@@lornelorne5727 If your printer is exposed to the internet, YES. My guess would be - since no one is supposed to be able to sign into the machine (without being jailbroken), it’d be a moot point so they hardcoded credentials into services?
I wonder if changing the ssh *port* would cause similar problems? (Or even if it's possible) - if not then this could be a potential way to lock down SSH access to a certain degree, without changing the root password, or affecting locally running services on the printer which don't require network access and therefore care less about the ssh port.@@andersgeorgsson
I am so sorry I couldn’t pronounce your name correctly. Thank you so much for providing this for us! you’ve single handedly make this machine better for all of us. thank you.
Would you happen to have an answer to my question? so when I tried to access the printer and install your guide it said access denied so I don't know whats wrong I did every single step on mac in terminal
Thanks for this. The instructions have changed greatly since you made this video, but for the better. All of those includes that you were copy/pasting were incorporated into the script and there are many more options than before.
Thanks for very informative video!!! I've applied this to my K1 and can definitely see a huge difference in the VFA on the X-Axis after being able properly calibrate input shaping for both axis. Keep up the good work!!
Bought my K1 Max a couple of weeks ago, and after a night of getting frustrated with the first layer on a print, I came back to this video and rooted the printer. It was a night and day difference going from ripping up the first layer a third of the way through to a perfect layer every time. Awesome! Although some things have been added and changed with the helper script, this video really helped to get all the necessary bits going. Thanks for the walkthrough.
Just did this today and Guiloz really popped off... in the helper script installation menu, there was an option to install "Improved Shapers Calibrations". Between that and the KAMP installation being updated in this version of the helper script, I didn't have to touch anything in any .cfg files! I was poking around to make sure I wasn't gonna leave stuff messed up but everything looked OK and my K1 is up and running with shapers dialed in & kamp adaptive mesh + line stuff going. Very convenient tool for sure. Thank you for the video and great breakdown. 😁😁
Thanks so much for this. I got an Ender 3 almost exactly 5 years ago and have been using/modding/remodding ever since. I decided to get the K1 for Christmas and it's in the garage waiting to be unboxed on Monday per an agreement with my wife. Thanks to you I'll have plenty of fun stuff to do with it. You a great presenter and should have a lot more subs...
I came across your channel about three years ago when I got my first 3-D printer, which was a Voxlab Aquila. At the time you were the only person that had anything out there for it and I really appreciated it. I've been away from printing for about two years and I just got myself a K-1 Max.I'm happy to see that you're giving me some useful information again, thanks!
@@3DPrintSOS I also came across it back then, I believe it involved the modified menus. Have since built a Voron 2.4 like everyone else and now own a K1 Max.
This is FANTASTIC! I have a K1 Max and I've done well with things stock, so far, but I've wanted to take things further. This was exactly what I needed to see since a lot of people on r/CrealityK1 seem to mostly already understand Klipper and I never really seemed to be able to find a good walkthrough for a first timer. You have my Like & Sub and I hope to see more goodies about the K1 series in the future!
Thank you for the very helpful video. I hope everything works as it should now. Because before with the stock firmware, the print results were much better. Since I couldn't find the page with the Inputshaper code, I had to take a photo of your video and copy the crap, BUT, it worked! Lots of love from Germany ❤❤❤❤
What a great introduction to installing all the firmware to get all of the advantages that can be had. My only concern is a novice user, thinking he or she wants the added functionality but has no idea about how the code basically works. It would be very easy to make mistakes that could completely hose the machine. It would be nice to include a warning that if the user is not familiar with these files, the user should recruit help from someone who is.
Props for this video! I had written the K1 off as an option for corexy due to the firmware + poor customer service. After seeing how much open source firmware improved using my Ender 3, the K1 my be back on my list to consider if I can change the firmware!
Camera was acting a bit strange on Fluidd so I Reset my K1 Max and following your instructions again, got a good laugh at the "I'm gonna fast forward this until it's done..... Oh there we go" part again.
This is perfect. I've had my K1 Max for a week but I'm already feeling those limitations. Especially using orca slicer the one click print doesn't work with creality os so it's time to change.
Thanks for the great video! I have a Max and have been searching for info on Klipper, trying to understand what it is all about and WHY I would want it. The input shaper portion looks to be the most important at the moment. Have read the info on the machine about the dangers of rooting it, so thinking now about do I want to go ahead with it. Your video explained a lot, thanks so much for sharing with us!
Hi I have successfully rooted my K1C following this video the only thing i had to differently is to go to the tools option on the helper menu and select "Enable camera settings in Moonraker" to get the camera to work as it didn't work when i logged into Fluidd Thankyou for the tutorial and thankyou Guilouz for the helper script.
Hey Fedor! Been a while but as usual another excellent informative video and great to see the channel grow even more. Been holding off on adding a K1 Max to the farm due to the usual Creality new release issues (as usual) and the fact that I am still in love with my X1c/AMS combo but want a larger core xy. However with the open source release and the hardware fixes it may be time to pull the trigger on a Max. Looks like it is finally just about ready for primetime. Though there are solutions available a easy to integrate MMU would be welcome. Look forward to what Creality comes up with as I know there is one in the works. As always keep up the good work!
Rich! Great to hear from you. It is definitely getting closer and closer. I have been loving mine now that all the quirks are out. They still have a few to iron out but it’s close. Yeah, an MMU from Creality has been my number one request from them during our convos.
@@3DPrintSOS during the warmer weather I tend to lay back as it's car projects/modding season. Now that the weather is turning cooler and approaching hibernation season, it back to printing full swing. Interesting...what do you feel still needs to be ironed out? Yep MMU is a must. That's the problem effectively except for size limitations and cost the X1c/AMS has reduced the rest of my printers to dust collectors...lol. A larger build surface and lower cost alternative is very appealing to me. I will be grabbing a Max as soon as I clear out a few more printers to make room. Next time I see a decent sale price, which eventually will be coming knowing Creality and it's resellers I'll pull the trigger.
The input shaper for starters. We had to get a community fix for it essentially. Why? No idea. It seems like such a simple fix on their end and the end result it better quality…So I can’t see a reason for them not to do it. Just simple things like the chain and PTFE tube hitting the left side of the Max when using the full bed and making noise and rubbing plastic bits off. Dont get me wrong, its been awesome and im just nitpicking, but there are a few little details that have me rubbing my head. haha@@richm658
Thanks man! This is great! Following along and installing these codes makes me feel like a WIZARD! hahaha! I couldnt install the camera settings tho. It says "you have the new hardware camera and it is not compatible". I just got my K1 Max last week and it has some different things, like the new hot end from the K1C. I bought the Micro Swiss Flow Tech hotend but it was for the old K1 Max hotend so they were making new adapters for it. MicroSwiss was super helpful tho and told me 3wks for new hardware but they finished and sent in less than 1 week! The new K1C hotend doesnt look too bad tho. Anyway, thanks for the awesome video!
Incredible that Creality still haven't fixed their input shaper method despite the Sonic Pad community forcing them to do so many months ago before the K1 series even came out!
Great video, thanks. I have already done this without your tutorial, but this is perfect for sending to my friend who is on the fence about doing these steps. Next... how about getting us some more fps on the camera :)
Great information, Thanks! it's nice to follow along and make sure my conclusion of the instructions is the same as someone who has already tried it. Thanks to Guilouz as well. I ended up with ZV 44.6hz on Y and ZV 48hz on X for my all stock (besides Swiss nozzle) K1 Max. I plucked my belts and it sounded about right when I unboxed, perhaps I need to check again or maybe yours was done on a K1 without the lidar?
Fantastic video. Helped me make all the settings without knowing about SSH and the deeper levels of Klipper. Thank you very much for all your work. Does anyone happen to know where the rattling on the Y axis is coming from. I have the problem on the right side. Already ruled out all possibilities.
Thank you so much for this video... though, hopefully I'm not going to make myself look dumb, but it could use with an update! A fair amount the script does now that is no longer having to be done manually, ie, fixing the xy in the input shaping. I wouldn't mind figuring out how to get the graph out of it!
I don't understand why they didn't have this access on these printers already. I was heavily disappointed with my K-1Max at first because the z-offset was too low and there was no way to adjust it in the UI or on Creality Print which didn't make any sense, kinda taking steps backwards by removing ability to adjust Z-offset as you print so don't know what they were thinking.
evvery company has their ways of doing things and issues to work out. it just takes a lot of speakinng up by the communityto force them to implement changes we want, we are their customers in the end so its their best intrest to listen and like creality always has, they are listening
Great video, appreciate it! I'm going to give this a try tomorrow on my K1 Max, maybe I'm unlucky but mine seems to be having issues with the Z offset. Most of the first layer isn't connected at all, but some areas are rock solid, hopefully this helps. Unfortunately, the input shaper isn't working on my K1 Max, it keeps crashing the firmware when it tries, hopefully there's a fix for that at some point.
Your detailed presentation allowed me to successfully "rooting" and installing Fluidd and Mainsail on my K1 printer. I searched everywhere for explanations on how the macros installed in Fluidd and Mainsail work, but I did not find any. Can you give us a presentation of these macros, please?
Umm, the helper script has changed and some of these steps no longer work due to a change in the folders and file locations. I was trying to find the input shaper fix and not on his wiki anymore or at least that I could find. I hoped the new firmware fixed it but its the same.
Wow great information and easy to follow and understand, you were right it needed to be done. On a different note do you feel the Max is on par with the P1s? I had my mind set on the P1s but just saw a Black Friday deal for basically the same price. I know they say the P1s is dialed in but the extra build volume would be nice. Any thoughts?
I think it’s on par until you add AMS into the mix. That’s the only thing that the K series cannot compete with. Otherwise, I’ll likely be choosing opensource over closed 9/10 times.
My K1 max rooted itself after just 4 days of use. By rooting itself I mean it dug holes in the build plate right through to the metal after an auto bed level, ruined the nozzle and hotend, then started throwing 111 codes which is failed man board or print head board. It's totally rooted.
Like your video, only have my k1for 2 days and haven't rooted yet. If you don't put the port after the ip do you get the standard creality layout after rooting? I have an ender 5 pro and 3 pro running on klipper with mainsail so i think it would be nice to make the K1 run the same interface but i would like to be able to go back because sometimes the simplicity of that could be enough.
Got my k1 installed todya ahd it over a week sititng in tis box, coming from a soncipad i just rooted it right away since i just wanted to go to the same interface ive been using for a while now
Seems like a bit has changed since this video was made. Especially the manual part of installing KAMP and setting up the input shaper fix. Now it seems like you can just install input shaper and run the macro from fluidd or mainsail and KAMP no longer needs to be manual added to the config.
You are right. There’s been some improvement. However, the input shaping still hasn’t been separated. So doing it from the macro only does the X and the Y is hard coded. It doesn’t actually apply. So “fixing” it manually is still a thing.
Thank you for your clear and informative video. I am just starting to scratch the surface of clipper. (Always used marlin)and I have a question about the macros that were added / changed for the input shaping. There is the updated INPUTSHAPER and the added INPUT_SHAPER. What is the difference? It looks like the INPUTSHAPER is moving the head and storing automatically. So why dit we add a new macro Thanks for your answer
The honest answer is that I didnt clean up the macro screen. You can always add a . in the macro to hide it from the menu. So best practice would be to go through your macros either in Klipper or in Fluidd settings and set which ones you want to see and use. In Fluidd you can even set categories. Worth the time for sure. I do that on my Voron machines and it makes it easier to use instantly
Just a note: Some of the things show here have been incorporated into the newer version of the script and therefor removed from the instructions page. The "fix issue with input shapers" for example, just run the macro. No need to follow the video.
I have one more question: are you planning to do such a tutorial with the new version of the program, because there are a lot of things in the new software that are difficult to find and modify? such as: IMPUTSHAPER (gcode_macro.cfg) or KAMP but for K1C
Are you still working on the ender 3 v3 ke review? if so have you tried to plug a camera on the usb-c port on the back of the lcd. also do you think rooting will be posible on the v3 k3?
you able to do a video showing how to get KAMP working on it after its installed?? I followed what you did and even doing a benchy it still does the entire bed lvl not just where its going to print the benchy..
The factory reset is in the same wiki from this video. All you do is open the file in your browser, type IP address and it factory resets the machine. You can update the machine to any firmware, stock or not regardless though.
Hey Man, thank you for this video. I need your help please. After I install the scrip, before every print, the printer purge a blob of filament in the center of the bed. How can I fix this? Thank you.
Do you think on you might be able to create a video of how someone might shim or trim/tram the k1 max bed so it’s somewhat level? I have not been able to find a video like that regarding the K1 max.
followed your guide and installed everything, however whenever I load fluidd it comes up with the below error; Moonraker has failed plugins, please check your logs, update your configuration and restart moonraker. - history Moonraker warnings found. - Component 'history' failed to load with error: 'Cursor' object has no attribute 'getmulti' Have had a look around and can't seem to resolve the error, have you experienced this or know how to resolve?
That is not one I’ve seen before. This happens after installing fluidd? Sounds like it’s missing a line somewhere in moonraker. I would reinstall it and reboot.
Mainsail is great ,becarfull with some buttons thay shutdown yuor printer just touching them (like the red Emergency button , or the Cooldown button , if yuo tuoch it ,all temps go to cero without warning , and gone stop tuo printing work if yuo dont turn on again , but apart of that is a very good interface , other is the play and stop button after a pause ate very close , if yuo press stop , by error, yuo kill yuo paused print , i think must be a confirmtion dialog window first
Thank you very much for the good explanation. I have a K1 Max and everything works perfectly, except for one thing. I don't see a snapshot from my camera in Fluid. When I click on the camera tab I see the Timeplase, Timelapse Status and Timelapse settings. However, I don't see an image from my camera in the status.Under settings/timelapse, the Camera field is empty, when I click on the field I get No Data Available... When I check in Creality print I can see my camera. Any idea how I can fix this? Thank you in advance.
Hi Sara! to get the camera back, head to settings in the left hand side in fluidd. there is a camera section there. In the dropdown, select the default camera, and head home. Then just reboot. the stock camera will pop right up. :)
Hi Fedor, great show keep them coming. This comment is for my ELEGOO NEPTUNE 3PLUS. I printed a 20x20x20 cube, but it came out on the X-20.32, on the Y-20.34, and on the Z-20.21. How can I fix this? In my MOTOR PLUSE, E-AXLE PULSE, it has a number of 390. Please help me fix this problem. Thank you Walter
Followed your instructions and even for a newbie it was easy! Love the greater control... who wouldnt need that. I do have a question/problem. After doing the root and install, my system shows low disk space in the files configuration screen and one other. The little orange Hand! Any ideas? Prior to doing to root I used Crealitys routine to shoot the printer back to default... so there were no printed files and only the 3 -4 gcode files like the benchy that it comes with.... Ideas?
The way you installed KAMP. does it do anything different because it is K1 Max or would that be exactly the same for plain vanilla Klipper? I ask because I just manually installed KAMP on a Pi Zero, But not sure if I did all the commands correctly. The script would have been handy.
HI, I can't access my printer through web interface with the IP address with Opera (nor firefox, Chrome or Safari) as it tells me connection refused 192.168.1.34 do not authorize the connection, check proxy and firewall but I haven't any of them... Could you help ?
Hu, thanks for answering... i did but it was not working... i uninstalled et reinstalled everything and now it works... some packages havent been installed properly
HI OR HELLO , AND THANKS FOR THE VIDEO, EVEN THOUGH ITS BEEN 8 MONTHS FROM THIS VIDEO , I HAVE PURCHACED A K1 MAX , AND THINKING OF ROOTING IT, MY QUESTION IS , BEING THAT IN THE NEAR FUTURE AFTER CREALITY STARTS SHIPPING THE K2 PLUS AS YOU KNOW . THE MULTI-MATERIAL SYSTEM WILL BE AVAILABLE , FOR THE K CERISE , WILL THE CFS SYSTEM WORK WITH THE PRINTER THAT IS ROOTED OR DO WE HAVE TO RESET THE K1 MAX TO FACTORY, . THANKS ONCE AGAIN.
I simply desire the capability to print over LAN using Cura or Prusa Slicer. Additionally, I want to monitor and control my printer's progress through a mobile app. Do I need to follow these steps, or is there a more straightforward method? I'm concerned about making mistakes during the process, and I also want to receive future (over the air) updates from Creality.
Then all you really need is to get to installing either Fluidd or Mainsail. Both will allow you to connect via LAN to either the browser or any slicer.
All very very nice, but no one talks about how on this printer it is possible to carry out a possible firmware restore via Phoenix of the original operating system, through a restore procedure.
I cant get input shaping to work. Any ideas how to fix it? I have run the input shaping marco, and saved config. But i still get a huge amount of ringing
I would check your belt tensions, check if anything is loose. Dont forget, the speed plays a huge role in this as well. Sometimes going faster actually helps big time. One other trick is to slow the outside perimeter of the print down to around 80mm/s. That’s what Bambu does in their profiles.
will the crality app no longer work after you root? Its easier to access and monitor via their app than trying to VPN into my network every time i want to check on the printer.
16:52 Do you actually need to copy the includes from the KAMP_Settings.cfg to the printer.cfg? In theory the fact that you already included the KAMP_Settings.cfg file means that the includes set up in there are already configured.
Some people have argued that it works for them by just uncommenting them in the doc, but I have been unlucky. Onetime, they did an update to the dock and everything stopped working. So for me, I just manually include them so I know I have defined them myself.
Beautiful video, I just bought a k1, and I was reading on the net that also has dimensional problems and I wanted to solve them if I make this change when it arrives, do I invalidate the printer warranty?
You can always revert back to stock. I’m assuming they don’t want you in there. Have a peak at the text when you are given the roof UN and PASS. wonder if it’s outlined there.
I kept looking for a way to change the IP address in Creality print program, then I realized you just used your browser to access the machine directly and the software loads a better version than the program they have you install when you get teh machine. I wonder if they made some of these changes to the regular firmware. When I check mine, X and Y were already different config numbers and after I think they were the same.
Does rooting the machine mean we have to manually update it when new updates come out or will the wireless update feature still work? Also do we have to root to use slicers like OrcaSlicer or will rooting make OrcaSlicer not compatible with the K1?
No, automatic updates still happen. Rooting just enables the ability to use a different front end other than Creality and use Wifi Enabled Slicers such as OrcaSlicer.
It’s actually mandatory if you want automatic z offset. You can edit anything you want in the config, but if it doesn’t clean the nozzle, then uses a dirty nozzle to probe the bed, you’re going to have an extremely uneven bed mesh
