Between taking the cutting and budding is about four months, just got to make sure the sap is flowing enough for the bark to peel easily. You don't want to have to tear or scrape it open. The soil in the pots is general purpose potting mix you can buy anywhere. As long as there is not much fertiliser in it until it makes roots then it should be fine. After the plant has made roots then you can give a teaspoon of rose food every three weeks. Any more and you could burn it's tender root system.
I left a very rude comment three years ago. I called your earlier video "useless". It supposed that it was was more to entertain and to show how quickly you have to bud graft 50,000 roses! This video was what I was looking for and showed me in detail how your work is done. There is no excuse for my earlier bad manners, so this is my apology to you and the amazing work that you do.
CHARLES CLOPTON Apology accepted. Actually when I did that video I was naïve to how big the world of roses is and how much people love them and are keen to learn. I ended up doing this video because of the wave of comments. Yours was mild compared to some I have had! I have seriously thought about removing the other video many times but it gets more likes than dislikes so hopefully people out there are enjoying it for what is was intended for and have this video for the finer points. Thanks for your comment.
This has to be the best video I've seen so far on budding roses. Very clear.. will be embedding this on my website. Thanks for taking time to share your knowledege
After watching this video, i was able to graft roses with 100% success. i am also using air layering to get the stock to root(i obtained the stock from a plant i also air layered from a sucker). it's much faster for grafting at home , the stock roots meanwhile the bud shoots and grows. Now i can get any rose i want. i recently grafted 3 different roses from a rose bouquet. You are really the best! Thank you.
A fantastic video! Clear and informative, but even better is your willingness to explain those little details in your reply to comments so well. I went through dozens of rose grafting videos that were no where near as helpful before finally stumbling on yours! Thanks so much!
Wow, that was thorough! Excellent bits of information! Thank you so much. I will watch this again when I am ready to try. Thank you, thank you, thank you again.
Thank you very much for sharing this technique. It was nice and clear how you were budding these roses. I'm trying to bud a tiny leaf rose onto a standard rose to create a possible Bonsai.
Hi, I just looked through the comments and got repies to my previous question ---thanks for a fantastic video -- will be trying this really soon -- it is now late autumn in south africa .
Thank you so much for this, this is the most informative video I've seen on the subject! I really feel confident giving this a try now. I thank you so much for this! Thank you, thank you! THANK YOU!
Wait until it is cold and the plant has gone dorment, then take lots of cuttings about a foot long and find somewhere you can stick them in the ground. Keep them wet but not soaked. Some will live some will die, next winter dig them up and pot them. Or you could do the same but in pots full of washed sand or seed raising mix. Your best bet would be to try all three methods. Some roses are hard to stike as cuttings and others will grow like a weed. You could aslo graft onto an existing bush.
I know a lot of growers don't make much money as the price is pretty competitive. But the reason they can do it cheaply is because of the numbers they grow. If you grow a million roses and make 10 cents clear profit on each plant it isn't too bad, but if you have a season where you lose a lot of plants or get a bad take your profit margin gets smaller an smaller. Really just like any business, but fun none the less. Hope you enjoy playing around with your knife.
Hey thanks for the comment. I know how frustrating it gets when trying to find information. I remember when i was trying to learn to bud years ago. In the end just trial and error is the best way. I planned this video a lot more than the first one. Actually quite enjoyed doing it. The buds i did in the video are still alive!
Thank you so much for the new video on budding roses. It was full of information that I've never heard or read before. I also would like to apologize for my rude attitude in the last comments I made. Looking at the huge amount of roses waiting to be budded, I can appreciate the actual speed necessary to get the job done. You couldn't have known but your video was published on my birthday, Dec 20, so it turned out to be a gift for me. Again, my apologies for my childish behavior.
There is quite a few different varieties of rootstock used all over the world. Some countries use seed to grow stock from and others use cuttings of wild stock. Here we do it with cuttings as the seedling type doesn't work well. You could use a cutting from any strong growing climbing rose in your local area and would be ok, just don't want a varitey that sends out suckers. If you have Dr Huey it is a very good stock to learn on, strikes easy and is easy to bud with a high success rate.
This video is great, thanks for showing others/me how to bud plants. This is the best video i've seen on how to bud a rosebush. By the way I really like your accent.
Thank you once again i am going to put every thing into practice i did brought some propagating mix today i will let you know more about it.....I am from the Caribbean country and it is very sunny. I Try some in water this morning......
Thank you for replying i feel like i am getting some where.Well i normally do it any time in the year right now i am trying but when i check them the cuttings will look dark i also will use rooted boost, i do not no if the soil is the problem or what i am doing wrong,three months ago i did some but not one did not grow.
Mate, you are bloody brilliant! I've not seen this process explained so simply and clearly; it all made a lot of sense after I checked your vid out. Any tips on where to find rootstocks like Dr Huey or Fortuniana? I'm in Melbourne VIC.
Thanks for your comment. It will be easy to find rootstock, just go anywhere where there is lots of roses planted and it will be shooting up from the base on the odd plant here and there. Old neglected houses are a good place to look, usually the rose has long died and the rootstock is flourishing on its own. Can go to your local rose grower, if he is a decent sort might give you a bit. Only thing is you will be very hard stretched to find fortuniana in Victoria, should be able to find dr huey but multiflora is most common over there. Multiflora is the best to use, grows like a weed and has no thorns. It is near on useless here in W.A. because it hates the heat and really struggles to cope. Dr Huey is good, handles the heat, very easy to grow and bud and should last ten to twenty years. Fortuniana is hard to grow, hard to bud and just a bugger to get going but once going is amazing, grows really strong, will produce more flowers, is a bigger stronger bush and will last a very very long time. I have no idea how long but my guess would be hundreds of years. Once established it is completely drought tolerant never needing water to survive, as soon as it rains it will spring into flower. Not sure how it would handle extreme cold though compared to other rootstocks. Lots if fun playing around with it all anyway.
@@MrDudaro I'm not sure, it grows well on hot areas, colder wetter climates would have more suitable varieties but would be worth trying to see how it goes if you can find some.
rotaryhoes, Once I am sure that the bud eye has successfully attached to the root stock and is growing a bit, how long should I wait before I clip off the remainder of the part above it? Thank you:)
That's great . Thank you to share this detailed video. But I just cannot distinguish the cambium. Can it be seen ? Should I cut the cambium as well in T cut?
Any time i have done figs i have grown them from cuttings on their own roots, grow into big strong trees with plenty of fruit. Not sure if a rootstock exists for figs. Peaches have an assortment of rootstocks you can use depending on how big or small you want your tree. Golden queen peach is a good all round rootstock and so is elberta. But they are old, probably better stuff out there now but a bit out of my knowledge. Can't use rose stock as incompatable.
Yes you can bud all sorts of colours. You can bud any rose on to any rose plant, sometimes you will find they don't like each other much and will find it hard to get it to take but 99% of time not a problem. I have found yellows can be a bit touchy but you could have one rose bush with five colours on it. Only thing is one colour will eventually dominate if you let if grow more than the others. I once grafted a red on white on pink on yellow but the top colour got strong and others weak.
very informative video; thanks for posting Is it possible to graft this way with different colour buds?( buds from different rose plants) please reply.
Hello! Very good video. Congratulations! Two procedures then, one you do it at mid winter and the other step when? How much time passes (Stem) to apply the second step?, what mixture of soil you utilize? Thank you
You can but you might find the climbing rose is so strong it keeps throwing new shoots that will outgrow the patio rose. best to strike a cutting of the climber and then bud/graft onto it while still small.
Hi there! Excellent videos you have shared about the grafting. Can you please tell me more about how you prepare the rootstocks? I live in Victoria and have multiflora and dr Huey growing, I have tired to start them in damp newspaper in plastic bags and various other ways to get them to callus but have had mixed results... Do you literally just stick your stock cuttings in pots out in the field? What month do you do this? Any hormones or stimulants? Any sprinkler system? What percentage strike? Your videos are fascinating! Hope to hear from you, It's hard to find these trade secrets out! Cheers!
Thanks for your comment. I am surprised you are having trouble striking dr huey and multiflora. Fortuniana can be a bugger. Yes with dr huey and multiflora we just stick them in the pot outside. I don't do anything special to them, no hormone no tricks. Some things we do that i feel important is plant as soon as possible after cutting, within the day is best. Never let the stick dry out once cut. Until planted keep wet constantly. Select a basic potting mix, you don't want any fertilizer in it at all or it will just burn them. Seed raising mix would be best. Water it in after planting and then water three or four times a day until it makes roots. I have the sprinklers on a controller. You don't want to drench them but give them enough water to fully wet the stick and keep the potting mix wet without being soggy. Soggy is better than dry as once dry it is finished. Full sun is best. If you can help it don't pull the stick out checking for action, instead turn the pot over with your hand spread out to hold as much surface area of potting mix and the rose cutting sticking out between two fingers and carefully take the pot off. After six weeks you should have roots touching the bottom of the pot. Some take longer some are quicker. We have about a 99.9% take on good years and 95% on worse years, fortuniana is about 80% but done in cells, a further 10% loss planting them out and then another 15% loss on budding and from budding to mature bush probably lose another 5%. After that fortuniana is virtually un killable. We do all our cutting here in june/july. I have found if you wait until the leaves fall off but before the stock shoots that is the best time to cut. If the stock is shooting away the take is bad. In colder areas you could probably cut in august. I think that covers it mostly.
I've been trying to graft roses for the last couple years with no success. So its essential to take the wood out of the scion prior to grafting to the host? Also i've been using electrical tape to hold the bud in place... Is that ok to do?
Dr Huey rootstock cuttings outdoor seasons can you? Early in the evening spraying a spray three times a day how long time - is full sun spraying cutting it? Whether you need to stay blade, Rosa fortuniana also full sun spray footpath insert it? Also one day
This is a great video. Thank you for sharing your experience with all of us. I have to ask you something about. I dind`t know and I still don`t believe that stem you put in the pot with soil on an open whether can root. If it does - and we can see that from yours video, than I am asking myself why we in Europe spent money every year buying the rootstocks (propagated from seeds- usualy rosa canina and corymibifera cultivars). I must ask you which percent of stems gives a root, and do you think that new rose plant (final product) can survive winter frost of let say -20C. And one thing more - did you try to make a root from a long stem cuttings (1.5-2m) and cultivate a standard rose on it?
You have some good questions. There is many types of rootstock suited to different areas. Rootstock from seed is virus free so there is a great start! At the beginning of the video i show fortuniana rootstock. It is quite hard to propagate and we have to do it in trays under mist and get about 75% strike rate. Fortuniana flourishes in the hot dry conditions we have and will live for at least a hundred years that i know of, maybe forever! It doesn't mind -3 degrees we get here but as it never gets any colder i don't know what would happen from there. The rootstock you see in the pots is dr huey, it grows like a weed. I strikes very well and we get a near on 100% strike, buds easy and grows strong. It doesn't like extreme heat or dry conditions but still performs quite well. After twenty years it seems to start to slow down. Again the cold we experience is no worries for it but i have no idea how it would survive in extreme cold. The benefits of seed are no suckers as you bud onto the root, no virus. We have to grow hedges of rootstock, then it is a big job to cut into cuttings and each cutting has to have all but the top two buds removed. This takes a lot of hours to do when doing large numbers. Growing from seed you have to collect the seed and germinate it so most likely it would be of similar cost to how we do it. Doing standard roses is a completely different story, starting from seed and grafting a stem onto it and then budding onto that is a massive work load. Here we simply cut the stems to the length we want, strike them and graft onto that and have a standard rose ready for sale. I can't post s link here but search my channel for "commercial rose budding grafting" to see a video i did of our standard roses being budded by a professional.
I am moving to a house that has a high porch with white fence on it I love to put roses their, the house I am in now has a rose bush and another rose tree that grows long stock.. Anyway my question would be what is the best way to cut some and put it in a pot and then transfer it to the ground once it has thriving roots, how long would it take and when should I start? Also The house we are moving into has other plants by the porch regular bushes & flowers and I know the soil is good !
I thoroughly enjoyed this video! You explained everything in great detail. Thanks! Something i've always wondered... is it possible to bud a florist long stem rose onto a standard garden rosebush, like the knockout rose variety??? I would love to know the answer.
Thank you for your comment. As for your question, it has an interesting answer. Firstly you might find it difficult to get it to grow. The reason is when some producers cut the flowers they put them in water to keep fresh, in that water is a splash of glysophate (herbicide) to make sure no one can propagate the variety. I don't know how widespread that practice is anymore or what countries do it but it used to be common practice with new varieties to stop people pinching them and avoid paying royalties to the breeder. But i am pretty sure you wont encounter this problem. In the past i have budded some beautiful cut flower varieties onto garden roses but they always look yuck. The reason is in the hothouse diseases like blackspot and powdery mildew are not a problem as they can control the watering as to avoid favourable conditions for the fungal attacks. In the garden they suffer badly from fungas. The long stems have a lot to do with the hothouse conditions and being force fed, drawing the growth up in the warmth to reach for the light. But if you are lucky to jag a variety that has good disease resistance, nice long stems and grows nice in the garden there is one more problem. These roses are bred to look nice in bud and gradually opening. Unfortunately in the garden they start to bud and look good and then the flower blows open and the petals all fall off and they do not hold the same colours out in sunlight as in the hothouse. But having said all that it is so much fun to try anyway, i have and it was an interesting experiment. Interesting to note Kardinal is a wonderful red rose in the garden that was a hothouse rose originally. Give it a go and see what you get.
What country are you from, northern or southern hemisphere? Best times to do cuttings are winter and late summer. I don't use any root hormone. Buy some seed raising mix or propagating mix from local nursery, potting mix is not much good. Once you have your cutting keep the soil moist but the cutting itself must be kept wet or very humid. Full sun is ok but half shade better. If it dries out even once it will most likely die. If too wet in the soil will rot. I bit of practice will get you there.
Once its grafted to the root stock and you have a solid bud union do you replant it up to that bud union? It looked like you grafted the bud in pretty high up the cane
No, you keep a good distance from ground to graft to stop rot and the grafted rose forming its own roots. If you make rootstock even longer and bud on top it becomes a standard rose.
Thank you very much for this valuable information. My question is why do we use the buds and does the cutting give us the same flowers as the mother tree?
I don't have enough words to express how great this video is! It's been a while since anyone commented on here and I don't know whether I would get a response but 1) Do you usually do T-budding on fortuniana as well? 2) I heard reports that they use Urea or high N fertilizer on the rootstocks a week before grafting to get the sap flowing. Is this a tropical climate only thing or does this apply everywhere when temperatures are above 23*C ? 3) Can I root fortuniana (for personal use) without using misters? I live in the tropics and temperatures are usually above 23*C for most months of the year (on average). Would a bag over the cuttings keeping a humid atmosphere be enough?
Yes we t bud fortuniana, I've also chip budded with success. You need a good sap flow, urea is too hot, npk blue would be better and around 3 weeks before budding. Striking fortuniana is not easy, they do need misting in my experience but high humidity would be a good start. We take the cutting about 1 month before the fortuniana starts flowering.
HI thanks for the information. Sometimes I did bud grafting on roses,here in Malta. but the problem is that the grafting if it is ok it will grow the year after. here we do this grafting in May so I will have to wait for next May to see the growth. Can I do the grafting in an other month say April??
I find that as soon as the outer layer of bark on the rootstock lifts when cut the plant can be budded. But to be confident of it growing after winter you want to wait until the air temperature reaches 23 degrees celsius minimum. Then three weeks after budding you should be able to cut the top off the rootstock and the bud should shoot out and have all summer to grow. Usually it takes six weeks for the bud to grow and make a flower.
Hi there great video First time I'ám going to try this for the wife.As i understand it Can use any rose for rootstock? if you bud from a different rose that is the variety it will be?Can you combine 2 climbing rose to get 2 different colours? I am from Victoria nearly the end of winter is this the time to put in rootstock and bud in the springtime,the bark is not peeling back any good at the moment.Any help/advice would be appreciated.
You can use pretty much any rose as a rootstock but the best would be a strong growing climbing rose as you need a nice strong root system for best results. What ever rose you use to do the grafting is what the final rose will be, the rootstock has no say in what flower or colour you will get. You can bud/graft two colours of roses on one rootstock but in my experience one will always dominate and the other will die away. Yes definitely time to put in some cuttings to grow for rootstock, you wouldn't want to leave it any longer and it will be ready for budding/grafting in early summer all going well. The bark wont peel until you get some good sap flowing with nice lush growth on top.
This is very very interesting. I must ask a few things - I am interested how durable is this root from cuttings and whether it can evolve-spread and became strong like the root created from the seed, and whether yours root system can support a large standard rose bush on top - like some weeping form grafted on 200cm?
Yes these develop a very very strong root system. We have done 200cm standards and the tops became 400cm wide. The stems became about 10cm thick in diameter. The fortuniana rootstock roots go down in search of water many metres and will live hundreds of years happily and healthy. Dr huey is not so strong but still a very strong plant but wont live forever, maybe fifty years.
rotaryhoes Well, that's fantastic. Thank you for your reply. I would like to try that at home, and I have to please you for just one more comment - when rooting let say 150cm cuttings-stems of fortuniana , do you leave some leaves on them, and how long should I keep the humidity and what percentage of humidity in the greenhouse? Sorry if I ask too much :)
Jesica Miles When rooting cuttings this long I have found it best to leave some bud eyes every 30cm all the way up and cut the rest out. Make sure you leave the top four to create a head. Be sure to take all the leaves off as they just pull moisture out of the cutting. We do fortuniana cuttings late winter before the stock starts to shoot new growth. We strike them outside in the full sun but mist them five times a day minimum. The media must be kept wet without being waterlogged. To prevent waterlogging use 40% peat and 60% course perlite as a mix. Plant the cutting three inches deep into this mix in a small pot. I know the media will look chunky and like it wont be any good but trust me it works really well. I have also had good luck with seed raising mix that has no fertilizer in it. Also at the bottom of the cutting make a cut 3cm long down to the bottom of the stick about 2mm deep, you can do two cuts, one on opposite sides of the stick and this is where your roots will develop from. You can decrease the amount of times a day you water them when you see roots come out the bottom of the pots which will take from 6 weeks to 12 weeks generally. Make sure there is lots of roots before trying to plant into a bigger pot or they can break off and you might lose the cutting. We wait four months from planting cuttings to transplanting. I hope this helps.
+Sucheatta Ros The best time to bud a rose bush is when the temperature is above 25 degrees Celsius during the day. Also you want the stock plant you will be budding onto to have nice new growth showing the sap is flowing well. If you have those conditions it is then important to make sure the bark is lifting and peeling easily to slip the bud in. If the bark is not peeling easy and is tearing then the sap is not flowing enough and you will need to wait a bit longer.
+rotaryhoes Dear Sir, Thank you so much for your responded and appreciate that. I think it's a bit late for me to do it now because the temperature here (I live in South east of France) is 20 degrees Celsius during the day and sometime lower than 20 degrees. May be I have to wait until spring next year. Thanks once again for your good advices sir.
So shallow cuts works both rootstock and scion also for lemon or other fruit trees? Thicker cuts with woody part not really?do you make chip budding?thanks
G'day, no i am not from treloar, they are in Victoria, i am from the other side of the country in Western Australia. I think treloar are Australia's biggest rose growers. I am not a very big grower but we grow everything in pots. Main reason is we grow most roses on fortuniana and it doesn't strike or graft well in the ground. What is it like growing roses in the Netherlands, the cold must be a problem for you?
Sorry i haven't had a chance to reply. I haven't had experience with tepmeratures that cold. I would think you would need to do your cuttings in trays under cover and plant out in warmer weather. Best way to find out would be to try some outside and some under some clear plastic or even in a shed, just keep them wet. Need to wet whole stick with mist about 5 times a day and don't want propagation mix too wet or bottom will rot. In winter our temperature is from -3 to 15 degrees so much warmer.
