractors who were good at their profession. I try to encourage young people to get into the trades. Three things i learned from listening to home owners about contractors: The ones who show-up, follow-up and clean-up are the ones that get the jobs. I call it the three UPS. stay safe.
@@joeverna5459 These roof slopes are 6 & 7. We don't get ice dams here and the local codes and method of building reflect that. So we won't get the leaks you mentioned. Additionally we've been building in this exact location since 2001. When leaks happen, its always after storm debris punctures the shingle, and I can only recall that happening twice. I hear you about shoddy workmanship. Its a shame that with housing prices as high as they are, that you don't actually get what you pay for anymore.
I watched both of you shoot nails through the top of a roof rafter...NOPE, as any old school carpenter will tell you that is not to be done as you will hit those nail heads when cutting the roof plywood...
About to take on a remodel with a beam/cathedral ceiling over the additions of dining (1 ridge) and great room + garage (2nd ridge). That we will live in and begin to build our dream home on the adjacent lot, also planning on doing 10ft 2x6 walls with beam/cathedral possibly with a mezzanine.
Should have rip your subfacia at an angle ,if ya took the time to rip angle on all your ridge blocks , me personally don,t like the gap and just lining it with your speed square
The reason the blocks are ripped is to make it easier to use them to keep a consistent air gap. I don't personally see any reason to bevel subfascia when the soffits are closed. It doesn't save us any time.
@@AwesomeFramers mostly so ya got good nailing so ya not just nailing into top corner of the facia butbdoes make it more solid ..butbit all about time and money these days we always took the time to do extra thing like that back in my day..god thats sounds old .but i am
@@rickdougherty8058 My point is that it doesn't need to be "more solid" than it is nailing into 2x6 subfascia that isn't beveled. There is no actual strength added because of the bevel.
My point is that over time just nail into the top corner of the facia cuz that’s what ya will be doing only catching a small amount and I,ve seen it many time especially in cold weather climates it start to heav and pull out over time and ya can see it when ya look down it,and the extra solid nailing is by far better and more solid ,ya it’s extra work but better quality,,,
