Thanks Ryan, as a guide guiding guides, the guides you've generated as guidance for guides have been invaluable for us aspiring guides. P.s. Just wanted to keep the "heh guides for guides" thing rolling.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Two comments: 1. Mammut actually doesn't product ropes anymore. They outsources rope production to Teufelsberger in Austria. Teufelsberger also produces their own ropes under the Maxim brand. If you watch the Hard is Easy episode on cut resistant ropes with Mammut, you can see the R&D engineer from Teufelsberger who was working on the rope. I don't want to say Mammut ropes are bad. Teufelsberger is an excellent company. 2. It's super funny how you call these 9.8 ropes bulky. In Germany, these are the standard topes you will see at sport crags. Often routes are short (below 15-20 m) so weight isn't a concern and working routes on a skinny 9.0 rope will destroy your rope very quickly.
What diameter/rope would you carry for rappeling off of alpine scrambles. I have been using a 40 meter sterling marathon 8.8 half rope and I am looking to lighten up. Thanks for the great video!
I think that rope you already have is pretty good. Are you talking soloing on the way up and only using the rope on the way down? If that's what you're going for you could check out the Petzl Pur line, It's 6mm and has a strength of 15 kN. Pair that with an ATC alpine guide and you can save weight, space, and still get down whatever you want.
@@ryantilley9063 yes that is what i am doing. Solo non technical peaks in my local range. Some have alot of exposure or are just safer to rap off rather than downclimb. I will take a look at the petzel line you mentioned. Thanks again for all the info!
Do you keep track of how many falls a rope has taken? I see ropes that say they can handle so many falls and I was wondering how one can tell if we don’t keep track.
My understanding is that all those ratings are based on what they consider ‘UIAA falls’, which is like Factor 1.5. It’s hard to equate that to the average lead fall - probably impossible. This is a guess, but one F1.5 fall probably stresses the rope the same as 40+ F0.1 falls, which is the most common on sport. For myself, if there is a truly massive fall, I just pinch through the tie-in end of the rope and where the rope pivoted around the protection that caught them. Keeping track of the number of falls seems super unnecessary… just check them regularly and keep them clean
This is a good topic for a video and one I haven't talked about yet, but in short I don't keep track of how many falls my rope has taken. Part of that is my ropes wear differently since I manly climb in the alpine and on long routes. Since my ropes aren't catching a bunch of lead falls I look for different things. The number of UIAA rated falls marked on the package and on the end cap of your rope is not at all the maximum amount of falls a rope can hold. You can literally fall hundreds of times on a rope before you have to retire it! The best thing you can do I watch your rope for signs of wear and retire it if you're at all worried about the integrity. $200 for a new rope is nothing compared to a hospital bill!
That can be kind of a tough question because it does depend on your route that you're going for. Mostly I would use a 30-40m triple rated rope (if you're going through a lot of rock terrain.) If I have to do a few rappels then I may have to have a longer rope to be able to deal with that, possibly go up to a 60m. My favorate rope for something like this is the Mammut Alpine Sender 8.7 dry. It's thin enough to be light and durable enough to deal with the rock scrambles and terrain belays. Really you're trying to get away with the least amount of rope possible, but still be safe. If I'm walking off of the route then I'm in the 30-40m range and with rappelling most often I have 60m. Gaining a quiver of three or four ropes can be helpful with selecting the right one.
